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Everything posted by Naughty.Psychonaut

  1. Hi @RichardCPT hope you are well, just wana help you here, the males don't make seeds they only make pollen. They don't really have the potential of making seeds, only the females do once they have been pollenated by the pollen from the males. the male pollen sack looks like a ball before they open, but there's no seed. the only reason a female plant would make seeds is if it was pollenated by a male or turned hermie through bad genetics or stress and pollenated itself. the only reason to remove males or hermies is to avoid seeds, this is how we get seedless weed indoors. outdoors it's harder cause of stray pollen being able to travel in the wind.
  2. I am sure you know about André De Ruyters book "Truth to Power"? Ex CEO of Eskom.... good read for anyone in SA. think that can make things very clear. you can say factories and businesses are down right now, but they wheren't during the rugby world cup? and many other times...... plus majority of corporate owned businesses don't shut down whole factories just to get through a day of christmas, they'll have 1 guy on stand by or the factory just pushes through. the whole world still works up to the 23rd and continues on the 27th only to take off on the 1st again for 1 day. how does that equal to a whole month without loadshedding? someone inside eskom can spin that shit and I'll smell rotten fish from miles away. Loadshedding started in 2007 as a temporary thing to give a gap in order to "fix the problem".... It's 2024 in 6 days, that gives us 16 - 17 years of loadshedding..... it hasn't been constant/consistent for all 17 years, we've had worse times and times with no loadshedding all through out. it's not a new thing to go through fluctuations. If it hasn't been clear as day, we're collectively too affraid to adress the problem directly, because the problem has our country in the palms of their hands and can do whatever they want right now. the problem is too big to fix, it's integrated into our society. The actual problems has been solved, but a new problem has emerged - management. New management doesn't have any grip on what they're doing, incompetence is running the power grid, problems of the previous mismanagement still exists, because of the current inconpetence not being able to focus on the the problem which is in itself the incompetence of the management. So they're literally just playing with the buttons. SA is in deeeeeeeeeep financial shit, so wherever our government can funnel money they will, trying to make it seem like they're working on the problem, but in reality they steal the money and loadshedding presists. It's just an easy gimmick for the fools running the show. They don't give a single shit about loadshedding, cause they're not affected by it. That's how it's going to be for as long as we accept the "ancestral cultural richness" of the indiginous people that refuses any form constructive criticism.
  3. Hi brother, that spring water, orgasoilux and microbe mix you got going is good as gold!! those ph up and ph down stuff can upset a organic system. microbes are what keeps your organic system performing well, the ph up and down stuff will destroy microbes. the spring water is loaded with beneficial microbes so just keep at it with the spring water. orgasoilux works nice for plants that's a bit bigger, can sometimes be a little hot for younger plants.
  4. @king kong If I am understanding you, you wana be able to tell before they go into flower. Only way to do that is lab testing. otherwise you gotta wait till the plant expresses it physically so you can just tell like in the photos Bos showed, will be easy to tell them apart. trick is to get them before the male flowers open and pollenate your females. there is about a 1 to 2 week window, depending on genetics and conditions from when a male flower is clearly visible till it opens and releases pollen. so you gotta make sure you get them in the first few days of forming.
  5. @Sbuwie Hi bud hope you well, many things can cause leaves to curl, especially in seedling stage when the plant is still very sensitive. in the first two pics the tips look necrotic, that's a later stage of curl or whatever the problem is. usually stuff like a root zone problem or EC/pH related, but it could also be environment related. you gotta give us a bit more info. what has the temps and humidity been like? I see there's a cut off bottle for a make shift humidity dome? have you been keeping it over the plant? this could've caused temperature and humidity spikes that the plant didn't like. just giving water should be fine at this stage, but what medium are you in? looks like soil? maybe it's just a little too hot for the seedlings. meaning a little bit too nutrient rich, this happens a lot with seedlings in fresh soil. what soil is it? did you add anything to it? the more info you give us the more accurate the answer can be.
