Naughty.Psychonaut

Man, these local genetics grow too fast I was planning on having the flower tent at least halfway done before even thinking bout flipping these. gotta clone them asap then flip I guess Will take them out the tent to photograph individually and note a few characteristics I am picking up in during veg, but we all know it's the end result that matters most

Threw the net down, just recovering from all the bending and manipulation then flipping this babe hope everyones having a lekker weekend

@Simeon Ayy, don't forget the claw! The claw is early onset signs of excessive N. Though the claw would sometimes be more of a "sudden bend" instead of that gradual curl. Have you been feeding the plant? Transplanted recently? Any way she's suddenly getting more nutes? The spraying during darkness is usually way waaaaayy more important than just spraying as a means to and end. I am not sure why that bit of info always gets left out, but there are 3 big reasons why it's such a no no - most spray applications, even stuff like wormjuice or compost teas are degraded by UV (this is why, with organic media the very top soil is always the least "alive", even on earths surface, most biological activity happens under the ground in complete darkness away from direct UV. this is why we can clean water using UV) so spraying organic stuff while the sun is out degrades the stuff you spray, and with organics being that sensetive you'll be surprisde to know chemical sprays are even more UV sensetive.... and in a much more sinister way. chemicals exposed to UV can turn into other chemicals... then ontop of UV degrading the applied product the droplets on the leaf surface can form a magnification effect and sun rays or light might actually burn that spot. Lastly, and I think most important there is, surfactant... let's get into it. These "pores" we talking bout, scientific name is Stomata. They're the mouth part of the plant that "inhales" and "exhales". Now when we spray, doesn't matter what we spray, we have to mix it with water. Water has a surface tention (when you have droplets on a surface the droplet will be in the form of a drop, the sides of the water is the water tention keeping it in that shape. stuff like soap and oil breaks the water tention and cause the droplet to spread out) when we spray stuff it's recommended to always add a surfactant to break the surface tention of the water. this will help coat the surface of the leafs better aswell as allow for better uptake of whatever you sprayed as it's hitting "more of the plant" instead of forming droplets and leaving residue on the leaves with a potential to burn, residue means it was too much for the plant to uptake. now, surfactant makes whatever you spray more oily and that's a good thing. not a bad thing. so I am a bit hesitant to believe that the oil part of the neem oil is not allowing the plant to breathe. I am religious bout my neem spray, always got full organic surfactant and only spray in complete darkness, none of my plants have ever shown this reaction. Once took a plant from a buddy, didn't see the spider mites till it was on my property, kept her in quarantine, hit her with neem one week, pyrol next week, then neem again and by the second time I had to spray pyrol and the mites still put up a fight I made the neem 1.5 × strenght, straight up burnt the fuck out that plant, 90% of the plant turned to a necrotic crisp, so I am not totally against the idea that neem may have caused this either, but I guess the given condition of the plant and the strength of the application and the time of day all that stuff comes into play. but it could very well be a soil issue, just gotta check what's the what what around your feeding/watering been lately?

Second to harvesting the prep phase is probably my favourite, also most important! Starting a new thread, that's up to you I guess if you like things organized and just wana make it easier for people to find certain info through searches instead of seeing an introduction thread people won't really think there's much usefull info in the thread, but if you make a new thread that relates more to the topic of questions you wana ask it'll just be easier to spot for people looking for some info. also probably depends on if it's just a couple of questions or like ongoing conversation, but yeah still up to you we still reply no matter the thread topic I would vote for indoor, but I see lots of indoor growers going back outdoors as SA is such a lovely place to be in with all the loadshedding buttfuckery, at least we have good sun! Just not good time right now to start outdoor grow as it's flower season till September/October.

Awesome! I'm excited to see what you gona do there's a lot of hype around the local breeders, I see a lot of their stuff on instagram and it looks like some local guys giving the US breeders a run for their money! Some names I see - Nocturnal Genetics, Headhoncho, Black Flag, Senpai and then we all know Totemic, and there's a whole bunch more. Check out this site with all the locals https://owlsroostsa.com/bird-seed/

Welcome Got any grows going at the moment?

