Naughty.Psychonaut

BL - Platinum Silk - Inhouse Genetics BR - Garlic Sherbet - Inhouse Genetics FR - Grape Diamonds - Ethos Genetics FL - Peanut Butter Breath - Thug Pug Genetics 12/12 from tomorrow

@West Coast Vaper Brother, I feel you. You know, my passion is actually rare plant collecting and mushroom growing and I am on a few different "private" groups some not so private, and I honestly have to say the cannabis community is the shittiest to navigate in terms of sharing helpful knowledge. I say that with all the respect in the world. Sometimes you don't need to back and forth with someone cause you know what you know. I feel there's a lot.of ego in this community, because of its background alot of people invested in cannabis are just low lives. People with big aspirations, but no motivation. People that dream of being called "the King of Cannabis" without getting their hands too dirty. I have even had people from the cannabis community tell me how to do things they clearly have abosultely no clue about, but just because they once grew a cannabis seed till it had 3 sets of new leaves and now they hang out at every cannabis event and wear clothes with a cannabis leaf on it, that gives them the title as master grower of all things plant and nature related. The all talk, no show. I might be sugar coating a little, but sadly I even know a guy like this so I know I am not far off the truth. First thing he told me was that he is "a grower". Asked to see his plants. Don't have any at the moment... Big shocker. Start talking growing, I give subtle advice, he laughs and claims I can't tell him anything about growing, I give him a clone, it dies within a month. We don't talk much anymore. We need to remind ourselves more often to not sink to that level, just keep pumping the good stuff and rather than trying to help stupid people, laugh at them.

aaaah thanks man

yes I was typing out an answer to his question here as clear as I possibly could I was going short form but thought wait, get 50 growers in a room ask them "how does one grow" you'll get 50 different answers. so there wasn't a "Do this" or "do that" answer. I rather go full deep explanation. there is mos a big difference in hydro and living soil if I look at his reaction here to my previous answer, it seems it's what the man was looking for.

Rather make the mistake with organic and learn from the mistake and try to get over to the organic side than to try and force mix synthetic and organic and force things to work. the problem with synthetics isn't that it doesn't work, neither does it make the plant worse for you to consume. the problem with synthetics is it defeats the purpose of "life" which is your main focus when growing in living soil. (organic soil should be alive, if not you leaning towards inert and shouldn't be growing in soil anyway) keep things alive. then you'll notice how little we talk about when we say less is more. you gona be giving almost no nutes. now to answer your question here, the only nutrient that fluctuates is the Bloom, yeah. all the rest you keep at 1ml/L straight through. obviously unless you see burnt tips like I said before, then you give just clean water 2 or 3 times in a row and then back to feed. Ok, let me start with this. you buy soil loaded with nutrients then you plant into the soil, most important thing here is microbes. (basically always most important when talking organic). Once transplant you use clean water (dechloronated if you can) and either add a bunch of microbes to your water or mix into soil when planting. The dechlorinated part is most important right now, because you're inoculating microbes and chlorine and chloramine kills off microbes like no ones business, that's why it's in the tap water in the first place. (chlorine compounds escape water in the form of a gas, flouride you have to remove with a 3phase filter. once your microbes are thriving in the amount of chlorine is too little to bother it, plus cannabis plants also use the chlorine as a micro nutrient so using dechlorinated water all the time also isn't the best, but needed with inoculation. From here on you literally just give clean tap water untill you either see signs of deficiency then start with the biobizz stuff like explained. Every grower gona have their own watering regime, though there is a sweet spot for every different media and and and.... Media that dries out faster will need more frequent watering and vice versa, also depending on environmental conditions, my plants dry out faster in summer than winter, so my watering changes. it's never a set in stone once off one style across the board, it's more of a build a relationship with the soil and maintain the sweet spot. inert media = roots should never ever dry or you encourage salt build up and root damage. soil growers = maintain between 30 - 70% moisture. keeping it at 50% is a little risky, cause then you encourage root rot. it's important for soil to dry out to a certain extent so the roots can get a moment to take in some oxygen. Oxygen is SUPER important to your roots and people really over look this since the roots are underground and what not, like they say out of sight out of mind, but that's again ignorance. Also, as the knife cuts both ways, other side is that leaving your soil above 50% moisture for too long will obviously also encourage root rot and the root zone will become favourable to all kinds of pathogens. Here is what I do, I got my plants in 30L material pots, I water them every single night. Each pot gets minimum 300ml and maximum 500ml depening on if the leaves are praying or drooping, weather, what I did before, how much the plant is asking for at that moment. I keep a 3 to 5cm thick alfalfa layer as mulch so the top soil doesn't dry out, cause as you'd imagine 300 to 500ml doesn't settle too deep in the 30L pot, but giving that much every single night will keep the pot in that 30 to 70% moisture flux. I water it goes up to around 70% next night before I water again it'll be around 30%.... that's the sweet spot for me here where I am at and with my environmental conditions. may be different situation for you.

