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Naughty.Psychonaut

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Everything posted by Naughty.Psychonaut

  1. Thanks man we got these strips in 3000K. no doubt you're right about the red diodes making the difference. you have a good plan there, I haven't thought about that, yet. I am now, though my bar LED in my flower tent is just over 300W also 3000K, but it's the LM561C diodes. I can let the plants come within 5 to 10 cm of the light without light stress, cz it's so soft, then you get good penetration. I pull average about 80 to 100g off a plant in a 0.2m space. but I am sure it will be even better with the deep / far red diodes I have 5 plants in a 1m x 1m tent, giving each plant 0.2m2. I've harvested 3 batches flowered under this light. everytime I hit between 400 to 500g. that's more than 1g/W I have a perpetual cycle, I have found if my flowering ladies take long to finish up I leave the veg area running for longer and ending up with bigger plants and also bigger yield, landing more on the side of 500g and times when I move smaller plants into flower I land more on the side of 400g. so I guess that's also a contributing factor. but then like you said, bud quality..... we want those golf ball rock buds. I guess that's where the red diodes come in to make the biggest difference. I think the little bit it adds to the spectrum provides the plant with a certain chemical or causes a certain chemical reaction in the plant that it benefits from. it's only natural, though. If you think about sunlight it is literally a mix of everything, it's the fullest of full spectrums out there and that's what the plant wants and it pumps full power. not a certain amount of power being devided amongst different spectrum outputs. it's full blast everything. if we could replicate that, it would be amazing, but for now adding deep / far red diodes to a 3000K is already one step closer. plus we know it's not all about spectrum, some LEDs have a fuller spectrum, but less of other stuff and the configuration is shit then the light doesn't perform. example of this is the far red and IR diodes I have in my blurple light. they don't mean shit, just cause the rest of the light is shit I'll let the guy finish a grow with that light on his own, let him play around with it, will take a look at the results and report everything then see what we gona do to improve
  2. I agree man those ladies looking good and they pushing the frost like it's no ones business, no doubt you gona have a lekker stinky harvest!!! a thing to keep in mind, the very very best grower in the world, the guy running thousands of plants at a time with no struggles and no hassles is sitting figuring out ways to better his practice, because there is always room for improvement and there is always something we can do about it, doesn't matter what it is. that's why the guy who is the best, is the best. cause there came a time where he accepted that he doesn't know everything and has some more stuff to learn and opened himself up to change and try new things. we can look at that information and take it personal and be negative about the fact that someone pointed out a flaw in something we did or we can be positive and constructive about it and use the information to our advantage. no one is here to beat on anyone, we all here because we wana help one another achieve better results with our cannabis growing adventures. anyway, enough ranting on! those indoor ladies organic or synthetic? I see you talking about 2ec, so I am assuming you doing a synthetic grow? Going the GHPF in a coco medium will be concidered organic and you'll need to add microbes and what not. all the organic stuff. if you growing syntetic, strictly coco and salt nutes I would say just do a runoff EC test? this should give you an indication of what's going on in the medium. 2ec in a synthetic situation should be 100% for those size plants, so I am sure you have some kinda build up. the plants with the claw leaves and I see one with burnt tips, you could easily fix. just stand back with nutrients till they start asking again. or till they look 100% then carry on feeding. if you wana carry on just as you where, I would suggest a nice flush with clean water of about 2 to 3 times the amount of feed you would give. then with next feed you carry on with 2ec. pretty much the same if you're doing organic growing, except you have to let the pots dry to 30-50% after the flush. where as coco mediums you have to keep above 50% moisture at all times. with organic you flush properly and wait a good couple days till its dry and carry on with your regime.
