Naughty.Psychonaut

oh yeah, that's some nice roots for only 2 weeks clone environment must be dialed in over there hows the smoke report on the ginger tea?

hahah nice, going for a sea of green thing or just making a bunch? all ginger tea or mix stuff?

hahah yeah too true man sometimes can really throw you off a product here's the Humic Acid - recommended dose is 3-5ml/L during seedling - veg https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/humic-acid here's the Fulvic Acid - recommended dose 2ml/L for small plants, 5ml/L for large plants and 10ml/L for trees. https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/fulvic-acid because of recommendations I feel Fulvic 3ml/L, what you think?

I see I see thanks for breaking it down for me! what dose and of which would you suggest I give? I'll apply and hopefully I will get to understanding the product better through use also hahah I got it free and only used it maybe once or twice, but always felt too uncertain to say I know what I am doing with it.

hahahah shit oh well whoever said it, it makes sense just note, the yellowing on new growth is not N deficiency. those are the beginning stages of excessive P and K symptoms. or what is it that indicated N deficiency? I could be missing something, but I feel the they gona ask for N soon, because I am not giving any since I am trying to lower overall EC from the excess of other stuff. mainly also the reason for not feeding more right now. I wouldn't be able to get it over my heart to feed them anything now knowing how much I fed them before they started looking like this. almost 100% sure there is no deficiency right now and also how I know it's excess. The first deficiency that will show will be N, cause there's a normal amount of it right now, but because I cannot feed just N I can't feed anything at all and risk even more P and K stress. so my only alternative is clean water till the excess symptoms are a little less then slowly half dose of Fish which is N focussed. and then taking it from there. I got both humic and fulvic acid laying around, but I feel there's not enough information out there for me to comfortably use it. Unless also just with the less is more approach. I have an understanding of the stuff but also only the limited amount information that's out there since these 2 things have not been fully studied yet. Just don't wana "add" more stuff when I am thinking about less is more and knowing very well I already over did it I just feel a step back right now is a step in the right direction.

duuude 100% organics is more about reading the plant than anything since there's already nutrients and stuff happening in the soil you're set with a given starting point, where as with hydro you start with basically nothing and follow a schedule from there. with organics you gotta know how to speak plant. I am using the Biobizz range and have been alternating between the Grow and Fish during veg. I see that the Grow has more P and K in it so I am thinking it was too much of that also the fact that they're in recycled soil and I had flowering plants in the soil last where I fed them with BioBloom, so my mind is telling me there's also some left over P and K. I also picked up on your pro tip you dropped recently on using more Fish during veg and when flower comes switching to the Grow together with Bloom. makes a bunch of sence to me since you also need the sugar from the molasses in the Grow more during flower than during veg. Either way the clean water for now, but I have a feeling they should be asking for some N real soon and I don't wana wait till that happens. So if they're not looking happy by the end of this week I'll introduce half dose of the Fish.

Well, stick a fork in her, she's done By the looks in the photo you can't really see the difference from day 4 to 5. Usually the seperation leaves less curd in the bottom of the jar and it all comes together at the top. I used high fat milk so I am sure that's the reason for the extra high amount of curd forming. The white on the bottom of the jar is just a film on the sides, the whole bottom half of the jar is LABserum. ready to use. popped her in the fridge this morning, will seperate it tonight and add about 300ml of the LABS to 10L AACT for aplication tomorrow. For the indoor ladies no nutrients so I have tap water bubbling to get the chlorine out so I can add BioCult with LABserum in it just for inoculation. no feed. The big 100L pots outside, soil is ALIVE not gona disturb the worms for a photo had the bin open for the fisrt time over this weekend after starting it about 3 weeks ago, everythings pumping 100% in the worm bin if no one knows how to make mozzarella from curd I'll be giving the curd to the worms aswell, for this round only. I love mozzarella and I am not passing up the opportunity again I'll get it right.

Small update here, GD finally showing signs of reveg. Letting the Cheese bush out and do their own thing in the meantime. I'll make sure the tent looks the way it needs to before flip. Maybe a drop or two too much N here for these ladies. GD reveg

looks like I am still too heavy handed with the nutes, been on clean water for over 2 weeks now all still not growing 100% gotta stop with my over feeding issue! Clear signs of excessive P and K. I really need to let the "less is more" thing still sink in!

