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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/13/2021 in all areas
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Hi Gents. Still chugging along in veg, I removed alot of growth tips in an an effort to try get the stems longer. This has worked to an extent as I have 8 main colas now, with 2 two in front being the ones that need to catchup to the rest. She gets fed twice a week, 0.7ec 6.4 Ph. Very green, the leaves are like leather, There are roots shooting out the bottom of the pot and I wasn't planning to repot, but think I should because my flower tent is only going to be available in a months time? I have a 40l fabric pot ready to go, she is in a 15 atm. Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk5 points
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5 points
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Hmm, yes and no. I really feel it depends on what you are using, if one is using plain coco (with or without perlite) and using some good nutes such as GHE, simply PHing your feed correctly and following the feeding chart on the bottle gets you pretty much where you need to be without issues and consistency will be phenomenal. Very simple and easy. Although if you try do your own thing and are not 100% sure about what you are doing, it can be dangerous and you can quickly run into issues - but the issues can generally be fixed quickly too. When using soil, there are soo many variables. Whatever the compost is being made of will change the composition of the nutes in the soil and slight tweaks to the quality of the amendments and other ingredients being added to the soil mix will change it. Consistency is not always there, the bigger soil brands are typically a bit better with their consistency ("cannabis soil"). Then the differences between soil brands is huuuuge and will cause all sorts of issues if one purchases an inferior soil. However with a good soil, there is often more room for error as underfeeding can be supplemented by the nutes in the soil and they often add amendments to help buffer the soil (not perfect) and so forth. I think for me, the inconsistency and never quite knowing with soil is what leads me to go for coco, along with the quicker growth and coco being a cheaper medium (store bought soil vs store bought coco). If something is consistent, even if it is not perfect (not saying this is the case), you at least know and can work around it and plan for it. Inconsistencies introduce a whole new ball game into play and the it becomes are bigger challenge and are often a lot more difficult to pin point and remedy. So I guess to sum it up. There are pros and cons to both. Coco can offer better consistency than soil, can be super easy to grow in although when experimenting or not following what works you can run into issues quickly. I like to think of Coco as a blank canvas. Soil on the other hand, consistency can be pretty good too and offers a buffer of sorts but if shit hits the fan, it can often be more difficult to pin point the cause of the issue and remedy it. Perhaps more of a bicycle with training wheels, when the wheels fall off it can be a bit chaotic. Ultimately, you need to know what you are doing and what you are working with. Experience will ensure one can pick up on issues quickly as well as pin point them and remedy them.4 points
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Main issue I have if clones taken at harvest is keeping the plants alive long enough to reveg , they will naturally die before reveg happens . I am not saying it can't be done but it's a long process. That's why the lower underdeveloped buds are the ones left for reveg as they will be a few weeks behind I take my clones on day 14 of flower , no later and no earlier . Then by the time the room has finished flowering the clones have revegged and ready to go into the veg room and the veg room is ready to go into the flower room and the cycle continues3 points
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Mycoroot test. with mycorootno mycoroot one on the left is with mycoroot No difference between the two, in terms of health, size and vigour. I am starting a new test with plant matters v mycoroot v control to see if I can see any difference in seed germination.3 points
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I found it out by keeping written diaries and reveging over 2000+ plants . my preferred method of growing is monster cropping which involves letting the plants go info flower before taking clones and reveging the clones3 points
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Just a little bit of info. For every day a plant is in 12/12 flower mode you need 4 days for reveg , so 1 week flower would be a 4 week reveg (roughly) you can boost nitrogen to speed it up a little3 points
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Day 43 since I flipped to 12/12, beginning of week 7. According to the breeders, GZ has 8-9 week flowering time, and Lemon Cheese 9-11 weeks. The GZ will get water only now till harvest, and the LC is on its last week of feed (no major nutrients, just molasses and activera) I plan to flush the GZ with 3-5 litres every few days, starting this week3 points
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now we're talking!!! throw a qb on the table and you can call mr.surfactant man veg tent needs an upgrade!3 points
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I found this little one among the plants.. Shame.. I think he is going to starve as I have not seen anny insects.. But it is nice to know he is arround..3 points
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7 days into flower , they enjoying this grow space much more than the veg space . Very cold the last week in WC and they just received plain rainwater. Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk3 points
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Once again very strain dependent, flower time I found is generally shorter and stretch is minimal with nice dense fat nugs. For me the perfect size nugs are between 1-3g anything more and they just not as good . This is where monster cropping comes in , very little training needed so many hours of labour saved and many bud sites which in turn makes the buds smaller and not just a few fat colas.2 points
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I am not very good at getting my head explained in text and I appreciate and welcome the conversation and corrections where I think I am saying one thing but people read it as something else . I love stimulating conversations I can see how how the library comment could be taken badly , in my head I was just trying to put across the importance of keeping records2 points
