ORGANinc.

2 minutes ago, DesignatedDave said:

Hi, thanks 

why would I run different lights for co2 and what different lights would I run?
These are 700w Samsung LM301H LED lights, that's 1400w over the 2.4m space... Or am I missing something here?

 

Thats awesome to hear, thanks man 

I think he means lights which generate heat and then the co2 would be effective, temps need to be controlled from 30 - 34 degree when ppm is that high I think, who know anyway

Fuck yeahhhh! That’s the first thing I said when I saw this! Very nicely done bro! 

42 minutes ago, Prom said:

If you got your clone from @SkunkPharm.. we talk the same weed

Na but was the same breeder got from seeds 

Sade mate!  

That ginger tea was lekke, sounds just like the one I had

4 minutes ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

hahah yeah too true man sometimes can really throw you off a product

here's the Humic Acid - recommended dose is 3-5ml/L during seedling - veg

https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/humic-acid 

 

here's the Fulvic Acid - recommended dose 2ml/L for small plants, 5ml/L for large plants and 10ml/L for trees. 

https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/fulvic-acid

because of recommendations I feel Fulvic 3ml/L, what you think? 

Yes, I think that is a fair amount, I usually do that amount per 5L. If its a fulvic extract similar to that I made myself. I would think the strength would not even nearly be the same. Mine being weaker to some extent. Honestly, I just dissolved whole L tub of Fulvic powder in 2L distilled water. And its effective stuff at that dose.

The liquids are tricky for this reason. But ya, if you worried about the Humic having a decent amount of potassium in it, then rightly so, all humic acids, well the cheap china stuff we get is Leonardite stone (so they say) extracted via chemical potassium extraction. So there is some potassium in it unfortunately. Its okay to have a lot in veg and end of flower, but still too much isn't great. In your case I think the advantage would outweigh the issue it could cause if mis-used. 

I think equal parts of each, around 3-5ml each per 5l will do good.

Week 3 and week 1, the chem ds are 2 weeks behind.

16 hours ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

I see I see  thanks for breaking it down for me!

what dose and of which would you suggest I give? I'll apply and hopefully I will get to understanding the product better through use also hahah I got it free and only used it maybe once or twice, but always felt too uncertain to say I know what I am doing with it.

I hear you bro, once you burn your fingers, it’s never the same  

Let us see which one you got? I would just do recommended dose and seriously not be afraid of smashing it twice a week for the begining

1 hour ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

hahahah shit oh well whoever said it, it makes sense

just note, the yellowing on new growth is not N deficiency. those are the beginning stages of excessive P and K symptoms.

or what is it that indicated N deficiency? I could be missing something, but I feel the they gona ask for N soon, because I am not giving any since I am trying to lower overall EC from the excess of other stuff. mainly also the reason for not feeding more right now. 

I wouldn't be able to get it over my heart to feed them anything now knowing how much I fed them before they started looking like this. almost 100% sure there is no deficiency right now and also how I know it's excess. The first deficiency that will show will be N, cause there's a normal amount of it right now, but because I cannot feed just N I can't feed anything at all and risk even more P and K stress. so my only alternative is clean water till the excess symptoms are a little less then slowly half dose of Fish which is N focussed. and then taking it from there.

I got both humic and fulvic acid laying around, but I feel there's not enough information out there for me to comfortably use it. Unless also just with the less is more approach. I have an understanding of the stuff but also only the limited amount information that's out there since these 2 things have not been fully studied yet. Just don't wana "add" more stuff when I am thinking about less is more and knowing very well I already over did it I just feel a step back right now is a step in the right direction. 

Ya I understand your reasoning. If you want to your total EC to go down, it would not be the best idea to feed. 
 