  3. Finally convinced a friend to upgrade from HID, helped him build a LED qb bar light. He was thinking of retiring the HID for many reasons. replacing shit the whole time. electricity consumption. heat.... told him if he puts out the cash I'll source and order the shit for him, recieve everything and when time comes to slap it all together I'll just need a hand, he just needed that last nudge and so it begins! I think I was more excited about the build than he was! He's got a 1.2m x 1.2m x 2m tent, so we basically copied the 4'x4' example design on LED gardener, used the Q series samsung LM301H strips in 3000k. First things first, size of the tent will determine the size of the frame that we build for the LEDs. Work out how much Aluminium strip we gona need. Source local aluminium extrusions. This was the only profile available in bulk on the day, we didn't wana wait, so we planned around this. You can work with any profile and have any extrusion company roll out the profile you want at the lenght you want. Easiest part of the build. Having the aluminium, knowing how you can lay strips on the extrusion profile you can use this information to spread out the LED strips as much as possible so there are no fluxuation areas. no need to raise the hight of the light to get better coverage which would mean loosing intensity. no need to have to have certain height requirements for best output, because you don't have excessive heat coming from the light and not ALL the light comes from one spot and then has to spread, instead you spread the strips out further so you can bring them closer to your plants without having intensity issues. also the configuration being a bar style light you wont have issues with the fixture heating up at all. we run the light for 18hrs, shine laser thermometer on the frame from below the light source, got 34°C. 5cm away from the light source on the aluminium frame we got 29°C and at leaf surface at 15cm away it was room temperature... will get a apogee under the light asap, if anyone wants to follow up on that. now, the layout.... knowing what amount of strips you gona use and the size of tent you have to put them all in, you build a frame that can easily fit inside the tent then just space out the strips as much as possible. Next step was to cut the aluminium to the right lengths and clean up the edges. Along with the aluminium for the frame you'll need the smallest pop rivets the shop has to offer and a aluminium drill bit same size as the rivets. Now, slap the frame together. 2 long slats get a tine 45° corner cut out the flat so the fin is still in one peice, make a small cut on the other side so you're able to bend the aluminium without it snapping. grab a big 90° angle, make sure you have 2 x 90° angles. lay them together making sure all 4 corners are 90°, throw some clamps on, drill right throug the 2 corners that meet and pop them together with the rivet. Now grab a electrical junction box to hide all your wire conections, use the junction box to space out the aluminium stips, making sure you can fit enough strips on to accommodate all the LED strips needed. using a pensil, mark out where the aluminium strips lay and number them 1 - X and mark the frame with numbers corresponding to the strip that goes there. drill holes in all the aluminium strips where you need to pop them to the frame, put them back on the frame using the numbers to see where each one goes, use the hole im the aluminium strip to mark where you need to drill into the frame, drill all the marked points, lay them out, pop them in. here is what ours looked like at this point. BOOOM!!!!! got a digikey box in the mail It's all there and all undamaged! Now that we have the driver. it's time to build a bracket to hold the driver in place. same like we built the square for the frame, just a small one, like this.... -note the corners driver still has some space to move around, but sits nice and snug, we ended up putting two small self tap screws throug the screw slots at the bottom of the driver to hold it in place, didn't get photos of it, but did get photos of how we attached the bracket to the frame, using two small peices of aluminium and popping them onthe the fins upside down we now had a flat surface to mount the bracket onto. like this... Here's where we're at now, Time to make this big boy easy to hang! 5.5mm threaded hooks with 2 self locking nuts, one screwed all the way to the top and one to hold it in place. Time to slap on some double sided thermal tape, this tape can hold up to 60kg at 120°C.... or so it sais..... so it should work! AND YOU KNOW WHAT COMES AFTER THE THERMAL TAPE!!!!! FUCK YEAH step by step getting there!!! now for the fun part, the wire nightmare.... luckily I have OCD-AF and find great therapy in wire management! we also quickly reaslised that we're going to need more than one junction box, easy peasy, the driver has 2 outputd so slap another one on the other side of the driver and have half the wires one side of the light and other half on the other side. I got so carried away with finishing up the light I never took a photo of what the wiring looked like when I was finished, but that was by far the most satisfying thing about the whole build. when time came to plug the bitch in I was just focussing on the damn light. here she is in all her pride and glory here she is lighting up the tent, and this is where she'll be for the next 10 years probably. hopefully. it's a 1mx1m frame in a 1.2m x 1.2m tent - fits perfect. those intetested in the wire work if you wana see what it looks like I'll lower the light to take a couple photos, otherwise this last photo will show just how hidden and tucked away everything is. not one loose hanging wire, no excessive wires, no bulky no extras. Now to answer some questions..... LED Strips - R3831 Driver - R2300 Import Tax - R1500 Aluminium - R600 Thermal tape - R200 Ratchet ropes x 2 - R300 Those are all the more expensive parts of the build, the other stuff like hooks, wires, wago connectors, cable ties + hooks for wire management, pop rivets all those things gona work out +/- another R500 Let's say all in all = R9231 that's that. buddy got 3 x Peanut Butter Breath cuts and 3 x Canna Health Genetic #21 cuttings under that light, potted in FF premium classic, will post few updates here as things progress. have a good weekend all!
