Naughty.Psychonaut

do you know how stable the genetic is? If it's f2 they may have a bit of a difference in end weight when looking at it like that, otherwise you can only look at overall health and general reaction to the unknown media. if they're only f1 or 2 I would try to look at each plant individually, but if they're f3 or 4 they have higher chances of growing more similar.

are they different phenos or same cut? if they are clones, I vote the small one in your known soil and the bigger one in the test soil? if they're different phenos I don't think it matters too much, because structure and expressions will differ even if everything is on point.

yeah, this is true! if you know to keep adding microbes and not rely only on salts as feed in organic situations and keep adding organic compounds to keep the microbes alive and create that prolific symbiosis, you'll be fine. the salts can basically just act as "addatives" when growing in a pot and in the earth is also a big difference. I worked on many different farms, 2 biodynamic farms, even they use salt nutes, because it's still natural when you use it in amounts the soil can still break down. all the synthetic nutes we have on the shelves all come from the earth anyway, they're just concentrated and combined in unnatural combinations. when growing in a pot, the amount that can cause harm is significantly less, because the microbiome inside a pot is not nearly that of which is in the earth and is harmed or disrupted much easier, but for people with a background in agriculture and mycology, with a quite comprehensive understanding of how microbes operate, it's easy to draw a picture. why I moved away from salts completely is because I have a bigger problem with how they source these compounds, the production of the compounds and the complete dismay of organic growing, because of these products. we've all seen the indoor FMCG farms, growing masses of vegetables that look like they where 3D printed, to feed the already over populated planet, essentially trying to solve a problem by creating a bigger problem. now I just stick to stricktly organic and the "less is more" approach

My very first indoor grow was FF green bag with hydroponics A,B,MKP nutrients. I called it beginners luck, because it turned out great, but literally everyone and their aunties soiled themselves when they heard I was mixing organics with synthetics. like that was the worst thing a grower could ever do. Everyone had their reasons, random people would come out the boendoes standing behind the seasoned growers, calling me out for defending what I was doing. I stated it was my first real indoor grow, so people jumped to the conclusion that I knew nothing about anything plant related quite a few people didn't like the fact that I didn't wana listen to their seasoned advice, but yeah this is how we learn who to take advice from These days companies like GreenHouse Feeding and quite a few others actually make nutrient lines that combine the two styles of growing and it seems to be much more accepted these days. As time goes on we will se more and more of this. Lekker fingers crossed for no losses and better results than anticipated!! with a ph and ppm pen, you really can't go wrong. run off tests and slurry tests have saved my crop quite a couple times.

that's spot on for argument sake, you'll have better results vegging a plant under a flower light than you would when flowering a plant under a veg light.

excited to see how this turns out! how long you cooking the medium before using? I am very careful with dolomite these days, luckily I use it for the mushrooms aswell so always have some on hand. Having it on hand turned out to be both a blessing and a curse lol long long time ago I saw early signs of CaMg deficiency, so I thought the dolomite will work perfect as it's organic and a source of CaMg. I topdressed each plant with 40g of dolomite, the plants reacted rather quickly for an organic situation, took about 3 to 5 days for all plants to look right, but then just as quick as my problem was solved the pendulum kept swinging and another 3 days later I had severe toxicity/lockout. this was before I had a ph or ppm pen, so I never tested if it was a ph swing causing lockout, which is very possible with dolomite, or a ppm problem. I see you got 4 different Ca sources in there. Calcitic Lime, Gypsum, Bonemeal and Dolomite, you used quite little of each so hopefully you don't run into the same problem I did. also a whole different scenario when you mix it into the medium and you know what you doing. I clearly did not

woah that's a good deal actually... 2.8k for 240w samsung qb, not bad at all is this thing second hand? from 5.5k to 2.8k is quite a drastic price drop so I would just check with the seller what's the reason for selling and the history of the light. how long has it been running, all that stuff. would you still be able to choose a spectrum or you just have to take the one the person is selling? they give 3 options - 4000Kelvin - more of a veg light 3500Kelvin - could do both, but flowers will do better under even lower spectrum 3000Kelvin - more of a flower light

