Naughty.Psychonaut

Die Kaas Kapital is vrek

Sheeeeeeeeeesh

Hi @Jacquesd183 hope all is well on your side The black is a presence of Anthocyanins, they show up in times of stress, more so light stress. (not the light you put on, I mean light as in -not heavy-) usually it's more related to cold weather. when the temperatures of your grow space go below a certain °C it'll throw out Anthocyanins. Some other triggers too, such as root zone problems. Nature, as things naturally happen, shows more rapid growth during summer/spring when things are warmer. When things cool down, they also slow down. Obviously this means, less watering, and you have to add the fact that there will be less evaporation during cold, so anything that's wet stays wet for longer. If that's the case you also have to reduce feeding as you can very easily over feed a plant that's on a slow mo mode. From what I can see all I can say is - I think it may be root zone related. That doesn't narrow it down too much really, because I can still be wrong. The thing is with plant diagnosis', even if you see something you're 100% sure of what it is, it's next to impossible to ever just see a plant once and make a diagnosis without the right information on the background. Like when a person goes to the GP, you don't run in and they hit you with a box of pills and then you good. It doesn't work like that. You sit with the GP and he will ask "Ok, so what got you here, did you eat something and then get sick? Did you run around in the cold rain for too long? Did you take any medication? Did you get bitten by something? Did you...... bla bla bla whatever they ask. Cause the immediate history, or the more current events surrounding "the problem" will give all indication as to what the proper diagnosis would be. Same with your plant, you have to tell us what you doing to get it there. Why you saying Nitrogen, like what is making you say that? You being heavy handed with nutes? You gotta tell us what you feed, how often you feed, how much per feeding. What soil/medium you growing (organics and synthetics are worlds apart, issues and diagnosis' are all different) we gotta know all that shit before we can say what you doing wrong there. The reality is that you may see 1 thing, but there are at least 10 or more problems that can show that response and it's the same as with every plant problem. For example, the most common one, is nutrient lock out. People will gooi with the feeding, then see the plant showing deficiencies, so they gooi even more and more nutes. Meanwhile, the roots have burnt and now locked out certain nutes. So it's a catch 22. You'll only pick up on that if you really know what you doing, or if you don't a runoff EC test will tell you if you over feed or under feed. Keeping in mind that EC for organics and synthetics differ again, so here it comes back to what kinda growing you doing there. what nutes you used and how much of it. and we could still be wrong, cause it may be something other than nutrient/root zone related. hows your fan setup? not blowing directly on the plant? environment is key. also, spots that look like they form circles or small seperate "colonies" usually indicate a living thing, such as a fungus. I feel like I almost see a pattern on that leaf with the spots, check out Leaf Septoria. This happens from too much moisture in the air. This ties in with everything else I said, if your soil is too wet too long, gona cause septoria, roots and everything will slow down and cool down and nute uptake will slow down..... yeah.... so you gotta first give us a better run down of what you doing over there. This "guru saw my plant and immediately knew what's wrong" is complete bullshit, the more someone wants to sound like a guru with minimal background the more full of shit they are.

Contact Dagga Farmacy. Natie, the founder, and his son is currently traveling all over SA and with each journey they announce self deliviries or courier options, so they do spread far and wide. Natie is a guru, true to the plant through and through. He's been in this industry longer than most. He's one of the lecturers for Cheeba in many of their courses, he got his fingers in the start up of Qure Analytics, Dagga Famracy is also protected by FOGFA, who's also protected by SAHPRA. Majority of their strains are phenohunted and they always have new stuff they still working through. Dagga Farmacy gotta be one of the most legit clone suppliers in SA. All the other names just come and go, fluctuating reports and strange service situations. They're a family run business, about a 1 min drive from my house, been there more times than I can count. You can contact them and chat with them if you wana know more about the background of their stuff, nothing but love and passion for thw plant there. Here's their current availability list blowing any competition right out the water, and it gets updated weekly, they mean business. You can even buy ready to flower sized plants.

you CPT or JHB side?

