Naughty.Psychonaut

my 10cm inline fan, smallest of the extractor fans, got a pot on it I use it in my veg tent, can slow her down for higher RH if needed during summer. It never gets shut off completely.

aaaah shit sorry, silly me I never considered where you at, but yeah that makes a lot more sense to keep the cash for genetics, I'm with you on that one!

I recharge and topdress with one single product - Elemental blend. recharge post harvest, 100g topdress when needed. clean water from begin till end, one product, one move.

that's what they should be saying instead of "won't burn your plants" muuuuuuch better marketing tactic if you ask me, but if you tell your customers to not use much of your product it takes longer for them to get back in store to buy some more. which I find is kak dom, cause if I use a product and it fucks up my plants cause of advice given on the bag, I am not using that product anymore. a little goes a long way, damn man if I heard that back when I started out I would've saved myself so much time and resources.

this key is golden brother, have made biiig mistakes myself that way this comes down to that thing I mentioned long ago, there's big word of mouth in the organic growing comunity of "it's organic, you don't have to worry about it burning your plants" which is the biggest load of bull I have ever heard. the worst marketing tactic ever. I almost got turned off organics thinking I would never figure it out and everyone makes it out to be so easy... If you can say "it wont burn your plants" as a marketing tactic without having to say how much you should give and not exceed that amount, does that not also go for synthetic nutrients aswell? or well, with all nutrients for that matter.... look at this, I was given some Volcanic Rock Dust this week, first thing I noticed.... that last point, "wont burn your plants".... got me reeeeaaal excited if you know what I mean, so excited I almost tossed the bag in the bin, but convinced myself I could probably make the best of it. I do gardening other than cannabis growing so more fertilisers always welcome. Just below "won't burn your plants" is the application rates and some people will argue that obviously you have to stick to the amounts provided, but that's just my point exactly, if you can say "it won't burn your plants" - ONLY IF YOU USE THE PRODUCT AS ADVISED - then the same goes for synthetics.

that's the first cool thing about the elemental blend, we know what's in it. would be cool if you could use just the talborne by itself, but there's a reason why we can't. working in the commercial nurseries between 2012 and 2016 we pushed a whole lot of talborne onto anyone, looooong before the big cannabis wave came over. basically, talborne is generic and not formulated for cannabis specifically, though it works well, it's made for commercial use. for Talborne as a company who wants their products to be used by commercial growers they cannot focus on cannabis specifically, they need to cover a broad spectrum of crops so they focus mainly on the macronutrients, with the addition of micronutrients and trace elements that naturally comes with some of the organic compounds they use. as they say they're not a compost, but rather concentrated organic compounds. elemental blend is formulated for cannabis specifically and using one product is way less of a headache than having to guess between 5 different things. ✌

Organic is the waaaayy your plants seem to be enjoying what you do for them! did you amend a super soil by building it or did you buy super soil and further amended it? super soils usually can be used just like that, out the bag, clean water till harvest. are you aiming for most cost effective or you just looking for a cheap way? you didn't give us any prices? it cost me a total of R180 to reammend 100L of soil for a whole grow and I only give clean water from begin till harvest, with the exception of 1 or 2 biobloom feeds during flower. if needed. the R180 goes to a bag of elemental blend, 10L of this stuff will recharge 100L of soil. You can plant in a craft soil, give clean water till they start asking for nutes then just topdress with 100g of the elemental blend and repeat everytime it's needed. no need to guess what's needed or more of one and less of the other, much less confusion when you just scoop 100g of one thing one time and there you go. those 5 componenets you mentioned there covers a broad spectrum for sure, but it's far from everything. here is a list of ingredients in the elemental blend. quite a few more things and I bet it's cheaper and waaaaayy easier to use

Flowering a couple smaller ladies under the sun Zweet Inzanity, front right corner, just starting, will have to finish her inside when I have space, don't think there's enough time to finish her outside. Last of the Deluxe Sugarcane mother, far back, kept a clone. she's also only starting out, will see how things go. Last of the Blueberry Hashplant, short fatty in front, didn't keep a clone, she's getting dropped. Forbidos, front left, this is the first of her flowers for me, got a big plant I took clones off, clones will be run indoors in the near future. She's a stinker. solid buds with nice colours.

cool, shops around you selling seeds or clones? I would suggest a clone with good rep from a grower with good rep. seed packs are always a gamble cause you don't know the pheno you getting till you have grown it out, yet they're easier to come by. the reason I would suggest a clone is because you wana test your light, right? so going with a clone which you already know what the weed should look like post harvest and having something to cross-reference the end result to will give you more accurate indication if your light is doing what it should be doing or not. if you grow seeds you never really know if you just got an airy pheno or a good pheno. so if it comes out airy you couldn't blame the light. the buds you show in the photo there looks like they could've gone a lot longer or they needed a lot more light, but they don't look fully formed at all.

you can intercept your power line of your inline fans with a potentiometer + capacitor resistor... simple matter of knowing the output of the fan running into an electronics shop and asking for a potentiometer + capacitor resistor that can handle that load and dim it. potentiometer is just the fancy name for a dimmer. then you can control your fan speed with the turn of a knob.