  6. I keep a bucket 1/3d fill with salt water, snails get dumped in and I clean and refill every week or two. after a while it's like they get the message or they start talking amongst eachother but yeah got minimal snail damage over here this year
  7. Hey bud do you own a EC/PPM pen or know of someone that does? When flushing your focus is the EC/PPM. so having a way to monitor and take readings on that will give you clear guidance instead of having to do the guessing game. You fill a bucket out the tap, read the EC, write it down. (should be low, below 1.0, if not don't use, get 5L bottled waters) Now use that water and slooooooooooowly get the pot to field capacity (this will ensure no dry pockets, so your EC reading will be true and more accurate) once you get first few drops of run off you can give a nice drench to get a good amount up to 500ml running out the bottom. Read the EC and see if you still need to flush or not. With living soil a mature plant can handle around 7.0EC and seedlings around 1.0 EC, you play between that. Synthetic growers never really need to go over 4.5 to 5.0EC. The flush may have resulted in a too low EC medium I grow in 30L pots, have had runs in the past toasting my plants to a crisp then doing a full 180 right by the grave. EC read out was 9.9 (anything higher my probe can't even read) but I only flush with like 5 to 10L of water then I'm back at 0.0EC then I have to rebuild the soil with Jamies Elemental blend, bat guano, gypsum and Diatomaceous Earth. Nute lockout usually happens cause of salt build up, that can happen even in the earth, not only salty synthetic hydro growers. organic living soils are not free of the salt build up threat. It happens as a result of pockets of nutes, which is something completely natural. the rhizosphere you have a whole micro-universe, if one strand of root finds its way into a pocket of nutes that's too much for it to uptake the root will burn. This will show as early onset signs of nute burn on the leaves, but what happens in the rootzone is the pocket of nutes never gets uptaken cz the roots around that area is now damaged. Now the nute compounds find eachother, same way if you put too much salt in water and let it sit, the salt will "find itself" and recrystallize. This happens on such micro scale you wouldn't be able to see physical crystals with your naked eye, but they're there, these chain of events is what we call "nute lock out" cause the roots got too much of a certain compound and the result is locking out that compound completely, majority of the time you can also see the plant stops uptaking any nutes for that matter or even sometimes you get like N lock out but the plant indicates a Ca shortage, cause it's not always the compound that causes the lock that'll be the one locked out, if that makes any sense? It can also show as nutrient deficiency at later stages. You keep feeding and it seems to not do anything. It's like ph zones, if you out of the right zone the plant only uptakes certain nutes and doesn't uptake others. so you gotta find that fine line balance. Anyway, hope any of this helped at least a little.
  8. Nice selections brother gona stink up the whole town come flower time!
  9. @N3wtonic Welcome! Never overthink anything no such thing as wrong questions. That plant must be over a month old now, hows things going?
  10. only a pleasure bro, no stress, that light will still get a plant growing, it's actually perfect for seedlings or vegging one plant in a small tent where you have the tent walls the light can be reflected off of. In a big tent or open room that light will fall off to the sides, in a small tent you could fill the space and grow 1 nice sized plant. I just wouldn't use that light for flowering, you could, but you probably wont get the best expression out of the plant since the light wont put out sufficient ppfd / par needed for optimal flower production.