We in Kaas Stad, so I know there's a bunch, but besides the SC cut from Dagga Farmacy, anyone on CPT side that's got a different cheese cut? Looking for a Big Buddha or Exodus if possible.

finishing up, last 2 weeks for the 1st to go #2 & #4 first to fade #3 will be next #1 & #5 will be last photo of #4

that's why they say "if you can smell the terps you are loosing the terps"

heheh I mean like the details of the bud, I can't see cz it's so far away and if I could see it up close I still need to see what it looked like 3 years ago too. but nevermind it's just observation, it wouldn't have much of a impact. aaaaah the 9 months, I keep that in mind, it's new info to me, but yeah I knew it was a fine line. I guess, that's probably what the book say, but we all know reality is a bit different, and it's very logical to assume that not every strain will be exactly the same. I have smoked 1 year old weed that tasted better than it did at 5 months. 1 year is more than 9 months, so how could that be? It doesn't correlate with the 9 months thing. I also see you say the 3 yeard old weed also still taste amazing but you also say 9 months is peak then it start decomposing. now I am left scratching my head even more but again, nevermind all that, doesn't have impact on me I'm just making observations and noting them. I do agree that a cure is only for smootheness, not increased terps. In fact the terps reduce, like we all know - they're volatile. so they don't "decompose" they literally "evaporate" the chemical interaction with oxygen, certain temperatures make them release gas into the air and this is what reduces quality. you know that the quality degrades because the terps have evaporated. the trichome glands that used to be clear/milky are all amber now. so basically knowing the 9 month thing people should never cure for over 9 months?

Did I miss the mention if this is organic or synthetic? I can give info till I am blue in the face, I'll just leave it here, but your top soil is where your feeder roots are and the bottom soil is where the drinker roots go. a plant naturally takes more nutrients through the roots closer to the top, because that's how nature works. top soil is where decomposition happens, most life and nutrients in the top soil, so letting top soil dry out is literally just for synthetic hydro growers with inert media. not organic growers. organic growers make a unwanted situation when letting top soil dry out. that's why we use stuff like mulch or cover crops. hydro growers focus on the capilary action of their media, meaning if they bottom water the top should still get wet by soaking the water up all the way and they also cover the tops of their pots to avoid top transpiration so the media doesn't dry out, cause that will cause the nutrients to recrystalise and burn the roots. basically there is never a good time to let soil dry out besides when you over watered. still then you don't let it go bone dry, you let it go to about 50% and then change practice to avoid same problem. Organic growers soil too dry kill microbes and your primary focus in organic growing is microbes. (microbes obviously live where most microbial activity is = top soil) Synthetic growers letting their soil dry out too much risking recrystalising of nutrients. What helps in both situations is watering less, but more frequently. hydro situation flood and drain quicker or let the drips run for shorter time but more frequent. to me it sounds like your brother is hand watering, I do that too, I got 30L pots with mature plants in, they never get more than 500ml water per pot, but that's every day. sometimes less, but never more. Don't wanter a whole lot at once then let it sit like that for a week, that's also damaging. Big up and down fluctuations cause more bad than good, you want a consistent moisture situation in the soil. not soaking and then drying. aim for 50% moisture, keep it there. safer to go on the lower side than the higher side. fixing the water problem will already do a whole lot in fixing the bug issue, but won't resolve it. Just closing the grow room will do wonders too, even besides just the bugs. You need environment to stabilise. leaving a door open too long isn't just attracting bugs. They make tents with viewing windows although I don't use mine, but it's for the purpose of not having to open the grow space when not needed. when you got work to do it's best to just open, do the work and close up. resolving the issue you may need to get yourself some Diatomaceous Earth and topdress with it, cause the reason why you getting those gnats is the soaked soil, but they don't come to eat the soil or just come by to "look at it for the fun of it" they come there to breed and lay eggs. so you gotta worry now about gnat larvae. the flying ones you can catch with sticky traps and some IPM, but even the DE wont help the flying buggers, but your new thing is stopping the larvae from coming out through the soil and starting a new colony. that's probably why you saw it then it got better then worse again, cause you've invited them in, probability of there being nests in your topsoil is already through the roof so yeah. I would say get sticky traps, get DE, fix your watering and keep the grow space closed. if you only half ass it you be asking the same questions next month

one on the right still looks fresh, then again some stuff just naturally already looks like the other two after drying. you perhaps have photos of these from 3 years back so we can compare to this? kinda hars to go oooh or aaah if I am just looking at some weed from a far. maybe a little closer inspection? most important would be trichome quality after 3 years, can't see them like this.