always good to also add a bunch of microbial life after any kind of flush as they're waterbourne aswell as soilbourne, not only the chemicals kill them, you also remove a lot of them by just the flush, but I mean if you have been using synthetic nutes in soil you propbably don't have a lot of microbial activity going on anyway. and if you continue to use synthetic nutes in soil this will continue to happen. It's like oil and water, the two don't mix.

The feeding charts fall more under the marketing scheme of getting you to use more of their product just so you end up buying more of the product. Just remember, as an organic grower you have a branding iron burn the following onto your brain - "Less Is More". - feeding a healthy plant wont make it healthier or grow faster, usually it just does more damage. This is only for people who are running the biobizz schedule, a lot of people using super soil or ammended soil can't really use these steps as it might cause more problems than anything. First off, you skipped over the most important part of all the biobizz products- Fishmix, where is your Fishmix brother? Second, you need so little silica that the amount in the soil is perfectly fine. silica addatives is more for inert media growers. this is all you need. Veg: Fish 1ml/L every watering, if you see burnt tips skip on next 2 or 3 feeds, just give clean water then back to 1m/L fish. You can give Grow 1ml/L once every 2 weeks as at this point you just want some sugars to keep the microbes happy. you can smell the grow, it's sweet, that's the beetroot extract, but don't just give grow the whole time. Flower: (not flour ) Week 1 you give 1ml Bloom to start, then you switch from giving Fish each time to giving Grow each time, and Fish only once every 2 weeks as the fish is more N focussed and you're not vegging anymore, (this is the same as the old school golden rule of cutting on N and giving molasses during flower, the sugars does NOT make the weed taste better that's 100%, but the sugars keep the microbes thriving which then gives you better weed overall). now you carry on like this, each week increasing the bloom ml/L till week 5 of flower then you keep it at 5ml/L till you ready to harvest, but then you don't harvest, you just put the nutes away, because like they say "when you think the plant is ready, give it another week" and you use this "extra week" to give just clean water. - not flush - just water as you normally would, but with clean water. during this week you check trichomes every day. I usually harvest around 10,20% amber as during the first week of drying a lot of chemiclas shift around in the plant and when drying is done you sitting at about 50%. where as when you wait till 50% before harvest you gona end up with 80% amber and that's basically sleeping medicine.

thc decarbs when spent 5 to 10min at around 100°C, which is also boiling point for water, making the psychoactive compounds orally active, you think the milk is still needed aswell? it would help to dissolve the thc for sure, but I was thinking the heat and duration will already do the thing.

This is all true though I wasn't really saying one cannot grow with synthetics, it's been proven and done for many many many years, infact when you sit at the table with big time farmers and talk "conventional farming" you're talking about synthetic nutes. that's how much people use synthetic nutes. the food you eat was grown with synthetic nutes.. there are more synthetic nutrient growers than organic. I also didn't even touch on any effect it has on the body once you consume any product that's grown with synthetic nutes, though this is a problem aswell and the ignorance around marketing synthetic nutes as "the plant breaks it down the same way as orgaincs" is getting older than sliced bread. It's not the talk of the town anymore, it's nothing new. the big problem is the "conventional" part. it shouldn't be conventional. It literally kills microbes. There is no arguing that and what is EVERYTHING made of? Microbes. Everything comes down to microbes man, everything depends on it. It starts with the sourcing, extracting and manufacturing of the synthetic nutes that's not needed in the first place that's got a huge impact on our planet long before you pay R100 for distilled water with R0.01 worth of synthetics in, long before you get your hands on the final product it's already done so much damage just to get it to you. Huge machinery, mining, factories, packaging, transport and everything surrounding all that and all that has to go into the end product. I just feel it's 2023 man, we collectively as a planet went from full organics to "conventional farming", if a person argues that it's impossible to make the change back then I don't know what to say to that person. I'll just respectfully stop talking. Organics is detremental to this industry, cause once you go full organic you stop using nutes, even the "organic" lables. you literally go over to giving tap water and learning how to use your waste as nutrients. And if the argument is that not everyone has time, that is such ignorance, cause doing anything hydro related takes at least twice as long if not longer and the headaches surrounding the finer detail such as ph and that shit. I don't get it, I don't find it "cool" anymore. It was when it was new, but even the hype around how it's so much better than organics, when it really isn't, it was mostly just bias. eh.... I'm just over synthetics. Trust me my brother, watch the documentary, you'll understand where I am coming from. I've only scratched the surface here It's got nothing to do with how the plant uses the stuff.