@wingwing how's it going bud! I am loaded with questions, it's good to have a plan before renting the bulldozer. It's good to kinda just "wingwing-it" (see what I did there ) and in a lot of cases you don't have a choice but to wing it... ...but like the thing with the light, that's something you need to know, I would suggest LED then working around that later on, easy to pop in a heater and have it on a sonoff switch so it'll only come on when needed. but if you already have HID or something that gives off it's own heat you wouldn't need a heater... in which case I would still suggest to get rid of the HID and make the jump to LED. reason for that is, it's easy to heat up a room when needed, but trust me you gona be pissing tears of frustration during summer to cool the HID down. a lot of HID owners I know can't even grow during summer..... sooo, LED it is. When I saw what you busy with, first thing that popped into my head, cause you not using a tent, but rather building a solid room, I see you got extraction sorted, I don't see anything regarding intake? You gona seal the room? Tents usually have passive intakes near the bottom, but if you have a sealed room you'll be suffocating plants if you suck all the air out without letting fresh air in. with sealed rooms active intake is really the only option. so you'll need another inline fan. and need to make a hole for intake aswell as extract. either that or don't seal the room by making passive intakes like tents have, you just need to figure out how to filter the air that passes through there and also block light from coming in there during your dark cycle. Active intake = a inline fan pushing fresh air in from outside with a hole the size of the fan you'll be using for the ducting to enter. Passive intake = a much bigger hole where there is no extra inline fan, but rather the space will start passively sucking air in as the extractor creates a vacuum. the extraction, for that size, don't go bigger than a 10cm inline fan, and obviously your ducting will have to be the 10cm ducting so it can fit the fan..... anything bigger than the 10cm extractor will be overkill for that space. then my last suggestion would be to grab some photoperiod plants and make it all much much much muuuuch easier on yourself. whatever auto you got the photoperiod of that same strain already exists and you can treat photoperiods like autos and flower them at any size, but you can't treat a autoflower like a photoperiod, and if you try the auto will show you the finger and turn against you. autos are for seasoned growers that have their situations fine tuned with no hickups! that's why I don't grow them, yet.

are you in WC? will let you know when I got extra clones

ahaaa makes a lot more sense can you get a driver for that light locally? I think growopz sell a drivers seperate. I know heatsinks and potentiometer is easy to source.

I've seen guys try to flower under white CFLs I guess quality also becomes a factor, or no? you can veg in a flower setup, but you shouldn't flower in a veg setup and conveniently the flower setup will need to be bigger and also cost more, so skip what's needed for veg and only focus on flower. how about everything from the first post paired with the 125w LM281b for 9 dollars light? 60 x 60 x 140 Tent = R950 125w Light = 9Dollar = R150 (probably pluss courier & import fees?) Clip Fan = R380 Extractor = R495 Total = R1975 That doesn't seem right, what am I missing?

Aha, I see you just don't skip over the part where I mentioned you can treat a photoperiod just like an auto. so you don't HAVE to get autos just cause you want less weed, smaller plant and less grow time. you can achieve this with photoperiods too. infact it will be way easier too. however you can not treat a auto like a photoperiod. photoperiods wont show you the finger when you colour outside the lines a little. where as with autos are more likely to give a person headaches cause of the whole "don't sneeze near them" thing. not true guage of how good of a grower you are, many times you'll come across people telling you how autos put them off growing cause of all the headache. not trying to bash your ways, just trying to make it easier for you brother don't know how I missed that! Carbon filter will remove some stuff, but it doesn't do a lot in terms of lowering EC. it will reduce stuff like chloramine, chloride and fluoride.. more a form of chemical reduction to make the water a little more "organic". for argument sake, if you take a given EC/PPM and run it through a carbon filter the readout should be less, but not much less. and on the other side of the knife, the amount of chemicals in the tap water is most likely less than 0.1, but that's enough chemicals to harm microbes. Nail on the head, Sir 🛠 You reduce EC by flushing the medium with low EC water. To increase EC you feed. but not just "feed" you need to know what to give, when to give and how much to give. this is where it becomes interesting the plants talk to those who listen