Aswell as this channel, you'll get ALL the answers from this guy, promise you

@Simeon check all this guys videos

Only a pleasure bud Hmmmm Short answer is no, but I may have to try explain things a little different. You see, what I was trying to get at with the wormcastings as topdress is that you wana achieve a balance, not exactly feed the plants and ontop of that any liquid feed, no matter where it comes from or how it's made, will always cover less of a spectrum of "stuff" than most wormcastings. So the worm juice is nice as a balance keeper, but again you can never look at any liquid input as the basis of your grow, not even worm juice. That's more like a compost tea, it'll just restore the balance in your soil. It's not a feed at all, neither is wormcastings. Wormcastings, worm juice and topdressings are all just "essentials" to balance your soil. Nutrient feed comes after that. It's two completely different things. The black soil you collected will surely help bring IMO to your soil, it will help, but even less than the wormcastings in the way of "feeding" your plants. I'd rather add that black soil to the worm bin and let the IMO populate like that. In small pots like you have there, with a soil media that doesn't offer much for the IMOs to stay alive, you'll be adding that black soil only to have the IMO die out anyway. You see, you can reach a point where the soil is so well balanced you can give clean water right from seed all the way through to veg, but that's really only possible if you been building, conditioning and cooking the soil before you planted. Once you have to topdress you already missed, same with feeds, and you can never topdress or add stuff to soil while you are growing in it that'll ever bring it close to a well rounded soil. Basically, by the standard of your soil demanding ongoing maintenance, because it's not a well rounded soil, it'll mean you have to way more to upkeep the plant health than a person would who made good soil to begin with. I also mentioned that there are even better stuff than wormcastings to use as a topdress, cause worm casting is just a broad spectrum fertilizer and every batch differs from the next so you don't always get the same results. The more you rely on "just one thing" the more trouble you creating for yourself. Which brings me to the next point, the moringa in the worm bin, it's an awesome addition to the worm bin for sure, but the secret is balance and diversity. moderation of everything. when you get into KNF you'll see that you even add fungal shit and all kinds of fish juice and fermented fruits and grain juices and shit. there's a saying in organic cannabis growing that goes - stink in stink out, but obviously what kinda stink? obviously not rancid sour chemical smelling stuff. It's not always what you think it is or what seems the most straight forward. If you read somewhere about moringa, that's cool, but don't focus on it. Growing a moringa tree will take kak long before you can actually harvest from it sustainably. Infact the secret to a healthy worm bin is a healthy Carbon:Nitrogen ratio, not moringa. If you focus on moringa you may throw out the carbon to nitrogen ratio and create more harm than good. Some dry amendments out there are nutrient power punch products, you take clean coco/perlite add a hand full of the stuff snd it turns the soil into rich well balanced soil, thought that's not going to be the cheapest stuff on the shelf and to use stuff that strong you reeeeeally need to be ontop of your game, not for beginners kinda stuff.

Hahahah nice, yeah Ripper does proper work. What made you decide on them? I'm now leaning towards upping plant count in my small space and downscaling plant size, been itching to get a breeding project going more focussed on the craft than the seeds, but yeah space always the limiting factor. yeyeyeee what you got planned?

