PsyCLown

57 minutes ago, ORGANinc. said:

My experience is soil holds more water than Coco, Coco by itself or coco mixed with a few buffer ingredients here and there to help with root movement and ''some'' colonization will always hold far less water than a true Living system.

Science says that with living systems you can save between 5 and 7 times more water. That's why the more microbes in your system the more prone you are to overwatering. They increase the water holding capacity dramatically, if your soils structure is a miss they will first fix that too.

I think the being careful not to let your soil dry out is a huge fallacy and its causes newer growers to make the mistake of overwatering. Properly cared for plants with well mulched surfaces and environments on par will drink at most 7-10% of the container size ever 3 days or so. 

 

My experience has been the opposite that soil does not hold as much water as coco.

This has been soil out of the bag, like Freedom Farms or Organics Matter. Soil from my garden without a doubt holds far less water than the craft cannabis soils. The structure of the soil would certainly play a big role in the water holding capacity an it would vary between different soil mixes.

You can train your plants and/or make use of additives to help make the plants more robust and resistant to drought etc.

Microbes increasing the water holding capacity is news to me and my mind boggles to try understand this. The only way I see this working is with the microbes breaking down stuff in the soil - but then just adjust the way you compose the soil and you could have it hold more water from the get go.

I can understand that certain conditions or substances can lead to plants making use of less water, in which case you do not need to water as often.

Mulch and environment can play a big role in how often one needs to water as well. Hot days, low RH and the pots dry out quicker for sure.

I guess the next question would be how quickly does it happen? From opening a 30L bag of soil until the water holding capacity is increased significantly and even then, what would be classified as significant? I can understand one might not always want more water holding capacity as well though.

When I was growing with soil I preferred the Organics Matter over Freedom Farms.

I do not recall Orgasoillux, perhaps that was introduced after I moved away from soil.

Coco will hold more water than soil, it is also more important to ensure your soil never dries out completely as this will negatively affect the soil and microbes as it will lead to the soil compacting more and it is more difficult to rehydrate soil than it is coco. Soil will make for an easier transition to indoor growing though but deciding to go coco or hydro off the bat is not a bad idea either as you know how to grow and have some experience... Plus it is not all that difficult or different to be honest.

On 9/28/2021 at 8:39 PM, donnob said:

The tent is up and what a high end piece of gear!! The only... only... gripe I have is that the drawstrings for the vents are a bit thin and don't do such a great job of closing off the vent. Other than that, this tent is fucking amazing. Just trying to pull the material over the poles you'll know that it's quality, that shit is heavy!

Thanks for all the advise that led me to this purchase guys..

I think the issue with the drawstring is the material is textured and a bit grippy, which makes pulling on the drawstring a bit of a mission.

If it was PTFE lined or another material which is not as grippy, I think it would work well then.

Glad you like your tent though!  

So I was wondering, price aside, which is your preferred rolling paper / cone?

There are loads, so I mentioned some of the more popular or common ones and then there is an other option and you can just mention it in your post.

Welcome!

Freedom Farms green bag soil is very popular for indoor use, as well as a few other soils.

As for using nutes with the soil, I personally prefer to (when I was using soil) and many growers make use of nutes with their soil but some prefer to use just plain water, some make teas - it varies a bit and personal preference comes into play here.

You could add a few extra amendments, but I do not feel it is really necessary. Perhaps start simple and do not add any additional amendments and see how it goes. Later on once you're comfortable you can look at tweaking it a bit or look at moving to a different medium for indoor.

If I was in your situation, I would go with plain soil and feed nutes. Depending on which nutes you plan to use, you can go lower or if it has a soil chart (Like GHE / Terra Aquatica nutes) then follow that. When I was using soil I was giving nutes with every feed.

If you have any additives or foliars, you can continue to use those as per normal.

Never seen that bug before, no clue whether it is a good thing or not.

Also curious now.

Welcome and enjoy your stay!

Why not start a grow diary?  

@Wondergom All good, welcome and enjoy your stay!  

If you have a grow going, why not consider starting a grow diary?

Welcome @Wondergom

I am not active on Reddit much but will take a looksy.

You same the person claiming to be banned? You are not banned on this forum and no logs of you having been banned either.

The member you mentioned in that thread is not a moderator either.

The forum staff are @420SA @Ill_Evan @CreX and myself @PsyCLown

3 hours ago, Pierre76 said:

nothing gets past you.... yes... had some bugs on them. does that also stun their growth?

 

I am actually not sure whether it slows down flowering times, but based on my experience it can lead to unahppy plants.

I had some thrips really damage a lot of my plants leaves in a previous grow and the quality of the bud wasn't great and I had one or two of those plants die before I wanted to harvest them. I believe it would also reduce the photosynthesis capabilities of the plant due to the damaged leaves.

I'd say monitor the plants and keep them in flower for a bit longer and keep checking the trichomes. If it appears as if the plant has died (stops drinking, leaves get crispy etc.) then harvest them otherwise the bud will degrade while in the tent and start to bleach etc.

Your plants look healthy and happy, there is a little bit of cupping in the last picture and possible slight clawing but nothing major.

When last did you top dress with worm castings?

For interest sake, what are the temps and RH in the tent on average?

14 hours ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

Yes I' do in fact...

That will happen with conduction vapes more so, as the longer the oven is at that set temperature, the long it has to conduct and deeper it penetrates. More so over the convection as it's the same temp, only going over the oven, when pulled on.

 This makes sense I guess, I was hoping the temp controllers would try and counter this to keep the temp steady and stable.

I have noticed the same on other dry herb vapes too though. Nothing new or specific to the IQ2.

Also noticed it on a convection dry herb vape.