Food for thought - Terpenes are volatile, they will never ever increase from harvest day onwards, doesn't matter what you do, they will always decrease, but they can be expressed better when they're in better ratio to other compounds. You can have the best of the potential expression after a good cure, but it's down to the science, you'd never be able to change mids to top shelf through anything done post harvest. I don't choose it to be like that, science dictates and I just bend to understanding. Terpenes are volatile, by definition that means the terpenes are always evaporating, some conditions make it evaporate faster and some make it slower. That smootheness is all the compounds, along with the terpenes, that has left the plant. bit of a catch22 if you ask me. Anyone can try and argue this however they want, science is science. It's a tight rope balanace of many many things easy and simple way to explain it is - there's 10 boxes and all need to be checked to make the green light go on, if one box is missed the green light will not go on and you can never go from having one or two boxes checked and then change one thing to check all 10 boxes. It basically starts from having a healthy plant, if you harvest a plant that don't look right you already missed the first box and nothing can be done to bring that bud back to giving its best expression. You can easily fall any direction, you want terpenes but you also want less irritation. the cure is basically slowly reducing all the compounds the plant offgasses (along with the terpenes) to the acceptible range for the consumer. as said before, terpenes will never ever increase from harvest day onwards, they will always decrease, but they can be expressed better when they're in better ratio to other compounds. Terpenes are found most notably in beauty products. perfumes and creams. even with topical stuff or whatever, if there's terpenes involved the principle stays the same - a specific consumer who loves lavender will try everything lavender till one day some lavender soap makes their skin itch, could be a new chemical, or sometimes it's the terp the consumer is crazy for but just in the wrong concentration or the wrong ratio to other compounds. one day the same consumer smells something lavender and doesn't like it at all, it's cause the ratio to other compounds, it changes the composition of the notes the terps carry so they hit your senses in an unpleasant way. It's never ever just one thing with plants the more you narrow something down to one specific reason the further away you getting from the answer. You've heard of the 99.99% pure thc amd that stuff? It's cause even solventless rosin fresh off the press isn't pure thc or pure cbd or any of the main cannabis related "things" people think of. There's many many many other compounds in there. now back to a bud... We gotta remind ourselves that when the plant is chopped it doesn't magically loose all the other compounds that make up plant matter. along with a bud you smoking natural lipids, sugars and startches, many different chemicals in many different forms and combinations. The outside shell of a resin gland is almost pure silica, there's less chlorophyll when most of the moisture left as a form N offgas, but there will never be 0% chlorophyll, and there will always be trace amounts of a good number of the compounds on the periodic table and in different combinations and shit (this what we talking bout when saying "entourage effect") there's literally too many compounds for me to know them all by heart, but yeah we tend to think and focus only around the thc/cbd aspects, but that's more with extracts, but still not the only things to focus on. otherwise there would be no oil classification, there would be no high or low quality, there would just be "oil".

if you got a fresh harvest, trim the weed before you get stem snap, (semi dry semi moist) then take a big plastic tote bin, put a black bag in it, moer all the stuff in there. some dudes do this pre trim aswell, so the whole plant basically stem sugarleaves and all go in the bin. then forget about it for a month, make sure to kick it around a couple times. turn the pile, tops to bottom and vice versa. now, most important, once you start trimming, buds don't go in a jar, they go in a bag once the bag is full you push it down to give that brick weed look let it sit compressed like that for another month. you'll have some black market looking weed. that's basically what happens to the indoor you buy before it gets to you.

I'd like to see that too I know old weed just goes darker in colour, the green goes darker and the trichomes all go amber so you get brown weed. Curing weed is quite specific. To cure something doesn't mean long term storage. You can see it with all things that need a cure. Types of alcohol, types of cheese... basically, saying "cure" means you didn't just store it long term. As with everything else, if the cure isn't done right instead of increasing quality it just degrades quality. and then there's the life of the cure, as with everything, it's like riding the rollercoaster to the tippy top and then a sudden dramatic plunge - anything you cure you do "low and slow" like they say "any good cure will take time" BUT as with the rollercoaster, it's a slow climb and the time spent being at the peak of it's quality is just a small window it leaves to consume, if you leave it for any longer even if cure conditions are perfect, the quality will fall dramatically. It'll just go bad and all the time spent on the cure will be lost. I feel, through my experience with it, the difference in 1 year cured weed and 1 month cured weed, the 1month stuff always wins. Tested it at least a hand full of times. Loose terps every single time, but the smoke is smoother. makes sense though, cause terps are locked in the essential oils and lipids in the plant. Less oils and fats = smoothe smoke but that comes with less flavour.

