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oldsandals last won the day on July 15

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About oldsandals

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    Dab from quartz banger

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  1. Nice, are you going to press that hash into rosin?
  2. Hello I just wanted to say thank you to all those responsible for getting my prize to me. I'm sure it was a hard time for some of the parties involved to fork out the free goods after the rona. All arrived in tact and lots of free stuff packed inside. Thank you Cannabist 🙂
  3. Totemic mostly covered it. You should read up on some literature on selective breeding, it can be a learning curve, but interesting https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fgene.2016.00210/full
  4. That seedling starter is NPK of 2-3-2. It similar to the bonemeal you added. You may be adding too much P with both bonemeal and this seedling starter, but not sure of the amounts you added, probably going to be fine.
  5. Hey. Thanks I will download that and check it out. Seeds come built in with about 2 weeks of nutrients stored in their first leaves called cotyledons, so they will grow regardless. But using some seagro which is an acidic fish emulsion will work fine to add the nutrients that are missing from your mix. Always start with 30% of the label dosage and work your way up to stronger doses as you see the plants coping. Quite often these labels ask you to use way too strong of dilution.
  6. That's s very cool light meter! I'm not sure which root starter you added but coco/perlite/bonemeal will not be enough basic nutrients for the plant to grow healthy. You can use that mix you made but I would add either compost which you can find anywhere, or worm castings which is better but harder to find. You want to have about 70% your mix to 30% compost/worm castings. You also should add some dolomite lime to it for cal mag, this is also easy to find. Then you will have a decent mix and will have some success. The biggest mistake new growers make is to have a heavy growing medium that doesn't drain well and then over watering the plants. With your medium drainage will be fine. Water every 3-4 days. For when the plants are growing without making buds this is called the vegetative stage. During this time they need 18-24 hours of light per day to stay in this phase. When the plant is big enough you can switch the amount of dark and light to 12/12 and it will trigger the plant to flowering mode and it will start to make buds. Fast plants will take about 8 weeks flowering to finish. Slower plants usually up to 14 weeks unless you got landrace genetics then it can go indefinitely long some times. Another way to do it would be with plain coco and bottle nutrients specialized for coco grows. As you learn you will find your way. Good luck!
  7. Wow those are looking really great! Hope you dont mind me posting this for anyone that wants to try
  8. Looking good! I love seeing how our SA sun kisses those girls.
  9. My organic soil mix, developed over about 10 years of side by side tests. I'm from KZN so the sources are found closest to me here that I have added. Per 1000 litres mix you will need the following core ingredients: 400 litres of flushed expanded coco coir. Always flush more than you think you need to... (coco helps with the cation exchange capacity and adds a sponge effect to the medium allowing moisture to be spread out more equally, i use this coco) 300 litres of perlite. (along with the coco this is the main source of storing oxygen in the medium, i get mine from here or here) 150 litres of quality moist black worm castings. (The main component of the nutrients for the mix come from the worm castings, it is broad spectrum NPK and micronutrients, i get mine from here or here) 150 litres of quality compost. (if contains manure - use only 20% or lower manure content, can be mushroom compost or wood chips + manure etc. i get mine from here) Per 1000 litres mix you will need the following amendments: 500g of Talbourne Organics 2-3-2 (I use this as the main source of phosphorous instead of bone meal but it has all NPK and micro nutrients also. Very good product. Get the non pelleted version, their website) 2kg of Dolomite lime (main source of calcium and magnesium while also stabilizing pH, can get it at most nurseries or garden shops) 1kg of Rock dust (Turbo grow - source of micro nutrients) 1kg of Diatomaceous earth (the silica breaks down over time adding strength to plant cell structures, making stems stronger and leaves glossy. i get mine here) 200g of Cricket frass (contains high amount of calcium carbonate and iron, i get mine here) Liquid feeds that work well with this mix: Fish emulsion (Seagro brand has very low pH which is useful to bring down tap water that is higher than 6.5pH) Seaweed extract (The auxins and cytokinins help to de-stress plants and give life back to stunted or shocked plants, can increase internode lengths and delay onset of flowering) Biobizz bloom (I don't really use this anymore but can be useful to boost flowering plants without adding nitrogen) Biobizz grow (contains mostly fermented sugar beets and molasses, good to feed the soil microbes in light dilutions) Biobizz fish mix (pH corrected fish emulsion with molasses, I prefer to use the Seagro brand for the acidity) This mix is not a super soil so depending on the container or hole size that you use for a single plant, you may need to add liquid feed after 4-5 weeks of growth to support hungry plants, but you will be not adding much since majority of the nutrients are in the soil. Keeping the pH between 5.9 and 6.6 seems to have best results. Feed plants only plain water for about three weeks prior to harvest for the cleanest best tasting end product. Edit: to answer OP's question of reusing soil. I think that a proper made organic soil gets better over time because the larger particle sizes are broken down over time by the microbes and are more available to the plant for uptake. But I generally do add a bit of worm castings + dolomite lime + talbourne 2-3-2 for reusing the same soil that has grown plants in already, guessing how much is a bit of an art. My soil that I am using now has been grown in about 10 times and still very good.
  10. Due to the big possibility of failure with these genetics to provide decent medicine, I like to call them research varieties. And I only plant a few each year from different batches. Right now I have going some old Swazi from early 2000s and some inland Transkei lime greens. I like to make notes on the morphological traits of the plants and compare to others from similar close areas. Most importantly to identify modern genetic pollution or varieties that were originally derived from hemp and have little use as drug plants.
  11. I keep a bunch of southern african stuff but its p1 stuff so it needs to be pheno hunted and inbred for a few generations to clean up the bad traits and improve chances of finding the good types. This will be the case for most landrace stuff that you find, unless someone's already done the work for you. Some stuff I've looked at over the years: Durban - seedbanks, collection valley of 1000 hills, collection Durban CBD taxi rank. Swazi - many imports, seedbanks, collection JHB, collection Swaziland Piggs Peak casino, collection Durban. Malawi - many imports, some seed bank, collection balaka village. Transkei - collection coastal lime green, inland lime green, red, gold, seedbank (ciskei). Limpopo - collection Polokwane. Drakensburg - seedbank, collection Himeville. Natal midlands - collection Rosetta. Zululand - collection Nkwaleni valley. Umkhomaas valley - collection. Probably more I'm not remembering, I'd have to dig in the fridge to make a full list. If anyone out there likes the African sativa and wants to chat or share let me know, I have a huge passion for these type of plants.
  12. Awesome! Whats going to be your starting inoculant? Worm Castings? I find that AACT takes some getting used to, and over brewed teas not so good. I'm not a tea expert though, but done it enough.
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