By wanna be dagga kop
So my leaves are going light green and bottom fan leaves are turning yellow. Is this normal during flower? I know fade is normal but I'm not sure on leaves going full yellow and dying out. I'm going into week 7 of flower tomorrow. First photo period plant in flower so I'm new to this whole process.
Would love some advice from an experienced indoor grower.
For the past year I have been growing cannabis indoors using a Mars Hydro tent ( 80cm x 80cm x 160cm) with the mars hydro 48 reflector led light. ( bought the combo and light is 100w blurple led) I've gotten good grows however I felt like I wasn't getting enough light coverage and intensity during the later phases of my growth.
Recently I bought myself a 120w quantum board, which has a HLG meanwell driver and Samsung lm301h diodes. There is also a dimmer attached to the quantum board.
I would like to know if I should start off the grow with both lights on? Or should I start off the grow with the mars hydro and then turn on the quantum board when the plant hits veg stage.
Was thinking of starting off the grow with both lights on (Mars hydro 48 reflector + 120w quantum board) and dimming the quantum board to around 50%.
Would really like some advice, not sure if I should be dimming the quantum board at all? Am I safe to run both lights at full strength? Should I only go full strength with the 120w quantum board for flowering? Please help P. S with regards to distance of both lights, they are maxed out at the top of the grow tent and I can't raise them anymore. Plan on growing one single photo period and vegging it out to fill the tent before flipping to flower. Will include photos of lights and tent
Thanks guys happy growing🙏🏻
Hello ladies and gentlesmokers!
Just a quick one here.
If I have an indoor growing tent spanning 1m (length) x 1m (width)...
1) What wattage light will I need to cover the entire area effectively (especially the flowering stage), for highest yield?
2) How many plants should I grow in order to cover the whole 1m squared area, again for highest yield?
3) Should I get one big light (e.g. 600W (or whatever the efficient wattage is for a 1m x 1m area)), or two smaller lights (e.g. 2 x 300W) for the 1m squared grow space. [This question mainly has to do with PAR value distribution... The way I understand it, it may be better to get 2 smaller lights in order to spread the light intensity more evenly across the growing medium in order for the entire space to get a high average PAR intensity and not only the middle... Or won't it really matter as a 600W lamp (for example) will be capable enough to get a high enough average PAR distribution throughout the 1m x 1m grow space?
All advice will be greatly appreciated!
Howdy folks, first post here, been lurking for a bit, not really one for introducing myself and also haven't been on a local grow forum since BelowTheLion had a grow forum...so.....eh...howzit👊.
Recently run into some issues with root aphids, so thought it appropriate to communicate with local communities in order to see what methods people have used in the past to treat infestations, as well as share my experiences.
* Currently Day 25 of Flower at posting(11/04/2019)
Mars Grow Tent(Total Grow Space - 2.4mx1.2mx2m) 1 x Extractor(700m3/hr - 11.67m3/minute) - Negative Pressure 600w HID(Sunmaster - Dual Spectrum [Flowering Period Only]) 2 x 45l D.W.C Reservoirs 2 Plants per res.(125mm Net Pots with Hydrotron/LECA) ScroGged(Utilised Grow Space - 1mx1.4m) Strain:
4 x Green House Seed Co. A.M.S.(Identical Cuts)
For the record, I had some how allowed myself to be fooled by the idea that subterranean pests wouldn't really be a factor in hydroponics, especially Deep Water Culture, but boy was i mistaken, so please, don't fool yourselves with this idea guys.
If anything, in my resulting opinion, the hydroponic environment can actually be more conducive to certain pests growth when comapred with its media/soil counterparts, however, on the flip side, much like dealing with nutrient burns or P.H. issues, hydroponic systems have a greater potential for fast recover.(*Provided you are able to identify the issue/infestation early enough.)
In hind sight, I can easily say that the first sign of my infestation actually started showing a little over a week ago, however I would only come to realise this 3 days ago.
It started with me waking up to finding a mass of dead fliers on my tent floor, which I had simply assumed were just miggies trying to get to my light and moved on, however I would soon realise that these were actually the winged adults of an aphid infestation.
I only realised the true issue when it came to nute change time, which is when I discovered a rather established Root Aphid infestation when going to siphon my reservoirs.
*This is when Hydrogen Peroxide(H2O2) becomes your next best friend.
Day 1: Sprayed with Ludwigs Insect Spray +. Flushed reservoirs with fresh water and tried to physically remove and wash off any visible aphids as much as possible. Filled reservoirs with P.H. balanced water and added 12ml(30% H2O2[Clicks - 30 Vol.]) per resivour. Only water/circulation pump running - aeration turned off to potentially try reduce H2O2 reduction to H2O. Day 2: Sprayed with Ludwigs Insect Spray +. Added 5ml(30% H2O2[Clicks - 30 Vol.]) to each reservoir. Day 3: Flushed reservoirs with fresh water and tried to physically remove and wash off any visible aphid debris as much as possible - can clearly see that the infestation is not thriving like it was. Added normal flowering nute mix Aerators back on(*System to run as normal) I definitely feel that my initial knock of the infestation has been successful, however it is crucial that I ensure that I keep on top of this infestation by inspecting my rootzone multiple times a day when possible as well as spraying Ludwigs Insect Spray + to ensure that any crawling/flying aphids are exterminated and unable to continue their life cycle.(I have had great success with Ludwigs Insect Spray + for canopy/foliage pests).
If I see any signs of the root aphids getting a grip again, I will repeat the steps from day 1 and 2(H2O2 Volume to be determined).
*Yellow fly paper would also be extremely beneficial at reducing winged flier survival success rate
*It is crucial that anyone reading this post realises that these are my experiences with a Deep Water Culture Hydroponic system, and that if you encounter root aphids in a soil-type medium, H2O2 will destroy any organic organisms in your medium, if at a strong enough concentration, beneficial organism or not. Ensure that you consider this and research accordingly before taking this as word.
*Please also realise that the effects of root aphids will most likely show as a nutrient deficiency first, unless the rootzone infestation is noticed before hand by the grower.
Any experiences or input would be much appreciated - substantiated or opinionated <3.