I remember when this forum was lighting up over the prices of the weed, some people singing songs about they get the best of the best for R50/60 and no one should pay more than that I stood firm that most people still paying the old prices of R120-R150, still got retaliated cause people got butthurt about the truth. I hope those 'some' people have taken this time to come to realisation, it seems that way cause instead of giving you the what what on how much you paying you just got a straight answer, has happened so many times on this forum @Sticks I would say it's a mix of all those things. The secret is definitly genetics, though. No two ways about it. I've had genetics push buds that look like black market stuff without me trying, just growing amongst my other plants. It's just genetics. I can link you to one of my very very first grows, I grew a Elvis cut I got from a black market connection, came out like black market looking weed. The photos are on here. One of my earliest threads. Infact, here you go Curing and drying could be a little bit of a factor, only when the genetics are what they should be. Obviously as clear as day if you got airy dark green buds on harvest day the absolute best dry and cure in the world will not make your buds dense and light green. that's just not a thing at all. not in a million years. Genetics - next time you go to the blackmarket dude, try go as high up as you possibly can and talk directly to the bulk buyer, ask for a clone of the stuff you buying you gona get a big fat resounding no. Well, that's if he's worth his weight as a blackmarket business man. Most black market suppliers will be part of a circle or "collective" of friends that share a couple of clones between them. I know a black market supplier, chat with him on a weekly basis, he lives here in my town couple streets away, got a whole house as a grow op, I'm talking 100's of plants on a perpetual cycle, full power all the way no hickups. He's pumping a cheese cut since 2012 that's been kept between the bunch of them and with my close connection he just simply sais No when I ask for a cut. That's what the black market does. Someone gets their hands on a keeper pheno and they see it sells well so they keep it away from the public in order to keep the value and price of that weed higher than the generic stuff. Setting the value margins for the black market. Like, who set that price of R120? What is it based on? If you work out what it cost to grow indoor it comes down to around R30/g. So the mark up could be because of the risk factor, but there's just a big a risk to growing outy. Probably even higher risk, cause it's harder to hide and all that. Indoor is the price it is on the street, cause they protect genetics. Now that's just talking about one cheese pheno, there are literally billions of cheese phenos out there if you account for all pheno variations and all... if you buy a 20 or even a 50 pack of cheese seeds you still wouldn't get the same winner of a unicorn cheese pheno as the one you get by the black market? Cause you're not a black market supplier so you not "in the clique" you not "part of the gang". Don't know it you aware of the "Elvis" and the "Hitler" strains, there's a couple of them, "clone only" strains, cause they don't wana take to STS to be reversed for seeds, cause they been hybridized into oblivion. it's basically just a production plant then, can't reproduce or anything. Elvis you can get the clone of these days, but there's about 10 to 15 different ones out here and literally only 1 winner. to find that 1 is like finding a unicorn. for real. and a couple years back of you asked for a Elvis cut people would just laugh at you, cause they protected it to keep the price high. The same way it is with the Hitler cut today. Saying "black market" is still quite vague, cause the black market produces 90% poopweed and then there's a 10% that will rival any home grower. I don't think any black market supplier would take the time to cure the stuff they sell, they hang to dry, trim and moer in a bag and there you go. Most of the time you get dry weed, but there's a good 30 to 40% of the time you buy weed from the black market you get it still moist as fuck. They're just sloppy. They know it's not all going to sell on the street on day one, still has to trickle down to the singles, so it gives the middle man time to bag the stuff and sit with it for up to a month before selling out, in that time the buds spent in a bag, and we all know a weed in a bag dries out. even in a ziplock. That's basically the burping/curing process. Just unlucky if you get it fresh and still moist, then again like you said, people just don't know better cause I am thinking about 2 different guys I know that refuses to smoke weed that's dried properly they prefer the moist stuff.... I've smoked with them and I give my properly dried and cured weed that smokes like a terp loaded breath of fresh air and they don't like it at all I'm sure I also wanted the "harder hitting" stuff when I first started smoking.

