PsyCLown

This is true, might be worth while playing with the coco / perlite ratio. Not sure though.

What make / brand of tent is it? Was it advertised as new or used? Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I think you may end up with issues using they soil. Perhaps give it a bit of time, see how the plants do and decide from there. If you don't experience issues you might be able to get away with it, otherwise repot into some other soil to help make life easier until harvest. Nothing wrong with being conscious of pricing or trying to save some bucks, not everyone is fortunate enough to have a bomb setup or afford one, so work with what you've got. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

@Martin7318 Welcome to the forum. Growing can be much cheaper than paying for bud, can also be a lot more rewarding but unfortunately indoor does cost money. Especially when you want to do it right. You already have a lot of the expensive stuff. It is well worth spending ab it more and getting proper stuff which is tried and tested and works well and will give you the results you want. Cheap out on certain things and you will suffer, which can lead to you being demotivated and not wanting to grow anymore - not to mention all the time (time is money) wasted and the hassle of trying to deal with the issues which arise from trying to cheap out on certain things. Freedom Farms and Organics Matter are both good soils, spending R200 on a bag of soil is well worth it compared to trying to use some cheaper soils or some which are not tired and tested and having the health of your plants take a nose dive, which leads to lower yield and bud which could have been better. A grow from seed / clone to bud takes at least 5 months. If 5 months of your life is not worth R200, I don't know what to say I myself like to save money and will often view multiple angles to see if or how I can save some bucks, the same applies to my growing - but I have learn that sometimes you just need to spend the money and it is well worth it. If you want to use cheaper medium, then consider hydro or coco. Hydro will require a learning curve and some additional equipment, coco is a lot closer to soil - has it's own set of pros and cons. @CreX and I both grow in coco. With coco you can buy 5KG bricks and take the time and effort to expand it and buffer it yourself and save some money, or buy some BioLeaf which is ready made and cheaper than soil (For R199 you get 60L versus 30L of soil from Freedom Farms & Organics Matter).

There is also Chromspec, never used them but would like to get some bud tested at some point. http://www.chromspec.co.za/ They do nice GC-MS tests (Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry). So you know its going to be pretty accurate. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

@The Grass Baas the website states R250 for the test and claims to provide Terpenoids, Cannabinoids & Flavonoids.

Why do you not want something organic? Perlite could work, hydroton as well and I think that quarts gravel stuff would work well too. Hydroton I think may be easiest as it wont get washed away or worked into the coco as much as the perlite.

Never heard of them, perhaps try find out what they use to test the sample which is being submitted. What device / type of test. That will help us determine how legit their testing may be, if it's someone use a tCheck, then I'd pass.

200ppm is fine. I have given seedlings higher EC before without issues. Although as mentioned, you can get away without nutes for a little while with the seedlings.

We all needed to start somewhere, I too made some silly mistakes when I first started growing. I bought a bunch of autoflower seeds, thinking it would be easier. Luckily I had some members on the forum willing to help and was gifted some nice photoperiods to start with, along with some bagseed to try germinate. Once you are comfortable with the growing process, if you have the money, go for some better and higher end genetics. If not, get some cuttings or find those cheaper gems from local breeders or the cheaper breeders. For indoor, lighting makes a massive difference. Try not to skimp on lights. Then genetics will also make a massive difference, far more of a difference then nutes, secret potions, growing medium (soil, hydro, coco) etc. I feel a lot of products are marketed to try and improve your plants, but ultimately the genetics determine how great the plant can be. The good nutes, environment and so forth just further assist the process and help the plant reach its full potential. If you want frost, no fancy expensive nutes or potions will get you there - genetics will. Just an example

@Chtzb4st Welcome and enjoy your stay!

I wouldn't worry about the EC much, the extra calmag won't increase the EC all that much and flower nutes on GHE are not that high in terms of EC when following the chart. You can safely push the EC To 1.6 typically without issues and that would give you around 0.3 to 0.4 EC of CalMag which can be added. I doubt 3g/ 10L will be more than 0.4 EC. You are on a timeline for sure, size wise your plants are looking good though and a flip next week should be ok. Just going to have to deal with the issues going into flower, you have the 3 week stretch to help as well though and nutes will be pushed up during this stage anyways.

You reap what you sow, take care of your ladies and they shall reward you for it! Start the diary when your plants arrive

@The Grass Baas I am using the BioLeaf coco, it's cheaper than the imported brands. Around R199 for a 60L bag - cheaper than the price of most soil people use for cannabis. Might be a good idea to feed with extra CalMag for now and up the Micro a little and wait it out. Not worth pulling plants out of coco and trying to buffer again. It will correct itself, may just take a bit of time. 3g/ 10L is what is recommended for deficiency. @Leeroy420 Never tried to adjust the PH to help. It could be worth a try.

