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Naughty.Psychonaut last won the day on December 29 2023

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Grower Info

  • Preferred growing medium or system
  • Preferred Lighting
  • Grow Room Setup
  • Preferred Nutrients
    Organic Bottled
  • Indoor or Outdoor
    Indoors and Outdoors
  • Preferred Medicating Methods
    Bong all day long.

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  1. Hi @RichardCPT hope you are well, just wana help you here, the males don't make seeds they only make pollen. They don't really have the potential of making seeds, only the females do once they have been pollenated by the pollen from the males. the male pollen sack looks like a ball before they open, but there's no seed. the only reason a female plant would make seeds is if it was pollenated by a male or turned hermie through bad genetics or stress and pollenated itself. the only reason to remove males or hermies is to avoid seeds, this is how we get seedless weed indoors. outdoors it's harder cause of stray pollen being able to travel in the wind.
  2. I am sure you know about André De Ruyters book "Truth to Power"? Ex CEO of Eskom.... good read for anyone in SA. think that can make things very clear. you can say factories and businesses are down right now, but they wheren't during the rugby world cup? and many other times...... plus majority of corporate owned businesses don't shut down whole factories just to get through a day of christmas, they'll have 1 guy on stand by or the factory just pushes through. the whole world still works up to the 23rd and continues on the 27th only to take off on the 1st again for 1 day. how does that equal to a whole month without loadshedding? someone inside eskom can spin that shit and I'll smell rotten fish from miles away. Loadshedding started in 2007 as a temporary thing to give a gap in order to "fix the problem".... It's 2024 in 6 days, that gives us 16 - 17 years of loadshedding..... it hasn't been constant/consistent for all 17 years, we've had worse times and times with no loadshedding all through out. it's not a new thing to go through fluctuations. If it hasn't been clear as day, we're collectively too affraid to adress the problem directly, because the problem has our country in the palms of their hands and can do whatever they want right now. the problem is too big to fix, it's integrated into our society. The actual problems has been solved, but a new problem has emerged - management. New management doesn't have any grip on what they're doing, incompetence is running the power grid, problems of the previous mismanagement still exists, because of the current inconpetence not being able to focus on the the problem which is in itself the incompetence of the management. So they're literally just playing with the buttons. SA is in deeeeeeeeeep financial shit, so wherever our government can funnel money they will, trying to make it seem like they're working on the problem, but in reality they steal the money and loadshedding presists. It's just an easy gimmick for the fools running the show. They don't give a single shit about loadshedding, cause they're not affected by it. That's how it's going to be for as long as we accept the "ancestral cultural richness" of the indiginous people that refuses any form constructive criticism.
  3. Hi brother, that spring water, orgasoilux and microbe mix you got going is good as gold!! those ph up and ph down stuff can upset a organic system. microbes are what keeps your organic system performing well, the ph up and down stuff will destroy microbes. the spring water is loaded with beneficial microbes so just keep at it with the spring water. orgasoilux works nice for plants that's a bit bigger, can sometimes be a little hot for younger plants.
  4. @king kong If I am understanding you, you wana be able to tell before they go into flower. Only way to do that is lab testing. otherwise you gotta wait till the plant expresses it physically so you can just tell like in the photos Bos showed, will be easy to tell them apart. trick is to get them before the male flowers open and pollenate your females. there is about a 1 to 2 week window, depending on genetics and conditions from when a male flower is clearly visible till it opens and releases pollen. so you gotta make sure you get them in the first few days of forming.
  5. @Sbuwie Hi bud hope you well, many things can cause leaves to curl, especially in seedling stage when the plant is still very sensitive. in the first two pics the tips look necrotic, that's a later stage of curl or whatever the problem is. usually stuff like a root zone problem or EC/pH related, but it could also be environment related. you gotta give us a bit more info. what has the temps and humidity been like? I see there's a cut off bottle for a make shift humidity dome? have you been keeping it over the plant? this could've caused temperature and humidity spikes that the plant didn't like. just giving water should be fine at this stage, but what medium are you in? looks like soil? maybe it's just a little too hot for the seedlings. meaning a little bit too nutrient rich, this happens a lot with seedlings in fresh soil. what soil is it? did you add anything to it? the more info you give us the more accurate the answer can be.