I refer to the plants having an appearance of lockout, and that’s due to the excess as you say, so it goes all the way up the chain, but that is hindering the uptake of the final Elements like nitrogen, resulting in the lighter colour. Arden Anderson explained the phenomenon as a final Carbon deficiency and not any particular element deficiency, as it works back up the chain. So excess induced deficiencies are annoying because they cause other deficiencies. 
 

that’s why I recommend introducing some humic and fulvic, they do well in situations where there are imbalances, interms of nutrient density, the npk if humic and fulvics are seriously minuscule. To Move ppm up 10 or 20 points with humic sand fulvic would be a physical amount I would never apply, so the amounts, the very tip of a scalpels worth. Research is vast, but the conclusions are noteworthy. 
 

very low doses frequently, and frequently is weekly. Will give best results 

However, I only consider humic and fulvic useful in these situations. Other times, the plants must encourage humic substances to form by themselves. 
 

7 minutes ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

duuude 100%  

organics is more about reading the plant than anything since there's already nutrients and stuff happening in the soil you're set with a given starting point, where as with hydro you start with basically nothing and follow a schedule from there. 

with organics you gotta know how to speak plant.

I am using the Biobizz range and have been alternating between the Grow and Fish during veg. I see that the Grow has more P and K in it so I am thinking it was too much of that also the fact that they're in recycled soil and I had flowering plants in the soil last where I fed them with BioBloom, so my mind is telling me there's also some left over P and K. I also picked up on your pro tip you dropped recently on using more Fish during veg and when flower comes switching to the Grow together with Bloom. makes a bunch of sence to me since you also need the sugar from the molasses in the Grow more during flower than during veg. 

Either way the clean water for now, but I have a feeling they should be asking for some N real soon and I don't wana wait till that happens. So if they're not looking happy by the end of this week I'll introduce half dose of the Fish.

 

Yeah, the liquid feeds are quite strong, so you are probably right that you have too much p and k growing in the same soil. 

I don't know if I said that, probably not me bud. I don't know much about biobizz range, I just know the ingredients and seen that chart a couple of times. Maybe have a look into some sort of Humic/fulvic product to couple with the fish. If you have something lying around. Think it will help with the imbalance if any. 

But yes, they are looking hungry for N, 

38 minutes ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

looks like I am still too heavy handed with the nutes, been on clean water for over 2 weeks now all still not growing 100% gotta stop with my over feeding issue! Clear signs of excessive P and K.

I really need to let the "less is more" thing still sink in! 

Its difficult, when you find the less is more spot, you also find the area where there's not enough. hard to keep the levels where you want them especially when you eye balling it with organic inputs. 

What did you feed? 

29 minutes ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

I believe, only sharp when dry, and when in soil, it's not active enough to kill off microbes or small bugs.

It only works on mites when they hit with it dry.

As mentioned, it kind of dissolves into the soil, and that is the silica you will get in slow release 

Thanks for the clarification, I have heard it has much less of a pest ipm type of affect after consecutive waterings and good to note that. 
 

aswell as the available silica to gain 
 

I will be combining my next top dress with some soil, and more amendment with diatoms and I’ll add the total topdress, I did it once before and the results were noticeable. 
 

thanks for your input 

8 hours ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

Diatomaceous earth is pretty much pure silica, and has other added benefits 

Liquid, as mentioned by Evan, can fall out of nutrients and doesnt hold lekker in a medium 

Yes I do use diatomaceous but I’m not looking at ultimately feeding it to the soil, as an amendment it serve a good purpose, but some say it can also be hard on the creepy crawley as it cuts them up very often. However it’s not the end of the world, just wouldn’t add more than I do already 

17 minutes ago, SkunkPharm said:

Barley has a really high silica content. That is another reason I add it to the soil and make teas with it.

How much do you add? I put malt barley as part of my top dress, but I’m thinking about doing much more. 

17 minutes ago, Chris Jay said:

Liquid Silica, no name brand, unopened and not used yet. 

Cheers man, ya I'm looking for some type of organic mineral amendment that I can add to the soil without altering the functionality of the soil and being harmful to the microbes. 

I have seen a product on Hydroponic but its really acidic, like 1ph, so im not too sure. Its called Eckosil. 

33 minutes ago, Chris Jay said:

Another tip, add silica to your auto's, it fattens them up. Well add silica to your soil, it helps many ways. 