Awesome, glad you didn't use that ph stuff Now you just let them dry out till around 50% moisture (you can still use the probe thing for that) Once they reach better moisture levels and not stunted anymore they'll start to pick up speed, you'll notice the moisture levels in the soil fluctuating a lot more as the plant starts to grow faster and drinking more and more. Pro tip for these cold times, especially with smaller pots - I got a small fish tank air pump to aerate my water, also got filter water here, but I catch rain water when I can and it's been pouring down like a bitch down here so I got a lot now, but with it standing outside it gets cold as piss and even that'll stunt your plants, the smaller the plant the more affected by the cold, what I do is take a 20L bucket, fill it half way as I would with the filter water, but together with a fishtank airstone I submerge a fishtank heater to warm the water up to 30°C. your plants will do a happy dance for you The reason we saying get ready with the feed stuff is, well you can grow that plant in very low nutrient soil with just water all the way through but the plant will have a shit expression. You gotta be on your toes now, not to just feed the plant or pump as much nutes in it, but rather to maintain the balance ahead of time so the plant never reaches a point of having to show you that it needs something, while also not overdoing it Relying on bottled nutes, some people do it, but it's basically just a matter of time before you hit an imbalance. There is no single one nutrient to do it all on this earth, no product any man could ever make and put into a bottle would be "good enough" to maintain a natural balance. and we gotta remind ourself plants aren't machines so they don't act the way we program them, it's the other way around. They all eat different, one plant will use more N than the one next to it, as for the P and the K and all the rest. that's why when relying on bottled nutes you end up with a whole collection of 100 different bottles, couple R1000 deep. when the problem is actually just balancing the soil before even thinking of bottled nutes. You can get a nice balance with wormcastings, but then you gotta look at the quality of the worm casting too. I used to get the Wormbusch stuff but last couple times I got from them it was like 60% sand and looked absolutely nothing like wormcastings, so certain reputable brands aren't even consistent... I make my own worm castings now, so I don't know who got the best stuff these days. I would actually recommend Dirty Hands Elemental Blend as a top dress over anything, but if you can only do wormcastings then you can lean more on that, rather than the bottle stuff. What wormcastings you using? Sometimes best to use more than one kind of wormcasting to hit a wider variety of trace minerals and micro organisms. those are the balance keepers. you'll see once the balance is in check your NPK uptake becomes so easy to monitor, plant will already be thriving cause of the soil conditions and then only as the plant is eating and growing like a healthy plant should, you can give the bottle stuff that focuses more on the NPK and will keep up with the demands as the plant will be depleting the soil of those first. this is gona be tricky, I wish you goodluck bro it's hit or miss anyway, like with any rule of thumb, it's not to say things will go wrong every single time.

Oh shit yeah then you are lucky, but I do have to say that you're selecting good breeders too Have you ever tried, or thought of trying any Biltong and Buds, Victory Seeds, Bulk Seedbank or any of the more generic cheaper seeds? Reason I am asking is cause I've seen guys doing their first run with some biltong and buds seeds and hit a winner right off the bat, but I've been through quite a number of these cheaper seeds only to end up with pure It certainly is all about the luck of the draw, but the chances of luck goes way up when selecting the right breeders too. You plan to make any of your own seeds with those genetics you collecting?

