PsyCLown

You wanna bump nutes up during the 3 week stretch, then reduce the N a lot and up the P. So with Biobizz from what I recall it was fish mix in veg (I preferred this over grow for veg). Then gro with some bloom during stretch and then reduce the gro or drop it altogether and up the bloom a bit. You can go stupidly heavy on bloom without negative effects. I was pushing boundaries with bloom on one of my grows when I was still using Biobizz and no burn or lockout... It was a waste though. I skipped the chart and fed based on EC which I think was like 8ml to 12ml per L or around there. From what I recall the bloom has N in it as well, but low which is perfect. No need for additional N in flower. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Looking great, once you go into flower (after preflowering /stretch) you wanna drop the nitrogen all the way down. What nutes you using? Biobizz? All your plants look quite similar frost wise actually, very nice. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

@Prom I agree with you 100% Unfortunately we know that some breeders like to use names of strains which have a following to help with sales and those strains have little to no lie to the original name at times. Finding a proper Durban Poison is probably near impossible, if not impossible. Anything one gets now a days would have likely been crossed with other strains along the way. Finding proper landrace strains isn't as easy anymore and I believe they can be a bitch to work with as well. As for changing the name / badge on something, once you make the change it becomes that... That is how it works... Did you not know? If you take a Polo Vivo and put a GTI badge on it, it becomes a Polo GTI.... If you take a Citi Golf and put the R badges on it, it becomes a Golf R.

I think you might be onto something here... A "special collection" range to be released by a breeder, the strains named after deadly viruses, compounds or people who committed some serious crimes / offenses. It would certainly have appeal to some people. lol Imagine a strain called Ebola or Anthrax. "Hey man, pass me some of that Anthrax to put in the grinder" "I had some Ebola last night, knocked me the fuck out!" "That Stalin was really good, I need to get some more!" I agree, there are better names for weed strains.

I took a quick look yesterday, not sure whether it would work for root aphids - it says it repels pests, not kills them. Specifically mentions flies and nematodes. What did concern me was the fact that in higher doses it can be used as a herbicide and the fact that it states can control fungal infections - I assume it is a fungicide which can be good but can be bad as well. If someone is using fungi to help keep the roots healthy and happy and to help control pests, this may fuck with that as it may be detrimental to the good fungus as well. It claims to deodorize, how would this work in combination with the terpenes on the flowers? Perhaps it works by adjusting the PH and therefore deodorizing? Much like how people use white vinegar to help remove odour. I think if we had more in depth info on how it actually works and achieve these claims, that might help us understand it a bit better and what it may work well with and what it should not be used with etc. It certainly seems to have it's uses, I'd like to try understand it a bit better though before I jump in and start trying it out. I already use a few products which claim a lot of similar things (Increase brix, plant simulant, better root development etc. etc.) and I do use various fungi with my grows. Would be keen for you to give it a try and provide us with some feedback as to how well it worked for you and how it compares to some other products as well... Comparing to other products can be a mission and tricky though.

I think the picture makes it look bigger than it is, combined with the fact that I have squeezed a "few" more plants than usual inside the tent. I was able to do this because of the plants I got given did not get much training so it's a few colas which are pretty straight and lanky combined with the fact that they're inside smaller plastic pots... I could squeeze more plants and pots inside the tent and the angle makes it seem like a sea of green. lol In person it is a bit different. My problem has always been the plants in the back, you'd think getting 1.2m deep inside a tent wouldn't be too much of a mission - I like to make sure the tent is full as real estate is precious, so more often than not it is a bit of a mission but one I have become use to and learn how to manage a bit better. Automatic watering helps and staggering the tent helps too (ie. Not filling it all in one go), this helps ensure that you harvest half the tent while the other half still has a few weeks to go and give you time to get plants in, let them stretch and then defol before you put the other plants from the veg tent into flower. I am really excited for this harvest, this week I am going to do another drench with some pesticides to ensure the root aphids are gone for good! So far it seems to me as if they have gone, fingers crossed. Hard to check and be 100% certain though so one more dose as a precaution I feel is worth it.

