Leaderboard

Aweh fellow florists, The ladies are putting on their show. Buds are swelling and stinking with goodness, despite the heavy rain and high rh. Lost a few girls to the "taxman" mentioned in earlier posts, got a new problem with small spiral snails "ring debarking" some plants-tested some vinegar/soap mix to no effect, now dusting with cinnamon. Don't like spraying stuff in flower, hopefully they'll pull through. Chopped some Bluecheese f1's this morning. Pics of Charlottes, Gorilla Glue, Bluecheese. Our climate on the north coast is unforgiving to say the least. Its like the weather wants to kill your plants.....4 days of thunderstorms and rain, high rh and the next day temps touching 50deg. A good test for any genetic abd the reason why you plant double and take extra clones, just in case. Cheers.

Howzit 420 growers, Dillipit at your service. i'm here because i'm done paying for good bud I want to start my own grow and reap the rewards nature intended for us. Belated 420 !

Aweh gromies, Happy 420 weekend. Herewith some organic outdoor buds.

Johan's Nutcracker day 49.

Didn't actually plan for them to get this big. Mother nature doing her thing...

I'd like to see a update on this Grow please Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Hey everyone, I’m just getting started and trying to figure out a simple but effective setup for my first grow. There’s a lot of information out there and it’s honestly a bit overwhelming at the beginning. I’m not looking for anything too advanced yet — just something reliable to learn the basics properly. What would you recommend as a good beginner-friendly setup in terms of lighting, ventilation, and overall environment? Also, are there any common mistakes beginners should avoid early on? Appreciate any tips

Hello just got back into the growing scene, wishing everyone growing some happy cannadust

Hi all. I've been a stranger the last season but I'm back putting local genetics tk the test on the West Coast. Starting off strong with @Totemic and co. (Have a inclination @SkunkPharmwas involved) or other way around. Bobby's Widow x Sweet Cheese F1. Then dropped some @Bay Seeds Mythic Candy Autoflower feminized today.

Hi, Nice to meet you! I am the new from South Africa, as a hobby for home cannabis cultivation

Congratulations!!! @Bay Seeds I see your Maverick, Top Cheese & 5th Gen Fighter are on sale MarijuanaSA's website. South African Marijuana Seeds - Marijuana SA

@Bay SeedsMythic Candy Autoflower feminized ready for the jiffies

You see the spacing is tight with the auto which is grown outdoor with the sun. Where your indoor plants have large internodal spacing. This gives me reason to believe its a light issue. You mentioned you using a 8 year old blurple light. I would recommend getting a new light such as a LED quantum board. I have a 120w quantum board from Green Houston, next to my old 100w Mars Hydro 48 reflector in one tent. (70cm x 70cm) and they work great together. When looking for a quantum board always look for ones with Samsung diodes. Ill provide the link to the one I purchased. There are different sizes and versions. But any quantum board that uses Samsung diodes such as LM301H diodes will be excellent. https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/quantum-board-led-125w Depending on the size of your tent you might have to go larger or buy multiple. However if you just get one Quantum board, you can combine it with your old light.

Awesome training/presentation, Upside down Candelabra... A night foto with flash will reveal the jewels.

Aweh. Ladies are progressing well, flowers are looking sticky and dank.Tending this garden is its own reward, an olfactory assault/experience that is just next level, These strange flowers that intrigue us so... 1-2. Gorilla Glue bred off of a gift from @Mambawana. 3-6. Blue Cheese f1-Sativa...ish 7-10. Blue Cheese f1-indica...ish 11-12. Swazi 13-14. Blue Cheese f1 15-16. Charlottes Angel fem. One of 2 pheno's. @highchome, @PsyCLown Thanks for the meds.

Got branches hanging and ceiling fan on full tilt, temps around 22 degrees and RH hovering around 65%, not ideal, but humidity should start to drop in a couple of days (it's also been raining the last two nights in a row which doesn't help). Buds are rock hard and are stinking up the house, but I really need to invest in a dehumidifier as there is going to be a lot more bud to dry in the next few weeks!

Going to switch to Final Part now and give it another two weeks or so.

You could thin the mix out with coco and perlite to reduce the high N initially, but chances are good that you'll conversly have to supplement P, K and possibly micros during flower depending on your soil formulation. It's up to you.