What type of silica are you adding to your soil?

so the Chem D are somewhat ready to flower 

On 2 weeks with the dark Phoenix, and the Chem D are going to sleep for 12 hours from 6am today. 
 

they were suppose to go in on Sunday but I did a rough Defol so I decided to wait another 3 days. I think they are a lot happier now 

That’s about it for now, time for the exciting bit

Yes I agree with you that it will be beneficial in creating diversity and competition, but those sometimes and people have observed many instances of microbial collapse and that’s what I’m basically talking about, that stagnant  time nothing happens in terms of plant growth because either the system is dead, or over loaded or both. 
 

also those times are usually when pathogens get the chance to take hold, you can have a massive diversity, many organism serving many purposes, but not all like the ones feeding your plants, some want to kill your plant

but those are perfect dosages you got planned, and I really don’t think anything bad can happen that way.

8 hours ago, Bos said:

Organic amendments or inputs are the way to go imo. SST's and FPJ's are awesome diy/grower additions for any plants, but balance and a light hand is key.

My comfrey based FPJ's usually tend to be on the acidic side and will cause problems if applied undiluted. I prefer not to adjust the ph and just dilute it.

My first SST's(corn,red adzuki beans) did cause problems. Initially the plants responded well, but the eff up came later. (Had to cull and burn)

I suspect that the amount of available starches caused an imbalance in the soil microbiology and instead of doing good, stimulated a pathogenic Fusarium fungus outbreak due to it being prevalent in our area.

The rootzone microbiology is complex, consisting of numerous organisms, some are beneficial to plants, others not so much. They keep themselves in equilibrium, but an excessive "outside" input can tip the scales in the wrong direction.

Still using SST's, but much more diluted than before. Less is more.

Thanks for this @Bos Sounds very much like my suspicions. Obviously too much of anything is bad. I had similar outcome with red adzuki, mung and barley, but like you say, just a bit too much. 

I wanted to find out, did you inspect the roots and find an unhappy scenario there that looked to be Fusarium? 

At the end of the day, the most important carbohydrate going into the soil should be the root exudates. They are the most effective at releasing whatever the plant needs, via the microbiology, not only that, but it is also important for keeping microbiological colonies in check.  

and you only get that when plants are photosynthesizing at their peak.

1 hour ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

Thanks man, I definitly needed to hear that hahah this stuff is so cheap and easy I can really see myself getting carried away with it  I have heard quite a bunch of people say I can over do it with the SST and just to be carefull with any of the teas and ferments.

I made this batch to inoculate the cooking soil, but I know it's gona be way too much, so I'll be giving some to the whole garden. this will be the second time I ever made SST, with the first time being 2 weeks ago. I'll let a couple months go by before making it again and hope to gain more knowledge on it in this time. I put the pulp in my worm tower, so they can turn it into casting before I am gona use it. after this I'll be collecting IMO and leaf mold to make some FPJ from the new growth on the local flora. it's spring so loads of auxin hormones around. wana make some FFJ for my ladies going into flower. 

going down the korean natural farming rabbit hole, but some of those things can be quite complicated and if not done right can cause more harm than good, but getting to know it and understanding it better will bring a more sustainable way of gardening. so I feel it's quite a good rabbit hole to go down. 

I heard I guy say enzymes are like millions of different kinds of keys to millions of different kinds of locks and the locks are the trace minerals and micronutrients. it's always easy to guess the macro nutrients and say "I need N or P or K" but how do you know when and what of any of the other elements it is, or could be? So when adding enzymes, it's pointless to add a whole bunch of one specific kind of enzyme that only does one thing, you need to add the whole group of enzymes, the more diverse the better. which makes the most sense to me. Instead of adding a lot of one thing, rather add smaller amounts of a wider variety of things. This is what I'll be going for. 

