Jump to content

Diary Complete Royal Gorilla and Grandaddy Purple Grow


Ill_Evan

Recommended Posts

Capture.JPG.99b1fc1e8e47722376089a6ba443bcf2.JPG

..and we are back ere'body! 

With a bit of revision and some lessons learnt from the last incomplete grow, I am on the way with Royal Gorilla as well as a Grandaddy Purple. 

Royal Queen Seeds - Royal Gorilla

Capture1.JPG.0d96ef285f47f3525f66d6c10a9cc81c.JPG

Green Smoke Room Seeds - Gran Daddy Purple

Capture3.JPG.4014bd818d0391889cf988afcdda4fc4.JPG

The plan is to ditch the scrog idea from last time. It's such a mission when coupled with DWC, which I am going to keep, but instead of 15L cooler box reservoirs I am going big with 30L cooler box reservoirs. This should assist in flowering with not having to fill my reses every day..maybe now every 2-3 days. 

So in order to maximise yield minus the scrog, I'll do an 8 way manifold by topping each plant a total of three times and using low stress training to get as much spread as possible. 

The Gran Daddy Purple has a shorter flowering time than the Royal Gorilla, this will need to be kept in mind closer to the end of flowering. There is a possibility it will need to be harvested sooner than the Royal Gorilla. I do not want to sacrifice either to a shorter or longer harvest period than necessary. Each plant will be harvested when either is ready in their own time. 

Beginning the veg stage now, I intend to use the coming colder months closer to flowering to induce as much colour in the GDP as possible, genetics be willing. 

The Setup

  • 80x80x180 Grow Tent
  • 250W Quantum Board with Potentiometer and Current/Voltage Reader
  • 2 x 30L DIY DWC 
  • Air pump + Air Stones
  • Clip Fan
  • Sonoff TH16 Wifi Switch + Temp/Humidity Sensor 

I have connected a Sonoff switch to the exhaust system which acts as a temp/humidity reader and can be used to automate the exhaust to operate depending on temp/humidity perimeters if need be. The device plus the sensor cost me R480.

20200315_093035.thumb.jpg.1a538cea414b180735e8cdf8d09484a2.jpg 20200315_093537.thumb.jpg.812a0855aea9efa4dfc80f573d96838f.jpg 

20200315_093051_HDR.thumb.jpg.018dfbea4fcd26f7fcb0b270cb0f86d9.jpg 20200315_093137.thumb.jpg.fd5b28c210c4f3f5e8ea21f356d833a3.jpg Screenshot_2020-03-15-12-26-57.thumb.png.4b62e1f740639f201d336253273f841a.png

 

First Few Weeks of Veg

20200224_192028_HDR.thumb.jpg.4af7a5127eafa0b0544304b4177132b8.jpg 20200224_192037.thumb.jpg.81ed5227819052fd6698f206ae2f58b6.jpg

20200224_192054.thumb.jpg.6d4454d5cd46639b370f1fe861c8e5b7.jpg 20200227_180843_HDR.thumb.jpg.54557f9de7b81bc0c3f3d1009ee7f86c.jpg

20200227_180913_HDR.thumb.jpg.3b88c5d4f8ff444204ce4c6b2680cf75.jpg 20200315_091717_HDR.thumb.jpg.91a83fd62e93f096807f63835e8d1b53.jpg

20200315_091721_HDR.thumb.jpg.4c2d22812f6f5d536b79356de8dc2e8e.jpg 20200315_093019_HDR.thumb.jpg.3e3311646fdded60f5851b28e557935b.jpg

 

Plant on the left is Royal Gorilla, plant on the right is GDP. 

Will update at major milestones 🤙

Edited by Ill_Evan
  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I plan to top in-between nodes 3 and 4. I want to grow out the 3rd node on each plant as the main stems, and then do further toppings to get a total of 8 main stems for each plant. I will also attempt to get this 8-way manifold to be as initially flat as possible for support of the final buds and spread for yield. 

Tonight I decided to take off some of the bottom growth so the plants focus on growing everything above for now. I will top when the 3rd growth nodes have a bit more established growth to work with. 