Day 4 almost done

when buying DE it's important to get the expensive / food grade stuff as you only want the diatoms, but what most people seem to look over is that the powder you get is not the diatoms, that's just the carrier powder. that's why every second DE product looks slightly different in colour or texture and if you buy the cheapest stuff you putting talc powder and all sorts of other unwanted compounds in your soil. the product is much like mycos in the way that it needs a carrier, because diatoms are living micro organisms. they're phytoplankton. they live in bodies of water. like rivers, lakes, ocean and what not. they're extracted and kept dormant in a dried state for many many many years and they'll come back to life when introduced to water. much like algea, because as a whole, that's what phytoplankton are. your soil is not a body of water so they cannot thrive there and because they're microscopic once introduced to water or moisture they come to life again and because they're in some unfavourable habitat they quickly die off and get consumed by other microbes diatoms have bodies like cells and what makes up the outer layer of their bodies/cell wall is a pure silica compound with a sharded glass like texture, though this too gets broken down by other microbes. that's the silica release. when used as pest management it really only works when kept in the dry dormant state on your top soil where other microbes can't access it. they really only do any kinda harm to larvae. even very very soft bodied soil dwellers such as any kind of earthworm will be unphased by the diatoms. anything that can jump or fly just gona laugh at the diatoms. once you ontroduce water or any kinda moisture to the diatoms you wake them up and they basically immediately start dying off and consumed, cause they're not in their preferred habitat. if you can kill off any larvae in the top soil that's a big win already that's why I use it a lot, with most DE products you'll run into an overload of the physical powder used as a carrier creating negatively charged or dry pockets in your soil way before hitting a silica toxicity. obviously depending on the given silica content in the soil.

Day 3. a whole lot of activity. there was a bit of a spilt milk smell yesterday, nothing terrible, but what you would imagine it smells like where they milk the cows. a fresh dairy almost able to smell the bacteria in the air -kinda odour, but today it smells kinda nice.

seperation happening, curd forming

GD was moved to other tent, going for a monocrop here. cleaned up except the one still bouncing back from over feed - bottom right - opened up the rest just a little.

growing along, still gona veg for a while. took the Pineapple Chunk out, took her mulch layer off, leaving her outside in full sun to help her dry a bit quicker. replaced it with a Grape Diamond plant. she started flowering outside. had to cut her back for clones, put her under 18/6 to reveg. wish I planned to fill the tent with just one strain. one corner looking sad hahah

the trick with micro organisms in most cases is that they're most effective when there are colonies "fighting" it out between eachother. instead of having a dominant bacteria or enzyme. you don't want anything to dominate. that's where things go wrong. when researching microbes in a lab you don't just grow the microbes, you give them challenges almost like "torture test" them by having them grow amongst other microbes and see what it does. everytime the micro organism interacts with another one that's new information to be studied. 100% of the time when a dominant culture comes in contact with another culture it starts to produce some sort of metabolites. as humans we owe a ton of research to this, but what we know so far is that if left alone to dominate the culture will geographically define itself by consuming everything in its path untill it has to fruit or create a reproductive body. this is a problem. but if presented with challenges or other micro organisms it creates secondary metabolites in forms of exudates - not a challenge as in let it dry out and see if it lives, I mean challenges in forms of other micro organisms. the exudates from competing colonies of organisms, be it bacteria, fungi or even pathogens is what builds a healthy immune system in the soil. same way a vaccine works. this might seem counterintuitive, but the concept of "good" and "bad" exists as one in nature. we just kind a labled things how we see them to make it easier for us to understand certain other aspects of our own lives, but ask yourself, how is it possible to have 100% healthy mycelium in nature thriving where Trichoderma is ever present? It's because of balanced diversity. there are wars going on under the soil between the micro organisms competing for dominance and the dead soldiers are the exudates. they're also the reason for the health in the soil. there can be no life without death. the concept of micro organism in soil, in many ways, act a lot like food in a humans gut. in the sense that if you eat a bunch of the same thing over a long period of time, even if it's healthy and good for you, rather than it helping you it will begin to become a problem for you. your immune system goes to shit if you don't keep the stuff in your gut diverse. you don't need to really understand the science behind it to understand that part. in the same sense that soil does not benefit from having a butt load of the same stuff or any of the beneficial stuff just because it's beneficial... you kinda have to get the balance right and understand the way these colonies function and what they're actually doing. they don't know what you expect of them, so you kinda have to know the only thing they trying to do is thrive. and even if it's a beneficial fungi/bacteria you don't want it to thrive, so you have to keep adding other bacteria and enzymes that all wana thrive aswell and give the "dominant" culture a run for it's money. they "fight it out" by trying to cover as much area space possible and where they cross paths or come to a stand off they battle it out and this creates the secondary metabolites, exudates and all the trace minerals. people tend to think all micro organisms act like fungal networks, where with fungal networks you want a dominant culture. but with enzymes and bacteria you want diverse cultures. and then the most important part will be moderation. seeing as this is my second SST I ever made I will hold off on the SST for about 6 months and when I do it again I'll be sure to use all different seeds than I used this time. that's the key. In the meantime I'll be doing different ferments and going for different things each time. not gona keep making the same FPJ or FFJ's have to use different stuff each time and as it's much higher in minerals I'll be using it intermittently at rates of 1 to 5ml / L of water. I am still new to all this so I hope I won't be eating my words any time soon though I got a better understanding of mycology than soil science, I am trying to tie two ends together which can cause more confusion cause not everything translates directly, but the two things can also be looked at as one whole and it's not like I am trying to do something new here. this way of gardening has been on going for the longest time. thousands of years. we're more advanced now in 2022, I hope to understand it all one day, but the learning never stops. never wana reach a point where I try to claim I know it all because that's when we stop learning anything new.