  11. @Gugu Hey bud, hope all is well on your side. Everyone probably feels like they on a tight budget, we all always wana make more than we currently do, plus it's not always about who has the. best light or the most light, it's more about how you use it. not for a second would I want anyone to think I "have it all figured out" cause I don't, but something personal I've learnt that's been a big change in my whole outlook on working with money and letting your money work for you is - The reason people with a bit of extra money buy the more expensive stuff is not cause they "stupid rich" or just spend it cause they have it. There's a certain point at which the scales tip into the "stupid rich" part aswell, no doubt about that, but majority of the time people avoid the very cheapest options cause of the stigma around shopping cheap will have you spending more in the end.... it's bad investments to buy cheap stuff. a person with a bit of money wouldn't buy cheap stuff, cause it's almost always all a loss, where as if you buy something proper and it's a good investment you can use that and turn it around to work for you and make your money back at least or even if the investment is really good it can make more money from it. if you think about it it's more important for a person on a really tight budget to skip over the cheaper options, if that makes any sense. I've got a 300w blurple LED in a box. got it with my first tent as a combo, can't get someone to buy the light off me, also don't really wana sell it to someone with all the new tech out there. now I just keep it as backup or suplemental light. it's marketed at 300w, tested it and it pulls 240w, but it's got fans on a hestsink and what not so I'd say only around 200w goes to the diodes. The concept has really shifted now, with those old school HIDs you needed a cool tube or hood with inline fan to cool the whole light down. Then LEDs came along with the first tech being shitty. QB LEDs came and went. The better part of the first LEDs had everything "built in" to one body, so it was plug and play. to ensure better output and longer lifespan of your light you would have the diodes mounted directly on a heatsink with fans blowing on the heatsink to keep everything running cool. Now with the newest tech the diodes are spread out as far as possible so it never even heats up. This also allows for the light coverage to be basically optimal if you in a tent you can have a whole canopy of lights and you can have the light very very close the plants with minimal to no light stress and this also allows for optimal penetration into the plant canopy. The older bigger QBs that ran kak hot also obstructed air flow, you couldn't get the plant close to it cause it's so hot, cause all the light is focussed on one panel in one spot, so you have to raise it far in order to let it spread and cool down to get better coverage then you loose penetration, where the bar style lights allow for free airflow and the airflow also allows the bars to be cooled down passively and everything is better even if you ran with cheaper diodes, but now all that's left is to look at the quality of the diodes. Luckily a team called Horticulture Lighting Group been working on this for years and teamed up with Samsung to bring us some of the very best plant growing diodes on the market for now. So we gotta think about this, cause growing plants is all environment based, it's not about who has the best light or who has the most light. It's how you use it, like they say Now I got a DIY 300w LED bar light with a HLG driver and Samsung strips, it can put out 300w but I run her at 280 most of the time just for that extra few years addes at the end when she gets old. no electronic will ever be made that'll last forever, but we can try! If you look around on the internet for a branded LED with the same specs they'll go for up to 8-10k, I got my stuff from the source with some extras, slapped it together myself for 4k .
  12. lol why do you say that? the discrepancy with organics being slower is because people have lost touch with organics and struggle to get it right. when you talk to a organic guru you'll see it moves extremely fast, just as fast as hydro and some cases faster. 99.99% of newer growers who do "organics" just use normal soil and biobizz then call it organic, but their plants are stunted literally from day one all the way through. when a plant is moving slow but looks 100% healthy - it's stunted - and that's why people think organics is slower. I've outgrown synthetic/hydo growers a numbers of times with my own living soil. Takes a couple years to get there, but once you there you drastically scale down visiting the grow stores and nurseries all together. but we can't compare or view synthetics and organics in the same light at all, because worm poo and piss is sustainable, I source it right in in my back yard, no need to break shit down to make my nutes, no need for manufacturing factories and all the pollution that goes along with bringing a bottle of nutes to the shelf, no need for plastics all that shit and then in the end the use of synthetics is also harmfull in so many ways long before you consume it. so it's just two completely different things in the end.
