PsyCLown

That soil does not look good, when last did you give them water? What nutes are you using and how much are you giving them etc?

I don't see the stretch being much of a problem, worst case put together something to ensure the seedling stays upright until it starts to strengthen up and can support itself again - which is typically a few days at most. Use the CFL's for now since you already have them and then switch over to the QB once you receive it and just run it on low power and you can run it relatively close to the seedlings too if you'd like. EDIT: If you already have CFL's, and a QB on the way, I don't think you need to waste money on an ACDC light.

I don't have anything additional, I don't feel it is an issue. Like small pests such as thrips could possibly fit through but its unlikely that will happen. You'd need to have a pest issue in order for that to happen.

Clones and seedlings don't need a lot of light... Depending on your setup, it may be easier for you just to use your main grow lights - if you can dim them and then start to up the power as the plants get bigger.

Biltong n Buds as posted above as well as @Cannabist

If you currently have LED strips or QB's, just dim your lights and lower them - that is what I do. Alternatively what @SkunkPharm has posted I imagine would work pretty well and barely uses any power too. A seedling will always stretch a bit, however I find they get to a point where I want them to start stretching more as they get a little bigger when I am doing my training. What light are you using @Kiteloop?

@TheUltimateNoob so I have some 3000K normal QB288's with LM301B diodes then I have some which are 3000K with LM301B diodes and some red diodes which I think are LM351H diodes. Honestly I do not notice any difference between the two, the amount of red in 3000k I feel is sufficient and I do not see much of a need for the extra red diodes. Also after watching a MiGro video about UV light, I feel that UV LED's are a waste and more marketing than anything else. EDIT: I would also not purchase from that Onlinegrowshop, this is based on what another member (cannot remember who) had posted with regards to what they use as heatsinks and the type of drivers they use etc.

I agree that an intake fan is a waste, as long as there is some way for passive air intake (I like using the Secret Jardin light baffles, they're filters and allow for better air intake without any light leaks). Air circulation inside the tent is important, a cheap solution is to get one of those box fans - they're easy to mount and help circulate the air as it has the cover on the front which turns to direct the airflow around the tent . A single fan for exhaust is sufficient too, it's not a large tent. I assume you have a 4" or 6" fan, which should be perfect. Airy bud as mentioned are likely down to light and/or genetics.

Really upto you, if you're in a hurry you could flip now but a day or two won't make a massive difference imo but they're at the point where they'll now start to explode in terms of growth. Your tent looks nice and full and they'll stretch in flower too. They may not be very tall plants, but that's not an issue really. As long as they're trained well and you defoliate nicely to ensure good light penetration it shouldn't be too much of an issue and I don't see it hurting yields all that much. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Digikey and Arrow sell strips, don't think they sell any QB288's unfortunately.

At R132/g you may as well buy bed from one of the bigger, more well known groups / people who sell bud. You can get a variety of strains and get to see what it looks like before you buy and you get it now and not in 4 months tiime. That makes more sense to me, more perks I reckon. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I also store most of my seeds in the fridge, I use silica gel beads to absorb any possible excess moisture. Storing seeds properly will help increase their shelf life. You want them stored in a dry space, hence the silica or I get rice. Don't want it to get moldy or to pop pre-maturely and preferably away from light too. The fridge I have mine in doesn't have a light, I also barely open it. My more expensive seeds are stored in the fridge currently. I'm able to do it, so I do it. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I must admit, 1kg in 1sqm does have me intrigued too and wondering whether I could reach such figures although I'm not too sure. A 1.2 x 0.6m tent is 0.72sqm and based on what I've managed to pull from such a space... The figures don't add up, perhaps if I were to do a scrog. I dunno. @Prom what's the best you've gotten so far in terms of grams per sqm? What has it worked out to? Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I'm not against autos, I feel they have their place. I've grown some and will grow more in future too. Please let us know the test results. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I believe its due to the fact that Ruderalis is not psychoactive and does not contain thc. So breeding with it will affect the traits and therefore the thc and other cannabinoids too. End of the day in order for the stain to be an auto, it needs to contain some Ruderalis and specifically the autoflowering trait. As far as I'm aware, that's generally the only trait a breeder wants from Ruderalis. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

It's genetic though, especially with cotelydons. It already contains the required nutrients for a while at that stage. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Hmm, I dunno man. Maintenance wise, I feel they're much of a muchness really. The biggest difference being that autos will start to flower by themselves. Take a photoperiod and flip it to flower early and results would be similar. You'd probably get higher thc content from the photos too and way more options available as well. Once plants are in flower maintenance mainly comes down to defol, but you don't have to. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

@Ill_Evan what they looking like today?

I've unfortunately stumbled upon a few of these boring lemony strains... @CreX you were literally bitching about this just the other day.

@Zen021 So firstly with an auto it will start to flower based in time, you need to baby them to ensure you get the best out of them. Any mistakes and it will be felt in your harvest. So too late to fix it now unfortunately. If they were "normal" seed, also called photoperiod seeds then a plan could possibly be made. As you have control over when the plant goes into flower. Also the more sun / light, the better. So if you're not growing indoors with proper lights then make sure you're plants are outside getting direct sunlight. As much as possible. I don't see why you'd want much river sand in your soil mix. Also 5L is a bit small, once again with autos anything which can stunt them is typically not a good idea. Repotting into a large pot can stunt a plant and for this reason a lot of people who grow autos like to start them in their final pot (I like to use 20L pots, even for autos). Grow shops are selling, all ecommerce is allowed now so you shouldn't have any issue purchasing equipment. If you feel you could do with some advice and guidance on what equipment is needed and what's a good deal and recommend etc. Then start a new thread and I'm sure you'll have many members helping you out. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I'd try rinse it with some hot soapy water and then I'd use to. Plastic does tend to retain smells, although I don't see it affecting your grow or the scent entering your grow. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

A few more months to go, although how much priority is this receiving now with bigger matters such as covid-19 taking the spotlight. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I still think this would be cool @420SA As said in my previous post, we could have some cool custom made badges or titles for the winners.

I reckon it could be either, could be a once off mutation or a mutation which has been bred into this strain (either on purpose or by mistake / luck). Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I'd also say the plant is likely going into flower now, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. Think of it like an auto this way, haha. If you give a photoperiod plant 12 hours of light from seedling it's around 4 weeks when it'll start to flower give or take. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk