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Aweh fellow florists, The ladies are putting on their show. Buds are swelling and stinking with goodness, despite the heavy rain and high rh. Lost a few girls to the "taxman" mentioned in earlier posts, got a new problem with small spiral snails "ring debarking" some plants-tested some vinegar/soap mix to no effect, now dusting with cinnamon. Don't like spraying stuff in flower, hopefully they'll pull through. Chopped some Bluecheese f1's this morning. Pics of Charlottes, Gorilla Glue, Bluecheese. Our climate on the north coast is unforgiving to say the least. Its like the weather wants to kill your plants.....4 days of thunderstorms and rain, high rh and the next day temps touching 50deg. A good test for any genetic abd the reason why you plant double and take extra clones, just in case. Cheers.

Howzit 420 growers, Dillipit at your service. i'm here because i'm done paying for good bud I want to start my own grow and reap the rewards nature intended for us. Belated 420 !

Aweh gromies, Happy 420 weekend. Herewith some organic outdoor buds.

Johan's Nutcracker day 49.

Didn't actually plan for them to get this big. Mother nature doing her thing...

I'd like to see a update on this Grow please Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Hello just got back into the growing scene, wishing everyone growing some happy cannadust

Hi all. I've been a stranger the last season but I'm back putting local genetics tk the test on the West Coast. Starting off strong with @Totemic and co. (Have a inclination @SkunkPharmwas involved) or other way around. Bobby's Widow x Sweet Cheese F1. Then dropped some @Bay Seeds Mythic Candy Autoflower feminized today.

Hi, Nice to meet you! I am the new from South Africa, as a hobby for home cannabis cultivation

Congratulations!!! @Bay Seeds I see your Maverick, Top Cheese & 5th Gen Fighter are on sale MarijuanaSA's website. South African Marijuana Seeds - Marijuana SA

@Bay SeedsMythic Candy Autoflower feminized ready for the jiffies

You see the spacing is tight with the auto which is grown outdoor with the sun. Where your indoor plants have large internodal spacing. This gives me reason to believe its a light issue. You mentioned you using a 8 year old blurple light. I would recommend getting a new light such as a LED quantum board. I have a 120w quantum board from Green Houston, next to my old 100w Mars Hydro 48 reflector in one tent. (70cm x 70cm) and they work great together. When looking for a quantum board always look for ones with Samsung diodes. Ill provide the link to the one I purchased. There are different sizes and versions. But any quantum board that uses Samsung diodes such as LM301H diodes will be excellent. https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/quantum-board-led-125w Depending on the size of your tent you might have to go larger or buy multiple. However if you just get one Quantum board, you can combine it with your old light.

Awesome training/presentation, Upside down Candelabra... A night foto with flash will reveal the jewels.

Aweh. Ladies are progressing well, flowers are looking sticky and dank.Tending this garden is its own reward, an olfactory assault/experience that is just next level, These strange flowers that intrigue us so... 1-2. Gorilla Glue bred off of a gift from @Mambawana. 3-6. Blue Cheese f1-Sativa...ish 7-10. Blue Cheese f1-indica...ish 11-12. Swazi 13-14. Blue Cheese f1 15-16. Charlottes Angel fem. One of 2 pheno's. @highchome, @PsyCLown Thanks for the meds.

Got branches hanging and ceiling fan on full tilt, temps around 22 degrees and RH hovering around 65%, not ideal, but humidity should start to drop in a couple of days (it's also been raining the last two nights in a row which doesn't help). Buds are rock hard and are stinking up the house, but I really need to invest in a dehumidifier as there is going to be a lot more bud to dry in the next few weeks!

Going to switch to Final Part now and give it another two weeks or so.

You could thin the mix out with coco and perlite to reduce the high N initially, but chances are good that you'll conversly have to supplement P, K and possibly micros during flower depending on your soil formulation. It's up to you.