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Sorry bud don't mean to come across defensive at all , I apologize if it came across like that . You are quite right as there are tons of variables , I ment it to be a guideline and an average.2 points
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You seem defensive, and hope not, I wasnt knocking, and find that invaluable and paper "gold". I agree with 24h My observations are different though with re veg, and have got far shorter times, but as you say yourself, there are so many variables, strains and so on. But to say the one size fits all, you first gave, is hard to finalize.2 points
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It all depends on genetic age of the strain . I have a original cheese cut that was brought into south africa in 1994 , this strain will not reveg under 18/6 as with many of my stains that are very old genetically. For best reveg results I always go 24 hours light , 18/6 will slow down reveg or as I say on old genetics it won't even reveg . I have strain that you can put outdoors in the middle of summer and they will flower even. As for my library I have decades of journals , I fill out a page every day on my observations of rhe day and my plans and goals . They one of my most important tools2 points
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@Green Leaf Organics @The Grass Baas @The_StonedTrooper Thanks for all the advice guys, I wouldn't have thought much about saturating the complete media had this bit of insight crossed not crossed my path. I'll report back on my next watering2 points
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Holy shit. Not to joke....yesterday I checked and he was on like 60k and when I checked as it was announced he was on like 5k. Crazy good fight for his publicity even though I still think it was an early stoppage, he was getting badly out performed.2 points
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You need to saturate the entire medium ,roots won't like spreading to dry soil and dry soil micro life will almost completely stop producing nutrients for your plant. It's also good to bare in mind that soil can become hydrophobic if let to dry out to much. This means that when you water you may get runoff but are you actually not saturating the medium and water is just running through your soil. What you need to do wet the medium across the entire pot not just around the root ball , only apply enough water to wet the entire top. Then wait 10 min and apply the same amount of water again , wait 5 minutes and you should get runoff . If at this stage you not getting runoff repeat and take not how much water your medium can optimly hold. If you find your plant then wilts its a sign of an underdeveloped root system and the plant is not utilizing the entire pot . The wilting is caused by the water cutting off oxygen supply . In Organics your entire medium needs to stay damp for soil health , dry medium is a dead medium I have gone weeks between watering in bigger pots and small plants. This is why the correct ratio of perlite is also required in your soil because perlite is a key to prevent overwatering. This is also why I hate vermiculite as its the number one cause of beginners killing plants with overwatering2 points
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Hi everyone. This is my first 'real' grow. My pilot grow was bag seed and under only 60W for most of veg. Strains: Green House Seeds - Franco's Lemon Cheese. Barneys Farm - Gorilla Zkittlez Setup: 2 x 15 litre pots in a 1m x 0.5m cupboard conversion with a 240W QB from @Light It Up. I have the dimmer set to 120-180W through veg and then 240W during flower. Soil: Freedom Farm, green bag. Amended with Dirty Hands elemental blend and some extra goodies, kelp meal, insect frass, mycoroot and some earthworms from the garden. Mulched with alfalfa straw/hay. Nutrients: During veg I use Kelpak (first few weeks only), Biobizz Biogro (half-strength), Biobizz Activera and calmag(alternate weekly with Biodyne). During flower, I include Freedom Farm's Fire Juice, replace Biogro with molasses and give calmag more regularly. pH adjusted to 6-6.5 (shout out to @The_StonedTrooper for the pH pen!) Currently on day 32 of flower. I topped the zkittlez once and lemon cheese twice. I was hoping to fill out the screen but the zkittlez is much smaller. It didn't respond as well to supercropping and took longer to recover from the transplant. Also, I think I topped it a bit early and could've used another week in veg. Could be the strain, could be the seed, could be me. Can't complain too much though because those flowers smell and look amazing :) Flower day 12: day 26: day 31:1 point
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I myself couldn't believe it too Truly cant wait and it's one of the three out of 6, doing the best. So I am very happy, and especially, because someone, that I look up to, has recommended it to me too Added, still have a mother?1 point
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I read it out of context, and my apologies for that, that's why I asked and didnt want to give the wrong impression.1 point
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2000+ is plenty, you must have a library of logs. You made this observation on 18/6 I'd guess and not on 24h straight, and if running on 24h would you still say the same amount of time then?1 point
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I'm feeding these young ones from the bottom now. It's just easier for me to put the water straight into the trays and let the plants suck it up slowly. The normal tap water rows were the two on the left. The centre row got tap water + kelp and aminomix. The 2 rows on the right were treated with de-chlorinated water.The centre row grew bigger with the additional ferts but the 2 sides are almost identical. The same root development and number of side branches. The chlorine fed plants are just as green as the others. They all stayed in the small pots for the trial, maybe a week longer than was needed but I wanted to keep everything equal. All the rows got a little bit of tip burn and I gave one spray of Epsom salts before I transplanted them.1 point
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These have had a nice growth spurt since they were put under 50 W of LED. Touch wood I haven't seen any more spider mites, but I will keep on spraying before flowering. I haven't done any sprays since I let the persimilis loose. Rosetta Stone master kush garlic sorbet Spumoni I've cloned the garlic and put her into a 25 litre pot now. She has got some vigour and is going to need a cane for support soon.1 point