Well, fun few weeks we had, me and the girls, but luckily after a few males 2 litle girls, a Runt and a Sativa dominant pheno emerged that, at this stage, is giving me the idea that quite a few more beans need to be popped. I do not have manny left but as soon as the mother room is up and running, they all going in for a propper pheno hunt and pollination session for some fresh beans. Added in some new testers for the collection of mothers I am planning to run. White Rhino, Franco's Lemon Cheese and Orange Velvet Underground. Receiving some White Wedding, Grape Diamonds and Humbolt's Freakshow cuts next week. The preparations for next season is starting in Ernst. Cuttings will veg till late winter and then be placed outside to flower for selection. LGO The only normal Girl in this round. This little one grew lile a cutting with offset internodes. This little guy topped himself at node one. Have allot of work with this strain. Will have to make some fresh beans, she's all over the show.

Depending on the age and stage of the plants in the 2lt bags. If in veg, transplant, give them 2 weeks, then go outdoor. Light hours on the north coast around 13hrs now. If you veg 16/8 or 14/10 technically they should flip to flower as soon as they go outside. I'd go minimum 20lt, the plants will use some of the available N during veg in the new bags, but plants need N throughout, just in different amounts.

I am also a victim of Magnesium deficiency in freedom farm classic. I have been using it for many many years but this is now my 3rd run that I am suffering with magnesium deficiency in freedom farm classic. I am going to water plain water at about 6.7 for now and see what happens Took a huge loss on my previous run my plants in veg tents using the same batch of soil is doing the same as my flower room I have another flowering tent using orgasoilux and those plants are fine.

Ah, I thought as much. Thanks for the input! I've only done a few indoor runs using General Hydroponics tripart salt based nutes, but never salts outdoors in soil/coco/pearlite. I was using the Biogrow range for a few years and then swapped over to the Pro Organic range and have always used molasses when growing organically. I just found that using molasses always made the buds extra sweet and sticky compared to times I didn't use it, even did a side by side comparison with some indoor clones. Regardless, I always like to flush heavy, even with organics as I like to get that fade in But the proof will be in the pudding!

Getting thiccc, frosty and stinky! RH has been high, hovering around 80%, there has also been some rain and wind, so making sure the lower sections are nicely defoliated. Pineapple Chunk and Jillybean will be done first as I'm just starting to see some trichomes turn amber, usually around this time I would stop feeding and start "flushing" with rainwater and molasses, usually for two weeks, and then just plain rainwater for a few days before harvest. Since I'm using salt based ferts, I'm not sure if it's a good idea to introduce molasses, I know some nutrients will be available immediately, but I have no idea what the soil microbe life is like.

The Ugly...

Aweh, the outdoor flowering season is upon us. Plenty of challenges along the way, our area recorded 53 deg yesterday, but the strongest ladies are soldiering on. Herewith....The Good.

Late update. Few weeks into flower now. Had a thrip issue so ordered some predatory mites as I can't spray anymore due to flower. +

Touch wood, I haven't needed to use anything this whole grow! (except giving the whole grow area a generous dusting of diatomaceous earth before planting seeds) Plants are healthy and full of predatory bugs; praying mantises, lynx spiders, jumping spiders, wolf spiders, and the occasional ladybird. I did apply quite a thick layer of mulch and keep any weeds out. I even saw a Western Cape leopard toad under one of the plants.

AK-01 from Anaconda Seeds (two phenos) Slurricane 7 from In House Genetics: Raspberry Cough (Nirvana Seeds) Jillybean (free gift)

Pineapple Chunk from Barney's Farm: Purple Haze from Green Smoke Room: Bubba Cheesecake from Seedsman: Chocolope from Barney’s Farm: (2 plants)

Hi folks, Trying to start an indoor grow using clay balls and ro water!. Do I need to add calmag to ro water for germination in Rockwall cubes that are already in their final position surrounded by clay balls?. I buffered the balls with 5.8ph ro water and calmag before installation but have not added any calmag since!. It's been 6 days since planting and still no show!. I understand that they may need a few more days yet but wonder if I should add calmag to the water or leave until they sprout .......... assuming they do?. I've germinated using rock wool, 5.8ph RO water (with no calmag) before with no problems,.........however they where in a propergater!. Any thoughts or advice much appreciated as always.... Cheers...