Well, fun few weeks we had, me and the girls, but luckily after a few males 2 litle girls, a Runt and a Sativa dominant pheno emerged that, at this stage, is giving me the idea that quite a few more beans need to be popped. I do not have manny left but as soon as the mother room is up and running, they all going in for a propper pheno hunt and pollination session for some fresh beans. Added in some new testers for the collection of mothers I am planning to run. White Rhino, Franco's Lemon Cheese and Orange Velvet Underground. Receiving some White Wedding, Grape Diamonds and Humbolt's Freakshow cuts next week. The preparations for next season is starting in Ernst. Cuttings will veg till late winter and then be placed outside to flower for selection. LGO The only normal Girl in this round. This little one grew lile a cutting with offset internodes. This little guy topped himself at node one. Have allot of work with this strain. Will have to make some fresh beans, she's all over the show.

Depending on the age and stage of the plants in the 2lt bags. If in veg, transplant, give them 2 weeks, then go outdoor. Light hours on the north coast around 13hrs now. If you veg 16/8 or 14/10 technically they should flip to flower as soon as they go outside. I'd go minimum 20lt, the plants will use some of the available N during veg in the new bags, but plants need N throughout, just in different amounts.

I am also a victim of Magnesium deficiency in freedom farm classic. I have been using it for many many years but this is now my 3rd run that I am suffering with magnesium deficiency in freedom farm classic. I am going to water plain water at about 6.7 for now and see what happens Took a huge loss on my previous run my plants in veg tents using the same batch of soil is doing the same as my flower room I have another flowering tent using orgasoilux and those plants are fine.

Ah, I thought as much. Thanks for the input! I've only done a few indoor runs using General Hydroponics tripart salt based nutes, but never salts outdoors in soil/coco/pearlite. I was using the Biogrow range for a few years and then swapped over to the Pro Organic range and have always used molasses when growing organically. I just found that using molasses always made the buds extra sweet and sticky compared to times I didn't use it, even did a side by side comparison with some indoor clones. Regardless, I always like to flush heavy, even with organics as I like to get that fade in But the proof will be in the pudding!

Getting thiccc, frosty and stinky! RH has been high, hovering around 80%, there has also been some rain and wind, so making sure the lower sections are nicely defoliated. Pineapple Chunk and Jillybean will be done first as I'm just starting to see some trichomes turn amber, usually around this time I would stop feeding and start "flushing" with rainwater and molasses, usually for two weeks, and then just plain rainwater for a few days before harvest. Since I'm using salt based ferts, I'm not sure if it's a good idea to introduce molasses, I know some nutrients will be available immediately, but I have no idea what the soil microbe life is like.

The Ugly...

Aweh, the outdoor flowering season is upon us. Plenty of challenges along the way, our area recorded 53 deg yesterday, but the strongest ladies are soldiering on. Herewith....The Good.

Late update. Few weeks into flower now. Had a thrip issue so ordered some predatory mites as I can't spray anymore due to flower. +

Touch wood, I haven't needed to use anything this whole grow! (except giving the whole grow area a generous dusting of diatomaceous earth before planting seeds) Plants are healthy and full of predatory bugs; praying mantises, lynx spiders, jumping spiders, wolf spiders, and the occasional ladybird. I did apply quite a thick layer of mulch and keep any weeds out. I even saw a Western Cape leopard toad under one of the plants.

AK-01 from Anaconda Seeds (two phenos) Slurricane 7 from In House Genetics: Raspberry Cough (Nirvana Seeds) Jillybean (free gift)

Pineapple Chunk from Barney's Farm: Purple Haze from Green Smoke Room: Bubba Cheesecake from Seedsman: Chocolope from Barney’s Farm: (2 plants)

