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Totemic

Breeder
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Everything posted by Totemic

  1. Been experiencing exactly the same with my last batch of FF premium. Magnesium deficiency/overfed look. I thought i overfed, but after taking some clones and sticking them in more of the same batch... Been 6 weeks, i havent fed once and they are looking borderline overfed. I think this was just a hot batch of soil. My grows have been consistent for the last 5 years. In fact i have been reusing my old soil, just reamending with elemental blend. Nothing has changed, except for the new soil i bought.
  2. Those look like springtails which are considered beneficial insects, although you seem to have a quite a herd there
  3. Sad to hear news like this. I feel I am part of this forum, being involved since it's conception. Drop me a PM bro. Lets talk.
  4. Been doing some testing on the feminized seeds I made. Really happy with the vigor considering the lower temperatures. 7 June 6 July
  5. There is no way to predict how the genetics will combine. It comes down to what dominant and recessive alleles each individual plant is composed of. This is true whether a male is involved or 2 females
  6. Yeah the same as @SkunkPharmmentioned . Dont think any of those 2020/2021 releases will be released again though. My focus has been on autos for quite sometime now, and I may have seeds available in the near future.
  7. ^^' only has its genetic potential' That should be bold text
  8. The plant uptakes nutrients and depletes the soil of its chemistry as it grows, so topdressing or any form of feeding is addressing that. Adding more to the soil.
  9. Gypsum is part of my base soil, but can be topdressed as well at any point. Most calcium sources are slow realease. The thing about organic growing is that it shouldnt be a soil up approach. Ie. About what the plant needs. Rather a soil down approach. Ie. What does the soil need and what the microbes need for it to be a quality effective soil. The first problem is a misunderstanding the roles of various nutrients. Ca, Mg, and S are not micro nutrients but secondary macro nutrients. Together they provide a constant ionic background in the soil for various chemical interactions that do occur. They specifically offset or buffer if you will H+ ions, and this is what stabilizes the soil pH. Everything else pivots on this. The microbes, the plants ability to interact with the soil, and the balance of the chemical reactions. This could quickly become an essay but the point im trying to make is that nutrients dont just play a role in the plant as a building block, they have even greater roles in the soil itself. I would suggest anyone that is interested in organic growing methods to focus on the actual soil science. Get that right and any plant will thrive without you having to attempt trying to micro manage or decipher what it needs.
  10. Can't believe Calcium sulphate aka gypsum didn't even make it in here... Calcium sulphate is a more beneficial calcium source being paired with a sulphate vs the carbonate as in eggshells It is practically pH neutral(slightly over 7), where the calcium carbonate can potentially push the pH up to 10. Plus its super abundant and really cheap. Last price I got was R400/ton or 40c a kg... Gypsum has been my go to calcium source in my soils.
  11. I stick to my normal feeding schedule with biobizz, switching to flowering nutes as usual. Once you have pollinated, there is a slight uptick in Nitrogen need as the seeds are setting up, but the biobizz schedule maintains a low 'grow' dosage along with the bloom anyway.
  12. Day 42, First pollen 20 days after starting to spray STS. Got some nice purples expressing on the pollen donor. It has taken a few tries to get it right to reverse an auto. A schedule of spraying every 3rd day, and a total of 5 sprays from day 21 (after female sex has shown). Chosen just one of the other females to pollinate.
  13. Day 28 With the light running 24h, the DLI for the space is also higher and allowing another row to fit under the light.
  14. Day 21. 2 males have been removed. 4 females left of the original lot, with the biggest two to the right already had their first STS Spray for pollen collection.
  15. Photo fems. Are far into the future. Im focusing on a single auto line now and will be for another year or more. Until loadshedding is resolved it simply isnt worth trying to run with photoperiods.
  16. Depending on what you will be looking for... I already have regular autos, and will probably only have fem autos ready to add by this coming Spring.
  17. Day 14 Settling in well. Dropped a few more seeds in the pots that stalled, and will be continuing to drop seeds into pots where males are identified and removed. Effectively turning this tent into a perpetual space.
  18. Yeah the drier you manage to let them get allows the taproot to really dive deep in search of moisture. The bigger the root gets the bigger the top can get. When i plant my seeds after a 24h soak, its into 15l pots, which are watered thoroughly to the point of runoff. Then i start feeling the weight of the pots day after day. Only water when it has lost most of the water weight.
  19. In those 3 weeks, how many times did you water? I have 2 week old autos in 15l that haven't been watered since the initial watering when i planted the seeds...
  20. Best thing to do is invite a couple of friends over. Share your meds, smoke some weed, and keep a detailed log book... You know something like - Don't eat that mushroom... John died after 40 minutes...
  21. Been almost a year, and a couple small projects down the line... Thanks to everyone who has shown support and encouraged me to keep on doing what I do. I will be bringing my site back online in the next few months, as I work on feminized and regular releases of all my existing genetics, aswell as an auto flowering line or 2. I have also re worked my original logo, combined both the new and old into one, so all my packaging will change with any new releases.
  22. #3 seeds soaking. Some F2s for outdoor some for indoor...
  23. Its a risk imo. Even though they are still in veg, changing nutes mid grow is generally a disaster. You could give the medium a real good flush and just give plain water until the plants start looking hungry, then switch to biobizz range.
  24. Also, what are you adjusting your pH to? Salts in coco usually needs adjust to 5.8, organics is 6.2. If you switch to organic nutes the need to pH will also fall away. FF premium buffers its own pH at 6.2-6.5
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