Plants already looking much better brother! Just double checking, you say it's the first time growing autos, so I am assuming you grown photoperiods before? What made you go with autos this time? These last 2 to 3 years I have seen a massive influx of new growers going straight for growing autos. what is this all about? Growing autos is playing the game on expert mode, it really isn't for the beginners. I've been growing serious for about 5 years, but growing on and off for most of my life, never even tried an auto as I am 100% sure I'll fuck it up and even if I don't and get a perfect grow I'll still yield less than that same plant as a photoperiod PLUS I can clone photos so I don't completely waste money by having an underwhelming harvest, autos are one and done seeds, PLUS with photoperiods you can make fuckups and turn it all around, autos don't play way. PLUS photoperiods you can repot and fuck with the roots and change soil when you like and and and...... Makes the next bit so much harder, as someone already suggested you repot them, I was going to suggest that too, but they're autos..... some of the auto experts may have to jump in here, your best bet would probably be to continue on just like this, no repot, but always aim for 50% moisture in the soil. This is gona be tricky, coco doesn't wana dry out ever, it'll become negatively charged and basically become hydrophobic, coco needs to be kept wet at all times with your plants being in pure coco it seems logged and struggling for oxygen, you can't really open up the soil and add perite now, bit too late. so you have to now back off with the watering, BUT not let it dry out too far. around 50% moisture is when you water, but then you only water about 3 to 10% of the amount of the media (eg. 10L pot = 300ml to 1L, obviously depending on size of plant, small plant gets more around 300ml and big plant more around 1L, if 1L gets sucked up in less than 24hrs it's time to repot as plants are rootbound). If at any point your plant media doesn't go below 50% moisture in 24hrs it means you giving too much water. You aim for the 50% mark and aim to keep it there by giving minimal water every day. Your biggest problem right now is over saturated media and because of that also a lack of oxygen. Let them dry till around 50% moisture. Next watering you gona need to add organic material and microbes. Get some nice good quality wormcastings (not the first and cheapest bag you can find) for a topdress and any kinda microbial inoculant. Then look into a good nutrient line for that soil you got going there, but for future - If you new to soil building it's good to get some premium soil for your first grow as a control to see how things should look, also once done with the grow you got a good blend for a base to build on, you'll be left with a coco/perlite/organic blend that you just need to reamend, instead of having to building from zero as I am sure you have now seen that it's not as straight forward and that composition, texture and consistency all play a huge roll in soil building. eg. what you use to aerate, perlite and leca do the same thing, though there are different kinds and one works better than the rest, small details like this make huge impact in your soil, same as what kind of coco you using (cheap coco will give you what you pay for) so next time you're out of some ingredients, rather than shruggin your shoulders and thinking the plant has to listen to you and be happy with what you give it, instead you gotta think about the plant first and what it needs to be happy and what you need to do to make that happen. rather stand back, don't be in a hurry, makes for a much better experience over all. Just haaaaaave to say this - These two things you got here are doing you more harm than good - The 3way meter is helping you "van die wal af tot in die sloot". that thing will misslead you worse than the SA government. You can trust the moisture reading, then there's the light/dark thing..... so they could have just made it a single prong, they're out there too, but then again the PH reader is the most important part. I used to have one, can guarentee I fucked myself more than anything using that thing. Got proper bluelabs pens now, compared the two, where the blue labs gave 7.5ph reading, the prongs gave a 2. waaaaayy out. Thought both the things I'm using is wrong to a degree, had a buddy bring his ph pen, plus I bought the ph-reader drops - 3 readings giving 7.5 range and the prongs giving 2 still. on the way to the bin I broke the thing in pieces so no one goes digging in my trash thinking that's a good device to use. a good rule of thumb with the majority of tech stuff, the more that one appliance can do generally means the more gimmicky the thing is. You get digital PH readers that can also read the ppm and and and.... trust me, those aren't accurate either. they're more accurate for sure, but with PH where 0.1/0.2 can make a difference you really don't wana leave any room for mistakes. - never buy a mini fridge with a built in dvd player that can also toast your bread. you buy a fridge seperate, a dvd player seperate and a toaster seperate. good ph pen will cost you a bit, I can go on and on till I am blue in the face, but you can do the test yourself. get 2 people with cheapies that can do ph and ppm, then get 2 guys with proper tools, you can run the tests yourself and see why I would cough up a couple 1000 more just to have the good tools. The ph down is for hydro growers, if you're in an organic setup you use organic inputs to control ph (bakin soda for ph up and vinegar for ph down) though you basically never want to do this it will only be the last resort when your soil media is locked in an undesired ph range. Using this chemical ph down with organic media is a bit counter-intuitive as this stuff kills microbes, and microbes are looked at as the "nucleus" of organic growing. The straw that stirs the drink.

I keep missing whole threads Plants are looking great man, excited to see how they turn out!! Wish I knew about this back in 2018. My first time buying "reputable" seeds was from Trophy. All seeds in Trophy tins with a paper inside and the seed info hand written on the paper. Went from over excited to blood boiling as all I have been hearing is the first dodgy activity to look out for when buying seeds is that it should be sealed in the breeder packs. Got Ethos, Barneys Farm, Dutch Passion and Seedsman. Contacted them, they asured me if I buy 10xseed packs I get original breeder packaging, but cause they're singles they have to open bulk packs and repackage them. Couldn't argue that till I saw what the weed looked like, the seeds I carried through to harvest turned out to be legit without a doubt so I always gave them good word of mouth. Out of 9 seeds only 2 of the Ethos didn't pop. Scrapped up the duds to my own level of experience, since it was my first time working with seeds that came from somewhere else in the world, I convinced myself the more expensive seeds demand for more maticulous environmental conditions, cause of their higher standards they been getting used to in the breeders setup. I should have just asked for replacements

Damn man another amazing batch done, you really pumping full gear, amazing work as always! Just goes to show what the phrase "reputable breeder" really means! Never seen you posting mids or even anything close to sub par. You really don't have to do any digging at all to find a good pheno when selecting the right seeds. Did you clone them all to select a keeper or how do you plan future grows with the new genetics? If I remember correctly you ran your zurple punch pheno quite a few times?

