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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    ya they went back down almost immediately, defs not on the plants. they only came up because I completely saturated the pot with water
  2. 2 points
    @Kgrows those are arthropods, most likely springtails, they are too cool, love the white one. They are beneficial buggos that live in the soil helping to break down the matter in there, if you wanted to be living soil, thats the right stuff. I would not disturb them. There are loads of different kinds (There are about 3,600 different species), always in the compost. You can read more about em here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Springtail
  3. 2 points
    So my cloner is pretty much the same except for the stems in the water... I keep the stems suspended a few mm above the water surface and let the bubbles pop and spit onto the stems... This keeps them moist, but not soaking.. Like this I can see roots in as little as 3 days from cutting it off the plant.. Check out PsyCLowns bubbler cloner... It's the same everything as mine... And he just got roots in under a week with no rooting hormone at all😉 @PsyCLown
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  6. 2 points
    It took a bit longer than expected, probably because of the low ambient temperature despite the fish tank heater in the water. But good results, 100% of the 14 clones grew. I've given away a few and trashed a couple who's mothers were actually fathers. Below is a pic of what the roots look like, I'm potting the remaining ones today
  7. 1 point
    My previous attempt to build a cloner was ok-ish but it was a bit of a pain to work with. I've just thrown together a different and very DIY one and I'm pretty happy with the results The biggest issue I had was the polystyrene holders for the clones. This time I used a foam knee pad as the base. I cut circles in it by using the bottom of a silicone tube, even the hole making is DIY... I drilled a hole in each foam disk, and cut from the centre to one edge. This make a perfect holder for the stems and is easy to put back in the hole. The final result looks like this The bottom container is filled with water Fish tank heater Air pump and two large air stones - the bubbler part The foam pad rests on the water, so the stems are submerged Clear container of the same size used as the humidity dome Low wattage CFL light, resting on the block of wood to keep the heat of of the box I've just planted cloned a few of the plants, so I'm hoping I'll be seeing roots in about a week.
  8. 1 point
    Sup peeps! while flushing to correct ph, a few things came out of my medium. these pots have a layer of compost in them, which i'm guessing is where they came from, good or bad sign? good or bad insect? if bad, could they have spread to my other plants & how do i get rid of them if i need to?
  9. 1 point
    Not really. Was just thinking. I stuffed up my light cycle with adding another light in my tent. Kept the 12 hour dark cycle so now my light schedule is different than before. But it is all good again now. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk
  10. 1 point
    From what I have read, as long as you have regular dark schedules and not jumbled it should be fine, so an 18/12 for flowering should work. Lights will be on more often so you can expect a jump in electricity. From what I have read... You can get a 15-30% increase in yeilds. At the cost of adjusting to a 30 hour light cycle to do maintenance and things you need to do. Are you thinking about trying?
  11. 1 point
    @Dank shot bru! I thought it may have been a part of the web, was more concerned that they were root aphids or something similar.
  12. 1 point
    ya that makes more sense. I haven't tried that tbh, my main issue would be having dark period during the day. Having to manually adjust your timer every day will be a pain in the ass
  13. 1 point
    What I mean is 30 hour cycle, 18/12 for instance. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk
  14. 1 point
    @SkunkPharm you cant really give more than 24hrs of light, 24hrs means its on all the time
  15. 1 point
    When I made the first version I looked around and could not find any solid advice on in vs out of the water. I ended up going with in the water because I was not getting enough bubbles to keep the stems wet. It has worked really well actually, so far I'd guess about 19/20 clones succeeded. I've got three more that I've just put into coco so hopefully that is another three successfully cloned. The did take really long to start rooting this time though, I'm assuming because its winter. I'd say about 7-10 days for the root nubs to start and then another 5 before there was enough of a root to justify planting them out. I do have a fishtank heater in the water, but that can only do so much. I think next time I clone a few I'll see if keeping the lid open sooner helps the growth get started. What are your timelines / process like?