  13. Ahh yeah that's not too earlyHahah I get you, but you would be surprised. It's actually the other way around. In the short term you are "feeding" the plants with the leftover synthetic nutrients, so you may see them looking greener for a couple days after giving the feed, but in the long run you are compromising and destroying the life in your soil micro biome. not sure how much you care about it, but it's basically a global epidemic and people choose to be blissfully unaware even if all information was presented. we're at a point where we can no longer sustainably use synthetic fertilizers, that documentary explains it nicely to keep them smaller you gotta reduce feed, play between quater to half strength for feeding they will slow down
  14. The GSC was one of the first of the cookies stuff, nice sweet terps. I haven't grown the blueberry muffin so don't know much about it, I'm sure it's awesome
  15. Woah hahah that is high, how big where the plants when you started the 450ppm twice a day? Did you go for such a stretch? Just a note, you know bout the reason why people don't use synthetic nutrients in living soil - cause it kills the microbes - so just keep that in mind when you pouring the runoff in your garden. it will destroy the micro biome of any living soil, especially in a pot where soil is little. A good documentary for any kinda grower to watch - it's on Netflix too, roll a fatty, sit back and treat yourself, it's a goood one
  16. Ahoooy TART POPS my brother! hahah nah but that OKC is a winner, I'd vote that one too! to me, between the OKC and TP, I would have to go with the TP, but only for personal reasons I grew a sour lemon OG by emerald triangle seeds like 3/4 years ago (swamis selections) I can still smell in some of my jars. explosive terps, but I grew so much of it that anything citrus puts me off these days. when talking sweet terps there's two overtones, citrus and the "cookie/gelato" sweetness the SSC run I did, the C stands for cookies, has the charactaristics of cookies/gelato, very sweet, but I can see after this I'll be giving the cookies/gelato stuff a break. I need some chemical savoury garlic gas in my life right now. a large group of people saying gelato/cookies fucked the whole gene pool cause of the genetic bottle necking, majority of hybrids today is a cookies/gelato cross. Cookies / gelato basically the same thing. I say the consensus speaks for itself. They got the original GSC and G33 cuts too, good options. A good mix of zesty citrus sweetness with a nice gelato / cookies balance would be the Blue Sherbet.... the thing with Dagga Farmacy, they make it too good for us, too much to choose from then it becomes blurred
  17. Awe brother, hope and trust all is well on your side. Don't change anything now, autos don't like to be bothered at all. Your best shot now is to just get the feeding right. Autos you stunt once and they show you the finger, but for future reference.... The 3 part mix is usually 1:1:1 - peat:drainage:wormcastings. First I wana touch on the wormcastings, cause I see you put potting soil instead. When buying worm castings you gotta be a bit snobby, cause 95% of commercially available WC will have sand and some kinda "filler" mixed in to fill more bags. Anything that's available in bulk at commercial retailers will lack on the side of quality, cause they pushing for quantity and serving only the unknowing masses. I make my own WC so I know what I work with, but in my days of buying it, you get one kak batch and it will fuck your view of the stuff. Since building my own soil with my own 100% pure WC my organic living soils been pumping faster than some peoples hydro setups. Now you gotta know, if just the quality og worm castings put in can make such a big difference, there's obviously a HUGE drop in quality when you talk about nutrient availability in WC and potting soil... Potting soil...... eh..... I get nauseous when I have to talk about it. My passion is rare plant collecting, got a big greenhouse with some extremely rare plants. Been on it for up to 15 years now, learnt the hard way that potting soil is detremental to most plants. Double Grow, Reliance, Red Tracktor, Cultera, ALL OF THEM fall under this umbrella. Any generic potting soil will lead you "van die wal af in die sloot". I haven't bought a bag of potting soil in more than 10 years, that doesn't mean my family stopped with their shit or learnt their lesson by now, still wondering why each and every plant they bring home from the nurseries with a new pot with a fresh bag of potting soil with all the bells and whistles the nurseries make them buy, just instantly dies as soon as they repot them. I mean the answer is in there, just need to not be oblivious to it. I avoid potting soil even for my ornamental plants. For peat I avoid coco unless it's untreated and pre-buffered. Those coco bricks get treated with a sodium based product to compress them into those bricks, if they're unbuffered that sodium starts to affect your soil and you get major ph swings even when you do "organic" feeding. Calcium buffer will help the coco act like soil where it holds onto nutrients otherwise the coco will stay negatively charged with no cation exchange sites, so it'll fill your pots but the nutrients just run straight through or you get nutrient build up from the plant not being able to access it cause it's not breaking down into plant available