Naughty.Psychonaut

think I may just wash them anyway, just incase.

what's good brother, hope you are well aaah faq man, sad sight to see. the auto thing still has me scratching my head, but OK... it's almost as if my suspicion was warrented, but hey what do I know about growing weed? what you are doing there is trying your luck. and there is nothing wrong with that, we all start there. here's some food for thought, if you pop 100 seeds in 100% perfect conditions you still gona have a few that don't pop... how do you know that one single seed you popped was meant to carry you through? maybe it was just the weak one. PLUS conditions aren't favourable. PLUS it's an auto seed.... so many things against you, I would scratch this up as a school fee and start planning new. if you growing bunch of different phenos (each seed within one specific strain is a different pheno from the seed next to it in the very same strain) and one dies or doesn't pop you really can't say it's directly linked to anything specific. maybe it was just a weak pheno. to test conditions you really need to have at least more than one of the exact same thing, and cross reference for end result as "control". multiple clones of one pheno, one grown in good conditions so when you harvest you can see if your run was successful or not. sometimes the best of strains can be grown in unfavourable conditions making that strains taste and smoke like ditch weed, I call that a failure. at our rookie learning level we should just be focused on growing a plant, which anyone can do. for the most part weed grows everywhere. you don't need to be a wizard or a "grower" just to grow a plant. here's two options that'll make you good as gold. you don't have to take or even like my advice at all, but I am still gona give it for good measure. 1. Get feminised photoperiod seeds. Get multiple seeds of 1 strain. not singles. pop them all at once. as they are photoperiods you don't need to pop them in the final pot, so it's easier to keep temps above 25°C till they standing. keep them inside for the heat, they obviously don't need to be outside to pop, infact the cold can and will stunt them while they're babies. once they're up you take them outside, but keep them protected with something keeping them upright and shielded from winds and animals and shit. OR. 2. Talk to some of us about clones, we got tons of reputed strains going around here, most of them grown out for you to cross reference the end result, you literally don't have to spend any money PLUS you don't have to pop any seeds... now does that not sound magical? I think I have offered before, if not I am now.

another week later still just running on clean water. though next watering will be second microbe inoculation and first feed of 0.5ml/L biogrow, the biogrow is not to exactly meant to feed the plant here, more of a source of food for the microbes as it has molasses in it with a bunch of other goodies for the microbes to snack on while they find their new homes in the rhizosphere. also slapped down the scroggy so I can play with them, can always move the net, I just find it easier and less time consuming than taking each individual plant out for LST.

another week later, because of the crazy loadshedding times I did a KHCO2 treatment, hopefully will be last before harvest time. what's the feeling on KHCO2 within 3 weeks of harvest? should I bud wash or no? Frosted Apricot Super Cheese Chernobyl Blueberry Hashplant French Macaron - she wins star of the show with just her terps alone very very offensive smell. I have a pair of leather fellies, the smell I get from this plant is the same smell those fellies give off after a looong hard day of working and sweating in them on the farm in the blatant sun! wondering if the "french" part of the name was inspired by the smell of horrible body odor. blessed weekend for all

my 10cm inline fan, smallest of the extractor fans, got a pot on it I use it in my veg tent, can slow her down for higher RH if needed during summer. It never gets shut off completely.

aaaah shit sorry, silly me I never considered where you at, but yeah that makes a lot more sense to keep the cash for genetics, I'm with you on that one!

I recharge and topdress with one single product - Elemental blend. recharge post harvest, 100g topdress when needed. clean water from begin till end, one product, one move.

that's what they should be saying instead of "won't burn your plants" muuuuuuch better marketing tactic if you ask me, but if you tell your customers to not use much of your product it takes longer for them to get back in store to buy some more. which I find is kak dom, cause if I use a product and it fucks up my plants cause of advice given on the bag, I am not using that product anymore. a little goes a long way, damn man if I heard that back when I started out I would've saved myself so much time and resources.

