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35 minutes ago, Adansonia digitata said:

Seedlings have recovered almost fully. Is it a bad idea to remove the leaves marked with the arrows in the below image. Little concerned with their contact with the substrate may cause issues.

No problem in removing them, I sometimes do when planting seedlings so I can get more of the stem buried for stability purposes. 

As long as the seedling looks healthy and you feel like it can handle the additional stress, go for it. I see removing foliage from a plant as removing pieces of armour. If the plant is battling, I usually don't remove foliage until healthy growth resumes. 

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Looking good so far, as others have mentioned typically most water after potting up to ensure all the medium is nicely saturated!

Also the inconsistent sizes when they were smaller is unlikely to be grower error, this is likely to be the seeds germinating at different days and being different pheno types and is quite common 😉 

 

Removing those bottom leave won't cause any issues, although leaving them and letting them sit in the medium and getting wet when watering won't cause issues or harm to the plant, but those leaves may get a little bit of burn - although not an issue either way. I personally like to keep my plants nice and neat and remove excess leaves and stems early on, why let it grow when it will just get removed later on anyways?

 

Seems you are running coco with some perlite, although what nutes are you using? It just states straights? Not sure what that is?

Plants are looking very happy though!

 

Shoes look like Ultraboost ST's?

I love my Ultraboosts, the uncaged are some of the most comfortable shoes I have ever owned and tried on. The Ultraboost 21 are also very nice!

Edited by PsyCLown
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4 hours ago, Ill_Evan said:

No problem in removing them, I sometimes do when planting seedlings so I can get more of the stem buried for stability purposes. 

As long as the seedling looks healthy and you feel like it can handle the additional stress, go for it. I see removing foliage from a plant as removing pieces of armour. If the plant is battling, I usually don't remove foliage until healthy growth resumes. 

Dankie. I'll prune them this evening. 

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1 hour ago, PsyCLown said:

Looking good so far, as others have mentioned typically most water after potting up to ensure all the medium is nicely saturated!

Also the inconsistent sizes when they were smaller is unlikely to be grower error, this is likely to be the seeds germinating at different days and being different pheno types and is quite common 😉 

 

Removing those bottom leave won't cause any issues, although leaving them and letting them sit in the medium and getting wet when watering won't cause issues or harm to the plant, but those leaves may get a little bit of burn - although not an issue either way. I personally like to keep my plants nice and neat and remove excess leaves and stems early on, why let it grow when it will just get removed later on anyways?

 

Seems you are running coco with some perlite, although what nutes are you using? It just states straights? Not sure what that is?

Plants are looking very happy though!

 

Shoes look like Ultraboost ST's?

I love my Ultraboosts, the uncaged are some of the most comfortable shoes I have ever owned and tried on. The Ultraboost 21 are also very nice!

Thank you for your reply. I am running in Solar Boosts at the moment, I couldn't get Ultras in my size at the time and I needed shoes like yesterday. The are the shit, super light and comfy as. 

 

Straights are fertilizers which only supply single, sometimes two elements as apposed to a complete NPK formulation. All people growing in coir are using a straight in the form of Calcium Nitrate to ensure there is no Nitrogen draw down. Calcium Nitrate is a straight supplying only N and Ca - Ca(NO3)2 is the formulation. Basically you blend your own nutrient formulations using water soluble N, P and K components(and micro nutrients). This is my first attempt at this kind of nutrition, I am fortunate to have guidance from a very cleaver lady friend who is a commercial flower farmer. It's a learning curve for both of us, so I don't want to go into depth regarding what, when and how much until we have solid data. Once we have it waxed, I will share the findings in a separate post dealing with that minefield subject.  Well spotted, you are the only person who noticed. 

 

Edited by Adansonia digitata
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Ahh ok, nice.

I have noticed a lot of the nutes use Calcium Nitrate - Hortimix and Haifa both do if I am not mistaken.

GHE I am not 100% sure, I know the Calcium is edta but it may contain some Calcium Nitrate too.

 

 

So basically blending your own mix of nutes in a way, I imagine it to be really cheap as you likely buy them in bulk and you are not paying for R&D and fancy packaging etc.

May be a bit of a challenge to dial it in and get it 100% though. Reminds me a bit of Hortimix - no proper feeding charts.

So far looking good though! 😄 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Long time... The severe cold we experienced in the highveld slowed things down quite considerably since the last update. They have recovered quite nicely, the plan is to let them veg for the rest of the week and flip to 12/12 on Sunday to get them to show gender. Once this has been determined, reveg and selection. If you see any promising plants please feel free to comment, selection is not a strong point. Only 4 will stay in the tent the balance is going outside to do their thing. I have an agreement with a mate to house the best of any males with the intention of harvesting pollen for possible future chucking. 

24 July highs and lows  

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This morning. 

  • µs - around 1500  
  • PH fluctuates with every new solution, current reading is 5.8

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3 minutes ago, The Grass Baas said:

Nice man. So far they're looking good. Really good.

What's the reason for flipping to check gender then revegging? I think you would save time just vegging them straight through. 

