Naughty.Psychonaut

Wana start brewing some tea for the girls, I will be using a 15L bucket, but will only do 10L batches at a time. What size pump will work best for this? Any recommendations?

@Mambawana
I was quite surprised myself by that ph reading on the run off. Kind of hoped it would just point out the probplem already hahah I have definitly been using google wrong then, been giving wrong ph from the start! Will bring it up to between 6 and 7.
I appreciate all your help man!

@Bospatrollie2
She is not getting worse, but also not getting better. I've noticed after the flush her new growth has gotten a bit darker, if anything. She's still growing, but is significantly smaller than the rest of the the young ladies her age.
This is a Blueberry Fem seed from Dutch Passion, I got two of them going and I notice now some yellowing on the leaves of the other one too, think you might be on to something with the sensitive plant thing. Maybe just a few softies not really in the mood for growing?
I need an air pump to get my AACT going, got everything else needed, just need a pump and some tubing? I know the oxygen helps a lot with repairs in the root zone, but when next feed comes and I don't have a pump, could I just give tap water with 7ph and molasses? Or would there be a better option?

@GGG
She'll be going into some more ff premium. Anything better to reccomend?

@CG420za
I have alreadtly flushed her with 7ph water.
It is my understanding that with a healthy sybiote in your soil you can avoid salt build up to soar to toxic levels. I am not trying to feed the microbes the salt, but besides flushing a medium to prevent build up we add things like compost tea as an microbial innoculant to keep a healthy symbiote which then helps the breakdown of exessive salts avoiding a build up? I've heard of people flushing with microbial innoculant spesifically for the purpose of curbing salt build up and for the beneficial exchange that takes place between the roots and it's surroundings? I could be way off and please correct me if I am?

Update : She was flushed with water with 7ph, she's drying now, will probably take another 2 days or so, keeping a close eye on her!
Again, thanks for all the help guys, I think you like minded people will be most understanding as to how much I am appreciating all this info!!!

Both pens calibrated, did all I needed to do, got the following results, 

The water I gave to the plant, 7.0 on the dot -

The run off -

Not sure what the "0r" means on the ppm pen in the run off. I think it's the sediment and I only have that bit of run off so it's not deep enough to not get the pen near the sediment. There's nothing in the instruction booklet on it, trying to find something on google, maybe someone here knows what it means?

Diatomaceous Earth

Trichoderma

Love

@Prom will check light specs and measure light distance tonight, just for in case. Should be about 30cm away. 

For now while I still don't have a soil ph probe, I will do as @Mambawana suggested. Good thing I read that part about not flushing, just in time, only for a bit of run off to get an idea of what's going on in the soil. Got my water at 7ph, will post everything tonight, only get home at 6.

Got the bluelabs ppm pen too, wil get the ppm of the run off, think it shows the ec too.

I am really appreciating all the help guys, thanks!

@Prom I am on a 18 on 6 off schedule, under an apollo 8 LED. About 240 true watts. This light will soon be used only for veg as I am in the process of getting a flower room ready with a QB. I top feed manually when the moisture is around 20-30% on the moisture probe, or I feel if the pot feels light when I lift it, usually evey 3rd day. With a flush every 3rd time I water. 

I will get my ph between 6 and 7, got some ph up here. Thanks man! Appreciate that info on the ph. I think the best would be a soil probe, so that's moving to top of the shopping list. 

I will do what @Mambawana suggested and flush her with 6.5ph water and test the run off. Thanks man!

Damn man, I wish I had things covered, but being the experienced grower you are you should be aware that the guy who walks around thinking he already knows everything will never learn anything new. I am trying to not be that guy. So here I have two people, one saying I must bump up the feed, other guy sais I fed too much.... honestly, just "taking advice" would be wrong of me.... 

I mean on your journey to becoming the experienced grower that you are did you always just take the first advice given to you?

Firstly, I am not arguing or challenging you, this is called trying to learn things. If you where the teacher I'd be the kid putting his hand up. Just because I have questions doesn't mean I'm bashing your level of experience...

With that being said, don't you have to change up the light cycle for a preflower? I've heard of them, honestly never dealt with them because have never grown regs. So why would I have to check the sex? This is only my 3rd indoor grow ( @Promanswer to your question aswell) and played it safe by growing out some fems. Each time. Even with outdoor grows have never dealt with preflowers, only early flowers, because once they start flowering that's it, they flower. Unless they reveg? If I am wrong, inform me, this is what this site is for. 

I like that your advice is based on experience, I respect that the same way you have to respect the fact that no one has to take your advise just because it's your advise. You're wasting your time getting upset just because I wana get to the point of my problem.