this key is golden brother, have made biiig mistakes myself that way this comes down to that thing I mentioned long ago, there's big word of mouth in the organic growing comunity of "it's organic, you don't have to worry about it burning your plants" which is the biggest load of bull I have ever heard. the worst marketing tactic ever. I almost got turned off organics thinking I would never figure it out and everyone makes it out to be so easy... If you can say "it wont burn your plants" as a marketing tactic without having to say how much you should give and not exceed that amount, does that not also go for synthetic nutrients aswell? or well, with all nutrients for that matter.... look at this, I was given some Volcanic Rock Dust this week, first thing I noticed.... that last point, "wont burn your plants".... got me reeeeaaal excited if you know what I mean, so excited I almost tossed the bag in the bin, but convinced myself I could probably make the best of it. I do gardening other than cannabis growing so more fertilisers always welcome. Just below "won't burn your plants" is the application rates and some people will argue that obviously you have to stick to the amounts provided, but that's just my point exactly, if you can say "it won't burn your plants" - ONLY IF YOU USE THE PRODUCT AS ADVISED - then the same goes for synthetics.

that's the first cool thing about the elemental blend, we know what's in it. would be cool if you could use just the talborne by itself, but there's a reason why we can't. working in the commercial nurseries between 2012 and 2016 we pushed a whole lot of talborne onto anyone, looooong before the big cannabis wave came over. basically, talborne is generic and not formulated for cannabis specifically, though it works well, it's made for commercial use. for Talborne as a company who wants their products to be used by commercial growers they cannot focus on cannabis specifically, they need to cover a broad spectrum of crops so they focus mainly on the macronutrients, with the addition of micronutrients and trace elements that naturally comes with some of the organic compounds they use. as they say they're not a compost, but rather concentrated organic compounds. elemental blend is formulated for cannabis specifically and using one product is way less of a headache than having to guess between 5 different things. ✌

Organic is the waaaayy your plants seem to be enjoying what you do for them! did you amend a super soil by building it or did you buy super soil and further amended it? super soils usually can be used just like that, out the bag, clean water till harvest. are you aiming for most cost effective or you just looking for a cheap way? you didn't give us any prices? it cost me a total of R180 to reammend 100L of soil for a whole grow and I only give clean water from begin till harvest, with the exception of 1 or 2 biobloom feeds during flower. if needed. the R180 goes to a bag of elemental blend, 10L of this stuff will recharge 100L of soil. You can plant in a craft soil, give clean water till they start asking for nutes then just topdress with 100g of the elemental blend and repeat everytime it's needed. no need to guess what's needed or more of one and less of the other, much less confusion when you just scoop 100g of one thing one time and there you go. those 5 componenets you mentioned there covers a broad spectrum for sure, but it's far from everything. here is a list of ingredients in the elemental blend. quite a few more things and I bet it's cheaper and waaaaayy easier to use

Flowering a couple smaller ladies under the sun Zweet Inzanity, front right corner, just starting, will have to finish her inside when I have space, don't think there's enough time to finish her outside. Last of the Deluxe Sugarcane mother, far back, kept a clone. she's also only starting out, will see how things go. Last of the Blueberry Hashplant, short fatty in front, didn't keep a clone, she's getting dropped. Forbidos, front left, this is the first of her flowers for me, got a big plant I took clones off, clones will be run indoors in the near future. She's a stinker. solid buds with nice colours.

cool, shops around you selling seeds or clones? I would suggest a clone with good rep from a grower with good rep. seed packs are always a gamble cause you don't know the pheno you getting till you have grown it out, yet they're easier to come by. the reason I would suggest a clone is because you wana test your light, right? so going with a clone which you already know what the weed should look like post harvest and having something to cross-reference the end result to will give you more accurate indication if your light is doing what it should be doing or not. if you grow seeds you never really know if you just got an airy pheno or a good pheno. so if it comes out airy you couldn't blame the light. the buds you show in the photo there looks like they could've gone a lot longer or they needed a lot more light, but they don't look fully formed at all.

you can intercept your power line of your inline fans with a potentiometer + capacitor resistor... simple matter of knowing the output of the fan running into an electronics shop and asking for a potentiometer + capacitor resistor that can handle that load and dim it. potentiometer is just the fancy name for a dimmer. then you can control your fan speed with the turn of a knob.

flower tent update Blueberry Hashplant Super Cheese Chernobyl Frosted Apricot French Macaron

a week later

aha that's an important piece of info I over looked! these where all in 30L, soo all together 150L of root space for that grow. could have vegged them a lot longer, cause they where quite far from being root bound, I have thought of using my 20L's again and reducing the amount of soil, but since mixing my own soil I would rather go with the extra root space even if I don't need it hey wait...... could this be a reason for the looooooooong ass stretch before the pistils came in??? I doubt it, but still scratching my head on that one.