I also often flip to flower for just 4 or 5 days just to speed up the reveal. Going back to veg after only being in flower for 4 days slows absolutely nothing down. Plants in fact will respond quicker to Flowering once you do flip them again later

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1 minute ago, Totemic said:

I also often flip to flower for just 4 or 5 days just to speed up the reveal. Going back to veg after only being in flower for 4 days slows absolutely nothing down. Plants in fact will respond quicker to Flowering once you do flip them again later

Nice. Thanks man. Never heard about that in my life. Everyday is a school day

So is this basically similar to monstercropping but just very quick?

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No, the plants don't monster crop on this. The florigen hormone levels reach a point after day 10-14, where plants actually need to go through a reveg cycle to reduce the Flowering hormone levels. A 5 day flip and back to vegging, the plant is still in veg mode and will continue to veg as normal, however the primordial calyx or balls will develop enough for you to see clearly

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22 minutes ago, Totemic said:

I also often flip to flower for just 4 or 5 days just to speed up the reveal. Going back to veg after only being in flower for 4 days slows absolutely nothing down. Plants in fact will respond quicker to Flowering once you do flip them again later

I am following your lead on this method. You posted about it on the Tortino F1 -> F2 thread. Genius! 

 )

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Boys have been removed,ladies back on 18/6. 3 blokes and 6 ladies was the split. Selection of the final 4 ladies for the tent will be made this weekend. As previously mentioned, big leaves in there. 

IMG_20210826_174123.thumb.jpg.bc8e5c418088819b7211076bcfd4468d.jpg

Edited by Adansonia digitata
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  • 2 weeks later...

3 lookers and a runt. The only reason for continuing with the runt because 4 are needed to fill the space. I don't have much hope for her. All 4 plants have been topped and tied down. Timing is something that needs attention, today seems like a good day for calculating when to flip again for the end of life finale.   

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Two studs to select from for the Gauteng pollen chucker fest 2021. I'm feeling the one on the right, he stinks and is nice and compact. Feel free to have your say on these dudes. All 5 plants outside are making pollen sacks, they either hermed from the stress of moving out side, or they were incorrectly sexed from day one. Probability of user error is high.   

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 I've dumped the Ram oscillating fans completely. Upped the FAE to what I think is just short of 200m³/hr(filtering the inlet). The FAE rate ripples the leaves non stop. Starting to think the Oscillating fans are not necessary, and maybe that's just more hocus pocus to sell more stuff to home growers. Time will tell. I hope I'm right, because I'm loving the minimal, less clutter look inside the tent. The duct up top pushes air in and directly onto the QB, the bugger runs cool, cool, cool. Not sure if it's frowned upon, but have been using the favorable conditions in tent to dry a few pieces of biltong for our December adventure. Works like a bomb! Would totally recommend.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

Blomme. Week - No idea. 

No effort being put in here. These here weeds are just growing themselves. Oscillating fans are hocus pocus, you just need correct FAE. I have 2 brand new in the box, black RAM fans for sale R300 each. Hit me up if you want them, courier for your pocket. 

image.thumb.png.bab03d5d94d8cce3845ae2b950af3e38.png

 

Edited by Adansonia digitata
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hocus pocus for your small tent maybe 😛 but an intake or an extractor is not sufficient to move the air correctly - without fans, your extractor will default to the easiest way out of the tent and create static wind currents that may or may not work as well as your in your tent space - the smaller the tent, the less you have to worry about air movement if your extractor is beefy

you want the FAE as well as something to mix the air up in the tent 

consider keeping one of the fans for that purpose - i felt this bigtime in my dads tent when he only had an extractor and no fan to churn the air up... plants suffering from weird heat stress for no reason, some plants were not in the way of the FAE static airflow, and i could tell the difference in growth compared to those that were in the static breeze.

 

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51 minutes ago, CreX said:

hocus pocus for your small tent maybe 😛 but an intake or an extractor is not sufficient to move the air correctly - without fans, your extractor will default to the easiest way out of the tent and create static wind currents that may or may not work as well as your in your tent space - the smaller the tent, the less you have to worry about air movement if your extractor is beefy

you want the FAE as well as something to mix the air up in the tent 

consider keeping one of the fans for that purpose - i felt this bigtime in my dads tent when he only had an extractor and no fan to churn the air up... plants suffering from weird heat stress for no reason, some plants were not in the way of the FAE static airflow, and i could tell the difference in growth compared to those that were in the static breeze.

 

Fair enough, size of the structure will play a role. I understand the goal of 60-65 exchanges per hour is sufficient(may be wrong).

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On 9/22/2021 at 2:24 PM, Adansonia digitata said:

Fair enough, size of the structure will play a role. I understand the goal of 60-65 exchanges per hour is sufficient(may be wrong).

Like I said... For smaller tents air movement is not as important as air exchange... But with larger tents... Without fans, my leaves do not move... And that's a problem

I want new air on the surface of my leaves constantly and that's where the fans come into play 

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I've selected the back left lady for pollination, will snap some pics of her this evening. Some light defoliation, I think a little more is in order.

Impressed with the gene's, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the breeders work.  

image.thumb.png.06c5dfecbc21b12b440c0717e523ad05.png

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Neglect TEK. They have another 2 weeks before they HAVE to be chopped because we are traveling for 14 days. I've made the required changes to my FC so the whole space is a drying chamber. 18.5°c constant ambient temp, 55% RH and 50 air changes an hour. Running the 50m³ FC to just dry 4 plants is a complete waste of money, but I have no other option.         

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