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An unreal show about nutrients from a formulation chemist. Nick Morin from Canna Cribs sits down with George Murray of Ventana Plant Science to discuss some of the important chemistry that goes into formulating a nutrient line. Whats even more interesting, at the end of the show they discuss a step by step guide to formulate your own nutrition program.1 point
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Pretty much a week of flower. Yeah, I've pulled up a chair for the long haul. Bought a ph test kit and my watering ph is correct. Soil is drying out. I think everything is stable so I am counting this as day 1 of veg. Lets see. Sent from my LM-X210(G) using Tapatalk1 point
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Hey dudes. Sorry to jump in abit late but this is great info. I once also had major issues with over watering and underwatering. Never knew what to do. The one thing I realised is that I now prefer to increase my pot sizes as my plants grow. Makes it so much easier to water. For e.g.. if I water a brand new clone that has developed roots and just been transplanted into a pot, I make sure to saturate the entire pot. Just like @Green Leaf Organics mentioned about waiting a few minutes between watering, as it allows all the water to disperse through the medium, then your runoff will be from no more space for absorption rather than being hydrophobic. So usually just after a transplant the young plants take about 5-7 days to get the medium dry enough for the next watering. About 3 to 4 weeks after the transplant they usually start to get drier in about 1-2 days between watering. Then I know the plants are getting big enough to be transplanted and then I start again by saturation and waiting a couple days etc etc. Either Way, so far it's looking really good. Keep up the good work1 point
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Hi bud looking good . One slight thing I have noticed in your soil pot is that you never seem so saturate the medium . I may be wrong about this but it always seems like you just watering around the base of the plant . By doing this you are limiting root growth . You need to saturate the entire pot and then let the medium cycle through a wet dry cycle. As I said I may be wrong and I an just going off the pics shared . If you refine your watering in the soil you will have a largely increased yield as the tlroot ball will be much bigger . Just my 2 cents1 point
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Very well said man. And your analysis of the current socio-political dynamic is spot on. Hope all our members in those areas are safe.1 point
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A few last pics , huge rains coming Monday night so the plants coming down Monday before it starts1 point
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Week 9 - Day61 (07/07/2021) HORTIMIX-DWC Ph was already at 6.5 this morning Added ph down (10 drops) New PH at 5.9 and EC at 1.1 Other than a couple of spots on the leaves that might have been there from the last reservoir, Leaves already starting to "pray" a bit and no signs on nute burn, so right now shes looking happy. Will continue to monitor closely.1 point
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Bro, thank you for the shout out, your plants are looking beautiful and happy, and that makes me happy. Bless up brother1 point
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Week 5 Update / Veg Week 4 It has been quite a busy week and I now wish for those 16 days I missed in the beginning. I've been trying to get as much done by the end of this week to allow the girls to just chill and recover the last week before the flip. I've had a few challenges along the way but luckily I've come out the other side (mostly) unscathed. My goal was to get the training done this week to allow them to grow out during veg week 5 and pushing them that hard I managed to break not just 1 but 4 cola stems where they meet the main stem , this has never happened to me on this scale before. After some intensive surgery (duct tape and support) and some time in the ICU (new QB light) they have all luckily managed to heal and started pushing out new growth (phew). I must admit, they were a lot easier to break that I'm used to. I can't say for sure, but I think the light that I had on them the last 2 weeks made for weaker branch growth, they looked a little more... transparent and watery? Since putting the under the 240W QB at 70% power they have become stronger and growth (and recovery) has been undeniably better and greener and just more natural looking. While that ordeal was going on, in camp Organic things were a lot more chill. This lady is amazing, I love the way she grows and I love her structure. I wanted to grow her out naturally but I also wanted to keep a copy of her, so in the end I topped her . I think it's for the best anyway, it would be a bit too uneven on the canopy to grow a xmas tree on one side of the tent A picture is worth a thousand words right? So..: T1 (Alyssa): Finished off her training (note the 2 splits), like a dumbass I only noticed the top one when I got home from work that day: Noticed this weird alternate node branching, almost like an extra thumb : She filled out and recovered nicely: View of her structure: T2 (Amy) Training session underway (can't see in this pic but 2 stems also split during training): As she looks now: Her internals: T3 - Janis (Ms Organic) Topping complete: As she looks now (from the top): ...and giving her best pose from the side: Besides the stars of the show, my tent environment also got a bit of an overhaul. I was inspired by @420SA's ventilation setup. It was a why-didn't-I-think-of-that moment when I saw it. I basically treated my 2 tents as... well.. 2 tents whereas 420sa's setup basically linked the 2 tents and treated the ventilation as 1 tent. Inlet in the one and exhaust in the other and link the 2 tents with ducting... GENIUS! With this method I now have a spare Ø100mm fan. So here is my version: Inlet in the veg tent, decide to let the air come in through a carbon filter for extra filtering of nasties: Exhaust in tent 2: Just as a side note I'd like to comment on the bug barriers that you can get from the grow stores. I firmly believe that these guys have kept out some serious nasties from my grow and if you're letting air come in from the outside, these things are a must. Check this out from 14 weeks of use, I'll be replacing these more often from now on: A shot of the new one compared to the used one: Sorry for the long winded report.. enjoy your Sunday guys1 point
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