Jump to content

Twix Aphen

Regular Member
  • Posts

    374
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Twix Aphen last won the day on July 15 2021

Twix Aphen had the most liked content!

1 Follower

Recent Profile Visitors

1,051 profile views

Twix Aphen's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • One Year In
  • Reacting Well
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges

231

Reputation

  1. @ORGANinc. The secret sauce is to properly chelate the elements, before they come into contact with the roots and foliage. Alginic acid and mannitol are both chelating agents and are constituents of kelp. As you know, kelp is closely related to algae. It looks like a good product from Greenhouse, but why is it R2100 for a kg There's a few ways to improve the chelatiin, depending on your style of cultivation. Compost holds onto nutrients and the microbes cycle the nutrients. A minimum of 20 % organic matter in your medium is a great way to achieve this balance. A teaspoon of well made worm castings contains 50,000 different species of microbes. Less fertiliser is required if its assimilated into an available form and also buffered by carbon. Magnesium sulphate + fulvic acid = magnesium fulvate. A lot of sulphate compounds are approved for organic use, but they can be improved exponentially when mixed with humates. I use gypsum with my worm castings. The calcium is then synthesized into a chelated compound, called calcium humate. Calcium is responsible for delivering 7 other elements into the plant tissue. @PsyCLown I think that using these myco products is a better strategy than using toxic fungicides and pesticides. Treating the seed to prevent damping off is a wise move, in the field. Especially if the soil is marginal and needs improving. Your label says 150 g per hectare, but Indoors where the seed are planted individually, in a disease free environment then I don't think it makes much difference. The row on the left is the control, next 3 have had plant matters myco and the 3 on the right side had mycoroot. Trichoderma species are biotrophic mycoparasites, but they can turn necrotrophic. If your trichoderma turns necrotrophic, it will then kill off the harmful Fusarium, but it doesn't revert back into the biotrophic state. Once its in seek and destroy mode, your beneficials are also at risk. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycoparasitism However, in some combinations, the parasite may live during its early development as a biotroph, then kill its host and act more like destructive mycoparasites in late stages of parasitism.
  2. Microbial enhanced nutrition delivery, is the phrase he uses and also "There's a microbe behind every mineral" I think he farms with 18,000 apple trees and produces millions of apples every season. He says our farmers in SA are leading the world, when it comes to turning around the agricultural decline and rebuilding the soil's fertility. A lot of these strategies for building up the fertility with no till, teas and inoculants are for Broadacre, pasture lands and orchards. I'm not so sure that they scale down, or are appropriate for our small garden use. There are only 2 known species of Endo mycos (glomulus) that form any relationship with weed. Do any myco products list the spores they contain? It can take up to 10 weeks for the symbiosis to establish. If there's already an abundance of soluble P in the soil, then the mycos can remain dormant, or even turn parasitic against the host species If you use trichoderma in your potting mix then it will dominate over other species. Its the most aggressive fungi in the soil and it chows up other mycos, in its wake.
  3. @Marzcanna I like me pavlis, he isn't trying to sell anything and says it straight. Have you read his opinions on fish fertiliser? Another good website is called horticultural myths, by a lady called Linda Chalker-Scott. If you apply too much nitrate, organic, synthetic or whatever, then it burns out the carbon and you strip away the fertility of your ground. You create a feeding frenzy, boom and bust scenario. Use organic matter, compost, humic acid and fulvic acid and don't go too heavy on any fertiliser. Organic fertilizers work well with compost and OM, as do synthetic salts.
  4. I'm ready to start feeding with the hortimix now. I will probably go for 1:1 a&b to start, then 1:1:1 a b & mkp for later flowering with a bit of extra Epsom salts added in.ghe 1 litre bloom formula can be replicated with 110 g mkp and 20 g of Epsom salt. This is the npk values when I convert the powders into liquid. I think ripen is slightly different composition, mainly mkp, with some potassium sulphate, magnesium nitrate and potassium nitrate in smaller amounts. If the label on the bottle lists the g/kg then you can also work backwards to find out the SG, w/w and w/v to get the exact proportions for each component in any fertiliser compound.
  5. @CoolJDid you need an invite, or can you just rock up at the gate and load up the car boot? @Naughty.Psychonaut check your inbox
  6. That's funny, my friend gave me the tops of 2 plants that were too big for his boot, He got a tour of the farm and could pick any plants he liked.
  7. There's a fine sight. How big are the clones when they arrive and how much did they cost? My hash plant x Blueberry were originally bought from a farm, near Paarl. Apparently there's a sign at the gate saying Hemp Plants For Sale. They are the fastest and easiest plants I've got growing, also mildew/Eskom resistant too. You also don't know what it was treated with either. They could potentially be sprayed with a cocktail of poison to keep the mildew and bugs away.
  8. Good day, I sprayed all over the surface of the coco and then let the nutes wash it through into the gutter. I did it every 3 days or so, when the lights went on, just before the irrigation cycle started. It took 10 litres to dose the whole tent (2.4 x 2.4). I think I used 3 x 50 ml bottles over the duration. Not many countries allow spinosad to be sold over the counter and in California it's on the banned list for cannabis. The efekto pamphlet only recommended a drench for lawns, to kill caterpillars. These aphids have got a waxy shield that protects them so I used the highest dosage recommend. According to Cloyd, “Root aphids may hide under the root ball thus allowing them to escape exposure to any insecticide residues. Systemic insecticides may not be effective against root aphids as insufficient (non-lethal) concentrations of the active ingredient may not accumulate in the roots where they are feeding.” I've spoken to another grower about this problem and their solution was to remove any effected plants and destroy them. Then in the remaining plants, use an aphicide that he applied once a week, until he was sure they didn't return. He used a neo nicotinoid which is something I personally think should be banned
  9. Its winter and curfew, I'm not out and about at night time so I need a hobby Yeah thanks, happy days. They went into flower last week end. Your ones must be nearly finished by now?
  10. @PsyCLownI think the instructions from efekto says 12 ml to 10 L for drenching lawns, I had a big problem in my pots so I went with 15 ml in 10 litres and it worked. Its a long time since I used any spinosad, I stopped caring about the fungus gnat larvae and worms, when I moved back from hydro to soil. I rotate all pesticides to avoid the bugs building any resistance and bio neem works well without causing any plant stress. Good luck , I hope you solve it soon.
  11. A new home for the babiespollenating the Pre-flowers12/12 for the big ones7 Watter is the best R15 I spent on this grow.clones need topping nowI got the hash plants green again, before flippingveg room is full againone male pulled out of flowering.
  12. @Pants I stopped keeping mother plants a long time ago, now I'm just a serial cloner. Air pruning also works well to build equal growth from clones. You need a clone tray with big holes at the bottom and raise it up off the floor. The roots will prune themselves and you don't have to take them out the tray and cut any roots.
  13. I got rid of worms and larvae in my Coco by mixing 1.5 ml eco insect control and alternating the drench with bio neem at 2 ml. I adjusted the pH to 6 for improved efficacy. When you use these liquids as on the soil they are absorbed by the roots and act as systemic pesticides. I rotated the drenches for 3 weeks and eliminated the issue.
  14. You can use something with spinosad in it. Soil drenching should get rid of them.
×
×
  • Create New...