Here's pics with natural light, I wouldn't call that dark green.

On the ph topic, I wanted to know if testing the runoff from that pot after a flush would indicate the soil ph? As I don't have a soil probe.... That is soil, ff premium classic, have been testing pH ,yes. After nutes gets added to the water I'm left with ph between 5.6 and 6. Should I change that? Because I'm growing in soil? Will get myself a soil probe asap.

@Prom

I'll post better photos a bit later, hopefully it will better explain why I don't think the plant is just giving up on the leaf. I've only jusy cut away the first set of true leaves that was getting in the way, but even they where still fine. 

Sucks to hear your take on neem. I've had it work for me. With loadshedding I caught pm on a cutting that was from a mother that had pm issues, neemd her up and kept treating her till before flower and no probs. Harvested a lovely full plant, which otherwise would probably not have been possible. I wouldn't use it to treat infestations, it's a preventative, but it sais so right on the product. Also, my ladies seem to love it, they always look extra thick and dark green when reacting to a treatment, so I read on the bottle it acts as a mild foliar feed. Will keep pyrol around once I get some again, for curbing infestation a little more.  

Thanks for the google mention hahah you know, it's funny, I found this site when googling such things. I've google, and I've googled some more, but taking guesses looking at pics and gathering unreliable information and going on hunches doesn't really cut it for me as "research". I could upload my opinions as fact and someone out there will believe it like it's written in stone. I'd rather interactively try to get to the point by reasoning it out and asking as many questions as possible as we all know nothing concerning growing cannabis happens without there being a variable. There's always 100 things to look at before making a move. It's like the "measure twice, cut once" saying, but on a much grander scale. 

Will raise the pots off the ground and give them a good sniff.

Thanks!

Wooooah, 6 weeks from seed and pushing flowers already??? Then my problem might be way bigger than anticipated. I have never grown a plant that wanted to flower after 6 weeks. This is her now. Far from being ready to flower.

Even though she is 6 weeks from seed pop she's only getting her 3rd week of feed. Would give a minimum of 5 more weeks before flip. I usually just fill up the tent space before I flip and that always requires another week or so...

I use hortimix nutes as per schedule, but I understand that every plant will have different demands.

I wish I had a soil ph probe, but I have the blue labs ph probe for water and been giving at a range between 5.6 and 6.0. Germinated in distilled water. Would testing the runoff from a flush indicate the soil ph or no?

If it's a deficiency and I flush her, the yellowing will just get worse? 

I have already fed her last night and will keep an eye on how she reacts...

Back to the whole six weeks from seed and pushing flowers already, I must be understanding the plant wrong or doing something major to hinder the growth of all my plants, becsuse I really have never experienced such a thing. Unless it's an auto or I just wana harvest 20g or something? Like I said I'll give my ladies at the very least another 5/6 weeks of veg before flipping. They would then be on their 8/9th week of feed and perfectly on schedule for flip and would also have filled my tent by then, but they would be 10/11 weeks from seed pop. After a week of flip will be the first signs of preflowers, so that's around week 12 after seed pop before pushing flowers...? She's not even in her final pot yet. Probably gona transplant 2 weeks before flip so she can still do some serious stretching, but I know once they flower you don't repot. So if she was pushing flowers now already I would really be upset more than anything else.

I really hope it was just the nutes, will keep an eye on her. Some other leaves have started reacting that way too, the plant is only 6 weeks old from seed pop and on 3rd week of feed going into 4th week now so all the leaves are new still. 

Taking her out of the pot will be difficult, because she's in a material pot and they don't take out as easy as a plastic pot and the plant was also only transplanted maybe 2 or 3 weeks ago.

My RH in the tent ranges between 45 and 55%

Will remove those leaves and put copper soap on my shopping list, will be ordering some stuff from this hydroshop everyone say is operating right now! Otherwise, in my crop protection box there is BioNeem and BioAmpelo. I have done two treatments with the Neem and usually just 3 or 4 Ampelo treatments during early flower. 

Oh shib man, fungi damage? Would it be a fungi that attacts the leaves directly or at the roots?? Is there a way to rectify this or prevent future fungi damage? 

Anyway, ladies all got fed and, because it's near end of the week I bumped her nutes up to the following weeks ratios one feed earlier so hopefully that will feed her Ca/N demand, if that was it.

I assume this dude is keeping the plant bug free? Haven't seen any other bugs in the garden. 

Thanks. Not overwatered. What about Calcium deficiency? The brown spots amongst the yellowing looks more like she needs C than N, the rest of the plant is dark green. Any thoughts? 