..I also didn't like how droopy the one looked so it was an aesthetic decision as well 🤷‍♀️ 

 

20200316_193707.thumb.jpg.2d0da71e0f8bbe788cdd1865de8282fb.jpg 20200316_194015_HDR.thumb.jpg.ebcec73a4bcdb777f7b9d62b7844070d.jpg 

20200316_194043.thumb.jpg.efc504b73596f6a6c7f3162cabbe0a8b.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Mambawana said:

@Ill_Evan 

Hey you back👊...

Looking forward to seeing dwc in action again.😎

Yeah scrog and dwc is tricky. That's why there's rdwc... that must be your next conversion. Having 1 small common reservoir outside your tent cuts the work load big time. 

Looking forward to seeing you knock this one out the park.💪💪💪

RDWC with scrog is the goal 😎 already got a design ready, just need the space 😆

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was going to do the first topping tonight but the plants looked a little sulky since the defoliation yesterday so I checked  everything and it seemed all was within limits but by chance I discovered the pH pen was not accurate. Gave it a collaboration and decided to just reset the res with some fresh water and nutes as well as bump the EC up slightly. 

 

20200318_191757_HDR.thumb.jpg.4a37e7e9ecf22fac9c78755dae28cf95.jpg

20200318_191805_HDR.thumb.jpg.7589e5cf01fe2f0d1cc47005e9c4ccf0.jpg

20200318_183909.thumb.jpg.4425161be662e9f3613bb2087df2912a.jpg

 

Got myself a brix meter and have been playing around with it on some tomato plants recently. Decided to use it on the current grow and start recording the brix of these two plants at certain intervals. Brix can fluctuate during the day, before and after feeds, or in retaliation to stress. I'll be using it to determine general health of the plants as well as their reactions to reservoir changes.

I took a measurement of the brix when I did the first few cuts the last update and I recorded a measurement of 5. We are aiming to get that above 12 at peak veg and as far into the 20's in flower. It is said that a brix level of above 12 means your plant will be resistant to disease and pests and will be overall healthy. A brix level of above 20+ is said to create almost crystal-like trichomes on your buds. So let's measure and see what happens 😄

 

20200316_170336.thumb.jpg.24f3149a5c39e8b9570bfdc2295eafa1.jpg

20200316_170346.thumb.jpg.636f4d109dad7ef33ed7dace21726ce3.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20200319_171935.thumb.jpg.837637773b4ee6d15f33b4e831b92cef.jpg 20200319_171940.thumb.jpg.8bd7fddc26c13bec6b935c8bc9643ef7.jpg

 

Chop chop ✌️✌️

20200319_180722_HDR.thumb.jpg.44fdceedb34dfc0dcba03adaa0b9674e.jpg 20200319_180728_HDR.thumb.jpg.8c52d60b041e871832572c73371cb9a5.jpg 

20200319_180737.thumb.jpg.a237bdd40b30d5f849ecc9c730ba7d19.jpg

 

I like to leave a nice chunk behind after a top. The growth node becomes nice and beefy which helps the plant support itself later just before harvest when the buds are their ripest. 

Took another reading with the refractometer. The Royal Gorilla measured in at 9 and the GDP at 7. So we have an increase since the last measurement. Will be some time till another measurement is taken. The next topping will be between the 3rd and 4th nodes of each of the two stems now growing on each plant. The 2nd nodes will be removed as well at the time of topping.

Now we wait until the stems are long enough to slowly start low stress training (LST). At the rate the plants are growing, I'd say training will start in two days. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pre-Training

Got some beefy stems beginning to form. Minimal stunting from the topping and defoliation. Enough healthy growth to begin training the plants to grow flat and start the formation of the foundation for the manifold. 

Placed some screw-hooks wide of the plants to get a wide angle of attack for the training as the plants are still growing somewhat vertically and the training needs to be gentle and slow, adjusted daily until the next topping. 

 

Gorilla Glue GDP 

20200322_102152.thumb.jpg.32be85fab1af2164eeb3826a88db7d92.jpg 20200322_102157.thumb.jpg.33436e05f8f6159f5fa637bbee7beac6.jpg

20200322_103120_HDR.thumb.jpg.e39272372dbc091c86bb1cc5034090aa.jpg

 

Post-Training

Gorilla Glue GDP

20200322_104055.thumb.jpg.1b96613af4be81ca6bc88e72d2611571.jpg 20200322_104330_HDR.thumb.jpg.bc6c431ffb3c9a673d81e7b65abb28c4.jpg

 

Expecting to do the next toppings within the next week 🧐

 

 

Edited by Ill_Evan
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I decided to cut the first large fan leaves off tonight. They just looked so jutt. 