Howzit fellow growers, I recently went full rabbit hole on oxidation — and it's got me rethinking my entire approach to the flowering stage. We all obsess over stability: dialed-in VPD, 40-50% RH late flower, perfect airflow to keep mold at bay, no light leaks, consistent temps. That's table stakes for any serious home grow. But what if we're missing something bigger? What if we could actively combat oxidative stress while the buds are still developing on the plant, not just prevent it post-harvest? Why Oxidation Matters More Than You Think During Flowering Oxidation isn't just a curing/storage villain (where oxygen turns THC into sleepy CBN, kills terpenes, and makes buds harsh and brown). On the live plant, excessive oxygen exposure — combined with heat, light stress, or other factors — can accelerate the breakdown of cannabinoids and terpenes right in the trichomes. Free radicals build up, the plant's natural defenses get overwhelmed, and you end up with buds that look fire but lack that loud smell, potency, or bag appeal you were chasing. Most guides hammer home mold prevention (good airflow, lower RH), but they rarely dive into proactive ways to shield against oxidative degradation during those critical 8–10 weeks of bud swell. What Are Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS)? Explained Like You're 5 Okay, let's break this down super simple. Imagine your plant is like a busy little factory making energy from sunlight (photosynthesis) and breathing oxygen. Sometimes, tiny "sparks" fly off the machines — these are called Reactive Oxygen Species, or ROS for short. They're like angry little molecules (superoxide, hydrogen peroxide, hydroxyl radicals) that zoom around super fast. A few of these sparks are actually helpful — they act like alarm bells that wake up the plant's defenses when something's wrong (like too much heat or a bug attack). But if too many sparks build up (from stress like high temps, bad light, or poor environment), they start burning and damaging the factory parts: the trichomes, the THC, the yummy terpenes — basically turning your precious buds into something less awesome. It's like having a campfire: a little fire keeps you warm and cozy, but too many wild sparks can burn down the whole tent! The goal? Keep those sparks under control so your plant stays happy and your buds stay potent. The Stable Environment Is Key... But What Else? Stability is non-negotiable. But after digging deep, I'm convinced home growers have some under-explored tools to fight oxidation on the live plant: - Boosting the plant's own antioxidants — Think nutrient tweaks that support internal defenses (e.g., balanced micros like magnesium, zinc, or even sulfur-rich amendments that aid glutathione production). - Beneficial microbes — Introducing good bacteria (like certain PGPR strains from Bacillus or Pseudomonas) to the root zone or as inoculants. These little helpers can promote the plant's natural antioxidant systems, reduce stress signals, and help the plant handle oxidative pressure better — all while improving nutrient uptake and overall vigor during flower. - Environmental hacks — Slight CO2 enrichment can sometimes help displace excess O2 or support metabolism, but timing matters (dial it back late flower to let ripening happen). UV-B supplementation boosts resin but can increase stress — so pairing it with countermeasures could be interesting. - Stress minimization — Gentle defoliation to reduce exposed surfaces, strategic pruning for better airflow without shocking the plant, and avoiding extremes that spike reactive oxygen species (ROS). These aren't magic bullets, and most are experimental or niche. The science on live-plant oxidation in cannabis is still emerging (a lot of research focuses on post-harvest or general plant stress), but the logic tracks: reduce free radical damage → preserve more THC, CBD, terps → better end product. My Takeaway (So Far) I'm not throwing out my stable-environment playbook — that's still priority one. But I'm starting to experiment with small additions: tweaking feeds for antioxidant support, adding beneficial microbes early on, and paying closer attention to how light/heat interact with oxygen exposure. If you're a home grower chasing elite quality, this might be the next edge. It's not about reinventing the wheel; it's about adding a few smart layers of protection while the buds are forming. Have you gone down this rabbit hole? Tried any anti-oxidation tricks during flower, like microbial inoculants? Drop your thoughts/experiments in the comments — let's share notes and maybe uncover some gems together. Happy growing, stay frosty, and may your trichomes stay pristine! #HomeGrow #FloweringStage #Oxidation #TerpenePreservation #BeneficialMicrobes

This stuff has proven effective for me and can be used during flower.

superb grow! phat oval grenade buds! ahh they gonna be popping specimens minds into far out space man.