  4. fuk yeah man, well done!!! that nug porn made me...
  5. I remember seeing that name around yeah, hopefully all is well with the man! oh well, I guess you're right, I know a whole lot of growers and I am the only one in my friend group that uses the forum. one or two guys that are aware of the forum, but they never bothered with other peoples growing and or asking for information to each their own, they say! all good man, no pressure on updating or anything, I just wanted to check in and check up, the community likes to hear and see form the rest of the members! keep strong
  6. Ladies are looking gooood man yeah a hiccup can cost some time, but I have seen and experienced muuch worse hahah seems like you got your hand on them though and they gona thank you for providing that HPS for flower can't wait to see!
  7. ☺ oh stop it!! Thanks for the kind words brother! don't know if it's just me, but I see a lot less engagement on the site and I wana try call on some of the more recent threads to keep the activity pumping! also haven't seen any activity from some of the long term members that used to interact here on the daily, I just hope everyone is still doing fine and all in good health!
  8. Hey @Righteoussower hope all is well your side! Hows things going with your grows? Got a update for us, perhaps a smoke report by now?
  9. Hey @ChrisCPT hope all is well your side! Any updates for us?
  10. Thanks man love the doggo! wait, is it a dog? looks kinda like it could be a bunny? or maybe a cat? yeah it's easy to get carried away with the indoor projects, everything is interesting! I wana try out every method of growing all the time and constantly have the urge to completely change things up, maybe add a hydro setup or something. I think I am much more addicted to growing and looking at the plants, looking at setups, looking at equipment for different grow styles and all that, than I am out here for smoking the actual weed I see you got a big bush over there! just a random bush or some proper genetics?
  11. these? https://www.myshrooms.co.za/product/syringe-filter/
  12. 2 outdoor ladies harvested. small one came down 1st of March = 58g. big one came down 1st of April = 84g. this is the only space in the yard I have for outdoor cannabis growing, but it seems it wont do as it's only a 3m corridor between the house and vibracrete wall that doesn't get enough sunlight. got a 50w flood light in the greenhouse to keep mothers in veg through winter, but no more flowering outdoors for me..... with that being said, here's some more outdoor flowers had clones requested, but plans changed and I am not throwing plants away so I just put them outside so they can do their thing. not giving too much attention here. Blueberry Hashplant. Deluxe Sugarcane And then back to the chillies 🌶 picking a few of these every other day
  13. update here. not much happening, some pistils browning, BlueberryHashplant will be first to come down.
  14. smol update this week. not much happening, cleaned under canopy again, just getting clean water still. worked Sodium Bicarbonate into the weekly IPM in the veg tent. always got pyrol on hand and use it at least once on every batch, but only had to get it for the sake of bringing in foreign plants as contact treatment for the shit your eys can't see. when I spray Pyrol I spray only Pyrol 30 to 35ml / 1Lwater, strong dose, but not full dose. rest of the time it's BioNeem 70% dose one week, Copper Soap 70% dose next week, Sodium Bicarbonate full dose last week and then repeat rotation.... not that anyone was asking the ladies
  15. what's gooood @stretchy you notice the hectic clawing going on over there? usually a sign of leaning towards excessive N
  16. @jabulanithehutt try hitting the Natures Farmacy in Stellenbosch. definitely worth the drive out. make sure you got a good apatite and a good weed tolerance, the restaurant serves goooood food and the atmosphere is very cozy. they also have a fully lisenced bar don't know if they're all the same, but I enjoy the one in Stellenbosch a lot. there's a few of them. one in Vredekloof, one in Paarl, one in Hermanus. don't know of more. The one in Paarl didn't have a liqour lisence when I was there last so I only had a couple THC beers, which was also very nice you have to be a member to consume any cannabis on sight, here is the link https://oneculture.co.za/about-us/
  17. I agree, but OP is messing with HID and not LED, so the point I wanted to get across is that there are always better options to go with if you're only shooting for "being able to veg", why not spend less money and make it optimal? Move over to LED and care less about light stress. What I meant with my statement of putting a clone - young sensitive plant that stresses very easily - under 5000K LED at 40cm and comparing it to 3500K CFL at 20cm, like I am refering to here ..... ... is that the CFL will be a problem, because its not always about Watt/Kelvin/Lumins it's also about how you hang the thing to make the most out of the micromols/second that the light produces, and usually a CFL is known to not be strong enough to grow a plant, but it can easily stress your plants also if you use it wrong or the wrong kinda one. might be optimal at another time in the plants life, but saying it's OK to go with only one spectrum for the plants whole life is fine, but then you are gona have moments when the plant goes through a little bit of stress. I think about it like in nature, the sun doesn't stay the same all season through. if OP insists on keeping the HIDs I would say it's in his best interest to get some MH bulbs for veg, wont hurt, will it? LED is much more forgiving for the most part anyway, another win for the LEDs but it can also be used incorrectly!
