Jump to content

Dookie69

Regular Member
  • Posts

    221
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Dookie69 last won the day on February 7

Dookie69 had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Dookie69's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • One Year In
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges

259

Reputation

  1. Can you elaborate on that?
  2. TA tri part forms the foundation of my feed routine. I’m tempted by the TA for coco, it’s a two-part…. Anyone have experience with both?
  3. Just for interest, how’s this Matrix Disc (sits at the bottom of the pot with the purpose of keeping bits of coco / soil away from the tray and the valve). Such vigorous root growth even gets around the standard copper root-control disc, which is why I recommend the copper “pot-sock” for proper root control. You can see where the airdome sits. The air domes get completely choked with fine white roots, they love the extra air. Normally I re-use my Matrix Disc but this one is too far gone!
  4. Welcome to this community, smart move.
  5. I’ll give it a shot, I’m about to germinate so my pots are all empty.
  6. Yes the usual piping is assumed, I should have mentioned that. It’s just an interesting “hypothetical” option, for example if you build a greenhouse over a set of steps, or a terrace, that you can use one reservoir to feed a number of autopots on different levels.
  7. Multilevel Autopot Trays? I read somewhere that so long as all the trays are lower than the res, that a multilevel arrangement is possible, and very helpful for raising shorter plants to canopy level… Anyone tried this? Excuse the crude drawing.
  8. I use a 5-6cm layer of Leca. I like the fact that it is a wick for the Coco, and it offers an aeration gap which I’m certain stops the pot from “sitting in water all the time”. I’ve started recycling it for future grows, so it’s cost reduces par grow. The roots love it, I find those fine white roots favouring the airdome and the Leca zone.
  9. Dookie69

    EC Readings

    The feed charts are mainly to ensure the correct NER (Nutrient Element Ratio) is followed, for each stage of growth. They can be diluted as you see fit so long as the ratios remain correct. I also mix in 20l containers, but work out the percentages before, so let’s say it indicates 2,4ml of Bloom per litre, and you want to run a 70% strength. 0.7 x 2,4 x 20l = 33.6ml per 20l as opposed to 48ml at full dosage. The order in which you add them is important. The chart suggests Gro then Micro then Bloom. It’s better to go Micro then gro then Bloom. Finally a note on EC. TA can’t know the base EC of every place in the world, or indeed who will be using RO water for that matter. So they base their recommended EC range (bottom of each column in the chart) on an average tap water range EC (I think around 0,3). This added to their 100% NER strength gives the recommended max /min EC on the chart. Here in SA we have pretty low EC in the tap water, generally. Mine is around 0,1. For me this means that even if I feed at 100% Nute strength, I still don’t achieve or surpass the max EC, sometimes not even the minimum. This leaves me with some wiggle room for adding supplements as a preventative or corrective measure, for eg CalMag, Chelated Calcium, Silica, Biodyne, Epsom salts and bloom boosters. Finally, and anybody please correct me if I’m wrong, EC is a measure of Electrical Conductivity in a solution, typically measuring salts content and cannot measure other non-electrically conductive elements in the water. This is why it is important to know what you’re dealing with media-wise, since your media (“soil”) can actually contain a lot of undetectable stuff which in excessive amounts can be detrimental to a cannabis plant. So mix in the right order, mix conservatively, never exceed the max EC on the chart. And don’t be forgetting pH. It’s as important if not more so than anything else. And keep an eye on you reservoir / bucket. pH can creep up over a few days and the next thing you know it’s way way over. Don’t think of pH as a linear scale. It’s an exponential / logarithmic scale. So pH 6 vs pH 7 is not “just” one point up. Water with a pH of 6 is 10X more acidic than water with pH of 7 [emoji43][emoji43][emoji94]. Accuracy of pH is critical.
  10. That is a top tip for sure. I am about to try quick-disconnects (fuel line disconnects) from the motorcycle industry, in order to remove / add trays in the grow space.
  11. Consider a dehumidifier, it will work well in that environment.
  12. Dookie69

    EC Readings

    That runoff does appear to be very high. Do your plants appear to displaying any lockout / nute burn / stunting? If your concerned about it I would flush each pot with 3 x it’s capacity in TA flash clean then after a day or so feed at 70% of the recommended dosage plus add some Calcium or Cal Mag to keep the Coco happy. After that try to be conservative with nutes, I never run my plants past 80% strength, and my EC usually sits around 1400. (This is in flower, including any other supplements like Silica or whatever) (I run Auto’s, they require lower EC apparently) As far as calibrating the EC, you can’t calibrate as such, but you can compare to a know standard liquid to see if it’s in spec or not.
  13. I’m trying my hand at Hash (cold water and bags) later this week. I’ll hopefully be able to use the trim from the trim bag for hash.
  14. So you have the original brand TrimBag? I am interested, I’ll send you a message.
  15. I’m glad you brought up the bottom or top feed for the autopot. I see that as a solution to growing multiple strains on one reservoir. I’ve had it before where one strain goes into pre-flower faster than others… up to now I’ve had to decide on a compromise because it’s one reservoir for all. Now by top feeding the pre flower plants with a suitable nutrient ratio, the rest can catch up when ready…. Great idea.
×
×
  • Create New...