Aaah yeah that response shows a lot that's just like I said, the clones don't have pm when they there in their facility or grow space, cause their IPM just kinda "masks" it, this is why most clone suppliers can claim "mold and pest free clones" though the mold spores are there, they just waiting to get out the pressure area so they can take host. always a thing with taking in new clones, but it helps when you got the ones you like and clone them yourself, will save some money too and potentially some more time. have seen dudes let their clones get big enough that they repot and flip right away, so every cycle is like 8 to 12 weeks max. so if you in charge of the clones and their conditions you can reeeeeally pump those consecutive harvests. also - higher amount of clones = less time to fill the space. like a perpetual S.O.G. system. Heheheee yeah popping seeds can be a head scratcher, but I can make you a big bet that it won't hurt you or your craft to learn how to I think we all paid some school fees there too! Gotta say in the "wold of weed" the next thing I learned to just smoking the buds was popping the seeds. Although being bag seeds I went through about.... ah I can't give a number, like a shit ton of seeds, sometimes failing and then ending up reading and "researching" some stuff till a point where I felt confident. Got my 1st breeder seeds I coughed up some $ for, got enough for 2 runs. 1st run popped 4 seeds got 100% germ rate, 2cnd run I toasted all the rest of the seeds It helps that I am a complete weed nerd. back i. the 2010's people around me would always toss their seeds and stems on the ground, but I always had a jar filled with just stems and a jar filled with bags of all the different "strains" bag seeds. I was always holy about the seeds as if all seeds contain some unicorn. I would sometimes just sit and look at the seeds with a magnifier and look at the little nuances and shit, same way I do with buds and stuff so yeah complete nerd in that regard. I had a kak klomp seeds to mess around with and still I paid school fees when I bought my first The seed pop thing only became real important to me when I learned about phenos. Like that graph that shows when someone starts out they go climbing the mountain of knowledge and resources and when they get down the other side they realise it's all the same and everythings very very simple. You can replace the start of someones weed growing journey as "popping seeds is cool" and then we all go through a phase of thinking "clones are the only way" untill the reason why even the best of the best growers still popping new seeds becomes clearer it will make more and more sense to learn the ins and outs of popping some seeds, cause that's really the only way to find a unicorn. rerunning clones, even if they're unicorns, they get run out and "watered" down. Like the Jedi's Code thing. The breeders cut looked like 3d printed futuristic buds and I got real excited about it, now I've seen 100 people grow it and it just looks like some "good weed" all happened in like 1 years time. the Jedi was a unicorn, till the clone flooded the masses. And again the same "climb the mountain only to climb down again - graph thing", people start out wanting to grow enough for themselves so they focus on quantity till they get it, then realise they can focus on quality of that quantity now that you got one down time to upscale on quality, till you get those two both down then you start paying attention to keeping a stable so you always have a jar or two filled with some of your favourite flavours (those will be the clones) while hunting down your own unicorn by popping new seeds the whole time. Brother! I actually see it the other way around, mostly new seeds being popped on the forum here, but there are few dudes who rerun a few clones. I do too, but the dudes who grow mostly clones and don't pop seeds are more the blackmarket growers that want kilos of the exact same stuff every time, or people who supply others. I think most people who grow for themself will get sick of smoking more than 50g of the same stuff whole time. On the seed pricing and quality - Check out Totemics stuff. As of the last, let's say, 10 to 15 years the american breeders completely blew the dutch breeders out the water. Though, if you knew the laws around cannabis in the NL it actually makes a lot of sense, everyone always got excited about the laws around cannabis in Amsterdam, but they have actually got some extremely strict laws around it that leaves a lot of grey area. It was always seen as the cannabis capital of the world, but it's like a paradox how the leniency of their laws have supressed the development of cannabis. Anyway, in the last 5 years or so, Arjan and his team at Green House Seed Co have made a big comeback, going out of his way to change how the dutch have been doing it for yeeeeeeeeeeaars. but the best stuff still comes out the US. Spain bringing the too, Ripper being a big one. Now getting back to the local just check the lineage of the stuff Totemic is working with. There are local breeders out here gona make you cut a testicle out for a seed or two, but if you do the background checks and all that you will see. Those R80 local seeds could have been a cheaper seed and it would have given you MUCH higher quality end product than you got from the ginger ape stuff. I always use Biltong and Buds as a good example. They stock legit breeder packs at high price and and and, but they also got the exact same "genetic" in their own pack available for R50. Whatever it said on the pack, it's not that. Not at all. Nothing close to it. I use BnB as an example but soooooo many local seed banks do this to keep head above water. though I hate supporting commercial / corporate, those are one of the ethic rules I live by and I support others with good ethics and that's what it comes down to. Someone with passion and a want to do it will have good ethics. Commercial companies who just chasing the $$$ will have less ethical values, cause it's its own entity, it's not a persons face and moral values attached to a brand, so they feel like they can get away with walking over their supporters. Also because a healthy majority of SA is still stensitized to cannabis and completely new to this whole thing, so none of this would even be a glimmer of a thought to most of their customers.