I forgot to ask how do you know what's a stud male and a stud female is it the one that pops and grow the fastest or because some start slow and next thing they past the early ones. That's something I'm struggling with selection that's my problem and it's the most important part I think.

Brother. I think your approach here is a bit willy nilly. What you're talking about is just a charactaristic. I understand hunting a specific strain, but in this case it doesn't make a lot of sense. Purple weed is not a specific strain. Even a plant that throws out only green buds can be manipulated to produce anthocyanins (the purple) through temperatures and what not. I've got a keeper cut here that I've been growing for years, if I harvest her during winter the buds are all purple, if I harvest her in summer the buds are all green. That's only scratching the surface, cause now we get into the scientific part of it. Alleles. Genetics. Purple buds can be genetic a genetic trait, where as some plants may never produce anthocyanins no matter what you do, some others may throw out purple without any manipulation. Now take that plant, produce seeds from it and you'll end up with a roughly 50/50 split between genetic codes. Here's a bit of a introduction to breeding and how purple/green is a selective trait when breeding genetics. This will be something called "Phenotypes". You will often hear seasoned growers talk about phenos and "clone only" varieties. Every time you pop a seed you get different phenotype. This means your "XYZ" strain from seed wont look the same as your buddies seed from the exact same strain. In fact, buy a pack of 10 seeds, pop them all and let them teach you about phenotypical expression. Now we get into plant plasticity. The ability of a plant to change it's phenotypical expressions in response to different environments. In a way it comes back to the plant being manipulated in order to get different expressions of the same genetic. This means, even if you do get the exact clone from the mother you're talking about, chances are great that you'll end up with something looking a bit different than what you where hoping for, cause you're growing in a completely different environment than the person who grew it you saw the photos of. Geographically different, environmentally different, hight above sea level differs, temp / humidity / time of year all these factor come into play. If you looking for something purple just buy a whole bunch of good seeds from reputable breeder of strains that are well known to throw out purple colour easily and work your way through them. You'll see what I'm talking about. Some aren't even gona go purple at all. Personally, I avoid any purple with a firey passion. Purple weed tastes horrible, ruins the terpene profile as 99,99% of weed that turns purple has a similar taste. It's something you learn through time, the same strains that turn purple, if you can manipulate them and keep them green you end up with a completely different bud, crazy full terpene profile. As anthocyanin is a compound on its own it's no wonder it has impact on the taste, if it's present to the eyes it'll be present to the taste buds when consuming. Purple weed is only for instagram / photos / bag appeal for sellers. It's a selling point, a gimmick.

Hi guys, I'll try keep this short and quick: I've always been super happy with my bud after harvest; super dense and frosty, even the small wispy buds lower down will turn your brain to mush. But for some reason I have a persistent problem of the spaces between flower nodes stretching to eternity when I flower. I never see this issue during veg! I've attached some images, the first three being of my indoor photoperiod plants and the 4th being of my casual outdoor autoflower. You can clearly see the density of buds on the autoflower is significantly higher than the photoperiods and I swear I didn't do anything different between each of them! Indoor Strains: 2x OG Kush and 2x King Kong Days in flower: 14 days Light: 8 year old purple spectrum Mars Hydro 600w equivalent LED Light distance from canopy: Moved to around 35-40cm from canopy during flower Nutrients: Terra Aquatica 3 part (Micro, Grow, Bloom). And a dash of Diatomaceous Earth every feed for the Silica pH: Generally around 6-6.3 Growing Medium: Freedom Farms 70/30 Coco Perlite Buffered Outdoor Strain: Zkittles Auto Days in flower: No idea to be honest I wasn't paying that much attention to this plant Light: Good old fashioned sun Amount of light: I actively move the plant around to chase the sun as much as possible. Nutrients: Exactly the same as above but more diluted as you can see some burn going on there pH: As above. Growing Medium: Freedom Farms 70/30 Coco Perlite Buffered

I’m looking for some advice on something I’ve never done before. I’ve started some feminized Indicas indoors and plan on moving them outdoors to flower as electricity cost is too high for me to complete the grow indoors.So right now the plants are in 2 liter fabric bags with Orgasoilux super soil and will be transplanted to either 15 or 20 liter fabric bags and given supplemental lighting to extend the veg period by a week or so. My question is this.Since I will be transplanting into a much bigger volume of fresh soil and flowering quite soon afterwards,won’t the soil have too much Nitrogen for flowering?The reason I ask this is because much of the available N will not have been ‘used up’ by the time flowering is initiated.I should add that this soil has been sitting unused in the bags since my last outdoor grow 15 months ago so nutrients have probably broken down nicely by now. Maybe I’m overthinking this I don’t know!