Howzit fellow growers, I recently went full rabbit hole on oxidation — and it's got me rethinking my entire approach to the flowering stage. We all obsess over stability: dialed-in VPD, 40-50% RH late flower, perfect airflow to keep mold at bay, no light leaks, consistent temps. That's table stakes for any serious home grow. But what if we're missing something bigger? What if we could actively combat oxidative stress while the buds are still developing on the plant, not just prevent it post-harvest? Why Oxidation Matters More Than You Think During Flowering Oxidation isn't just a curing/storage villain (where oxygen turns THC into sleepy CBN, kills terpenes, and makes buds harsh and brown). On the live plant, excessive oxygen exposure — combined with heat, light stress, or other factors — can accelerate the breakdown of cannabinoids and terpenes right in the trichomes. Free radicals build up, the plant's natural defenses get overwhelmed, and you end up with buds that look fire but lack that loud smell, potency, or bag appeal you were chasing. Most guides hammer home mold prevention (good airflow, lower RH), but they rarely dive into proactive ways to shield against oxidative degradation during those critical 8–10 weeks of bud swell. What Are Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS)? Explained Like You're 5 Okay, let's break this down super simple. Imagine your plant is like a busy little factory making energy from sunlight (photosynthesis) and breathing oxygen. Sometimes, tiny "sparks" fly off the machines — these are called Reactive Oxygen Species, or ROS for short. They're like angry little molecules (superoxide, hydrogen peroxide, hydroxyl radicals) that zoom around super fast. A few of these sparks are actually helpful — they act like alarm bells that wake up the plant's defenses when something's wrong (like too much heat or a bug attack). But if too many sparks build up (from stress like high temps, bad light, or poor environment), they start burning and damaging the factory parts: the trichomes, the THC, the yummy terpenes — basically turning your precious buds into something less awesome. It's like having a campfire: a little fire keeps you warm and cozy, but too many wild sparks can burn down the whole tent! The goal? Keep those sparks under control so your plant stays happy and your buds stay potent. The Stable Environment Is Key... But What Else? Stability is non-negotiable. But after digging deep, I'm convinced home growers have some under-explored tools to fight oxidation on the live plant: - Boosting the plant's own antioxidants — Think nutrient tweaks that support internal defenses (e.g., balanced micros like magnesium, zinc, or even sulfur-rich amendments that aid glutathione production). - Beneficial microbes — Introducing good bacteria (like certain PGPR strains from Bacillus or Pseudomonas) to the root zone or as inoculants. These little helpers can promote the plant's natural antioxidant systems, reduce stress signals, and help the plant handle oxidative pressure better — all while improving nutrient uptake and overall vigor during flower. - Environmental hacks — Slight CO2 enrichment can sometimes help displace excess O2 or support metabolism, but timing matters (dial it back late flower to let ripening happen). UV-B supplementation boosts resin but can increase stress — so pairing it with countermeasures could be interesting. - Stress minimization — Gentle defoliation to reduce exposed surfaces, strategic pruning for better airflow without shocking the plant, and avoiding extremes that spike reactive oxygen species (ROS). These aren't magic bullets, and most are experimental or niche. The science on live-plant oxidation in cannabis is still emerging (a lot of research focuses on post-harvest or general plant stress), but the logic tracks: reduce free radical damage → preserve more THC, CBD, terps → better end product. My Takeaway (So Far) I'm not throwing out my stable-environment playbook — that's still priority one. But I'm starting to experiment with small additions: tweaking feeds for antioxidant support, adding beneficial microbes early on, and paying closer attention to how light/heat interact with oxygen exposure. If you're a home grower chasing elite quality, this might be the next edge. It's not about reinventing the wheel; it's about adding a few smart layers of protection while the buds are forming. Have you gone down this rabbit hole? Tried any anti-oxidation tricks during flower, like microbial inoculants? Drop your thoughts/experiments in the comments — let's share notes and maybe uncover some gems together. Happy growing, stay frosty, and may your trichomes stay pristine! #HomeGrow #FloweringStage #Oxidation #TerpenePreservation #BeneficialMicrobes

hell all newbie grower here looking to learn and share thanks for having me

Hi hi I'm New here, I grow my own weed alone, LOL!!! I smoke my weed alone, I make lovely kookies with icing on top, I like to make own gummy bear sweeties and I eat them up by myself LOL!!! NOT FOR SALE

Remember autos don't like a lot of nitrogen and plant them in a big container from the start don't give them any stress only LST them the first 12 to 14 days is the most important if you mess up the plant might not have time to recover as it grows with age and not light cycles. But good luck show us some pics of your grow brother. And biltong and budz is one of the preferred choice here I've seen.

Yeah man, I grow mostly indoors and clone my own stuff, always end up with an extra that I just pop outside. No matter the time of the year I just let the plant do its thing. This gives me great perspective on phenotypical expression and how each "genetic" has many different expressions. On the same note of my one keeper that does better for me when flowering in warmer temps, I got another plant that does the exact opposite - warmer temps stunts bud development, it's like the plant doesn't like heat at all. Buds will mature way too soon, resin heads all turn amber, strats throwing nanners, plant wants to finish. The good thing is, when I harvest her during winter she doesn't throw out too much purple, cause to me that would be a sign to dump the plant. I seriously can't stand purple buds swell up like crazy, get very nice calyx stacks and the terpenes are loud as fuuuug.