@Totemic bringing the FIRE to those of you okes looking for US standard "instagram worthy" genetics, hit up the reputable local breeders. Knowing the lineage will help some of the older Dutch breeders catching up quick, but I feel SA local breeders giving internationals a run for their money. here's the proof passed the halfway line, two stretchers showing some sativa growth-like charactaristics so they probably right at halfway SSC#1 - medium stretch SSC#2 - SSC#3 - compact SSC#4 - stretcher in the bunch SSC#5 now a short write up more or less the same terps from all of them, can smell a lot of the candy -almost burnt sugar like- terp that reminds me of the Deluxe Sugarcane cut I grew. only #5 got a chem note hidden somewhere in it, but not chem I am used to. I've come across many chemical terps, but it's usually an overwhelming amount of a certain terp that turns it chemical, like a pungent fruity terp will turn chemical if it's fruity enough, a gassy terp will turn chemical if it's gassy enough. So there's always something with the chem. my last grow I had a Platinum Silk pheno from Inhouse Genetics, before the first smoke I was not really hyped on the strain, made beautiful nugs but I couldn't get myself excited cause it smelled like straight super glue. that nose stingy chemical glue terp that makes you go "Oh this is some real fucking gluey glue". I seriously thought there was something wrong with the plant.... after a month of cure I now understand how Gorilla Glue got the name. there's an actual glue terp, I mean I have smoked maybe 20 different looking "Gorilla Glue" strains, most of the was good weed but I never tasted glue like this. and I fucking love it, it's probably some of the strongest weed I have at the momemt and I love smoking it more than any of the other fruity stuff I have. I actually cut back on smoking it in order to savour it, so you know it's that good. back to the point, this SSC#5 got an actual soapy chemical smell that both puts me off but also makes me excited in the same way that PS got me. I am beginning to understand why there's a couple new genetics out there with "Soap" in the name. I mean, imagine smoking soap. or just consuming soap, hearing that name before completely put me off cause I just thought who the hell would go for something that may taste like soap... but now I understand.

gave me a good laugh with this one shots fired! hahah are they even still operating? I remember they made a comeback, but never heard of them again. Some growers are religious about treating any clone like it's riddled with disease and pests even if they come from a higher standard facility than yours - tons of people don't take in any clones unless it's something they really reeeeeeeeeally looking for, because of that reason. I used to not care, though I was always aware of this, I just went on about my shit the way I wanted, till it hit me square in the bek. Now I also shock treat and quarantine any outside clones. As soon as they come on my property I make a 3L bucket of 50% Pyrol, keep my hand over the pot with plant between fingers as if you going to take it out for repot, but then just keep it in the pot and dunk and swirl the whole plant in the 50%pyrol mix, then I leave the plant in the garden or just somewhere that makes sense. I only say "somewhere that makes sense", cause some of the stuff I have heard and seen is just................. yeah Anyway, yeah trust me, a shock treatment with a contact killer and a quarantine will keep you safe. sometimes, infact a majority of the time, you wouldn't see the trouble, because facilities that supply clones do weekly IPM and what not, so if there's any pest or fungal pressure you wouldn't see it right away, but skip like 1 or 2 weeks of IPM and the problem will take host. this means when you take a plant out of that invironment you carrying all kinds of unhatched pest eggs, unsprouted mold spores and all that shit with the plant that would've been curbed by the IPM, but now there's no IPM so the eggs will hatch and the spores will germinate. and if you working with microbes and get to understand how they operate, let's take PM spores for instance. the PM you get is not the same PM the guy from the next town over gets. It's the same genetic structure but a different phenotype (just like with plants and all other living things basically) they mutate and adapt to different conditions. this is why in KNF you hear a lot about incorporating IMO into your soil, cause the micro organisms that are indiginous to your area are not the same as the micro organisms that thrive in a different area. that's why you get different kinds of flu and other diseases. they're the same thing, but they mutated in different conditions so they end up being classified as two different things.