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    yeah dont call it too soon, it will be very obvious if its a male in due time, then just carefully take that plant out and let the ladies be lesbian 😄yeah dont call it too soon, it will be very obvious if its a male in due time, then just carefully take that plant out and let the ladies be lesbian 😄
  18. 1 point
    Here we go, cobs in place, but still needs to be mounted. Had to dismantle my first prototype, using the COBs on this newly made cooler. Wattage upped to 750w with the addition of 220v 50w cob. Breakdown as folkows: 4 x 100w 220v 5 x 50w 12v 2 x 50w 220v Ive left enough space between the back fins to add more if needed, but hopefully the current fins will be enough. That's it for the morning, will probably finish it off this evening. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
  19. 1 point
    Oh ok. Does look a lot better. That tip burn situation is usually low ph or salt buildup but doesn't seem thats the issue here. Try measuring your runoff ec. If its higher than whats going in there may be an issue. Paul
  20. 1 point
    I have never sent weed via post, I do not think it is a great idea either especially considering I am not sure how legal it is. If you really have to, I'd consider the following to try be on the safe side. Last thing you want is a seized package and police rocking up at your place. 1. Vacuum pack it, then vacuum pack it again - do this as close to shipping as possible as the smell will start to permeate the packaging and will get worse with time. 2. Purchase some coffee beans and put the vacuum packed bud inside there - my thinking being to try and help mask the scent from any of the courier employees as once it has left your hands you have no control over the parcel. 3. Take the fastest shipping available, same day or overnight. The less time it spends with the couriers the safer IMO, also the smell will continue to permeate the vacuum packaging as time goes by. That is my 2c, it may be overkill and unnecessary though. If you really have a lot of excess, consider doing some extracts for him as well. Some dab for example.
  21. 1 point
    PAXI at Pep is pretty cost effective
  22. 1 point
    Just to add, its definitely not an iron deficiency. The most common cause of iron deficiency is poor drainage and waterlogged roots. (EHG Micro has plenty of iron, that's where the brown colour comes from.) Because iron is not a mobile nutrient in the plant you'll notice it first in the new growth and not the leaf tips. Also, I am assuming your coco was well washed before you used it? In my experience MOST coco is very salty regardless of what the manufacturers say and that is particularly true of the 5kg blocks. Your runoff ec will give a clue as to whether that's the problem. Paul
  23. 1 point
    Hi. Not registered on this forum but was referred to your post. I see you are using our nutrients. That being the case you don't have a nutrient based deficiency meaning the nutes are not the basis for the problem. Other factors can manifest as a deficiency because the plant's uptake is being hindered by something. At your ecs it's probably not an overfeeding issue. Unfortunately these problems can be difficult to diagnose but looking at your leaf tips it may be a potassium deficiency which is often caused by ph being too low. Try watering with ph neutral water and measure your runoff ph. Measure your runoff ec as well but as I said that's unlikely. Coco is a good medium but can be prone to low ph issues. Runoff values are a valuable indication of what's happening in your medium. If you're using a ph meter has it been calibrated? Will try and register on this forum but sometimes get irritated with these things. Can also be contacted via the ehg website info email. Paul EHG
  24. 1 point
    Depends on how many amps the 400w draws and what voltage you have at your place ( Magnetic pull more than digital) . You need those to figures to work out accurately what it pulls. Standard in sa is 220v but it doesn't mean you have 220 at your place , I have 240v for example. Once you have amps and voltage it's easy to work you the kw/h it draws , 1 unit of power is 1 kw/h of electricity Cheers Glo Ps . Didn't see 420sa post , basicly the same idea and really easy to calculate
  25. 1 point
    Having an oscillating fan keeps the air circulating nicely allowing Co2 to be taken up by the plants more efficiently. In really small places that might not be such an issue though but I would still have a fan in there of some sort just to move the air around. A fan also ensures stronger stems and branches as the plant adapts to endure the 'winds'
  26. 1 point