compounds and then you get root burn and nutrient lock out and and and all the undesired rootzone problems. You can't have buffered peat that's compressed, cause the sodium treatment will undo the calcium buffer, and vice versa - part of the calcium buffer strips the coco of sodium, so you can only really buy untreated coco (extremely rare) or pre-buffered coco. Otherwise if you going for the cheap option you gotta put in the work and buffer it yourself. To skip all that, just get Sphagnum peat. works 1000 times better than coco, never goes negatively charged, no need to buffer, no sodium byproducts and just all around a better option. For drainage, skip perlite and go straight for leca. Endless reasons why, I'd love to tell you all the reasons, but I am sure by now you're getting tired of all the reading. If you want me to give the reasons just say so and I'll drop the info. I hope you're not one to be diacouraged by reading more than 2 or 3 sentences, as with all crafts people enjoy, if you're into something you gotta be into it at least a little and not give only the bare minimum and then expect the best results. more often than not a short snappy response will lead you further from where you need to be, because we all interpret things differently. forums are a thing these days cause people don't always have the time and means to go read a whole book or do deep research on something just to get the 1 single answer you looking for, so a forum allows people to ask a question directly and get a answer directly - hopefully from people who know what they talking about and the majority of the time people don't, they just wana "help" so they throw in their but infact answers to things that has more than one variable will never be direct and short. there are many ways to grow a plant, like these people say seem like your plant is fine and it will obviously grow, but for sure there are "better ways". If you think about it, the very very best grower in the world still tinkers and tweaks his methods to improve what he's doing cause there is always room for improvement, no matter what the level of expertise.
  18. that doesn't look like too much brother, I've had way leafier strains, those buds look good from what I can see through the jars. hope you at least enjoying the smoke? did you put them in jars untrimmed? I've seen lots of people doing that lately, but if you think about it, the resin carries the terpenes and all the other fun stuff and the resin is only in the trichomes, so putting any leaf you wouldn't smoke in a jar with a bud that smell will affect your bud. I personally just avoid it, cause I collect my sugar leaf for pressing and if you smell the bag of just sugar leaf already doesn't smell as good as the jars of bud. so I don't want the "not as good smell" drag the "very good smell" down at all. I don't bring anything that doesn't have trichomes on it close to my jars
  19. Hammer on the head the other side is if you got poop genetics doesn't matter what you do condition wise, it's gona come out poop. but you literally get all different creeds of "weed". I've grown incredibly frosty plants that taste horrible, grow the same cut a few times cause I think maybe I fucked it up, but then it comes out like that everytime. I've grown airy buds that have more resin than some dense buds I've grown. I've had super terpy and frosty nugs not make me high at all and I've had buds that don't look too frosty and got no smell got me more goofed than most generic strains... but then I don't enjoy the smoke so it's not like one or the other, it's more like there's a million different ways it can go, you on a tight rope and gotta find that balance by making sure you do many things right. for example, get the right seeds + do what ever you can to improve grow conditions + learn to speak plant so you don't have to wait to already see damage then fix it rather try avoiding damage at all costs, and a few other things. It's a pleasure typing them I can yap about plants and plant people all day. We love to present ourselves with this ethereal positivite force always in a good mood, always spreading postivity always affirming everything and there's no right or wrong way nature works in balance, that's the whole point. we have good and bad, right and wrong and even more than that we have a spectrum of how right and how wrong. here is a photo I came across on the internet, some of my friends will have their jars filled with buds like these and that's perfectly fine for them, their priorities lies elsewhere, again not saying it to be mean, it just is what it is. people who get offended by the truth needs to accept and conform to the truth so they can be in a better mental state. People smoke leaf with no resin on. fuck knows why, I think it comes from a time being short of weed and now wanting to smoke as much as possible. and as they say, "beauty lies in the eye of the beholder" and some dudes just don't mind a woman with extra baggage to answer your question, I would say 1st thing to worry about is genetics for sure, almost just as important is light, stuff like a light leak may make you think you got herm genetics, but it's just a condition flaw. Weak light, insufficient light, wrong colour spectrum will all have you produce poooo. Like on a colour spectrum wheel, you have opposite ends, you can put the very best grow light on one end and on the other end you put a 10w CFL bulb, it's quite obvious that the cfl grow will produce the airiest fluffiest shittiest non smokable twig and leaf looking nonsense bud, where the grow with the decent light will already put you way ahead of the other grow. but then you can have the best genetics, best light, but you run your humidity too high you can suffocate and stunt growth on the plants, may get a few nice buds. but again you gona think the genetics is kak if you don't get a good expression, cause of conditions. so yeah, a fine line of many different things you have to balance, not one or the other