Hey @Simeon We gona need a lot more info Is the 400w coming from a qb configuration with all the diodes in one place that's directly above the plants (how many plants?? how far spread out?) if a bar style configuration is in use with the diodes spread out far and wide and no concentrated focus point where light is coming from it may all have an impact on the answer. what I see + what you saying = It may actually be light, cause 400w at a distance of 28cm for seedling/todlers is overkill for sure, even from a bar light - but what do you mean normal LED? Is it a floodlight? not a growlight? Gona give a long answer PAR on the leaf surface is what we focus on and it's measured in micromols per second, when measuring PAR at your canopy level you aim for round about 500micromol per second during seedling/veg stage moving all the way up as you hit late flower maxing out at just over 1000micromol per second, and then obviously as PAR increases the Kelvin Spectrum decreases, starting with higher 5000 to 6000K (white light) during seedling/veg stage and lowering all the way down to 3000K (yellow light) during flower. the reason for all this is the plant absorbs different light differently at different stages throughout its life. meaning, more light isn't always good, sometimes you got just the right amount of light but it's the wrong kind, like the spectrum is out and and and... so you pumping 400w (which is already too much) of what Kelvin? may also be out. To achieve around 500micromol (can be bit above or bit below) on your leaf surface you can still get away with round about 50w at your stage. around 5000k will be best. even a CFL with those specs will work for you right now. I focus on the light first, cause that's what you asked about, but with all that was just said, I actually saw something completely different right off the bat. Cannabis plants are so much more flexible with their environmental conditions above ground that you can really manipulate and do all kinds of crazy stuff with them above ground, as long as below the ground everythings as it should be. You can just raise your light a little and all should be fine in that regard, IF everything below the soil is fine. First gotta ask if it's an auto or photoperiod plant? Autos stress when you fart near them, any kinda stress will have greater impact. I would say your stress is root zone related by the looks of it, usually the worst time to deal with achieving perfect moisture levels is during seeling stage. Big plant you can over water and under water - no biggy. With seedlings just a few drops of water extra or too few drops of water can be a killer, too long wet without dry period can be a killer, too little oxygen by the roots can be a killer...a good estimated 90% the time when a plant dies of pythium (root rot) is during seedling stage. at that stage we just call it drowing/suffocating a baby. pythium happens a lot in hydro setups that have poor oxygen in the water, but in all cases seedlings are more susceptible to any kinda undesirable conditions. Anyway, looking at your photos, it looks like you're in pure coco? correct me if I am wrong here. It seems completely saturated. Back to - we gona need a lot more info - what's your watering regime? what kinda water you using? what are your other environmental conditions like (eg. FAE allows stable RH for plant media to not stay saturated for too long, if you water and plant stays wet for a week something is wrong) do you let the soil dry before watering? do you use nutrients at all and what kind? (synthetic / organic) do you water/feed till runoff? do you pour the runoff out or let the plant soak up runoff?

woah nice work man holy shit 1000w veg light, how big is the flower light gona be I found when building my LED that the wiring and all that is like a monkey puzzle - connect the dots. I followed the LEDgardener guides, made it easy as pie. Love the diy man

Plants are looking great brother!!