    Hello folks As many organic growers will know, weed or veggies, Worm castings(worm poop) otherwise known as vermicompost is an essential ingredient in your soil mix. Reason being it has a very rich and vast nutrient content. To produce worm castings you need a worm farm and the beauty is that you can get your own worm farm going at home very quickly with minimal effort and not too much damage on the wallet. After doing a lot research on DIY worm bins I've gone with the pretty standard stackable setup consisting of 3 bins stacked upon each other. I've made some tweaks of my own. All the equipment cost me about R430-00 including the worms and I will never need to spend another cent as all you need to do is feed them your kitchen scraps and paper. This is what you'll need to get, or use if you're lucky enough to have some items already at home: 3 stackable containers. Tote containers are commonly used . I use the 45L one's. It is possible to start with 2 for the first month or two. You must also have at least 1 lid. R240-00 Screw In Tap R25-00 A Drill Drill Bits Shade Netting. Enough to cover the base of one container and for use as vents About R40-00 A Glue Gun. Glue will do fine otherwise Newspaper for bedding Handful of potting soil Earthworms(Red Wrigglers) - 400 or more - I get 600 for R150-00 Some left over veggie scraps. Or buy some chopped butternut Ok let's get started! First we'll start off with the bottom container. This container will be used to collect all the liquid run off from the upper containers. This liquid is known as Worm Tea(lid wont be needed for this container) Drill a hole in the side of the container at the bottom to fit the Screw In Tap Screw in the Tap and make sure the fit is nice and tight Use some silicon sealant to seal off the tap and prevent any leakage And that's your bottom container sorted!! Now onto the 2nd Container. For now this will house the worms, their bedding and their food which they will be composting Drill holes into the bottom of the container. I used a 2mm drill bit and drilled roughly 25 holes. You could actually drill more. edit: After experience I realised theses holes were too small and so I drilled new 8mm holes Cut a piece of shade netting to size that will cover the base of the inside of the container. This to prevent the worms from getting through the bottom holes and into the bottom container Glue the shade netting to the base with a glue gun The end result looking something like this... The shade netting ensures the worms don't crawl through the bottom holes falling into the worm tea below. Now cut a hole in both long sides of the container to use as vents. Cut shade netting to size and glue over the holes you cut Drill holes into the lid. I used a 4mm bit for these holes Fill the 2nd container with moist but not soaking shredded newspaper. Shred the newspaper, soak in water, wring it and then place into the the container. Filling it up to just below half way with newspaper, chuck in the handful of soil and throw in your kitchen scraps and mix it up. Don't put too much food for now. Some shredded butternut is a great kickstarter for the worms apparently. Place your worms in the bedding, covering them up a bit. Slip the 2nd container into the bottom container, stick on the lid and there you go, your worm farm is up and running!! The idea is for the worms to eat up the food as well as the newspaper bedding which they in turn covert into compost which remains in the bins for you to collect. Keep monitoring your bin and feed the worms when you notice the food being eaten up. Worms double their population every 3 months so the feeding rate will most certainly go up. Also keep stocking up with moist scrap paper and newspaper. Once the worms have consumed the majority of the food and bedding in the 2nd container, a 3rd container with relatively large holes drilled in the bottom will be placed on top of the 2nd container, directly on top of the bedding. More food and bedding will be placed inside the 3rd container and as the worms will run out food in the 2nd container, they will migrate upwards to the 3rd container leaving worm castings in the 2nd container which you can then harvest. After the castings have been harvested from the 2nd container, the worms and bedding in the 3rd container will be transferred back into the 2nd container for the process to repeat. Be sure to make use of the worm tea that collects in the bottom container as it makes for a great soluble fertiliser. I will be making amendments as time goes by however I'm no expert on this matter and welcome input from members who have more experience with worm farming. Good luck with your wormy farming!
  27. 1 point
    So I've been busy this weekend, and since I'd like to run this cab in day light hours if necessary, and with the summer month's still ahead of us, I decided to convert my wing reflector into a cooled hood. Took me about 6 solid hours of work, and about R400 in parts. So far, I'm really happy.
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