150 degrees Celsius THC should be vaporized, some Terpines need more heat, but just a "bit" more. 150 is reached rather quick, and don't use oil, use "Wax" or "Honey". Oil extractions are old tech and in general remove more as just the THC (stuff you don't want to smoke and changes taste to more unfriendly).. hence they are dark to black. Proper extract looks like honey, milky (depends a bit on harvest time of the material). You only wash off the trichomes and leave the chlorophyll and nutrients in the material, so harvest time gives the color (clear: to early, white-ish: upper effects, reddish color: coucher) . Store it dark and cold for long term and after 9 months THC starts to decompose very slowly. I had 3 years cured weed and still got a good buzz from it. Hope that helped. ^^

Plants are getting thick and stinky! I can smell them from the other side of the property lol. Slowly adjusting pH to 6.1 - 6.2 for flower. I need to do some defoliation and tie up some of the lower branches.

I have used Bio-Bizz Bloom in previous grows and I have Dirty hands inc Bio-Phos. This time around I wanted to try the topdressing, but now since you have advised against it, do you think Ill be better off going back to the liquid nutrients feedings for flower? I use a 30litre pot. I fill the bottom half with Orgasoilux and the top half with Freedom Farms soil. I veg for 2 months and all I add is microbes. The plant is always healthy. Do you believe I will require flower nutrients to get me through to harvest? Do you think all my nutrients in the living soil would be depleted? I'm just concerned my soil wont have enough P and K for flowering, especially if I don't top dress. In your experience is Biobizz the best liquid flower nutrient, and if you don't mind sharing, how often do you apply it? Some people use it every watering where others use it once a week. From my understanding Bio Bizz bloom is just molasses and kelp? Wouldn't compost teas and molasses feedings have the same effect? Thanks for your help! The image below is my previous grow during veg and flower. One plant trained in a 40litre pot using freedom farms and Orgasoilux. I have a small mars hydro tent with a 120w QB from Green Houston and a mars hydro 48 reflector (blurple old tech) tents width and length is 70cm x 70cm. During flower for this grow I used Bio-Phos by Dirty hands inc. I was not sure if I provided enough nutrients through the flowering phase. Roughly flowered 8 weeks. I couldn't tell if this was its natural fade or if I could have pumped up the nutes do get denser and bigger buds

She finished wonderful, but I'm doing a second round and it's going even better!

Finally got on marijuanasa, very happy day.

More like Baeseeds! I see Bayseeds on many of the local seed banks.

It does not look like PM

Could be too much Potassium (causing Cal-Mag as well as Zinc and Iron deficiencies) or too little Nitrogen. Those are weird hours for a Photo, so who really knows, would be great to know PH of the substrate. Either way, first thought is to defoliate, maybe last watering to flush properly and harvest.

I've been using AgriSil K50 for the first time and so far so good. Managed to revitalise some plants after transplant using it. pH was pretty high though and they recommend not mixing with any other nutrients when using it. I managed to pH the solution quite easily and used it initially as a foliar spray. I will do a soil drench with it in a week or so.

That plant seems to be trying to finish fading naturally, But also keep in mind that if you're giving a potted plant a N dominant feed during flower you would promote leafy growth. Have seen flowering plants with more leaves than bud due to this. As we get closer to the winter solstice you're going to start seeing funny things as they technically shouldn't be growing/flowering naturally now-limits being pushed and all that. Some of our outdoor girls also showing a bit of foxtailing, later on the plants will want to start revegging, so you'll have to decide how far you want to push them. Some plants might finish flowering, others will want to start revegging, it will be up to you as the grower to recognize the signs and decide if you want to harvest or let the plant reveg.

A few last pics , huge rains coming Monday night so the plants coming down Monday before it starts