Cheers for answer bud. I would never have been able to with so much info. Yes. Both those above mentioned strains was when I planted towards the end of outdoor season expecting to see some purple. Not because I wanted to fool people but because I wanted to look and learn. To be honest though, I'll leave the next late season grows until I can replace the shade cloth on my tunnel to plastic covering. As you mention, manipulation can perform wonders.

North America is a good market to watch, we usually follow, I think we are seeing the peak of our greenrush. Not all business people are greedy, just like not all Canadians or South Africans, sadly we have an ongoing pandemic called corruption. I hate to say this but tax is not a bad thing to regulate things.

Do you think South Africa will do the same or better or worse than Canada? The thing with South African guys the are to greedy so even if they make it legal for selling I bet there will still be people going the black market way for tax and I think that's what holds them back to legalize marijuana. I you know your business men are as honest as the guys in Canada then you can legalize marijuana.

Thanks a lot Chris - DM'd

I am busy building a community garden at a local coffee place. I hear what you mean, and it becomes overwhelming at times. Draw up a business plan, finances, go around to another nurseries to get ideas. One small step at a time.

Hi all, We had a few hot days in a row, 27-34c Celsius. I have been trying not to overwater. On thursday, 3 days ago i noticed leaves started looking strange, see below pic - i then followed with first introduction or nutes (atami bcuzz A + B soil at 1ml per L of each- i made a 20L BUCKET and watered each plant with roughly 3-4L the pots are 5gallon so watered under 25% of pot capacity.) Water ph 6.3-6.5 run off after first nutes given 6.5 - 6.7 24 days old Was i suppose to use 4L of the fert water when feeding or was i suppose to use 1L of the fert water and 2-3L of fresh water after? I suspect this is due to being over nutted.. when i provided nutes for the first time was when soil was on the dry side.

Hi guys, I'll try keep this short and quick: I've always been super happy with my bud after harvest; super dense and frosty, even the small wispy buds lower down will turn your brain to mush. But for some reason I have a persistent problem of the spaces between flower nodes stretching to eternity when I flower. I never see this issue during veg! I've attached some images, the first three being of my indoor photoperiod plants and the 4th being of my casual outdoor autoflower. You can clearly see the density of buds on the autoflower is significantly higher than the photoperiods and I swear I didn't do anything different between each of them! Indoor Strains: 2x OG Kush and 2x King Kong Days in flower: 14 days Light: 8 year old purple spectrum Mars Hydro 600w equivalent LED Light distance from canopy: Moved to around 35-40cm from canopy during flower Nutrients: Terra Aquatica 3 part (Micro, Grow, Bloom). And a dash of Diatomaceous Earth every feed for the Silica pH: Generally around 6-6.3 Growing Medium: Freedom Farms 70/30 Coco Perlite Buffered Outdoor Strain: Zkittles Auto Days in flower: No idea to be honest I wasn't paying that much attention to this plant Light: Good old fashioned sun Amount of light: I actively move the plant around to chase the sun as much as possible. Nutrients: Exactly the same as above but more diluted as you can see some burn going on there pH: As above. Growing Medium: Freedom Farms 70/30 Coco Perlite Buffered

What a problem to have... Stinky flowers are a good sign.

https://www.loudcpt.co.za/shop/reversa-privada-sts-reversal-spray-100ml/

There is no need for molasses, since it main purpose is to feed the microbes in your soil. However since you are using salt based nutrients you have basically killed all your microbes off so I would just continue with your nutrients then do a heavy flush last week or two. You don't want to be smoking bud with synthetic fertilizer still present. Happy growing

Just a quick update, I spoke to the manufacturer of the nutrients and he advised I shouldn't use any molasses and I should just push through with the salts until a week before harvest, so I'll do just that! The Pineapple Chunk and Jillybean will be up for harvest first, probably in the next 10 days or so, so I gave them their last dose of bloom nutrients before I flush. The sativas are still taking their sweet time, but getting thicker and still stretching, the one Chocolope actually ended up hitting the ceiling of the shade cloth so I tied it down a bit. The wind has been insane the last few days, so I had to do some extra tying up, but all good.