  6. I keep a bucket 1/3d fill with salt water, snails get dumped in and I clean and refill every week or two. after a while it's like they get the message or they start talking amongst eachother but yeah got minimal snail damage over here this year
  7. Hey bud do you own a EC/PPM pen or know of someone that does? When flushing your focus is the EC/PPM. so having a way to monitor and take readings on that will give you clear guidance instead of having to do the guessing game. You fill a bucket out the tap, read the EC, write it down. (should be low, below 1.0, if not don't use, get 5L bottled waters) Now use that water and slooooooooooowly get the pot to field capacity (this will ensure no dry pockets, so your EC reading will be true and more accurate) once you get first few drops of run off you can give a nice drench to get a good amount up to 500ml running out the bottom. Read the EC and see if you still need to flush or not. With living soil a mature plant can handle around 7.0EC and seedlings around 1.0 EC, you play between that. Synthetic growers never really need to go over 4.5 to 5.0EC. The flush may have resulted in a too low EC medium I grow in 30L pots, have had runs in the past toasting my plants to a crisp then doing a full 180 right by the grave. EC read out was 9.9 (anything higher my probe can't even read) but I only flush with like 5 to 10L of water then I'm back at 0.0EC then I have to rebuild the soil with Jamies Elemental blend, bat guano, gypsum and Diatomaceous Earth. Nute lockout usually happens cause of salt build up, that can happen even in the earth, not only salty synthetic hydro growers. organic living soils are not free of the salt build up threat. It happens as a result of pockets of nutes, which is something completely natural. the rhizosphere you have a whole micro-universe, if one strand of root finds its way into a pocket of nutes that's too much for it to uptake the root will burn. This will show as early onset signs of nute burn on the leaves, but what happens in the rootzone is the pocket of nutes never gets uptaken cz the roots around that area is now damaged. Now the nute compounds find eachother, same way if you put too much salt in water and let it sit, the salt will "find itself" and recrystallize. This happens on such micro scale you wouldn't be able to see physical crystals with your naked eye, but they're there, these chain of events is what we call "nute lock out" cause the roots got too much of a certain compound and the result is locking out that compound completely, majority of the time you can also see the plant stops uptaking any nutes for that matter or even sometimes you get like N lock out but the plant indicates a Ca shortage, cause it's not always the compound that causes the lock that'll be the one locked out, if that makes any sense? It can also show as nutrient deficiency at later stages. You keep feeding and it seems to not do anything. It's like ph zones, if you out of the right zone the plant only uptakes certain nutes and doesn't uptake others. so you gotta find that fine line balance. Anyway, hope any of this helped at least a little.
  8. Nice selections brother gona stink up the whole town come flower time!
  9. @N3wtonic Welcome! Never overthink anything no such thing as wrong questions. That plant must be over a month old now, hows things going?
  10. only a pleasure bro, no stress, that light will still get a plant growing, it's actually perfect for seedlings or vegging one plant in a small tent where you have the tent walls the light can be reflected off of. In a big tent or open room that light will fall off to the sides, in a small tent you could fill the space and grow 1 nice sized plant. I just wouldn't use that light for flowering, you could, but you probably wont get the best expression out of the plant since the light wont put out sufficient ppfd / par needed for optimal flower production.