Hey bud. naaaaah, no need to kill them you still getting weed from them even though the weed will have seeds, I am sure you are ok with few seeds in your buds? Other plants might be at risk too, not cause of the one making seeds, but because of what ever factor is contributing to those making the seeds. if it's pollen coming through your bug barriers then all plants are at risk, if you see nanners all plants are at risk. can never dictate where the pollen will fall. the ball sac we talking bout is 2 different things. you talking bout the "calyx" where the seed forms. I am talking bout pure male flower will throw balls, they're little pollen sacs, so I call em ball sacs, they are bunches of those nanners that haven't opened yet, this is what I am talking about - nr.1 - ball sac (pollen sac) not a sack with the K like a bag, sac means something else cause sometimes the pollen is in a tube or on a stamen or in a cup, every plants anatomy is different, but all pollen carriers have pollen sacs, kinda just refferes to where the pollen is kept inside the plant. nr.2 - the pollen sac opened and exposed the nanners, the nanners are the little banana-like looking things inside the ball sac, those nanners releasing the pollen. If you see a plant throw nanners alone it's something different than a plant that went hermie. but yeah, in your case I would try get all stray lights out, then try run a photoperiod plant. as soon as you're able to you clone the shit out of the plant to make replicas, you run that plant as a control test and if things go wrong you have replicas of the exact same phenotype to run again and again, as a control to see where you hitting problem areas. I am a good comfortable 75 to 90% sure that the issues you're having with your plants is cause it's autos. autos stress like a bitch, one tiny wrong move and they show you the finger. photo periods, even with loadshedding, would have given you much more weed and much less stress. and if you hit a wall, photoperiods can be turned around right before their grave. autos don't even want one hickup. I get loadshedding I still fill my tents with buds wall to wall, cause I grow photoperiods. the auto movement and the push for beginners to begin with autos cause "they're easier" is absolute bullshit. it's the same as the first time you put a new game on you wana play on expert mode. you'll see, run a photoperiod as control plant - it'll help you identify problems in your tent + you'll get WAY more weed + photos are way more forgiving allowing for more mistakes or environment that's not dialed in.

bunch of local breeders on instagram doing some craaaaaaaaazy stuff too, keep an eye on that thread Igrowdagga got going, he is growing out some local

that's very true, genetics play a huge roll. with photoperiods you can run a clone again and again to see if you can get different results, but the one and done thing with autos you will never really know unless you know how stable the genetic is. I think most of the seed banks that "breed their own" seeds that have many different strains they are calling their own that we have all seen everywhere before. eg. local SeedBankX will have an auto girl scout cookie for sale in their packaging, but they did not actually breed that genetic, cause we all know it to be something that already exists. They also can't open a pack of Ripper seeds and throw the seeds into a pack with their name on it and call it their own, infact they will loose money also as these seeds are relatively cheaper than the legit stuff from the reputed breeders such as Ripper, Inhouse, Compound, Square1, Riot. a lot of the US guys got the legit shit. these local big time seed bank guys with bulk bulk sales and ALL the strains make F1's or just do small pheno hunts, select the winner and BX it and sell those seeds for cheap, at least it's better than F1's, but a lot of times they kinda just "pollen chuck" and hope for the best. no way you can do legit work on that scale so quick, plus the names give it away. our local master breeder here is Totemic, look at is work, you'll see new strain names cause it's his own crosses and he works one or two strains at a time till he feels good about it, not 100 strains all at once and just one pollen chuck and done. I've grown out some biltong and buds photoperiods under the sun, their setup us a good example. Just before I started growing indoor. Phenos didn't look anything alike. was just some average weed, not even good weed. grew about 10 different seeds of the same strain before I gave up on digging for a good pheno. don't get me wrong, some guy somewhere got a pack of BnB and he got a winner pheno, probably a few people, but those guys got lucky.

