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Great idea to regulate output, that is definately an easy Diy. You could even use an 'air regulator' for fishtanks.

 

Key things to remember

 

1. Dissolve all sugar, use a stove top if needed. I normally just boil the kettle, +- 1.7L, dissolve my 500g - 600g brown sugar.

 

2. Ensure sufficient oxygen. Yeast needs oxygen and sugar to create Co2. Using a 5L bottle, shake up the remaining 3.3L or use an airstone and pump to add O2.

 

3. Add dissolved sugar mixture to cold water. Once sugar has been added, you can once again give it a good shake, ensure proper mixing whilst adding O2 by means of shaking

 

4. Temperature, you want your water temp to be around room temp, if the water is too hot, it will kill your yeast, same goes for cold water. When water is right temp, add your yeast. 5g per 5L, but using those 7g anchor sticks, will work just fine.

 

5. Do not shake the bottle after adding yeast, you can after 15mins,turn the bottle a few times to mix, but don't shake.

 

6. Water trap. It is quite important to make sure no O2 can get back into your mix. A pinhole or 2 in the lid of a cooldrink bottle will also works.

 

Good luck and use that brewers yeast to make some cider :). Brewers yeast is hard to come by at the moment.

 

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

 

 

Thank you so much for all of this, it will definitely help me. I didn't get a chance to get the yeast today so I'll get going on it tomorrow. I might be able to get the valve as well.

 

I'm a bit confused by what you meant with no. 6

 

I did follow your steps though, I have a chemistry background and know a few microbiologists so I had a base knowledge on the process, my ratios were just way off as I didn't know yeast was this active.

I won't lie, it's a fun project.

 

I want to regulate it such that there's always a slight bit of positive pressure inside the generator and collector bottles, and ultimately get the solution to continue producing CO2 for a week or 2.

 

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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Greetings everyone. Back with another update;

I fed them about half way into their light cycle then proceeded to lollipop and defoliate them. This time it was some proper abuse, lol. 

I took 4 clones off each tree and stuck them under a humidity dome in my incomplete veg box. Let's see what happens. 

Here are the before and after shots, as well as some of the clones. 

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Edited by TheUltimateNoob
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On 5/17/2020 at 8:02 AM, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

Sweeet, got a Fem Inzane in the membrane seed from Ethos chilling in the fridge, in line for my next grow.

Will be following for sure, excited to see what happens here!

Plants are looking sexy my dude!

Hey, out of curiosity and pure understanding, you put the seeds in the fridge? Should I or everyone be following such a practice? Ethos seem to be good dank and will definitely try soon.

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14 hours ago, StickyD420 said:

Hey, out of curiosity and pure understanding, you put the seeds in the fridge? Should I or everyone be following such a practice? Ethos seem to be good dank and will definitely try soon.

What's good my dude.

In this thread, following that statement I made, we kinda debate it a little. It's certainly not written in stone, have a look at what the other guys said and how we all brought up different points and opinions, from there it's all your own decision.

For me, to a certain extent, it's just about a little thing called "biometics" or "biomimicry". Basically mimicing the systems and elements of nature, I don't mean seeds being put in the fridge, but rather the fact that seeds when dropped from the plant does not sprout immediately, they lay dormant in through a cold period (winter time) and only sprout when the heat comes back around (spring time).

I've read about fresh seeds, as in straight from the living plant, are less viable than seeds that have been through a cold shock or a dry period, but I read that shit on the internet and I haven't done my own experiments to back those statements as facts, so I don't, but it makes sense to me.

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Most probably my bad for only reading on after the reply, and had not once heard that being done before, I also did a Google and came out with the advice of method used at seed banks and that was their practice too. All actually makes sense and as you mentioned like they would be in their natural environment, cold till ready to go.

I guess everyone is always talking or showing and sharing their grows, not their storage methods, lol.

Edited by StickyD420
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20 minutes ago, Prom said:

^^ I went with the breeders suggestions.. they are not bad at storing seeds 😁

https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/content/36-how-to-preserve-seeds

Temperature changes are some of the worst you can do to them... dry humidity, darkness and even temp.. my seed vault is a thermos box in which i have my vacuum storage containers with my little treasures. 