So a few more pics... A pic of the whole tent, as you can see there are plants in various stages inside this tent. Here are some pics of a Black Cherry Pie by IHG, stacking nicely and frost is coming along. Not the frostiest strain I believe, not on the same level as the Sugarcane and other such strains. Here is a picture of the plants which went into flower on 12 July I think it was...

Hahaha, never heard of it but an interesting name for a strain. Depending on where you got it from, it's very possible it is another strain just renamed. Someone could have just made it up as well. Curious to see the outcome

That banana looks good! A bonus that it is a quicker flowering plant and finished before the others When do we get the smoke test report?

That QB can still be raised, so height is not a problem. Extra veg time will help ensure the ladies are established in the new pots and extra medium as well as allow them a bit more time to bulk up and grow a bit more before you flip - all in all, leading to a bigger and better yield Those days in flower seem to have helped push some nice growth as well, I love the tight node spacing and that will lead to some very nice stacking once they're back in flower. Personally, anything below that tight node stacking I would get rid of and remove completely before putting the plants back into flower. Basically anything below the yellow line. Reason being, there will be new growth in the next 2 weeks and then even more growth during the 3 week stretch. Anything below that line will be left at the bottom of the plant and will not receive optimal light and will likely end up as fluff. I find removing the bottom part of the plant not only helps with airflow, but also helps produce larger bud at the top where the plant is getting more light. It will also help force the plant to focus it's energy on new growth and less energy is spent maintaining the stuff at the bottom.

Yeah, getting something to see the trichomes is a must I feel. 60 days is a really quick flower. I'd say leave until week 10 as this is more average for most strains. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Looking good. That crazy stretch happens to a lot of the in house strains I've grown, including the slurricane. Keen to see the bud once it's fully developed. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Without seeing the trichomes colours, it's near impossible to say whether they're ready or not. How long ago since all the pistils were white? When did the bud stop fattening up? Usually around 3 weeks to go after the above happens (pistils are no longer white and the bud is finished fattening up). At this point its just a waiting game as the trichomes need to mature and this stage plays one of the biggest roles in determine what type of effects you're going to get. Too early can feel less potent, make one paranoid, wake up groggy the next morning etc. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Sort of like it's gone into that preflowering stretch phase. Lets see how it goes I guess, but looking good and so far so good regarding the reveg and no signs. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I've had that happen before too, it's quite upsetting indeed. Early harvest isn't great. 2 to 3 weeks isn't long to go luckily. I'd say try pick the nanners this time, more will continue to grow though. You can try to continue picking all of them, otherwise I feel by the time the pollen comes, you'll be closer to harvest and the seed won't have sufficient time to form and will barely affect your harvest. You probably won't notice seeds in the buds. As for the PM, the milk and water can help but it can get a bit messy and leave marks on your leaves unless you rinse the plants off. I'd recommend some AQ sf, if you're able to get some bio impilo and bio tricho the 3 can work well together. This works well as a preventative for PM at a low dose, at a high dose will get rid of the infection. If you do nothing, it WILL spread. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNA6aqXOVlA Unfortunately YouTube does not allow for this video to be embedded. Man, this song just makes ones feet want to move. The type of song where you'll dance out of the club if it's playing when you're leaving.

You get other devices, similar to the Sonoff TH16 which I believe keeps logs for a longer period of time I believe. Records the temp & RH every hour. Blitzwolf make one as well: https://www.blitzwolfeurope.com/BlitzWolf-BW-IS8-Smart-ZigBee-temperature-and-humi It is a zigbee device, can tie into home automation and sonoff devices. This Blitzwork is just one of what I am sure are many other devices out there which can do this. Runs off a battery, so even easier to have inside a grow tent - no need for wires for power etc.