I believe I definitely pushed the EC on the seedlings a bit too high at first. The Royal Gorilla hasn't quite recovered as well as the GDP. I am getting slightly more stretch on the GDP, and some thick beefy joints on the Royal Gorilla. The manifold foundations are building up nicely, looking forward to the potential weight they will hold 🌳

These leaves looked monstrous to me on such short plants. 

Otherwise, still on track to top at the end of the week. 

 

20200324_201022.thumb.jpg.e5f4705fded0ec12ba4f9b69a39d9d04.jpg 20200324_201028.thumb.jpg.569d9d0fc321ecfbe59bf5497865d81c.jpg 

20200324_201003.thumb.jpg.f2f8bb47e01f6c4e518a3957599ef019.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not liking what's going on with the Royal Gorilla. She isn't handling the rise in EC as well as the GDP. I believe she is suffering from an early onset of nitrogen toxicity which has developed into a minor case. 

I did a reservoir flush on both plants by first adding GHE FloraKleen to the reservoirs for 24hrs and then flushing and reseting them with new nutes and RO water.

I have also dropped the EC on the Royal Gorilla. Sitting at an EC of 0,2 just until I feel it is ready again to rise the EC. GDP is sitting at an EC of 0.6 and is loving it. 

Plants should have enough growth by tomorrow or Sunday for the next topping and defoliation. Should also see a response from the Royal Gorilla in that time but I do not expect the current growth to recover. I will be mostly looking at the colour and speed of the new growth and then adapt from there. Once the old growth is defoliated at the time of topping the response should be a bit more clear. 

 

20200327_102639.thumb.jpg.1b291b24e00ea1f5006a408eddaab81a.jpg 20200327_102652.thumb.jpg.9a22506712fd53d4f80ecfd63d3b34d1.jpg 20200327_102706.thumb.jpg.c0086340f0f8e96c608f896a3d3b0100.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, Dank said:

Nice little plantjies coming along there bro!

Do you have to lift up the lids everytime u work on the res?

Was wondering if it becomes a mission later on when they get bigger?

Dankie maijie 👽

Yes I do. I have modified the lids so that they easily and effortlessly pop off the top and just slide to the side without tipping or anything in order to check/adjust pH and such. I can remove the plant with the lid and it's roots entirely into another cooler box that I keep in order to do just this if need be. Only ever need to do this the few times I flush the res entirely.  

Not too much of a mission when they are bigger but definitely a big push to build the RDWC system the next run.

Edited by Ill_Evan
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pre-Training

Got a good response from the Royal Gorilla and sufficient growth from both plants to do the toppings today and some defoliation. 

 

20200328_093143.thumb.jpg.4bca4c2164e939dfb7c1c2c2d8d75429.jpg 20200328_093155.thumb.jpg.585be4f7aa7a59e0ea485d8932341250.jpg

 

Post-Training

Had to swap out the twisty ties on the Royal Gorilla with some sturdier coated wire to hold down the low stress training. The Royal Gorilla is developing some really thick beefy stems and growth points, shorter and thicker than the GDP, both training very well right. From here it's a matter of maintaining the spread and training of the plants as they get sturdier and bigger, occasional defoliation and keeping them happy. It's up from here! 

 

20200328_100634.thumb.jpg.1839e79fe9967150101915d8e9d65477.jpg 20200328_100645_HDR.thumb.jpg.c5567424ad8c2448d4aa060b65c85a9c.jpg 

 

Royal Gorilla:

20200328_100725.thumb.jpg.93ba7398ab487e40d7426319523f04e9.jpg 

 

GDP:

20200328_100713.thumb.jpg.2e904bc84b9a2bc695435e1a38ce4cff.jpg 20200328_100812_HDR.thumb.jpg.81312cc5b1ed1e8ec16fca8a9669ed7a.jpg 

20200328_095451.thumb.jpg.38cd8b5fee753b8f88eb382fe0824077.jpg 20200328_095558.thumb.jpg.a7e8873b43ae1963ff049b35d819f82b.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Worked a bit on the reservoirs today. Keeping the GDP at it's current happy level of 0.4 EC and now that the Royal Gorilla has recovered I am going to raise the EC to match the GDP at 0.4 EC. Also took some big fan leaves off both plants which were blocking some growth nodes. Pictures below also give an idea of what it looks like when I need access to the reservoir water. 