I am not great at diagnosing deficiencies as I struggle with colour a bit. When I use to buffer my coco, I would get the calmag solution a lot higher than 0.3 EC I would aim for around 1.2 EC to 1.6 EC to let the coco sit in to ensure proper cation exchange. Perhaps it was a bit excessive. I recall someone mentioning they used an EC of around 0.8 when buffering their coco and never had issues. To me, 0.3 EC to buffer seems a bit low. So it is possible that is part of the issue. As for why it is affecting only one of the strains is a bit weird but could be due to the demand for certain nutes which the one strain has vs the other strain. You could try add a little more micro to the mix as that contains some the calcium and some magnesium too. You could add a bit extra calmag as well (I think it was 1g or 3g per 10L for maintenance) to the feed if you feel the coco may not be buffered properly. Now a days I just purchase already mixed and buffered coco, much easier for me. Are you using the soft or hard version of the GHE nutes and is it normal tap water? Filtered water? Borehole?

Nice, welcome to the forum and good luck! Growing cuttings is very similar to growing from seed, just they're a bit bigger and rooted already. Let us know how it goes and perhaps start a grow diary once you get your cuttings?

If it works well, it can certainly be appealing. A simple spray to help prevent PM, helps reduce the risk of pests (perhaps get rid of them altogether even) and possibly increase brix, plant health, plant resistance, yield etc. Typically it's a few different sprays / products to achieve this and not quite as cheap as the vinegar. How will it compare, we shall find out. Even if it is not 100%, the price and what it is able to do and the simplicity can still be very appealing and growers can then decide to supplement with some other products to if they so desire.

Eish, until the plants get burnt... again. I've been there and done that. Burnt plants from sprays which are meant to help is no fun. As long as you keep it on the lower side, shouldn't be too much of an issue. If you get burnt plants, it's a lesson and do not go that strong again.

Remember I am using a combination of things, including Beauveria Bassiana and Metarhizium to help get rid of the root aphids. Both of these are fungus which work for killing pests as well. The fungus is the pesticide in this case, along with some neem and spinosad which do not affect the fungus. If it was just trichoderma and/or mycorrhizal fungi, then sure. Getting rid of pests would be more important than keeping the fungi alive. Although, how effective is it at getting rid of pests? @The_StonedTrooper I think for this findings you may need to go out of your way to get some pests, to test it out on. lol Thrips, spider mites maybe even some aphids if you can find. No clue where you'd find said pests though.

I think I used it at around 0.2 to 0.3 EC, but I only did it once or twice. @CreX What EC or PPM do you do your CalMag foliar at and perhaps any advice on the best way to use it? Epsom Salts is Magnesium, CalMag is Calcium & Magnesium with some Nitrogen - so do not go too heavy on the CalMag foliar IMO.

@ORGANinc. & @thelazyfishermanza Just note the edit I did to the original post.

Very possible, or formulas with unchelated calcium or some difference with the nutes in the mixture.

Soo, some friends and I were discussing mixing of the GHE / TA TriPart nutes. One mentioned they were told to add the Micro last. The Grow Guru website states to add the Micro first. I personally never paid much attention to the order I mixed the nutes into the water in, so I decided to reach out to GHE (now Terra Aquatica) to see what they have to say and this is the response I received from them. A bit different to what my friend was told years ago and to what Grow Guru say. Personally, I'd rather follow the advice from TA directly as they're the ones who make the nutes and should hopefully know the best way to mix it. I think this might make more of a difference to some of the other 3 part nutrient mixes as they may not chelate the nutes the same etc. Thought I'd share this with everyone EDIT: A few minutes after I posted this thread, I got another response from someone else at TA stating the following. So a bit contradicting, but William states the order is not important as long as you mix it well before adding the rest of the nutes. He prefers to use the micro first. I mix it in whatever order I feel like on the day, never noticed issues to be honest.

@Mr.Kaneh You gotta grow it out to see what you get. Some breeders are more trusted than others. People have their preferences as well. This discussion has been had a few times as well. I personally try avoid the dutch / EU seeds, especially the cheaper ones. You may get a few diamonds, there may be some strains which they sell which are good but I feel there are better, safer bets out there in terms of spending money on seeds. Budget also plays a role, not everyone wants to spend a couple thousand on a pack of seeds and I can fully understand that. There are good budget options out there as well. @Totemic has some very well priced seeds, Ripper Seeds as well as Worlds Strongest Strains also have decent stuff I feel. Not every strain or pack of seeds will be great though. Also just because a pack of seeds is expensive does not mean it will be great either.