The guys from Marijuana SA sent in a sample of the Freedom Farms Classic for testing a few years ago, there's a Youtube video on it. But most interesting from the results was the low calcium levels in relation to other elements, not that there wasn't calcium present, but just not very balanced. I've been following a few of your threads about your use of BioBizz and Freedom Farms, as you seem to have that down. I might pop you a DM if you don't mind, you seem to be nailing it. Feels the same from my side. It's almost as though regular feeding is creating an additional imbalance where some elements are being uptaken while others are locked out. Picked up some new bags recently, so will see if anything is different. I don't want to rule out human error on my side though and throw full blame on FF - it just feels different to work with, and not behaving like I'm used to after all these years.

- I've never been a fan of top dressing for this reason, unless you top dressing with a fertilizer that can be broken down by water and leech into the soil (dry amendment fertilizer). When it comes to things like Kelp meal, bone meal and crushed Malted barley, they take time for the microbes to break them down. So I would add them to the soil in the beginning when I was mixing the soil for the plant. I find the trick to organics is to work 2 weeks ahead of where your plant are. So if I'm going to flip to flower in two weeks time, I already start with the organic material needed for Phosphorous and Potassium to give it 2 weeks to at least start breaking down. However, keep in mind, just because the raw material exist in the soil, doesn't mean the plant will use it or it will affect the plant. An example of this is the kelp and bone meal, you can add it to the soil in the beginning and let the microbes do their thing, When you flip to flower, those broken down nutrients will then be instantly available to the plant when it wants it. Crushed Barley needs to be worked into the soil in the beginning, when it gets wet it will build out a mycelium network throughout your soil and feed your microbes. - I answered your Environoc question in the other thread. It won't hard the plant if you do it throughout flower, it's just not needed as it's a waste. - I have never found a use for a compost tea, I prefer to use VermiPure Tea (https://hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/umoja-organics-vermipure-worm-tea/) and Environoc 401 instead for the microbe loading. Then normal nutrients for the other NPK stuff. If you looking to do organics on the cheap, try out the Bud Juice nutrient range, I'm busy using it at the moment on a grow and its seems really good for something you only give once a week.

So it can be used throughout the grow, but also depends on how long you vegging your plant for. However, Dirty Hands do have a nutrient feeding schedule for Orgasoilux soil if you want to add nutrients, which I have attached for you. The feeding works out really cheap as you don't use very much of the nutrients at all. You buy these nutrients here - https://jamiesgardenshop.co.za/product-category/organic-garden-products/organic-fertilisers/liquid-organic-fertilizers/ I've grown using their nutrients before and have had great results. Organic Liquid Feeding Program (3).pdf

ahoy, just a few past experiences from seed Peyote purple- green pheno, reported to be a isolated pheno of bubba kush, from cannabiogen seeds

Hiya @Cannabist, and other members reading this thread, not directed at @Cannabistalone... Perspective. From the consumers point of view now. We paid for a premium product, we expect one. Most of us have honour so we don't sit around plotting to rob seed banks, ja those arse holes do exist, I accept that, but then you have to accept that there are sum dodgy dealers/seedbanks/resellers? I think the point is this, imagine if they did replace the OPs seeds, then he would be here giving a shout out to these guys and others like myself would go check them out...A happy customer will send you other prospects. Also forums like this exist, so that WE can all help each other learn...why make the mistake yourself, rather learn from those more wiser than you, and nothing can beat first hand experience, good and bad... What ever happened to customer care? Ps, if I'm not mistaken the OP had a similar experience but was replaced by fast buds themselves, I stand corrected on this. That's what I call customer ❤ Personally I will only ever buy seeds that come in breeder packs, directly from the breeder, sealed with a tracking number from the breeder that you can go verify for yourself online, just like those from @Sacred Seeds, Merlin u rock man! See thats me giving a shout out to these okes, customer care was tops! But it was @Bakstein420 who told me about sacred seeds and so on and so on and it was @Stinger96 who told me about the forum in the first place, and so on and so on..