20200402_145324_HDR.thumb.jpg.0c926b683612c41c6689aae11aefb33c.jpg

20200402_151243.thumb.jpg.5a2fe1e503dab900408ae1d40cfb62be.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am busy trying to decide when to make the flip. I can make the flip anytime from now and I'd be happy with the yield. Both plants are fully mature, however I foresee a potential problem and that is the heights of the to plants. The Royal Gorilla is much more short and stout than the GDP. 

My thinking is to maybe flip tomorrow to limit the amount of stretch the GDP will have over the Royal Gorilla. They will never be at level canopy height, so inevitably the GDP will get more light than the Royal Gorilla at the end. This may have convinced me to keep the same strain in small tents like this if one is going to do more than one plant. 

Going to think on it for the day then make the call tomorrow. 

 

20200409_124706.thumb.jpg.d5e84f648eac2e38189f53afa6e7ca76.jpg 20200409_124746.thumb.jpg.fdaba0b41f25f61ddceaae612f27820f.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good! Curious to see the Brix readings as your grow continues.

 

Regarding the height differences, I assume no scrog net? I'd open those plants up a bit more and consider  pulling down the GDP plant a bit more to try and keep it shorter for a bit longer to allow the RG to catch up a bit. You will need to find a way to anchor down the twist ties further away from the plant - at least that is what I'd do if it were my grow... Perhaps to the poles of the tent?

Hard to judge size, but I'd personally leave those plants to veg and get a bit larger before flipping to flower unless you want to try harvest sooner than later.

 

In the bigger scheme of things, an extra week or two of veg can make a fair difference to overall yield, and its not a long period of time considering the entire duration of a grow from seed to smoke. 😄 

 

EDIT: BTW how do you find the LED in veg compared to the HID?

Edited by PsyCLown
  • Agree 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

Looking good! Curious to see the Brix readings as your grow continues.

 

Regarding the height differences, I assume no scrog net? I'd open those plants up a bit more and consider  pulling down the GDP plant a bit more to try and keep it shorter for a bit longer to allow the RG to catch up a bit. You will need to find a way to anchor down the twist ties further away from the plant - at least that is what I'd do if it were my grow... Perhaps to the poles of the tent?

Hard to judge size, but I'd personally leave those plants to veg and get a bit larger before flipping to flower unless you want to try harvest sooner than later.

 

In the bigger scheme of things, an extra week or two of veg can make a fair difference to overall yield, and its not a long period of time considering the entire duration of a grow from seed to smoke. 😄 

 

EDIT: BTW how do you find the LED in veg compared to the HID?

Thanks @PsyCLown, always appreciate the input 😁

Yeah no scrog net this time. Too much of a mission with a DWC and lid top. I'll do a scrog again when I build my RDWC system later on. 

I don't want to train anymore in terms of bending the plants. One undercover goal of this grow is to find out how the plants grow specifically with just the amount of training I have already done. The differences in height was an overlooked error and another lesson learnt. 

Not too fussed on yield this time around, so I might just flip early and make like a bonsai type deal 😆

The 250W Quantum Board LED is comparable to the 250W MH bulb I used to use, easily. The ability to also lower the wattage is great with seedlings too. Overall I would recommend the QB over a 250W MH any day. 

The real comparison will be in flower I rate. Super excited. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got some more pics for you @PsyCLown. Leaving the switch to after the weekend. 

Also bumped the EC up to 1.1 and running the LED at just below 200W. It was suggested to me to run at 160W during grow and flower but I want to see what the extra oomph will do. Honestly just kinda playing around. 