  20. Hi brother I just love cannabis and everything around it, all that was mentioned and then also good time management. I know a lot of people that would much rather go for a few beers than to finish their trimming.... and a whole lot of other stuff not trying to beat around the bush, but it just is what it is. I already know some old cats gona get suuuur gat when I say this, cause the cannabis industry revolves around status points and obviously no one would ever be able to know more than these older growers, same as the weed back in the day being soooo much stronger than we have today I strongly discourage talking to people over the age of 45 about growing. I talk to some "serious seasoned growers" and they bombard me with questions before I am finished answering one question they wana ramble off the next just trying to "catch me out" or some school yard nonsense. Majority of people who get into weed is cause they like smoking it. I am not a weed guy, I am a plant guy. My background is in horticulture, permaculture, botany and mycology. That's what I do in my spare time. I am so fucked in the head by plants that's all I do all the time, so to me the plant is soooooo much more than just the cannabis we smoke. I will talk and have long form discussions about it day in and day out, and not just the cannabis part, the rest of the plant too. As soon as the person I am talking to takes the "I'm gona teach this guy a lesson" approach, they start talking to themself. I am not into cannabis to be cool or to be the best, I just honestly love working with plants. Trimming cannabis, to me, is a huge pleasure, I take extra time to investigate and do things most people would consider a waste, but to me that just shows a person validating their own preconceptive laziness. For example - I run living soil that I build and maintain myself, but when I talk about it every second comment is "that sounds like a lot of work" or "you do too much, I only do this..." and best of all is I never even ask, they just feel the need to chime in. As things are right now I am looking for ways to better what I do, I wana do more, cause the amount of work I put in, is already done. when doing real living soil you literally doing the least out of every method of growing, it just takes work to get there. once you there it's almost no work, so when a "serious grower" wana tell me I do too much, they can go fuck a hobo. but yeah genetics make a big difference too, I would trim for others too, not a big deal to me don't even have to reward me with weed but I would never say no, just don't accept payment for it. I got only one rule, I will not trim shitty weed. I grow a plant that's too leafy/airy for my liking I just cut all fan leaves that don't have trichomes and the rest goes in the hash bags. So yeah genetics can make the biggest difference there, and then you can add to that the fact that a 1st time grower realistically faces the possibility of growing a top tier genetic and it coming out airy and leafy cause of grow tech and all that, even seasoned growers run into this when they still figuring new genetics out. Harvesting a healthy plant over a sub par or unhealthy plant can determine the trim job aswell, have had failed plants just go straight into hash bags, covered in trichomes but bud forms was off, cause I fucked up the grow, then grow that same pheno and produce nice rock solid nuggs, those I trim hope this wasn't too much of an answer
  21. you mean bloom during veg as it shows on the schedule? I think the schedule shows just bloom phase, those 1st two weeks on the schedule that shows no bloom is still during bloom, as your plants still stretches. common to know there is a uptic in N uptake during first 2 weeks after flip, cause the plant doesn't get 12/12 yesterday and the next day it's in full bloom. doesn't work like that. so giving bloom the 1st day after flip wouldn't make sense as the plant only demands more K and P at around end of week2 - week 3 of flower when you see the pistil pompoms form. if you think about it, if the biobizz schedule shows only 2 weeks for veg biobizz has never grown a cannabis plant, wouldn't make sense. veg feed with biobizz you need to alternate, give just grow, then just fish then just clean water. not feed every single time, you need to have clean waterings. plus you need both compounds in the fish and the veg during veg, so don't give just fish or just grow. alternate, and do clean waterings. when you ending week 2 moving into week 3 you start introducing bloom, cut the fish completely, just use grow now as it has all the molasses you need to keep microbial activity at a high during flower and the fish which is N steroids would no longer be needed, now you alternate like this - bloom+grow, then just bloom, then just water, then bloom+grow, then just bloom, then just water.