  11. @Gugu Hey bud, hope all is well on your side. Everyone probably feels like they on a tight budget, we all always wana make more than we currently do, plus it's not always about who has the. best light or the most light, it's more about how you use it. not for a second would I want anyone to think I "have it all figured out" cause I don't, but something personal I've learnt that's been a big change in my whole outlook on working with money and letting your money work for you is - The reason people with a bit of extra money buy the more expensive stuff is not cause they "stupid rich" or just spend it cause they have it. There's a certain point at which the scales tip into the "stupid rich" part aswell, no doubt about that, but majority of the time people avoid the very cheapest options cause of the stigma around shopping cheap will have you spending more in the end.... it's bad investments to buy cheap stuff. a person with a bit of money wouldn't buy cheap stuff, cause it's almost always all a loss, where as if you buy something proper and it's a good investment you can use that and turn it around to work for you and make your money back at least or even if the investment is really good it can make more money from it. if you think about it it's more important for a person on a really tight budget to skip over the cheaper options, if that makes any sense. I've got a 300w blurple LED in a box. got it with my first tent as a combo, can't get someone to buy the light off me, also don't really wana sell it to someone with all the new tech out there. now I just keep it as backup or suplemental light. it's marketed at 300w, tested it and it pulls 240w, but it's got fans on a hestsink and what not so I'd say only around 200w goes to the diodes. The concept has really shifted now, with those old school HIDs you needed a cool tube or hood with inline fan to cool the whole light down. Then LEDs came along with the first tech being shitty. QB LEDs came and went. The better part of the first LEDs had everything "built in" to one body, so it was plug and play. to ensure better output and longer lifespan of your light you would have the diodes mounted directly on a heatsink with fans blowing on the heatsink to keep everything running cool. Now with the newest tech the diodes are spread out as far as possible so it never even heats up. This also allows for the light coverage to be basically optimal if you in a tent you can have a whole canopy of lights and you can have the light very very close the plants with minimal to no light stress and this also allows for optimal penetration into the plant canopy. The older bigger QBs that ran kak hot also obstructed air flow, you couldn't get the plant close to it cause it's so hot, cause all the light is focussed on one panel in one spot, so you have to raise it far in order to let it spread and cool down to get better coverage then you loose penetration, where the bar style lights allow for free airflow and the airflow also allows the bars to be cooled down passively and everything is better even if you ran with cheaper diodes, but now all that's left is to look at the quality of the diodes. Luckily a team called Horticulture Lighting Group been working on this for years and teamed up with Samsung to bring us some of the very best plant growing diodes on the market for now. So we gotta think about this, cause growing plants is all environment based, it's not about who has the best light or who has the most light. It's how you use it, like they say Now I got a DIY 300w LED bar light with a HLG driver and Samsung strips, it can put out 300w but I run her at 280 most of the time just for that extra few years addes at the end when she gets old. no electronic will ever be made that'll last forever, but we can try! If you look around on the internet for a branded LED with the same specs they'll go for up to 8-10k, I got my stuff from the source with some extras, slapped it together myself for 4k .
  12. lol why do you say that? the discrepancy with organics being slower is because people have lost touch with organics and struggle to get it right. when you talk to a organic guru you'll see it moves extremely fast, just as fast as hydro and some cases faster. 99.99% of newer growers who do "organics" just use normal soil and biobizz then call it organic, but their plants are stunted literally from day one all the way through. when a plant is moving slow but looks 100% healthy - it's stunted - and that's why people think organics is slower. I've outgrown synthetic/hydo growers a numbers of times with my own living soil. Takes a couple years to get there, but once you there you drastically scale down visiting the grow stores and nurseries all together. but we can't compare or view synthetics and organics in the same light at all, because worm poo and piss is sustainable, I source it right in in my back yard, no need to break shit down to make my nutes, no need for manufacturing factories and all the pollution that goes along with bringing a bottle of nutes to the shelf, no need for plastics all that shit and then in the end the use of synthetics is also harmfull in so many ways long before you consume it. so it's just two completely different things in the end.
  13. Ahh yeah that's not too earlyHahah I get you, but you would be surprised. It's actually the other way around. In the short term you are "feeding" the plants with the leftover synthetic nutrients, so you may see them looking greener for a couple days after giving the feed, but in the long run you are compromising and destroying the life in your soil micro biome. not sure how much you care about it, but it's basically a global epidemic and people choose to be blissfully unaware even if all information was presented. we're at a point where we can no longer sustainably use synthetic fertilizers, that documentary explains it nicely to keep them smaller you gotta reduce feed, play between quater to half strength for feeding they will slow down
  14. The GSC was one of the first of the cookies stuff, nice sweet terps. I haven't grown the blueberry muffin so don't know much about it, I'm sure it's awesome
  15. Woah hahah that is high, how big where the plants when you started the 450ppm twice a day? Did you go for such a stretch? Just a note, you know bout the reason why people don't use synthetic nutrients in living soil - cause it kills the microbes - so just keep that in mind when you pouring the runoff in your garden. it will destroy the micro biome of any living soil, especially in a pot where soil is little. A good documentary for any kinda grower to watch - it's on Netflix too, roll a fatty, sit back and treat yourself, it's a goood one
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