What's your feel on the size and amount of plant in that NFT setup? I am assuming all 36 plants go on the 3 tube system, if so you going to keep those 36 plants relatively small? I am not thinking in terms of grow space, but rather root space. Personally, I don't mess with hydro, because of my experience with it. I notice is the gutter system may not support big root systems, this is why dutch buckets, DWC, Autopots, Rockwool bricks flood and drain tables, Ebb and flow systems all became a big thing in hydro cannabis growing. NFT is really only for a bunch of small plants such as all the FMCG crops. works nice in vertical farming setups where a bunch of small plants are grown and crop is rotated monthly. Even when growing stuff like spinach and other leafy greens, all tiny plants, if ones root system gets a teetsy bit bigger than the others then the whole NFT flow gets messed up. If the first plant sucks up too many nutes the rest don't get any..... NFT systems are such a headache brother, and when growing cannabis you want a biiiiig thiiiiiick healthy root system. when looking into hydro growers you'll notice that they always show off their roots, cause that's the important bit. As always, the knife cuts both ways. potentially what you could do is keep the light on 12/12, never veg, put clones in and flower them all right away. would give less root related problems. otherwise, looking good man looks like you got a big plan and I am excited to see how this plays out.

You know about "yerba mate" tea? The healthiest drink on the planet. wonder how it'll work/taste with cannabis. One can get quite buzzed off drinking just everyday herbs and spices as a tea and it's got crazy antioxidant properties, flushes the body. drinking cannabis the mate way will probably give the feeling of being on strong edibles. willing to give this a try myself hahah this is mate

when can we collectively start boycotting synthetic nutrients???? here is my motivation I remember trying to explain this in 2019 and people got so damn butt hurt when I said I strongly believe synthetic nutes just shouldn't exist. Personally I hate the stuff with a burning passion and I've got good reason to.

organics you build a biosphere over time, using synthetic nutes in living soil is counterintuitive as the most important part of living soil is the life in it and synthetic nutrients are all harmful to microbes. plus you never flush living soil, that's the point. if you flush is you turned it somewhat inert and gotta start rebuilding, though if you gona keep using salts you gona get salt build up and root zone problems such as nutrient lockout. if you need to flush and keep flushing it's cause soil and coco/water holds onto things differently and if you flush the soil enough you might aswell be growing in coco anyway. only difference is there will be less root stress in coco with synthetics. soil + synthetics = asking for trouble and flushing will prolong the problem. it's either or with those. don't mix grow style. to the people using synthetic nutes in living soil, no bad rep no bad energy no funny business no back and forth none of that childish shit, but rather don't educate others when one doesn't really understand the whole thing clearly. we can all help eachother and I hope I don't rub anyone the wrong way, I hope to be constructive. take some time, sit back, roll a few fatties and watch this.

Yeah man I like to make that fire burn briiiiiiiiight!!!! I could go on for days and days and days about all this, but really why I feel the way I do is because I have a family member sitting at a desk at a big agricultural based firm, they deal a lot with monitoring the impact of the use of these "conventional" fertilizers. and to be honest, it's sad that when we say "conventional" we refer to synthetic fertilizers. It's alarming that there are still farmers out there who'll turn a blind eye to this. Aren't farmers supposed to be the good guys? They certainly carry that badge proudly and arrogantly. It's 2023 now, no more need to get stuck in old ways, the way forward is getting away from creating a demand for synthetic fertilizers.

When you say reservoir, do you keep mixed nutrients for longer than 24hr? like hydroponics?