  18. lol yeah nah the only interrupted light cycle that'll stress a plant is if it gets flashes of light or stray rays during their dark times. if your tent or grow room doesn't have pin holes or light leaks or plugs or appliances with tiny lights on them that are on inside the tent during dark time, you'll be fiiiiine been growing with loadshedding a couple years now, still havent even thought about putting my fans on UPS, luckily I am in the cape winelands so don't have to struggle with high RH at all really. can see it being a problem for the coastal oaks or the inland oaks during winter or any rainy seasons. I moved out of Hermanus maybe 2 years ago now, when I was there I alsmost had to get a dehumidifier, and they're expensive, luckily I moved away there also, I have such small setups it's easy to run through everything and make changes or correct anything that went wrong. another thing that can save your ass with the WPM is having a rigorous IPM regime and sticking to it religiously. have seen so many people throwing up their hands saying growing weed is the hardest thing in the world cz their plant keeps getting spider mites or WPM, I ask did you do IPM? then they look at me like I am crazy for even suggesting it. to those guys I just laugh and don't give them clones anymore. sure thing, shoot them anytime! I am far from a master though but thanks I am flattered
  19. I maintain my stance, 31°C will not stress them unless they under watered. what's clear cut though is that HPS is not meant to veg clones. and like you gathered by now, light does matter and more so "what kind of light" and "what distance" test it out yourself. get a clone put it under 5000K 50w LED at 40cm see how she does, then put a clone under a 3000K 50w CFL at 20cm, problem will look similar to what you have here. wrong kind of light. might be a bit confusing, but a light can be too intense and not strong enough to grow a plant at the same time. could also be watering problem as you running on sprinkler system? easy to have either over or under water problems with young clones especially in big pots too. do you lift the pots before watering to make sure they need warer? also they don't wilt before watering, that would be considered waiting a bit too long. could also just be cz your in Orgasoilux, I've toasted a plant in Orgasoilux with clean water, so I know they make their soil hot. no questions. this shouldn't be a problem though and will self rectify by just keep watering with clean water and no nutes. clones in fresh soil, even not so hot soil still only needs water for a while. organic growers have long been throwing around the term "it's organic it can't harm your plants" and nothing has ever been further from the truth. in some cases organics can fuck your plant worse than synthetics and it's very very easy to over do it wirh organics, because of the kak people been saying about moering everything, anything and their aunties in the soil if it's organic. infact, when it comes to organic, less is more. golden rule brother. I am gona repeat that for those in the back that can't hear, WITH ORGANICS LESS IS MORE! it's a fine art, it's not all about light, but if you have the watering conditions in check and you have the nutrients in check it's back to square one, the kind of light.
  20. I would say, advertise all your HIDs for sale asap, the more you use them the harder they'll sell. same time get a order ready for some LEDs, like prom mentioned he got some qbs off alibaba for good price, you could get something muuuuuuuuch better suited for your space, you could get a very very very cheap deal on LED components off digikey then source some local aluminium extrusions and build your own LED like a lot of us, we'll help you step by step through it all, then as soon as you have someone interested in the HIDs place the order for the LEDs, tell the HID guy they just need to wait till you got your LEDs to replace them, the day you get your LEDs you let the HID guy know his stuff is ready for collection. it's very simple really then you don't have to worry about aircons and paying through your ass when the electricity bill comes around. a reduction in monthly running cost is where it's at man, you don't wana harvest couple kilos, but then you pay the same price to Eskont that you would've paid to some street character for a bulk sale. also don't have to replace bulbs or ballasts and there's just generally much less stress with LED. so it's a no brainer for sure less heat, less maintenance and PT, less money spent on maintenance, one thing it has more of though, is light. which again is another one for the win. so like a win win win situation.