Hey bud! This is what I call a "Big risk, Low reward" situation, but that's only if I am understanding correctly. You spraying a nutrient, not a pesticide or fungicide? Stuff like Bio-Sulphur, Spinosad and Potassium Bicarbonate is to curb mold spores, also known to be the least harmful out of all products to spray during flower, so spraying that stuff in a situation where you feel or know you may have mold pressure during flower will make a lot more sense than doing foliar feed during that time, it may mean more harm than good so it's a bit counterintuitive if there's not significant improvement but big margin for error. This is actually the more important part here, this needs to be the other way around, you gotta wait for lights to go off before spraying anything. You can damage your plants even during veg when doing this. There's quite a long list of reasons why and I'd love to explain, but I can go on for days about this so I'll leave it up to you, if you want me to explain I'm open I agree with Evan, once you got loads of hairs you stop any spray. It's not the as much the RH that's the problem, though it's definitly a problem too, it's more about the stuff inside whatever you spray. Spraying clean water during flower can be a problem, because of RH, especially late flower when the buds have internal moisture, but once you mix stuff into that water it doubles the risk, because even the stuff that's safe to spray during flower will burn the crap out those pistils if you mixed it juuuuuust a little too strong or spray at the wrong time Some people spray bio-sulpher or spinosad during flower, even late flower, without problems, but then you really gotta know what you doing when you gotta spray, how much as dosage and and and..... though with all that said you definitly wana keep your RH more constant and lower during flower, even if you not spraying anything. 30% ideal RH in flower. IPM is a big must, for every grower in every situation, foliar feed is just extras, but even with IPM -something that MUST be done weekly- as soon as you switch to 12/12 you gotta step back. you must give 7 days between foliar treatments - so lets say you switch to 12/12 today you can do your last full dose spray, next week you'll see one or two pistils here and there when you IPM you do a 50 to 70% recommended dose, another week later if all goes well you'll have pompoms forming and you should spray anything less than 50% dose. 3 weeks into flower you'll have full pompoms and first swelling of calyxes, this is where it becomes dangerous to spray anything and it's completely up you, the general consensus is to not spray anything beyond that point, so if you do and something goes wrong you gotta take it on yourself and remind yourself no one told you to do it and that the rule of thumb is to not do it

Lol Dude, that's why I said - but you wouldn't understand why I would say that if you didn't slowly and clearly read and grasp this part - just remember, TIP burn, it's in the name, the damage will be on the TIPS. those leaves are very very small still yet you can clearly see the tips are fine. the colour is on the inner part of the leaf.

Woah, I'd love to see a light that makes the grow room colder. I thought generally lights give off heat? Or am I wrong? The presence of anthocyanins may be due to many many many things, but I have never heard of a plant turning purple cause of too much light. Sometimes a lack of light yeah, if it's paired with a lack of heat. If light is too intense for a seedling you'll see upward cupping also known as canoeing, forms of necrosis and/or tip burn which is basically just early necrosis. This will be, because when the plant has an excessive amount of photosynthetic active radiation (PAR) on the leaf surface, the excessive amounts will register as heat and the leaves will indicate through one of the responses mentioned earlier. Anthocyanins generally indicate a lack of something. 95% of the time it's a lack of heat. Rest of the time it could be due to either lack of nutrient, ph imbalance which also results in lack of nutrients and lack of light. Outdoor growers will have this experience where they can't move the plant and just the one side grows into the shade and gets a few hours less sun than the rest of the plant, that one branch that's in the shade will turn purple. Never the other way around.