This plant is only a few weeks old, shouldn't be lock out. What do you guys think? Growing in Freedom Farms premium classic and using hortimix salt based nutes on her second week of feed, but she's growing quite fast! I transplanted her, about 2 weeks later I saw yellowing and a few spots on the bigger fan leaves and now it's showing a little on some of the new leaves and the stress is kicking in!! 

I would love to cover my house in solar panels and harness as much energy from the sun as possible, we will get there, but for now I will be making the best of the endless free energy coming from the skies by growing out some weed!! 

I have always been popping seeds in the ground just trying to get some bud, grew many bag seeds only harvested a couple plants I thought worth my time and effort. These days I wont pop a seed if I don't atleast have high hopes, keeping in mind where the mother grew. I know these days, with the legal thing happening, outdoor gets poillinated more than before so this all will probably change. Untill it does I will probably still be trying my luck with the high hopes and besides that I am lucky enough to sometimes have some special seeds fly my way! 

This is what's happening in the garden right now, two ladies from my buddies special seed bank. Not really a seed bank, but he likes to grow and always have some real interesting things going on!

Last two photos is a different plant from the first few photos.

I tend to spend almost no energy or nutes or anything on these girls. If I see from an early stage some promising signs I would maybe care a little more, but they just doing what they do, stinking up the place.

8 Days Later and I guess enough has happened to give you all an update. 

The same goed for them all, Hortimix A,B as schedule reccomend along with vermipure liquid compost and on a manual  "feed, feed, flush" cycle. Added microbes and DE in all medium. 2 plants are in completely different medium, because of this lockdown shit, and they aren't all the same age so I will give attention to them all individually.

I have tied down all of them, I will be installing a trellis net aswell, but they all have to be repotted once more before I can do that.

1. Cheese - 10L material pot with Freedom Farms premium classic medium, week 3 of feeding schedule. Had one BioNeem treatment. No problems.

2. Banana Hammock - 10L material pot with FF prem mix, 3 weeks of feeding, same cycle as the cheese plant, also one BioNeem treatment. No problems.

4. Blueberry - 12L plastic pot (the bottom of pot is like 50% breatheable and the pot has feet raised about 2cm off the ground so I feel like it's a pretty good pot, we will see! She was planted in a mix of fine compost, some potting soil, a good a mount of 50/50 coco/perlite and just a bit of vermiculite. she's on her 2nd week of feeding, but I see she might be lacking some Nitrogen, though? She also had one BioNeem treatment. What do you guys think? Would a natural light photo work better? 

4. Blueberry #2 - 10L material pot, planted in the same mix as the first Blueberry plant. She's in her 3rd week of feeding, but also picked up some problems here. Looks like calcium deficiency, but I would like to hear what some of you seasoned growers have to say? She also had one BioNeem treatment. When I was busy spreading her open I accidentally snapped a branch right on a node, I held it in place with one hand and made a nice wire frame to keep her in place and it seems she already repaired herself! Will include photo below

5. Super Lemon Haze - The late sprouter, she's still in a 5L plastic pot in FF prem mix with Myco and DE, will have to plant her in the same mix as the blueberries cause of this damn lockdown that's all I have on hand. She's on her 1st week of feed. Haven't had a BioNeem treatment yet. Topped her once. 

Niiiiice!! Those are some beautiful buds!!! You're in for a good time hahah I enjoyed watching the last bit of that grow hahah I would love to see what happens to that big bud plant! 

Give a smoke report on that white widow when shes all ready! She should be getting tastier and smellier by the day now! 

That biltong box sounds like it should do the trick! I don't like talking about this, but trimming is probably the worst thing about weed hahah I would definitly say hold off on trimming at all untill you find smaller thin branches snap when you bend the bud back. When the leaves almost come off by themselves you know you're good. If you have little jar hygrometers they should still read about 60 - 65% humidity when you jar them and that will allow for a slow cure and that's really where the magic happens. I like to start smoking when it gets to about 55% humidity, bud below 50% is something I do not prefer. 

I would love to see some bud shots man!!

Again, well done on that grow man, I think one thing we can all agree on is how satisfying it is to complete a grow and just the fact that it's so simple yet so hard and in the end it makes the effort, time and energy seem like nothing compared to what you get back. By far the most rewarding plant to grow, in my opinion. 

Oh wow! Very exciting!!! I hope you got a good couple of empty jars laying around cause they will need a cure after dry before you will really enjoy the smoke. 

Hahahah the pollen sacs always show up if you push the plant a bit longer!