niiiiice that's a good design!! you could possibly still use the frame for the new light. cobs used to be the hot shit, but the tech is outdated now. it came and went like a wave. there are some good ones, but the blurple LEDs may aswell be discontinued as grow lights and I wouldn't complain don't get me wrong, they still have their place and I know from experience what they can do, but I guess there's no such thing as unnecessary school fees as long as you learning something I still owe my parents the fees they paid while I was skipping class like an idiot it would just be sooooooooooo much easier if there wasn't such a big variety of things dictating that there will br a "best of them" and the "worst of them". idealy we would all like to live in a world where everything it a quality product doesn't matter where you bought it or for how much. but that's not the case that's a crazy wiring situation!!! luckily it was earthed hey, but was the wire exposed where it made contact with the frame? not sure what LED strips you used, but what's cool about these new school smart LEDs with all kinds of different functions is that they have wire inserts instead of the old school exposed soldering or open wire connections. reducing the chances of running into that same problem they look like this.... you expose 5mm of wire, slide it into the little insert till the insulation touches the housing then you know you safe if you make use of wago connectorts you also won't have any exposed connections so no wires can touch anything.

while we're waiting for him, I see you say you can stretch it another 2k? giving you 4k total. heres my order from digikey, it's in your budget! those components all under 4k. then you just need the odds and ends, might be pushing the budget a little here, but can also work out good deals if you working local, can also get these things over time. Aluminium T-strips = R400 Wires = R200 Wire Connectors (wago) = R80 Plug = R30 weatherproof double sided tape = R80 small cable ties to make the wiring neat = R30

well @greenkush said you should be fine with those lights you got there so hopefully if he doesn't drop the link, atleast he'll teach you how to use your light correctly?

hopefully @greenkush gona sort you out!

cool cool, thanks bro I was just saying that because I was told recently I should check how I speak to people yeah you can get good deals for sure, but 3k is not exactly cheap. I said to stay away from cheap china stuff not every single thing from china why not link OP with the details so he can get himself something nice like you? he's already really close to 3k so it's possible

didn't mean to upset you or step on your toes about your alibaba light brother but technically, what I said was "if I may advise, stay as far as you possibly can from any cheap china stuff" with emphesis on the CHEAP. if it's cheap it can be made wherever in the world it would probably still not be advisable.

lol I ordered my stuff off Digikey and they in China too maybe I should've rather said to stay away from local china shops? or just the lights the FOYU brand produces?

if you go with the light skunkpharm recommended you still left with some cash to put into savings towards that DIY project that's gona drastically change the game for you. when it comes to growing weed indoors, your light quality is going to be one of, if not the biggest factor contributing to your success.

the suggestion made by skunkpharm is probably gona be the best thing for your situation right now. best bang for buck. it's 85w of proper grow light, I am willing to bet that light will outperform all your FOYU lights combined. if I may advise, stay as far as you possibly can from any cheap china stuff, especially when it comes to growing weed and you're focussed on quality. I would rather suggest using the sun as a light source than spending any of your hard earned money on china crap. you just shooting yourself in the foot forking out unnecessary school fees. once you ready to spend around 4 to 7k on a light I may be able to help you a little better, with a budget of around 6k you can easily import all components and build a light worth 10 to 15k. it's really easy as pie, like monkey puzzle for school kids, you follow the diagram, connect red to red, black to black, there you go. BOOM, BIG LIGHT just look at her go!!! that light cost me 4k to build myself.