Yew!! looking lekker boet The fluff, is mostly due to genetic potential, but only "mostly". no doubt with some fine tuning the buds could look slightly different, but the room for improvement on the genetic will be limited. a plant, or genetic, is a set blueprint that just needs to unfold. the amount of resin it makes is fixed in the genetic "code", you can't make a genetic make more of what it's "coded" to make. You must chek the dudes breeding, coming down to the last BX before you can call it TIBL, to stabilise the traits you selected you'll put a batch through torture test to see how resistant they are to pest and diseases, then select the winner there to take further. leave them in absolute shit grow conditions and in the end you still get dank sticky resin coated buds, but what will be affected is the health of said buds and resin that's on the bud meaning, the resin glands may just not be fully matured, chemical composition inside the resin glands aren't fully developed, over all plant health will make the plant BRIX% drop to shit, this is the plants carbohydrate reading, meaning how much sugar is in the plant and if you got a shit BRIX% you can do whatever you want the plant will taste like shit. buds just wont be properly formed and maybe during torture you gona get mites and all kinda unwanted shit, but nothing can change the genetic code that the plant comes with. Those being two completely different genetics you can't really compare amount of resin at all. Even if you had the same genetic but 2 different seeds they will produce different amounts of resin. They will be different phenos. Check my current grow I got 5 x same genetic but different phenos, out of the 5 there will be 1 winner, 1 that's clearly more resinous than the rest, and they same genetics. Can't compare them, but I know I should, cause I am looking for the winner, expecting them to make the exact same amount of resin to begin with would be my mistake. Unless plants are clones of eachother from the same mother you can't compare them like this. The extended dark hours before harvest is a myth, here is why - You know about "Apogee" and "Perigee"? The moon orbits the earth not in a perfect circle, but rather eliptical. Apogee is the point where the moon is furthest away from the earth so the moon looks smaller. Perigee is the point where the moon is closest to the earth. As we all know, the position of the moon has an impact on the bodies of water on earth. It effects the tides of the oceans, it has an effect on the water inside your body, inside the earth... basically every atom that carries a water molecule will be effected by the position of the moon. The earth and the moon has about the same gravitational pull as eachother, but earth is almost mostly water. The low viscosity measurement of water allows the gavitational pull of the moon to "pull" on water, but just as magnets that are attracted to eachother, once they're too far away they loose attraction. This means, when the moon is closer to the earth the ocean will be at high tide, but not all over the world -cause water is confined - buldging to the side the moon is closest to and lowering tide on the other side. The water table under the ground also rises during Apogee and lowers during Perigee. This has big effect on farmers, but not indoor farmers such as the vertical FMCG farms, they create their own seasons and harvest time does not depend on the lunar cycle such as with outdoor growers. Fully outdoor growers that are dependant on the calendar and the lunar cycle will be more effected by the moon position and find that come harvest time if you checking the trichomes they'll seem a little bigger and perkier in the early mornings, but it has nothing to do with the darkness, it has to do with the time of the year and the position of the moon. The extended dark period before harvest comes from the notion that you go from 18/6 as veg to 12/12 for flower. so people thought "aaah extending the dark time makes the plant push resin", knowing the plant can't grow in complete darkness the whole flower cycle people somehow concluded that leaving the plant in complete darkness right before harvest will cause it to just throw out resin. In hindsight, it causes more stress than anything, probably just encouraging mold to grow cause the plant it still attached to the roots, even if you don't want it to the plant is still making chemical exchanges, growing and "doing stuff" and at no time in a plants life does it grow in complete darkness. This comes back to - a healthy plant makes the best end product - not some special life hack mechanical treatment thing. the goal is purely to try and get the plant as healthy and close to natural as possible and you'll be happy.

hehheeee yeah nah, dude I can still remember my first dab with a dome nail, this thing the dome comes on, then the little nipple inside gets torched and the dome goes back on, no heat retention or anywhere for the dab to melt so you know when you done half your dab rig is covered in a sticky mess, nail was always glowing red hot in those days, the days of "if it aint shatter it don't matter" hahahah FML as soon as the little piece of shatter touched the nail it's flames and drops of extract flying cause of the combusting BHO that was never fully purged, 90% of the smoke goes up in the air and the 10% you get in burnt the living fuck out of you, saliva pouring out your mouth, nose, eyes and ears sweating like someone about to OD.... had to go lay down on the grass in the shade, focus reeeally hard on not dying while coughing my guts out almost to the point of throwing up.

Like they say "Find what you love and let it kill you" I love weed, but I have never loved the idea of smoking it through a running computor box and it kinda gives me solace knowing I was too poor to afford that stuff a couple years ago anyway As with everything in life the variables are endless, you can have the best rosin in the world with the best device and still have a kak experience. I've smoked bho that gave me that "fresh air" pull off a quartz nail that you get with rosin, but dabbing that same shit on the same rig that same day, with the nail just being a little hotter than before the bho clutched my lungs, couldn't get breathe for a good minute, head started vibrating, heart start pounding. not enjoyable at all. it is possible to have a really good experience with a dry herb vape / cart pen any of those, but the likelyhood is much less and probability of having offputting experience is much higher, so there's that too... a good dab you just taste like flavoured fresh air that gets you baked like a bread, but only for like 20 to 30min. very minimal lung clutching and coughing. rosin is the "cocaine" of the weed world, it comes in small amounts, when you got it it's all about the experience, that first few minutes after the consumption, got a fat cheeky smile on your face and feeling ontop of the world 30min later you sober like a Sunday and in need the next one till the bag is finished. That's why I am going for the Puffco + a press. Can't go wrong, but then again if I try Piatella and it's better I may just rely on others' press if I ever want any kinda rosin done, but as I understand Piatella is a form of water cured ice water hash, so you don't need a press and the end product is better than rosin.