So, this biltong dry rack you speak of, is it light proof? Best is complete darkness and yes that 50% humidity will be fine. A slow dry is the way to go, for sure, however if your bud is still kinda soft and moist after 7 days I would say it's too slow and you're at risk of mold, always keep that in mind. 

After the dry, you gona trim up the buds and drop them in jars, do 30min burps every day for a week, after that burp every other day. Point of the burp is for fresh air exchange, so if you see the buds are packed or don't move it's good to give the jar a little shake or just make some of the buds loose so the moist air between them can escape. Do this for a good 3/4 weeks before you try the smoke for the first time, anything sooner will be a waste of weed and will probably not be all that pleasant. 

My bet would be that both factors, the genetics and how they where handled are both contributing factors in the different grow structures. 

Only a pleasure! 

Ludwigs organic stuff is nice, no problem with it. I would still like to recommend BioNeem, just because it's a mild foliar feed aswell as insecticide and keeps most bad bacteria at bay aswell. One thing to keep in mind is that it's a preemptive so you can't use it to control infestations and stuff, but rather to prevent those situations. The fact that it keeps my plant healthy and everytime I use it my leaves shine and look super thick and happy AND helps the plant fend for itself against pests and what not, keeps me coming back for more, always have a bottle on hand. 

About the DE, you might not find it as easy, not all nurseries have it. You can get it at the hydroshop. I have seen a generic form of it in some nurseries, it's a product called "Worteldokter".

18 hours ago, Zah said:

Shes showing about 10% amber now

Sent from my SM-N970F using Tapatalk
 

Awesome! Just in one day, that's pretty cool. I hope the darkness was a contributing factor! I'm with @Stinger96, did you chop her? 

Glad to share some knowledge, bud! After all help is what we all came here for, that and our shared level of enthusiasm concerning this plant! 

That's a real shame losing that seedling man, I'm sorry for the loss! You don't perhaps have a pic of the larvae? What pesticide are you using?

That is one big reason why I pop seeds in jiffies, they're bleached so basically free of any living organisms and contaminant free! If you use distilled or RO water you're basically just providing a moist environment for the seed, you will never run into any problem unless the seeds are duds. Then you just have to chek temps (for seed sprouting I would say 5°C above growing conditions is perfect, so I let it range between 33°C and 38°C, try to stay below thay 40 mark, perfect) and probably the most important is to have nice direct light contact when the seed breaks surface. Humidity is not actually all that important to be completely honest. 

The seedling is in jiffy for like a week then transplant, by then the plant has already established a root, that will give you the ability to mix a soil with a good amount of Diatomaceous Earth in it, not only does it kill living organisms aspecialy larvae, but it also feeds the roots, provides trace elements and some calcium.  You could try popping the seed directly into the mix with the DE in it and skip the jiffy, but you have to be aware that in turn that can cause problems too expecting a seed to pop in all kinds of mediums. Seeds actually literally only need moisture to pop and break surface. Infact any kinds of nutes or anything more than just plain moisture can cause more harm than good. Jiffies are so cheap and the difference it makes is really quite something. 

Stay far far faaaar away from giving any seedling any treatment untill the first set of true leaves and then start by half dosages till they're 4/5 nodes tall then you can use the recommended dosage. I've seen people introduce mycorrizhea in the seed soak stage, (which honestly makes no sense at all in my opinion) and none of the seeds popped, about half of them cracked open and showed a little tap root, but never made it past that. So when I say your seed needs only moisture, I literally mean only moisture. That's also another reason why people seed soak and then the paper towl method till you see a 1cm long tap root then you know it's not a dud atleast. Then into jiffy and I'm telling you man, 95 to 100% success rate. 

I've always been hoping and steering to a universal change in perspective and I really hope this has more posetive impact on the big picture than negative.

Usually I don't like to quote people, but here's two from, what I would concider some rather insperational people. I hope it brings good energy and provides some motivation.

"Though the problems of the world seem increasingly complex, the solution remains embarrissingly simple." - Bill Mollison

"Instead of controling the environment for the benefit of the population, perhaps we should control the population to ensure the survival of our environment." - David Attenborough. 

Words will never seem like enough if your not willing to rise to the occasion and there's no excuse for laziness.

For a tranny that still looks pretty good hahah I'm with @Bospatrollie2 on the time thing, if it's gona pollenate your crop and you didn't want that, then chop her asap.

Oh yeah, was just about to say, picking out the seeds when preparing for a smoke will probably be the only down side? The difference in potency from the plant having to invest energy into seeds while flowering will most probably be unnoticable, she might put out little bit smaller buds than she would've, maybe not even, but things like that might differ. The weed is still weed, though.

How about making some extracts or something?