Jump to content


Regular Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Trichome last won the day on August 19 2023

Trichome had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Trichome's Achievements


Apprentice (3/14)

  • One Year In
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Reacting Well

Recent Badges



  1. Thanks yeah that’s more or less what I figured! Main thing is I just don’t want too much N available in flower. I read about growers transplanting into fresh soil the same as they used for veg and never reported issues but being a synthetic fert guy myself except for two organic soil grows usually I would avoid too much N in flower like the plague especially since this soil I’m guessing is designed fir a fairly lengthy veg time and then flowering with some amendments .Guess I don’t have much choice anyway as I don’t want to go the liquid fert route with this grow unless it’s to correct a deficiency! Appreciate the input!
  2. I’m looking for some advice on something I’ve never done before. I’ve started some feminized Indicas indoors and plan on moving them outdoors to flower as electricity cost is too high for me to complete the grow indoors.So right now the plants are in 2 liter fabric bags with Orgasoilux super soil and will be transplanted to either 15 or 20 liter fabric bags and given supplemental lighting to extend the veg period by a week or so. My question is this.Since I will be transplanting into a much bigger volume of fresh soil and flowering quite soon afterwards,won’t the soil have too much Nitrogen for flowering?The reason I ask this is because much of the available N will not have been ‘used up’ by the time flowering is initiated.I should add that this soil has been sitting unused in the bags since my last outdoor grow 15 months ago so nutrients have probably broken down nicely by now. Maybe I’m overthinking this I don’t know!
  3. As new condition Gib FS 630 full spectrum led.Purchased in Sept 2023 and used once in a 1.5x1.5m tent with superb results.Reason for selling is that I will be starting my plants indoors under the 120watt light I have and growing outdoors in the future and have no need for this large light.My loss is your gain.Will ship anywhere in S.A at buyers expense.
  4. I am indeed using the TA,I started with Canna but didn’t like the fact that their N is pretty high and you can’t really adjust it for flower. That’s what I was looking for III_Evan. Are you also in Coco with TA nutes? Sounds like it!
  5. Here’s one for you experienced coco growers.How would you handle changing the nutrient ratio from grow to bloom or pre bloom in 20L hand watered fabric grow bags with a 70/30 coco perlite mix? It’s a huge volume to change! My thoughts were to flush a lot more than usual fertigations through the medium at full strength but maybe a more gradual approach would be better? Obviously this is much easier in soil where you have dry down periods whereas coco is usually 90% saturated most of the time thereby diluting anything different ratio wise.
  6. That’s entirely possible! I did flush about a week ago with a weak nute solution when I had the light burn on the tips.I thought it was a lock out. I figured the weak solution would’ve washed out by now after 14 fertigations at over 1.2ec. I’m using Canna Coco pro plus,it’s supposed to be quite aggressively buffered but I guess it’s always possible a batch slipped through with no buffering.I did have to fight a magnesium deficiency in the seedling stage!
  7. Thanks,that makes sense.I’m guessing these plants must be really hungry!
  8. This is my first indoor grow with Coco.Plants are in week three of veg in 2.5L fabric bags.Using Canna Coco nutes at EC 1.2 at two fertigations per day approximately 10 hours apart. Plants are looking pretty good after trial and error getting my 630watt bar type led at the correct height.They were getting too much light at 300 umols with yellow tips on new growth. Thankfully I realised after searching online what was happening and dimmed the light appropriately. So my issue is that although my plants look pretty good the growth is a bit slow.I have noticed every time I check runoff it is always much lower than my inflow.Going in at 1.25 EC and coming out at .44 Any coco growers with experience out there care to offer your thoughts?
  9. Are you using perlite in your Coco/mix? I’m using coco in bags too and at the moment they are staying fairly wet towards the bottom.Mainly because temps have been lower and the plants are not transpiring much! Also I think the water/fert column moves slowly down by gravity just like any container,you just don’t see it in a rigid container. as long as you have enough drainage in your medium you should be fine.I do a 60/30 coco perlite mix and once the roots are coming out the bottom they dry fairly quickly.
  10. Well thanks again to all who responded with great information on this thread.I have learned a ton from all of you about soil growing outdoors,I don’t think I’ll ever go back to Hydro but I still may combine some synthetic with organic now and then. .I’m happy to say my plants;two Jack Herer,two Super Skunk and two Durban Poison are coming along nicely and some will be ready for harvest in about three weeks and some longer.I don’t think I grew these plants to anywhere near their true genetic potential but having said that I think the yield will be respectable considering my container sizes! Here’s a pic from today of the most mature of my two Jack Herer plants.
  11. This is only for people who are running the biobizz schedule, a lot of people using super soil or ammended soil can't really use these steps as it might cause more problems than anythingThis is only for people who are running the biobizz schedule, a lot of people using super soil or ammended soil can't really use these steps as it might cause more problems than anything @Naughty.Psychonaut I think what you said here is key but since I was seeing signs of deficiency before ever starting the Biobizz I put it down to the reasoning that my roots had completely filled the medium and had depleted the soil.I think not having more space for the roots and thereby access to more nutrients is what caused me to run into a situation where I had to move fast.Adding a top dressing would be too slow to fix anything I think even if I had some compost tea or whatever! Thanks again for all your help.I definitely have some good information to digest! This way of growing is a learning curve but It’s starting to sink in! I’ve come to the conclusion that the super soil route is definitely not for small grows in small containers. I’m thinking very big fabric bags next time around and all living soil grow in spring
  12. If any of you guys are still checking in on this thread It’d be great to hear opinions on the two main ‘super soil’ blends on the market from those with experience using them.At some point I’d like to try my hand at making my own soil but only when I understand the estimated break down of various amendments in the soil and time frame of availability to the plant better.
  13. @ Naughty Psychonaut Thanks for the detailed info.I do think maybe part of my problem is I’ve been letting my soil get too dry between watering.In doors in potting soil with synthetic nutes I always used to let them get nice and dry between watering and then water with about 20%run off just before they started to wilt.Obviously this ‘living soil’ deal is quit a bit different.I’m definitely gun shy now when it comes to using bottled organic nutrients.It seems obvious to me now that plenty of soil and careful,measured watering is the way to go and also to only use the bottled stuff when the plant shows signs of needing nutrients. I loved the Freedom farms seedling mix as my seedlings did so well in it!
  • Create New...