Thanks man, I definitly needed to hear that hahah this stuff is so cheap and easy I can really see myself getting carried away with it I have heard quite a bunch of people say I can over do it with the SST and just to be carefull with any of the teas and ferments. I made this batch to inoculate the cooking soil, but I know it's gona be way too much, so I'll be giving some to the whole garden. this will be the second time I ever made SST, with the first time being 2 weeks ago. I'll let a couple months go by before making it again and hope to gain more knowledge on it in this time. I put the pulp in my worm tower, so they can turn it into casting before I am gona use it. after this I'll be collecting IMO and leaf mold to make some FPJ from the new growth on the local flora. it's spring so loads of auxin hormones around. wana make some FFJ for my ladies going into flower. going down the korean natural farming rabbit hole, but some of those things can be quite complicated and if not done right can cause more harm than good, but getting to know it and understanding it better will bring a more sustainable way of gardening. so I feel it's quite a good rabbit hole to go down. I heard I guy say enzymes are like millions of different kinds of keys to millions of different kinds of locks and the locks are the trace minerals and micronutrients. it's always easy to guess the macro nutrients and say "I need N or P or K" but how do you know when and what of any of the other elements it is, or could be? So when adding enzymes, it's pointless to add a whole bunch of one specific kind of enzyme that only does one thing, you need to add the whole group of enzymes, the more diverse the better. which makes the most sense to me. Instead of adding a lot of one thing, rather add smaller amounts of a wider variety of things. This is what I'll be going for.

it's not that much work hahah I am planning to do way more! I want to introduce as wide a variety of different kinds of enzymes, bacteria and fungi as I can without doing something crazy. starting with the more simple stuff. I will be using the malted barley in my teas aswell, never grinded them up though. gona do that next time!

SST - everything sprouted, straight into the blender strain out the juice from the pulp the red speckled beans made a cream collect the pulp, super food for th worms add about 500ml to about 10L of tap water that's been aerated to get the chlorine out, because with the SST I also add about 2 to 3g of BioCult. 5minutes after adding this to the bubbling water I'll be using most of this tonight when I get home, won't let this brew for more than 24hrs and by then I'll want to have used it all. never let it sit without aeration. I'll start by using it for what it was made for, inoculating the "cooking" soil or basically just keeping it alive. then 300 to 500ml to each of my bigger plants depending on how wet the soil already is. If the plant needs nutes I'll add half to a third dose to this. I'll add another 10L of rain water if I have, which I don't right now, so I'll use 3phase filter water to fill the brew back up, give it a few good stirs so the brew is even more diluted then I just go crazy with it all over the rest of the garden. LABS - rice wash water, day 3, started smelling sweet, looked like a very very thin layer of some sort of colony forming on top so I am assuming the thing started happening... if left too long here and it starts smelling sour, just pour it straight onto some garden soil and start over. get it while it's still sweet. this is about 500ml, pour the RWW into a glass jar big enough to fill 6 to 10x the amount of the RWW, I just had a 3L jar laying around. to this you wana the least processed milk you can find, straight from the cow tit is the best you can use store bought milk, the higher the fat the better and the more "long life" it is the more it's been processed so a rule of thumb - the quicker it goes bad from fresh the healthier and more alive it is. so do with that informarion what you will.... best I could get on a Sunday afternoon was high fat fresh milk from the shop. added 2L of the milk to the 500ml of RWW. keep at room temperature in a dark dry place with good ventilation. Day 1 -