I understand your reasoning, and it makes sense one hundred percent, at first my reaction was that the seed are sealed in a airtight container when you get them, and wondered if when the seeds had been packed, had the humidity been 0%? If for any reason there is moisture in the container with the seed, would that be an issue? Learning here so dont kill me.

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8 minutes ago, StickyD420 said:

I understand your reasoning, and it makes sense one hundred percent, at first my reaction was that the seed are sealed in a airtight container when you get them, and wondered if when the seeds had been packed, had the humidity been 0%? If for any reason there is moisture in the container with the seed, would that be an issue? Learning here so dont kill me.

Depending on how sterile the moisture is, it could actually germinate the seeds if humidity is high. 

And mold and bacteria like moisture so it's best to limit it as much as possible. 

So silica packs work a peach... And a low stable temperature 

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Storage has even stricter rules when you handle your seeds.. never touch them with your fingers in the first place. Wear sterile gloves when you handle them in your storage. 

I have silica packs in my thermos container, but not with the seeds directly. If you live in a dry area.. no need, I have a really close ocean.. we always have moisture in the air. Keep them dry but also don't crisp them ^^ they go 0% moisture inside, they die too. 

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LEVELS OF HUMIDITY

EFFECTS OF HUMIDITY ON CANNABIS SEEDS

80 - 100 %  Seeds drown and wilt after about 12 hours. 
40 - 60 % Seeds germinate.
20 - 30 % Advisable to store your seeds.
18 - 20 % Heating may occur, causing your seeds to sweat.
12 - 14 %  Over time, this amount of humidity creates a breeding ground for fungi both inside and outside your seeds.
8 - 9% Over time, this humidity level attracts insects and pests.
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Okay so here's that long overdue update. Apologies for the delay. 

 

I was fighting a losing battle with the Black Fire tree, and managed to sort out the lockout issues I had, only to have the tree recover and hermie on me... You can read about it here if you'd like to see what happened;

https://www.420sa.co.za/index.php?/topic/3821-Emergency,-advice-needed

The Inzane in flourishing. I've transplanted her into a 20L smart pot 2 days ago and did some light LST to spread her out a bit more. The first 4 pictures are from transplant day - the rest I took a few minutes ago. 

 

Seems like she filled out the tent well but I know I'll see a lower yield than my Blue Dream tree as this wasn't a true mainline and the bud structure is a bit more spaced out. 

I'll stick to creating a Flux or regular mainlining from my next grow, I prefer it, also I think 1 tree at a time in this tent is enough. I don't want to have to lose a tree again.

 

She's due for a feed tomorrow, and a light defoliation as well. Will update once it's done. 

 

Enjoy

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Edited by TheUltimateNoob
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I've had a few plants that had those looking like it's a male, then a pistol comes out that sack and not more sack and pollen, is that a Hermie or just a fat pistol?
There were other preflower sites that looked more developed, had a stalk and judging by how much stress the tree saw then how it reacted, I didn't want to chance it really.

There should have been pistils at that point in flower because the bud sites were developing already, yet only with leafy growth and no signs of female flowers.

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Okay, so I fed her a few hours ago and she's doing really well. Can't wait for the buds to start filling out so I can finally see what they look like!

I didn't consider the size of the new pot so I misjudged when I would have had to feed her, hence the delayed post. Nothing's really changing, but she is moving along well.

 

She has really good structure but I feel the internodes could've been tighter. All in all, I'm happy with how this Inzane is turning out, and there isn't much longer left. 

This tree is also due for a defoliation real soon.

 

Enjoy.

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Edited by TheUltimateNoob
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Greetings Fam.

There isn't much happening in the tent but the buds have started to pack on some weight.

I fed them a day or 2 ago and rigged together a magnetic stirrer to put into the new CO2 generator bottle, I hooked it up to the light timer. This way it increases CO2 production during the light cycle by lightly stirring the solution and stops once the lights go out.

As a separate project, I made a wing reflector out of a can and mounted 2 HID LED car headlights on it. I have it in a Microgrow box that I'll reveal to you guys in a separate thread. The entire system is 12V and runs off a PC power supply. 

Anyway, here are some pictures of what the Inzane tree looks like right now. The Frost is real, lol

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Edited by TheUltimateNoob
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