 

20200410_150226.thumb.jpg.bd05c85bdd696511b77965bfe757ee3c.jpg 20200410_150234.thumb.jpg.13460706f79cadad2a4727d42118b501.jpg

20200410_150240.thumb.jpg.d81348dae708559425eb958b0827730e.jpg 20200410_150259.thumb.jpg.6788f3359cfd0ff43c8774bce1fddea4.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I decided on doing the flip today 😬 Did another defoliation in preparation and there is good light penetration throughout the plants. 

I took a brix reading again, ladies are still sitting at around a brix level of 5. So far in veg I've only recorded a measurement of 5 throughout. I am expecting it to rise as the preflower stage begins. 

 

Before Defoliation

20200412_184425.thumb.jpg.3300e110541cf5178980594c38c29f07.jpg

 

After Defoliation

20200412_192618.thumb.jpg.ed366b01449c922d183f1f489bffe002.jpg 20200412_192650.thumb.jpg.eb943695fdf64ccffb3a89e2c68292aa.jpg

20200412_192701.thumb.jpg.6ebb291e22acd30786bded72a50321da.jpg 20200412_193303.thumb.jpg.108bc8e02f387b0adb676e620047a966.jpg

20200412_192711.thumb.jpg.bec92b3bdf2720d244d42eb4062e3b0a.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good man! I always get excited when I start to see lots of white pistils forming.

That is where I am at currently with my grow, I think I am around a week or two ahead of you in terms of when I flipped.

Do you do you nutes different for the stretching phase vs the flowering phase?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By AK-47 Gold Arabesque
      First time growing photoperiods, quite excited. 

      Genetics
      Hiroshima by Renegade Seed Co.  6 Pack

      High THC, and according to the product description should deliver "high yields of dense, rock-solid buds."  Hoping to achieve that.
      Want to make one a mother and start learning to clone. The description says "These highly stable genetics produce two phenotypes at most." Should be easy to choose a winner to reveg.
      They advise topping, which I am also looking forward to learning. Want to also try "FIM" a plant or two to experiment. 
      Grow Setup
      Same as before. Here
      ~
      Lets go 
      9 November
      Seeds arrived. Also received a Promotional 2 Pack of G-Fawke.

      10 November
      Seeds into a glass of spring water. Onto a heating mat and into a dark cupboard to soak for 18 hours.

      11 November
      Seeds started showing roots. All 6 seeds popped, gently took them and placed them root facing down in Jiffy Preforma Plugs. 
      Covered the holes slightly and into the ROOTiT Small Propagator they go. Heating mat underneath, and gently misted with spring water. Also threaded the hygrometer reader through a ventilation hole, to see the environment reading. 
      I think this reading is fine for germination. Any and all feedback welcome.

      Hoping for them all to push out effectively over the coming days. In hindsight I should have maybe done the paper towel method to get the roots longer, before putting them into the plugs. I've also previously had a failed germination where I watered a bit much, so just gently misting this time as to not drown/stunt the seeds.
       
    • By High_grade.420
      150w Grow The Jungle LED Grow Light , The Light is full Spectrum. Samsung LEDs and Osram Driver , They're hands down one of the best lights iv used out of the many that I have used over the years,
      Lights Aren't available to order in the country , Imported from spain ,
      more than 1 available , price is Negotiable.
       
      If you want to know more feel free to Dm me 
    • By Johnsmithled
      This is how I built an overpowered light worth $2500+ on the market for only $850. All currency is CAD.

      *BEFORE STARTING*
      Watch the 6 part growmau5 series to learn the wiring:
       
      For the grounding plug:
       
      Technical:

      4x Hlg 185H 700ma in series drivers (i suggest you buy the newer 240H model) $250

      40x 5000K $350

      7x 3000K $25
      (You can use less I used way too many)

      All are bridgelux Gen 3/ C3 (Make sure theyre all plug in only dont mess around with the solder ones unless you have 100+hours experience in soldering)
      The 3000k ones I used were soulder onlys. Lost a couple due to human error

      Total Cost (TC): $575

      Frame:
      (Choose a better material for frame, I used wood composite because I was lazy) (I would think aluminum would be the best material but all have their pros and cons)

      Wood composite 2x2ft v

      Matching plastic 2x2ft (painting frame) $50?