@wingwing how's it going bud! I am loaded with questions, it's good to have a plan before renting the bulldozer. It's good to kinda just "wingwing-it" (see what I did there ) and in a lot of cases you don't have a choice but to wing it... ...but like the thing with the light, that's something you need to know, I would suggest LED then working around that later on, easy to pop in a heater and have it on a sonoff switch so it'll only come on when needed. but if you already have HID or something that gives off it's own heat you wouldn't need a heater... in which case I would still suggest to get rid of the HID and make the jump to LED. reason for that is, it's easy to heat up a room when needed, but trust me you gona be pissing tears of frustration during summer to cool the HID down. a lot of HID owners I know can't even grow during summer..... sooo, LED it is. When I saw what you busy with, first thing that popped into my head, cause you not using a tent, but rather building a solid room, I see you got extraction sorted, I don't see anything regarding intake? You gona seal the room? Tents usually have passive intakes near the bottom, but if you have a sealed room you'll be suffocating plants if you suck all the air out without letting fresh air in. with sealed rooms active intake is really the only option. so you'll need another inline fan. and need to make a hole for intake aswell as extract. either that or don't seal the room by making passive intakes like tents have, you just need to figure out how to filter the air that passes through there and also block light from coming in there during your dark cycle. Active intake = a inline fan pushing fresh air in from outside with a hole the size of the fan you'll be using for the ducting to enter. Passive intake = a much bigger hole where there is no extra inline fan, but rather the space will start passively sucking air in as the extractor creates a vacuum. the extraction, for that size, don't go bigger than a 10cm inline fan, and obviously your ducting will have to be the 10cm ducting so it can fit the fan..... anything bigger than the 10cm extractor will be overkill for that space. then my last suggestion would be to grab some photoperiod plants and make it all much much much muuuuch easier on yourself. whatever auto you got the photoperiod of that same strain already exists and you can treat photoperiods like autos and flower them at any size, but you can't treat a autoflower like a photoperiod, and if you try the auto will show you the finger and turn against you. autos are for seasoned growers that have their situations fine tuned with no hickups! that's why I don't grow them, yet.

I realised I never did a final tally on that last batch, been long enough that I can probably give a full report. friend asked for photos of the Frosted Apricot, came here to look at what I posted, but nothing... so here goes. starting with the smallest girl Frosted Apricot - Inhouse Genetics Total Yield = 32g + 6g popcorn. Terpenes are almost non-existent the plant never really got to see the light, I completely neglected her from the start hence the low yield. chopped a whole lot of her away to make space for the other plants. I will say however the weed is kak strong, just not the most enjoyable smoke, that's why I am running her again and paying more attention to her this time. Buds are quite big, but that could just be cause I stripped her so much and tried to only leave the tops. Buds are nice and dense and just as the name suggests, quite frosty! Blueberry Hashplant - Bodhi Seeds Total Yield = 65g + 10g popcorn. Terpenes are getting stinkier by the week. When I first harvested this lady I immediately told myself she'll be dropped from the rotation, purely based on smell. the looks and high was there, just didn't smell or taste right. had a smell, but wasn't tooo fond of it, after spending some time in jars, cured to 62% and stored away, opening the jar after about a week it made the whole room stink. I get a strong fruit smell, not sure what fruit, but a sweet/sour smell. Buds look a little on the airy side, but they're hard as a rock, solid buds, have shown her, but will add the photos to complete the thread. Deluxe Sugarcane - Inhouse Genetics Total Yield = 222g + 16g popcorn. Terpenes are phenomenal. Just an offensive smell of slightly burnt sugar. couldn't say if that's just my mind and the name playing tricks on me, but the best way to describe it, my sister loves to bake and some recipes require melting down sugar, the smell I get off the buds are the same smell I get when there's some sugar being heated up on the stove or even the smell you get from blow torching the sugar layer ontop of a creme brulee. Nice strong smoothe smoke, lets you know you smoked some strong weed as soon as you exhale you're high and the taste lingers in your mouth, which I love! Buds are also rock solid, makes a wood on wood contact sound when dropping a nug on the table, being stacked so tightly even the smaller nugs weigh over a gram her nudes.. Summary Plant Count = 5 Total Yield = 350g Average Per Plant = 70g Light = 300w samsung DIY G/W = 1.166 Space = 1m x 1m x 2m

Nah have not dealt with them at all, just remember the LC needs to be called spores so they get by the legal stuff, but if it's spore swab or print it's more often times than not the legit shit.