BUMP

orgasoilux - every bag is a little different. I've heard reports of plants toasting in that soil, but lately it's been more positive. you can use clean water till first sign of deficiency. I wouldn't put a seedling directly in orgasoilux, I'll pop it in sphagnum or rockwool then move over to orgasoilux when they're just a bit bigger than the plants in your photos. also use the orgasoilux just as it is, don't add stuff, it's already fully loaded. only thing you can use is a healthy dose of microbes when transplanting and that's it. clean water, you'll be able to get the plant to above your knees or "ready to flower" size on just water and the nutrients in the soil. first time you feed will be before flowering so you'll wana go for Biobizz fish mix at that point and when you flip over to flower you obviously gona start giving bloom nutes, but switch the Fish out for the Grow, as the Grow has more sugar for the microbes and you want less N at that point and more P and K. when reamending the Orgasoilux I would recommend emptying all your pots into a 100L bin or pot, dump 10L of jamies elemental blend in there, work it through, water it, let it stand for about a month to two months, then you got yourself a super soil there. that elemental blend is fucking

@Stinky Pete have you seen that "kiss the soil" documentary? I wont keep hammering on, but please do a background check on the impact the sourcing, manufacturing and use of synthetic nutrients has on our planet and everything that lives on it. I know this conversation always leads to "show proof" and "we want a link to research that's valid" so I go one step ahead of myself and drop them here few PHD and master degree holders on this one https://www.researchgate.net/publication/331132826_The_Impact_of_Chemical_Fertilizers_on_our_Environment_and_Ecosystem here is another https://www.researchgate.net/publication/327794401_Nitrate_and_Nitrite_in_Health_and_Disease here is a link that'll give you a pdf with some more info https://www.health.state.mn.us/communities/environment/water/docs/contaminants/nitratmethemog.pdf

WAAAAAAAAAY easier than autos man totemic explains it nicely. you only need to worry about RH. all you need to know is when loadshedding hits it will NEVER extend your light hours, only shorten them. the worst loadshedding has been is 2x 3hr plus 1x 2hr breaks. that's 8hrs of darkness in 24hrs, so I just pull out my timers and let the lights be on for the remainder of the time. gives me 16/8 schedule still good for vegging. you just flip the little switch on the timer that leaves it on 24/7, loadshedding itself will control your cycle. if you can get a inverter+battery pack just to run a circulation fan and extraction fan for at least 3 hours then you one step ahead of me and I still have a harvest every 3 months with my 2 tent perpetual cycle.

brother, my grow setup is in a wendy house outside. but I did insulate the wendy with the stuff they use for ceilings. thick white foamalite boards. will look for a photo real quick, there are some photos up on one of my threads. I am not home now, otherwise I'll just show you when I get home.

lol even the header says it ends 28 Aug 2022

yeah I also think this is just a boendoe grow. I got photoperiods standing outside next to the side of the house, just cause they don't get full sun they wana flower. I have also heard clones that grow in tents under 18/6 for veg for a long time will become conditioned and automatically flower if it gets too much less than 18/6 as it's been nursed in a fine tuned environment basically. also, most importantly, I have so many friends with outdoor plants, some who have big designated outdoor setups, lots of plants just simply flowering cause of the wack photoperiod cycle. few reasons for photoperiods to flower outdoors this time of year. if you look at the veru tippy top of the big bud, not sure if it's because it's so fluffy, or do I see a few leaves wanting to push through? you might be encouraging a bit of foxtailing, but that's also understandable cause of the shit photoperiod cycle. for full flower you need less than 12hrs of light on that plant daylight hours are between 14 and 15hrs now, even if it is an auto, 12hrs of light won't make an auto veg so making sure it only gets 12hr and nothing more you will at least ensure less foxtailing either way.

Welcome @Stinky Pete I'm in Wellington, Boland. people call this place Hellington, few places get hotter than we get it here... I grow all year long, no aircon no inverters no batteries no generators no extra fancy shit... you just gotta be able to keep your hand on them and don't go away for more than 2 days at a time. been growing indoor for over 5 years now. it just takes a bit of flexibility and knowing what you need to do. like letting the tent stand open for an hour or two when needed. Lights aren't the issue with loadshedding, fans are, and they'll only save you from PM when the RH skyrockets during loadshedding, but if your IPM is on point then you are good as gold.... also, photoperiods are waaaaaaaaaaay more forgiving than autos, autos are really only for the guys who make little to no mistakes, otherwise you shoot yourself in the foot thinking you gona make it easier on yourself by growing autos in an difficult situation where autos themselves even in fine tuned grow room will give you problems. whyyyyyy brother, why do that if you got a handle on organic, whyyy in the name of all that is good would you move away from organics over to synthetics? It's not 2001 anymore, "conventional" farming has got to stop, asap. we as cannabis growers / urban farmers should set the example. do yourself a favour and provide a looksee here F*#K SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS, I have said this sooooo many times before, but synthetic fertilizers just shouldn't exist. and I will keep saying it for as long as it's true.

the sale ended 28 August, think the link has expired by now.

the onion has been around for a while brother