I guess it is just heat soak of sorts, heating up other parts of the device as time goes on and just an overall slight increase in temp.

Really not the end of the world, was wondering if it was just me or not.  

I often let my plants go until there is some amber, I am not the biggest fan of cloudy and clear trichs and I find majority of smokers also prefer some amber as it seems as lot of people get anxiety when smoking and bud which has not had a chance to ripen leads to more paranoia and anxiety.

A sweet spot between the two I think is ideal for majority of people. Too much amber and it can become a bit too couch lock and too soon with not enough amber and it either does not feel as strong or the side effects can become a bit much and unpleasant. Not to mention if you smoke at night, the lack of amber can disrupt your REM sleep and you wake up feeling groggy and tired still.

Yeah, based on trichomes looks as if they could go a bit longer.

The haze is a sativa which generally can take longer to flower. When I grew Ghost Train Haze I think I flowered for 15 weeks and it could still have gone on for longer to get more amber and cloudy trichomes in there... I was just tired of keeping the plant in flower.

Also did you have any issues with pests? The first photo looks as if the plant was attacked by some pests as the leaves look as if they have some spots on them.

Seems I vape on the lower side compared to you guys.

I tried 185C over the weekend and then the next day vaped the same bowl at 193C and still got a good buzz off that bowl, although duration was not as long.

On 10/3/2021 at 5:39 AM, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

Are those photos deep in the nugs on a calyx or on the outside on sugar leaves?

Looks goood, but if it's on the sugar leaves you gotta remember those trichs ripen faster. 

If it looks like this inside the nug you are golden 

Spot on.

If its on the leaves, then it needs more time.

If that is on the bud itself, the calyx then you could cut.

Leaving it to ripe more comes down to personal preference.

Always take the flowering times with a teaspoon of salt. Personal preference comes into play as does phenotype and how quickly it ripens.

16 minutes ago, Tee_Aitch_See said:

Hey bro,

Stems are green and looks healthy. Just very stocky. I don't want to give up on her because I struggled through an ice cold winter with her and she pulled through so letting her go would be very sad. 

I didn't add any cal mag to my soil mix. I don't know how and why I forgot and I think that could be the issue. 

Do you think that it would have taken this long to show? She's been in the amended soil for atleast a month now. 

I am thinking possibly leaching over time.

Potting up and using just the plain soil I reckon will be an easy way to get her right again.

Soo, I saw @Prom posted a link to this site in another vape related thread: https://www.getmyster.com/blogs/blog/what-are-the-best-temperatures-for-vaping-weed

Got me thinking, what temp do you guys vape at and what vape(s) do you use?

I use a Davinci IQ2 and I vape between 190C and 195C

If I set the temp higher it starts to get a bit harsh for me. I also find towards the end of the vape session, even if it is set to a specific temperature and not one of the smart path modes, it feels as if the temp does increase a bit and the harshness increases a little towards the end of the session.

@The_StonedTrooper Do you notice the same with your IQ2 ?

19 hours ago, Martin7318 said:

A part of me hoped I'd come here and be told I'm being paranoid, I had no idea people were dipping in sulpher/sugar/GLASS... I thought the khat and heroine laced weed of Oppi Koppi would top the list forever. It's some dodgy weed, I'll certainly not be smoking it again . Thanks for all the horror stories!

 

Harm prevention is key, if in doubt rather get rid of it. Not worth risking your health for a bit of money.

14 hours ago, Martin7318 said:

Damn, that's cool. Just some regular LST? . This makes me feel like I did a proper shit job

There are many ways to LST a plant. As long as it ends with the results you want - which is often a flat canopy, then it is a success.  

Play around, try different things and see what works best for you or best in specific situations.

LST is great to shuffle the apical dominance around between the different branches and gives some of the side branches more of a chance to catch up and to level the canopy.

So I think your issue lies with the amendments you did - the coco and/or worm castings.

The coco in brick form needs to be buffered. So you would expand the coco then soak it in a solution of CalMag (higher strength as well - way more than a teaspoon. I recall you want an EC of at least 0.8 if not higher after adding the CalMag).

Let the coco soak overnight to allow for the cation exchange to take place. If the coco is not buffered then it can leach calcium and magnesium from your feed & soil and leave a deficiency and the high amount of salts which get pushed out in the cation exchange will sit in your medium.

At the same time, the worm castings could be throwing things out of whack in terms of nute levels or even PH and could be causing a lockout of some sort.

I feel the fact that the other plants in the same soil with less / no amendments is happy and healthy.

I am not 100% sure where exactly the issue lies though, is it with the coco or is it more with the worm castings?

If it is the coco, then you would want to add calmag to your feed and pushing a bit of extra feed through to the pots to help get rid of the salts from the coco cation could be good too... This could also help dilute the strength of the worm castings a little in the soil mixture though. 

What colour are the stems of the unhappy plant?

I do not think it has anything to do with flushing or not. I no longer flush and never experienced anything like this.

I susepect the weed was sprayed with something and that's what is causing this. Seems quite dodge and suspect.

Overseas it is common for weed to be laced with other substances as it makes the weed seem more potent and makes it easier to sell.

Never heard of the sugar water, but a possibility too.

If this is some of the weed from legal grows, then it was rejected for a reason and that reason could be why it is crackling and popping.

2 hours ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

is this bud standing by itself?

If you look carefully, it is actually levitating.

We got some voodoo cannabis magic going on here.  

21 hours ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

Did you get one now

Yeah, I got one a little while back and it is awesome!

I seem to vape on a lower power then it seems, I normally set my vape to 190C - 195C

Above 195C it can get a little harsh for my liking... I am not use to smoking though, be it joints or bongs. I'll take a bong over a joint though and regardless both are quite harsh and leave me coughing a lot.