Spores are legit when you wana spawn straight to substrate like with PFtek, but in the case of going for monotubs and bins you can clean up LC on agar too, no need to get spores for that. So the same syringe you get for the PF tek, you take that and drop one drop on a plate of agar. will have different colonies pop up, you wait for the strongest one and transfer to new agar dish. repeat this process till you have even growth that indicates something close to monoculture where there's little competition to thrive, they're your strongest and most prolific. take that agar, put it on bulk grains, use the bulk grains to spawn to bulk substrate and there you go. monotubs for daaaaaaayyys. you can also take the grain master culture and put it onto more grains, doubling, trippling even quadrupling your culture. also when you have a clean agar plate, it's easy to make 10 good agar plates from that one ans say you end up with another 5 master cultures you can go ahead and transfer 10 of each of those and you'll have between 40 and 50 plates of master culture. from there you just go crazy and dump psilocybe mycelium all over the place and wait for the magic to follow you

yeah do that and see how it goes, I am not completely sure how it will effect the second flush or even if that's the problem, but you should soak the cake beteween flushes. go for 36hrs and put something ontop of so it's submerged

Nah not mutation, just environmental. Mushrooms are extremely sensetive, they'll quickly show you what's up with your environment. Too much fresh oxygen and too little humidity = short stems with big caps Too much humidity with high levels of co2 with too little fresh air = loooong stems with tiny caps. The thing you mentioned about the perlite staying moist, that is 100% and it shouldn't deter you from misting. you should still mist. What I see there, the cake drying out till it turns brown on the surface, the muhrooms forming like there's not enough humidity it's all clear indication that there's too much fresh air, it's a too dry in there. needs humidity. this could also be low moisture content on the inside of the cake. you said you soaked it for 24hrs after you birthed it, right? well you also incubated for waaaaaayy longer than 2 weeks, which is the normal incubation period. cakes that are colonised within 2 weeks are still quite moist inside and has some weight to it, but then is still soaked for 24hrs. what I am suggesting is, yes I know you soaked the cake, but maybe it was already much drier than a cake that was only incubating for 2 weeks. you see? and maybe needed longer soaking? the perlite can be soaked, you just can't float cakes on water or they'll fall over, so you put perlite so there is a surface and sooooaaaak it, it must be wet wet wet, and as it slooooowly evaporates upwards it'll help trigger pinning aswell as add humidity inside the tub and will form condensation that obviously comes with high levels of co2 and needs to be fanned out more and more. and don't forget to roll your cakes in vermiculite!!! will help A LOT!

are you in WC? will let you know when I got extra clones

Hey bud the blueish bruising I see there indicates the presence of psilocybin and or psilocin. Those are some magic mushroom pins you got there brother yeah the cold can slow things down drastically even bring things to a complete halt especialy with mushrooms! but I also think this could be just the fact that the culture wasn't cleaned. happens to me a lot when I test cultures, I end up with only one or two shroomies then I make tissue culture from that one or two mushrooms I get, clean the culture till I have nice fast and even growth, then I put it to substrate and get full flushes you say you mist only when you don't see droplets on the side? why is this? this might seem conflicting with what I said before about you don't want your tub to dry out too fast... well you also don't want it to stay wet inside there for longer than the period it takes in between fanning and misting. you need to mist each time you gona fan, but you should fan more when you go to fan and mist. don't mist more than you fan.... other way around, fan a lot more than you mist... this is also why fresh air is so important, no air should get stagnant. remember bigger droplets take longer to evaporate, so mist with something that makes the finest mist with the smallest droplets you can possibly find. and literally only mist like 2/3 sprays and let the droplets fall where they may. you only want a teeeeeetsy bit of moisture on the surface. and you wana replace that moisture as often as possible, by continuously evaporating the old moisture off, without letting the cake dry out... walking a tight rope here helps a lot if the cake is hydrated and never dried up. idealy, you would like to use fog which is not the same as mist. the air particles between mist is much less than with fog, fog has more fresh air in it thus doesn't carry as much water and also evaporates much quicker. best in the bizz is those ultrasonic foggers / humidifiers from clicks. you can also use the pond fogger from the hydro store. If I can draw a small little "flow diagram" it will make it much easier to understand, but what triggers pinning is moisture evaporating off the surface of the mycelium.... Open SFC, fan all the old air out for about 1 min, then mist lightly so it doesn't take too long to evaporate, then fan again before you close to induce evaporation... should be dry by the next time you come to do the same. your cake should never be dry but also never wet. the dunk & roll after birth makes all this muuuuuuuuch easier