      Thermal tape (sized to the width of the led bars) $20

      TC: $70-100

      Electric:

      100’ length 20guage solid core wire $60

      50 pack 2 wire wagos 221 $25

      4x plastic junction boxes 4inch x 4inch x 3inch (make sure it comes with something to plug up the holes and hold the wire)$40

      500 assorted pack heatshrink tubing $20 (good to help fit in junction box)

      4x Leviton 515PV 15Amp 125Volt grounding plug $20

      25’ 16guage wire (for the grounding plug) $20

      TC:$165-Everything is super flexible here just make sure your amps and volt calculations are solid.
      -Dedicated extra fans (required): With 2 medium fans running on the light, and another 2 small fans running on the drivers everything is 20C-25C.

      SETTING UP THE DIMMERS

      (Very easy if you do it like i did in these pictures)

      All you need is:
      •100k potentiometers (maybe an ohm meter if you want to make sure ur dimmers go all the way to 100, most dont they go to like 92 or 97)

      •20 guage wire (same as the led strips)

      •Plastic junction box (make sure its got rubber wire holders that you cut a hole through with scissors and put the wire/ potentiometer through)

      •211 Wago wire connector

      •soldering machine (temperature is dependant on what kind of solder you use) $25

      • silver solder (find a lower temp soldering machine ~360f for silver) $20
      (This light is truly 800w if you use the exact parts, if you use more or less drivers and led strips or different brands then the wattage can vary from 600-1000, materials are very flexible just try to make sure volt/amp calculations are correct) (Always be cautious with electricity, build this whole thing without being plugged in to any wall outlet/power source⚠️⚡️)









    • By the_dagga_doll
      5x SecondHand Novas
      The Nova 420W – 1000mm produces a large amount of light(47248 Lumens), making this light ideal for larger grow operations where the fixture can be placed further away from the canopy. The light spectrum and intensity produced by this fixture are both suitable for the vegetative and flowering stage (inclusive of Far-Red chips) of growth. IP 44 standard.
    • By the_dagga_doll
      The Terra Aquatica General Hydroponics Ebb & Grow Irrigation System offers an easy-to-use system ideal for both new and experienced growers. With an automatic irrigation system to ensure that the nutrient solution is pumped to the tray to feed plants, it will automatically stop working once the substrate is sufficiently watered and the nutrient solution will drop back to the tank. Durable and adaptable to the grower's needs, this irrigation system is highly functional, manufactured from 100% recycled materials while remaining durable.
       
      Produce more, more easily, without wires, tubes and complicated systems. Want to grow hydroponic herbs and vegetables at home, work or school, but put off by the complexity of the systems? The Ebb & Grow means you can use any pot you like, almost any substrate (although we recommend CocotekPX), and move plants around at will. Herbs in the front and tomatoes and chillies in the back? No problem. All salads this month and cut flowers from pots next? No problem. All our hydroponics systems are flexible, but the Ebb & Grow really is the most adaptable system we have ever made, and with no risk of leakage or overflow, easy disassembly and cleaning, it can be used anywhere that space is available.
       
      The GHE Ebb & Grow is an “ebb and flood” design: a simple timer (not included) runs a pump intermittently to bring nutrient solution up to the growing table, where it flushes spent air from the roots of your plants, waters and feeds them, then pulls fresh air in as the water drains back down to the reservoir.
       
      The system can hold up to thirty-two 15 cm plastic pots, twenty-two 1 gallon (3.75L) fabric pots, or as many larger pots as you can fit on its 88 cm square growing surface, and with a height of just 38 cm low ceilings are not a problem.
       
       
       
       
       
      FEATURES
      100L reservoir capacity
      Automatic Irrigation System
      Provides Excellent Oxygen Source to Root System
      Easy to Use
      Great Yielder System
      Ideal for New or Experienced Growers
      Adaptable to Grower's Needs
      Adaptable to Many Substrates for Growing (Clay, Perlite, Coir & Soil)
      Grow in any pots, with coco, clay pebbles or soil
      100% Recycled Materials
      Sturdy Construction
      Height Allows for Growing Plants in Places With Low Heights
      Easy to Clean
      No Risk of Leakage/ Overflow Within Minimum Maintenance
      Requires a Timer (NOT Included)
×
×
  • Create New...