It was time to get better soil for my ladies, gathered a few ingredients, made a 180L batch that's "cooking" for my next batch. Thinking of going no till as I am basically creating a living garden bed here and I don't like worms in small pots. they need space. I don't really wana take from these pots after this, but I'll have to empty them out into smaller pots for my indoor grows and I don't wana disturb what I have created now. got a bunch of red wrigglers, started a worm tower to collect some castings for teas and top dressing in future. added 150g of worms to the tower and devided another 150g up between a 100L pot and a 80L pot. roughly went for a ratio of 30% spent soil (ff premium classic) 30% medical grade peat moss and 30% leca hydrorocks. the last 10% as amendments. garden math, I love it. the peat - also using this 50/50 with perlite for clones, works nice. Here is a photo of the soil underneath the layer of mulch - I used hay as I have a ton for the mushroom stuff, but it's only for the time being. I have 12 different cover crop sown, will discuss that, but I'll thin out the mulch after a couple days for cover crop to come through. in future I'll be using alfalfa as mulch. I moved the hay a little for the pgohoto and the very first spot I open you can see a worm bro working the soil. added a bag of elemental blend to each pot along with kelp flakes, insect frass and diatomaceous earth. the first batch of SST and LABS I made was way too much, whole garden got treated as I didn't wana keep the stuff so both these pots got soaked with it. The way I made the treatment was 18L tap water, aerated for 12hrs to get rid of the chlorine just so it doesn't hurt the microbes (I know cannabis plants need minute amount if chlorine, but just cause I am adding microbes to this batch, I want the worst of it out), I added about 5grams of biocult - which is almost overkill, it's surely more than enough - I add about 1L of the SST juice and 300ml LABS. as soon as I add the stuff to the aerating water it foams up over the top of the bucket. just walked around the garden soaking everything with it. made about 6 batches of it, which came out to be about 120L already busy with the next batch. who's making these? SST day 1 - soak. I use dechlorinated water all the way when working with microbes, and I know I am after enzymes here, but just keep reading.... I used red speckled beans, corn, pearl barley and malted barley Day 2 - pour off water, let it stand in the jars. (I start the barley a day later, because they usually sprout quicker) Day 3 - Sprouts on the beans and corn, barley will have sprouts by tomorrow then they get blended up with 50/50 sprouts/dechlorinated tap water. - don't want sprouts to get too long, I am after the enzymes which are at their most prolific right when the seed pops and first sign of root shows. will update process LABS - I don't know if my first batch came out right, but since it's cheap as shit I'm gona keep trying so I can better understand it all. If anyone knows how to make the mozarella from the curd, let's talk? I had tastic, so I used tastic, rice wash for 15min with dechlorinated tap water. Pour the water off, feed the rice to the worms. Let the rice wash water stand untill it smells sweet... this is where I am at right now. will update process 12 cover crops, come to think of it, it's 14 now. as we all know when it comes to cover crops, diversity is key. here is my list (everything the grow shop had) Sweet Basil, Chamomile, Coriander, Dill, Sunflower, Marigold, White Clover, Red Clover, Nasturtium, Chrysanthemum, Borage, Lucerne then I also added a little bit of Barley and some Sorghum I had laying around. Worm tower - bedding - spent soil + hay. top bin got grass clippings, green grass and wild foliage from our local area. topped with dried bush twigs and leaves and more hay. the dried leaves have quite a bit of IMO on it, other than that, kitchen scraps, dried garden clippings, green garden clippings. I also feed mycelium grain cultures than I don't used and I have dumped a few liquid cultures in there aswell that I was unsure of mycelium landscape liquid cultures mycelium clouds mycelium metabolics here is an interesting one, I was told that there is some contamination present and the mycelium is trying to get away from it by reproducing. so what I have here is a tiny mushroom fruiting inside of a agar "petri dish", and yes, that's a cubensis hahah. last photo shows outer edge of the mycelial growth on the agar turning blue, not trichoderma, that is blue from bruising. mycelium from most psilocybin species, just like the mushroom fruit body itself, turn blue when stressed or bruised. so I think maybe some kinda environmental issue as I obviously haven't touched these. a day or two after I saw the tiny mushroom cobweb mold took over and now it's fucked. I am about to toss it into the worm bin, hope the worms enjoy it anyway, I probably left out a lot, but already feel like I am saying too much I am new to all this so if there's any do's or don'ts you guys know of, any secrets, I would love to hear some! have a lekker slow and steady sunday all!