Is it the GG#4 ? if it was was up to me I'd go with the GG, because of the lineage even if you don't get the best pheno it's bound to have a nice terpene profile and on the higher side on the THC count, but like I said that's just me, different strokes for different folks.

are these two clones of the same plant? one under the blurple is looking a bit fatter yeah, can only compare of these are two clones of the exact same plant. I see a bit of a Ca/Mg deficiency coming on, being a bit further along on the one on the right. you know about this? I have a blurple, they're not nice grow lights man. take it from someone who already paid the school fees, already stuck their hand in the fire and felt the pain. Here's a few photos of my old blurp grow, you see even if you know what you doing pumping 240w full blast blurple your weed still gona come out sub-par this is what a proper blurple grow looks like, but it was still shit. this light was and is still power, I still use it to veg, but never again will I flower under this thing. now taking it a step back, flood lights.... ah man..... those really aren't even ideal for vegging, cause they're not grow lights. you should never be thinking about trying to grow with flood lights, only use them as supplemental lights. there's actual science behind it. you can veg under them, for sure, but you can do a test for yourself, take a 50w horticultural light and a 50w flood light and grow the same cutting under both of them. you'll be stunned. it's all about the type of diodes.

@Ponica To answer your question on how accurate those apps are - they're not accurate at all. don't rely on the information you get from them. keep the information then get a proper light meter so you can see how drastically off they are. also the weaker the light the more inaccurate the app will be. IMHO the amount of light you working with there really shouldn't even need testing for. you just need more of it and better quality. Are you saying that you doubt the 120w qb is gona put out more light than 2 x 50w qbs?? because it will. you shouldn't doubt that. unless there is something wrong with the 120w qb. A few questions I have for you, if I may... You keep talking bout flood lights, do you know that the actual diode that puts out the light from a LED is going to make all the difference? So my first question - what diodes are on those flood lights? and what diodes are on the qb? Second question - you say flood lights are small qbs, does that not mean qb's are big flood lights? how would this equate to flood lights being better than qb's when you're saying they're smaller? so they're smaller physically and in wattage, yet you say they're more powerfull and work better? Third question - flood lights are not made for growing plants, there's a butt load of science that goes into horticultural lighting and it's ever improving science. have you studied the science? https://ledgardener.com/

@Riettevdm I was going to suggest getting a photoperiod instead of the autos, as they are much harder to grow than photoperiod plants. if you accidentily stress an auto a little they stress A LOT and they don't forgive any mistakes. photoperiods give you time to make mistakes and still redeem yourself and once they're big enough you can make cuttings to try grow the same plant again. something autos also don't allow. it's just one seed and done. if it doesn't come out right you loose quite a bit. I just had a quick looksee at the MSSA website, they have a "USA seeds" section, I would look around there for something. in the last 10 years or so USA genetics have knocked Dutch genetics out the park. unless it's something old school you where going for!

there you go! what are you going for this time round?

some significant stretch from the Deluxe Sugarcane Blueberry Hasplant starting to show pistils Frosted Apricot also showing pistils only waiting on the DS to show her pistils then we're in full swing!

got a update here repotted into their final pots Blueberry Hashplant - Bodhi Seeds French Macaron - THSeeds Chernobyl - TGA Genetics Super Cheese - Positronics Frosted Apricot - In House Genetics (smallest plant gets biggest pot)

chillies where great, but back to the cannabis updates for now this plant has now been in flower for 10 weeks, which is a week longer than the recommended time, but she's just been getting fatter and fatter, so I am thinking of leaving her for another 2 weeks or so to see what happens, will keep an eye on her trichomes. she's foxtailing a bit, but the buds also keep swelling. the placement of my pots seems to be a little on the shit side, but I am not moving them now the bigger plant seems like it's doing better, but I may have cleaned her up a bit too much at some point and she went straight into flower when I brought her outside so she never really vegged any new leaves or branches. she also didn't get to reach all her branches above the screen, next outdoor grow I will veg more, defoliate less, and maybe lower the screen like 10cm. getting her frost on nice and early

was the seeds from a trusted breeder? and was it in original packaging? there's so much back and forth surrounding seedbanks replacing seeds, I get that it can cause a bit of a stir when the growers could be to blame in some cases, like low germination numbers, high hermie numbers, all that jazz... but in this case there was never any female flowers forming, so it's just false advertisement or a packaging flaw. that's something completely out of your hands and it's not what you paid for. If Marijuana Seeds South Africa knows what's good for them they'll send you a replacement otherwise that's just bad business and you have the option to not support them in future. ✌