aaaaah brother I am sorry to hear that. at least you still yielding and gona have some smoke to enjoy yeah, now it's about narrowing down the possibilities of what could lead to this. do you see nanners or just seeds? a plant wont go directly to making seeds from stress, needs pollen to start that process, hemie will throw ball sacs like males, those ball sacs are nanners that haven't opened. if you don't see any signs of hermie then the pollen is coming from somewhere else. remember tents with negative pressure suck dust in, so if any stray pollen is in the air or on you or your clothes when going into the then you could knock up indoor plants. - when your tent is closed and the sides suck in =negative pressure. people combat this by closing all passive intakes and running the same size inline fan into the tent as going out to keep a possitive pressure, but then you gotta filter the air intake with a carbon filter as pollen still gets through normal air filters. I am glad you mention the L/HST, because any kinda stress is 10 fold on a auto, just cause you see or hear of one guy stressing an auto and it doesn't make seeds doesn't mean that will be in all cases. like the dude with the auto that showed you he trained his so yours should be fine, that's just not the way the plants work. the general consensus on autos - to get the best out of them you don't stress them- so a double negative here is that potentially if that dude didn't stress his he might have had even better results, and the other being what I mentioned before about the exception doesn't make the rule, the guy who stresses his and gets away with it is an exception, doesn't mean all autos will be fine with the same treatment. if you see hermie/nanner signs and it's confined to one branch or bud or area of the plant = stray light if you see hermie/nanner signs all over the plant it's light intensity, usually it'll be more at the top sites. in both situations it could also be something else. the reason a plant will try to revert in order to reproduce is because it feels threatened enough to have to forcefully make more of itself to carry on it's lineage. this could be rootzone related problems, a plants rhizosphere is like the gut of a human, when talking human microbiome it refers to your gut health, when talking plant microbiome you talking rootzone, if the microbiome is out of balance, meaning PH is off for too long or EC is way out you may cause a plant to hermie that way. rootburn during flower caused by salt build up will lead to nutrient lockout and cause this too... so many things to look at and tick off, but luckily now you already got stray lights sorted out.

Awesome! I had a chat with him, wanted to get in on those, but I am backlogged and will only get to the seeds by end of the year and that's not gona work with his time frame. Will reach out to him again once I got space, by then there will probably be something new on the scene. Goodluck with the grow brother hope you get a keeper or two!

Only a pleasure bud hahah yeah people really don't mention it often enough, but don't stress too much, it's like when you're a kid and your parents tell you not to go swimming in the rain or you'll get sick, but then you do it anyway and you don't get sick. this is when the old saying of "the exception doesn't make the rule" comes into play, cause it sure does increase your chances. just cause you didn't get sick that one time doesn't mean you'll never get sick, if you keep doing it, it will get you. I may be mistaken here, but I think in a lot of cases with plants making nanners cause of stress the pollen will be less and less viable, but will still knock up the plant. seeds will be much less, a lot of times the plant just starts forming the seed shell so it's a bunch of soft green seeds (which can be more of a headache than fully formed seeds) some seeds will form but will be duds and then there will be some seeds that are fully viable all depending on the genetics, how stable the female is and at what point did what take place all that stuff. I have heard of guys plucking nanners with twiesers as soon as they see them, but then you gotta narrow down why the plant is making them.

Yeah, autos are much less light cycle dependant, but just keep in mind a light cycle is something different than stray light. a Stray light wont be enough to make the plant think it's lights on mode and rather cause stress on one spot. You are right a lot of things can cause a plant to hermie, but you'll notice if a plant is somewhere between mid to late flower and it's a - it's only this one bud that's making nanners - situation it's most likely stray light hitting that spot. if you got more than one fem plant in a tent and one is throwing nanners and it's on all buds it's something else. plants even do this when everything is 100% but just left a little too long. the important part is to reduce the chances of anything going wrong, since we can't pin point exactly what and where things will go wrong we just reduce the chances of it going wrong. with the light cycle thing, the Rederalis trait that we look at as "auto", comes from a gene pool found in Russia. They have looong winter there and extremely short days during winter and besides that when the sun shines it's cloudy so very little sun light hits any part of the eastern European countries, this is what made the plant over generations adapt to the flower mode right from the start no veg time trait, cause it's the long summer days and clear sunny skies we make use of to veg and when winter hits we flower, in Russia their summer is like our winter, so the cannabis plant never got to veg there and adapted to it. If you take that into consideration and look at an indoor setup it would make sense that less light and shorter light cycles and colder temps will make autos perform better, but then again they are all hybrids and a lot of people have tried all kinds of ways with autos, it seems somewhere between 18/6 and 12/12 is best as that's what the bigger part of the species is familiar with.