Hey bud, hope you are well It was just the Pineapple Chunk that got the flush, one in the front left spot you can see she's quite stressed. I could possibly remove her mulch, but now that she is in a more acceptable EC range she'll be sucking the soil dry a bit quicker. hopefully. will see what she does by tonight then make a move. I am just now recently beginning to get a better understanding of how little I really know about organics well, I mean... I've always known, but like they say, ignorance is bliss! Just chatting to the right people and seeing the right kinda stuff will really do something crazy for ones perspective. I feel like I owe my plants and myself a lot of work and a lot more understanding and with it all comes better practices. You can read a book till you can recite the words from memory, but do the thing then you see it's a whole different ball game. Plus, I just wana get better at growing weed thanks for the kind words I see you still pumping the plants over there doing the good things, keep well brother!

Ok, so it seems the Zweet Inzanity enjoyed their time in the hot house. The soil they where planted into was relatively freshly cooked, so one of the 4 plants showing a bit of stress right now, but I already know why and half way to recovery already. the plant in the middle is a Grape Diamond mother that was getting big outside and went into flower, but wont be able to finish, so cut her back a whole bunch to start my next batch, got 5 clones of her... monocrop plus a new mother, luckily we moving towards veg cycle outdoors so they can just be left outside for now. still got the 150w LED flood light on them from 18.00 till 22.00 then from 22.00 till 06.00 they sleep.

Well... Guys and girls, this is what it looks like when you neglect your plants for a while and believe me, I tried to make them look as pretty as I possibly can before the photo was taken. obviously one plant in the corner, Pineapple Chunk, still stressing hard. Flushed her, somehow her soil EC was sitting at 7.0, but she never showed stress with transplant, but now that she's "bigger" she's stressing about too much nutes.... What you guys think? Lockout? Root damage? 3 Super Cheese plants all got stripped of old dying leaves of which there where plenty, main branches selected, nodes stripped. Scrog net pulled down to open them up for shorter branches to come through. first time for me using mulch. sometimes it helps to see your situation from further away, cause had it not been for my negligence I would probably not have noticed how dead my "living soil" was... made some AACT with rainwater, wormcastings as a base, molasses, alfalfa for loads of enzymes and trace minerals, SST juice for more enzymes and trace minerals, the pulp was mixed into top layer of soil for even more enzymes and trace minerals and encouraging bacterial and fungal growth and since I added a buffet of food for fungi, just as a cherry on top of the cake, some more fungi, a heap of biocult. diluted it down 50/50 with more rain water. gave each plant like 500ml and then topdressed with hay. getting into watering less at a time, but more frequently, as my topsoil was dying while the bottom of the pot was still wet. can't have that. Also looking into the whole KNF thing? Who's into this stuff? I tried making LABs once, stunk up the whole house.... anway, back to normal

Holding the grow in high hopes Mr.Fisherman with autos it's one and done, no room for mistakes with those plants, no time to clone them either. I am still way too scared to try autos in fear of not doing everything 100% and ending up with only 10g. still very excited to see the grow

600w of any light will cause more kak in a 60x60 tent if you can't dim it down a whole bunch 600w of LED is even overkill in a 1m2 space. LED gardener suggests the golden standard at 300w/1m2. this is considering you got the right output in terms of K/L.