Without a doubt, the timeline most breeders give is not accurate. You do get strains which have amber in 8 to 9 weeks from flipping to 12 / 12 but not all that common. One thing to keep in mind is the pheno variation as well in a pack of seeds, this can lead to the difference as well as some breeders just stating a shorter flowering time to make the strain seem more appealing. Differences in how people refer to the stages the plants life or when they start counting can contribute towards the variation as well. In this forum it seems majority refer to flower and start counting from day 1 on the day the lights are changed to 12 / 12. I do this myself, however the first 3 weeks of this I refer to as the pre-flowering phase and after that comes the actual flowering phase. Some may separate the two and reference the flowering phase (after the stretch / pre-flowering) as the time. Take the breeders guideline with a pinch of a salt, to be on the safe side add around 2 weeks to their timeline to prevent unhappiness from expecting a short flowering strain and having to wait longer to harvest. Exact same applies to autoflowers, if anything the timelines given on autoflowers is often far more inaccurate compared to the photoperiod flowering timelines. I feel 10 weeks of flower is average. Shorter than 10 weeks is a plant which flowers quickly. Longer than 10 weeks is a plant which takes it's time to flower. The other difference is under what conditions do people consider a plant ready to harvest? Some might like all cloudy with little to no amber and others want it as amber as possible. Would be great if it could be standardized, however it is simply a guideline and one which should be taken with a pinch of salt

@John Stonedwell Based on my experience, with the frosty stuff I have grown so far - bud size seems to be something which is affected. Get tons of frost, but bud size and yield seems to take a bit of a knock unfortunately. Defoliationg helps, everyone has a different degree to which they are comfortable with. I say on your next grow, try multiple methods on the same strain (or cut) and see how it goes. Strip the one plant literally bare just before you put it into flower and see how it bounces back and create a lot of extra nodes, leaves and colas during the pre-flower phase and then do another defol after that (around 3 weeks after putting them into flower). So far, yield does not seem to be affected in a negative way and helps open everything up nicely for better light penetration on the bud as well as better air circulation. Buds which do not get direct light often seem to be lighter in colour and not look as good. You can take a look at my current grow diary to get an idea of what I do, try it at least once. Try removing different amounts and see what works best, it may vary between strains as well. I do defoliate quite a lot heavier than most from what I have noticed, trying different levels on the frosty in house stuff as well to see how they respond. Looking great though, a bit of burn on the Palamino though on the tips of the leaves. Bubblegum looks to be clawing a little as well. I like to taper off on the nute strength towards the end of flower as I do not flush and the nutes can build up in the medium over time. So towards the end I start to drop the strength a bit to help avoid the crispy leaves towards the end of flower. I do not stop feeding altogether and I do not drop it drastically, 10% to 30% reduction in strength can make a big difference even.

100% A few of my friends use scrog nets and I know @CreX has tried to get me to use a net, I think he even offered to help me get it installed once upon a time but for me and the way I want to manage my tent - just seems like more hassle to be honest. I do however see the appeal behind it and feel it is a great option for many growers.

@The_StonedTrooper Props to you for cleaning your tent properly between grows. I must admit, I am terrible at this and want to try find a quicker, easier solution to getting down on my knees and wiping everything down. Your water "tray" still looks white, unlike mine... lol I've been toying with the idea of using a disinfectant fogger, although not sure how effective it would be against everything. However one can then simply just set it off in the tent, close everything and leave the fans on to help circulate it around the tent and even a bit in the room I guess. Also have you considered using bleach? I was also wondering what may be the best to use to clean my tents, if I had to get down on my knees with a cloth and thought bleach might work best as I think it would kill all spores, any possible stray pollen, eggs and even pests if there are any.

You have to, if you do not tie them now - you will be forced to do later when the stems start falling over due to the weight of the bud and it's even more of a ballsache to do it later as the bud is formed and sticker and the stems are already flopping over and it's easier for a branch to snap. So decided to take the time and do it now already while I was doing the defol. They're all tied to the single stake, so when they try flop outwards, the twist ties and stake catch them and keep them in place. We'll find out just how well it works in a few weeks time. I previously tried those tomato cages, but they're not too enough and wasn't as ideal of a solution as I was hoping for. Still leads to all the colas clumping together and preventing light penetration and reducing air circulation.