  22. Shot bud, I've grown about 5 different cheese strains, with only about 3 slight variations, but for sure different charactaristics with a cheese "overtone". I am doing a favour for a grower with a big open space that keeps quite a bunch of mothers, he wants to build up a library of cheese cuts to work with, not really looking for "the best one". I completely agree about there being much better stuff to grow and people protecting the black market cuts. I've told him that too, but it's not really relevant to him right now. He popped some cheese seeds none of them got any charactaristics that would resemble anything cheese related. I gave him the SC cut from dagga farmacy, blew him away, and we smoked some big buddha, he wanted to get his hands on that cut too and a couple days later he asked what cheese cuts I can get my hands on. so I just said I'll throw out the question and see what happens. Cause I know I've heard about at least 10 different "amaaaaazing" cheese cuts on this site alone, not really out here looking for the best thing to grow or even the best cheese to grow.
  23. Been smoke testing them all this past week, verging on 3weeks cure now things are starting to speak up. Clear winner #4. Extremely resinous, and I don't mean trichome count. Resin is something inside the trichome. Trichomes themself don't make you high. Looking at one singular mature trichome the stalk and outer layer of resin head is basically a mix of pure celluloce and silica. The resin inside the resin head contains the tetrahydrocanabinol in all different forms and qualities. All 5 these SSC cuts had about the same trichome production/count, yet only #4 fucked my scissors to the point where I had to clean between every second or third bud or else the scissor will get stuck. You can draw your own conclusions with that information, clearly a lot more can and should be said, but for now here's the report. 1st Rundown - 10 to 12 weeks flower, had different expressions across 5 phenos, 1st plant to finish on week 10 but the rest clearly had to go longer, 2 plants harvested a week later and another 2 plants harvested on week 12. 5 plants in 1 year mature living soil built with my own worm castings and a shit ton of ongoing KNF treatments (FPJ, FPE, FFJ, FFE, LABS, SST, JMS and more) unfortunately not no till as each plant got their own 30L pot, so I had to disturb when loading pots. 5 different phenos warrent individual pots to avoid root zone competition and get a fuller expression of charactaristics. If I do a monocrop I will run a bed. Alternating between worm piss from my worm tower and clean water. One single topdress last week of veg. Jamies Elemental blend + Bat guano + Micronized Calcium. Total weight = 365g GPW = 1.2 #1 - 69g Gelato/Cookies terps. For the bulk suppliers this would be your pick on bag appeal alone. #2 - 77g Fruity/Floral terps with a hidden Gelato sweetness, but the least cookies leaning pheno of the bunch. #3 - 65g Straight Cookie sweet terps, most compact/smallest out of the bunch, really nice structure, rock hard dense buds. #4 - The keeper. 74g Chemical/Gas terps hit you right in the face, with a lingering cookie sweetness, heavy flavour covers the whole inside of your mouth, can't smoke enough of her. I prefer green weed over purple too, may be a placebo by now, but purple is a turn off. This bud sticky as fuuuug. #5 - 80g biggest yielder. Straight up and down Cookie terps all the way. Additional info - Have not processed any of the buds cause they're all good enough to smoke just the way they are. Trim got stuck in the bag, wouldn't fall out even when I shake the bag upside down open. got it on video for those who wana see. Took 40g of the trim to the press, got 4.5g 1st press and 3.6g on the second press. Total of 8.1g from 40g trim gives me a fat 20% return on the trim alone on par with some of the best bud. Pressed Peanut Butter Breath buds, got a 25% return so I know it goes higher, but 25% is about maxing it out for now, I've heard about 30% returns, just haven't worked with it before. All videos of the trim/press/rosin and what what will be thrown up on my instagram page. ethnobotany.winelands
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