  21. Aah cool, I am glad you got everything sorted! keep us updated with the results! you don't need to worry about that, the only thing that can stress your plant is too much light during flower. which eskom will never do. If you're in veg cycle and the power goes off for 6hrs a day, use those 6hrs as your dark period and just let the lights run the rest of the 18hrs of the day the electricity is on. usually the worst it gets is 4 or 5 hours of loadshedding a day. we once had 6 hrs a day for about a month, but never again. as long as your veg plants can have 18hrs of light they fine, you could even get away with as little as 16hrs during veg. the 18hrs of light a plant needs to veg doesn't have to be all consecutive. same with flower during flower you only need 12hrs of light, giving you a window of 12hrs to make sure the dark periods fall during those times. much easier than with veg. what you do have to consider when talking about loadshedding is your fans. air sirculation. RH.......... the dreaded WPM the first problem you'll run into with no electricity will be some kinda fungi or insect. especially when you're in flower, buds carry a lot of moisture. During veg you want a bit of a higher RH reading somewhere between 50 and 65% is good. During flower you want a bit of a lower RH, because of the buds. a Tent or flower space tends to fill up more during flower aswell, so if you have a power outage it takes only a few minutes for the RH to skyrocket, even more so on a hot day and worst of all during rainy days and in winter!!! if you do end up with UPS system, run your fans and air sirculation off it rather than your lights.
  22. starting to shape up, getting stinkier by the day Frosted Apricot, just starting out Blueberry Hashplant will be first to finish, couldn't get a good shot, she's tucked away good, some buds flopping over already The Star of the show, Deluxe Sugarcane taking over the tent with complete disregard to its surroundings, growing straight through the light
  23. update I have been in the process of getting a new light for this tent, just haven't done it yet. Saw the great deal @Totemic offered, so I couldn't resist! Thanks again man, was a pleasure to meet you! added the 120w qb to help the blurple out a little here's a photo with both lights on, the 288 samsung qb almost overpowers the 300w blurp to anyone interested, the blurple is still up for sale together with some free seeds and free pots here is a few shots with just the 288 qb individual shots Blueberry Hashplant - she was stretching way too much so I made a bunch of cuttings Super Cheese - took a few cuttings of her aswell, just in case she's a keeper. French Macaron - added a photo of a friends outdoor plant, the one I got this cutting from Chernobyl Frosted Apricot - leaves praying like there's no tomorrow!
  24. I like what I am hearing and seeing so far huge project to take on for a new grower! more power to you man Sounds like you have a nice setup there, enough space to grow a shit ton of weed. that's for sure! Setup also seems like it has everything it needs. Just out of curiosity, how big is the extractor fan for that big room? I see you using HPS blubs to veg the clones. Is there a reason for this or was MH bulbs just not an option? MH bulbs gives off a much cooler white light that's more desired by the plant during veg. just a from my side, however vegging with the HPS is far from the worst thing, hell I've seen people veg with 3000k CFL bulbs and get away with it just cause it's the only option they have for the time being. no problem with it, but the plants will obviously grow much faster and happier if you give them exactly what they want when they want it. Touching on the question you asked, the light may be a contributing factor to the leaf curl, yes. What you have there is a form of "leaf canoe". The upward curl of the serrated edges of the leaf. There are other forms of leaf curl, all indicating different things. Most common cases for leaf canoe, in this order is: 1.Heat stress 2.Light intensity stress 3.Overwater stress 4.Overfeed stress. Let's look at them all individually. 1. The temperatures you're giving us seems A-OK. So scratch that one. 2. Light intensity? Could be, because your HPS is more for flowering. the difference between a veg light and flower light is during veg the light needs to be much softer, plants prefer the "cool white" spectrum during this time. during flower your plant wants "warm yellow" light and a lot of it. you'll see indoor growers dim their lights during veg and during flower it's full blast. flower lights are generally more intense and powerfull than veg lights. 3. Do you let the soil dry between waterings? How big is the pot and how big is the plant? Can the plant suck up all the moisture out of the soil before the next watering? If not you're over watering. 4. Do you have a PPM/EC probe? Can show you a test you could do to check the amount of nutrients in the soil. Orgasoilux is known to be a little hot (too much nutrients), because they jam pack that bag with enough nutrients to help you through till mid flower sometimes, but that could mean the soil is a little too hot for the younglings. You're still not burning tips so you're still safe, but this means no nutrients for a while. Just clean water till they start asking for nutes. Hope this helps!
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