I’m very much enjoying this full on approach. Love it bro. Look forward to seeing these plants rocket.

the enzyme can be seen like that, you could also see them as organisms or bodies that carry out the life functions or processes, so they are another piece of the puzzles. they start the movement of simple compounds into more complex ones like amino and then into proteins, very important stuff. However most of this sst are energy free types of nutrient replacements so they are full amino and protein compound already, getting that dosage right is honestly the key. But I’m still yet to get that right lol
 

The amount that comes from the initial process of seed starting is immense as you can imagine. So basically what you have are different types of more complete nitrogen compounds in action. This is the inception of life. Very many complex process taking place, so many locks become open etc. and micro nutrients just make those processes that much more efficient if they are there. 
 

Ya KNF is cool but like you said, it can go south easily. But you’ll learn how to use your nose. And if it’s even slightly offish. Chuck it. 
 

Just for me begs the question of anaerobic decomposition, I don’t know if it’s a long term solution, because of the type of microbial colonies that develope , but still don’t know enough to comment properly.  

Either way, all this hard work is going to pay off nicely. @Naughty.Psychonaut Just be careful with all that SST. Its usually an over supply of many nutrients and enzymes in a system. 

I made a number of SST and every fresh application burnt the tips and they were small applications. Then I made a variety of Seed spouts and then I dried them to use as a top dress slow release source of enzyme, soil food nutrients. however, I think the variety was not the most effective. I started noticing some Gnats and other undesirable. I may have used too much. Especially when I worked it into the soil. Ended up discarding much of it in the compost pile. 

One of my first grow with totes bubble berry glue. I exclusively used malted barley teas. and I would put like a tsp of alfa alfa and kelp meal. Before the tea days when completely haywire. And honestly, those plants were thanking me in a big way come to think about it, all the spent malted barley also went into the top layer of the soil. That didn't turn out terribly. However, if there is too much of anything in a system, the balance of the good and bad bacteria/fungi might go out of wack. 

I think one of the biggest realizations in organic growing for me ever was that growing in 20l /40l or even 100l pots, planters or beds, is that all of the listed have the highest chance of running out of over all nutrients depending on the size of the plant. So in the right ratio, there's a massive need to put back what has been taken out. To think your soil in a 20l or 40l pot still has some gas and the plant is almost the same size of the pot about to get bigger, is just plain ignorant, which I was. 

These are all finite metrics, why wouldn't it apply to the nutrients available. 

I don't think anybody ever got Tk that looked like that, Smoke report when you ready please 

Wow this is something, this is the one I got, very happy with it. https://www.meijiu-za.com/products/1988-电位器款-1

They are decently competitive. 
cheers for sharing

1 week in flower for the Dark Phoenix, Chem d still vegging. Will be joining the flowering tent on Sunday. 
 

4 minutes ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

Hey bud, hope you are well 

It was just the Pineapple Chunk that got the flush, one in the front left spot you can see she's quite stressed. I could possibly remove her mulch, but now that she is in a more acceptable EC range she'll be sucking the soil dry a bit quicker. hopefully. will see what she does by tonight then make a move. 

I am just now recently beginning to get a better understanding of how little I really know about organics well, I mean... I've always known, but like they say, ignorance is bliss! Just chatting to the right people and seeing the right kinda stuff will really do something crazy for ones perspective. I feel like I owe my plants and myself a lot of work and a lot more understanding and with it all comes better practices. 

You can read a book till you can recite the words from memory, but do the thing then you see it's a whole different ball game. Plus, I just wana get better at growing weed  

thanks for the kind words I see you still pumping the plants over there doing the good things, keep well brother!

 

Awweee my brother, appreciate the kind words. Yeah, I've been making a lot of mistakes still and everyday, I go, ahhh for F sake. This was wrong and that was wrong.

But anyway, we just growing some cannabis to relax the thoughts and tend to the adult use needs, doesn't need to be rocket science but it certainly can.

Cool bro beans, keep at it. And I shall too, need to continue on the studies and things may go a little smoother, or better.

So the tent frames are in your bigger space, ahhh that’s exactly what you need man, clever thinking. 
 

you need to create a space within a space, that is a nice scrog frame too