SkunkPharm

I have seen a couple of products late. There is quite a high phosporous based product I saw recently. I have never used it but could be used. It is a group 2 fertilizer which is normally organic. Good time for it would be just after you switch to flower. A the moment I am top dressing with a bit of pot ash. I am in week 4 of flower. This is the first time I am feeding nutrients as such. If you have active microbial activity you could even do soft rock phosphate 2 weeks before you switch to flower. You could also do dried banana teas. Worms are always a good idea in your totes but you will need a good mulch layer. With maybe some cover crops such as red clover and dill and so on. Then you can feed with kelp and malted barly teas. Top dres with basalt rock dust, soft rock Phosphate and bone meal. Ok fuck I am to stoned dor this.

Look all I want them to say is this is a stabilized strain the dominant phenotypes are floral flavors with hints of diesel and the super.stinky cheese. But now they call something cheese and it smells like Green Crack. I can see why people are moving away from names and are rather classifying things to how the make you feel. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk

Cape Town Northen suburbs. They are in pots already so would not be able to post. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk

Yes I still have a couple. That doesn't have homes. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk

Is it true that in stable lines you can only see if a plants is female or male when switched to 12 12?

Probably about 10m through 2 concrete walls. A wifi range extender should solve your problem if you are having problems.

Howzit guys and girls. Everything these days seems to be about phenotypes. Do you think it is possible for a breeder to state which phenotypes to expect when they are selling you seeds? Or will it be to diverse to state this on a pack? Also do you think it is possible for then to list what phenotype is the desired one and how to identify it early on or is this to much to ask? Do you have thoughts on this? Leave your comment here.

Week 4 Dont water your plants with cold water. They go purple.

SO today these are at about 10 weeks. Autos definately takes longer than the time they indicate in theit sites. I think the one has about 2 weeks left and the others i think will go at least another month.

Speculating but looks like nutrient burn and to much nitrogen

I dont really train my plants. I just top the once or twice and let them grow.

I have ordered from them. The seeds came in a bank bag with the strain written on the bag. Only got around to planting those seeds now. One did not make it out of the soil the other is completely different from other plants I have grown gorilla zkittles from Barney's Farm apparently. I quite like the look of it.

Week 3. Tent. Pics are of the AMG and Orange Kush Cake

I dont really like buying more than 3 seeds of one strain. I will probably never grow out 5 plants of one strain with my pace constraints. Maybe one day when I am on the Farm.

Have you ordered from them? They have been around for a long time. I have not hered any reviews. Price was also not the best.

I aggree. It does become hydrophobic. When the plant starts using more water like in the 1st 5 or 6 weeks of flower I water daily. But it all comes down to watching what your plants are doing and the size of your pots.

Clones are a bit different to starting seeds as you are basically growing a branch of a plant. The growth is not symmetrical. My suggestion is to just top the plant. See which 2 branches grows the strongest and top those 2 branches again. Clean up all the rest of the branches and make more clones. Give some to friends.

The first one I used was the Klasmann-Deilmann Lithuanian Peat Moss. And now recently I bought the Kekkilä Peat. Please dont pay more than R400 for a bale. If you dont want to use that much and want to use it I have some left over, if you are in cape towns Northen Suburbs. When you use peat you also have to buffer it with some lime and/or gypsum as the pH is low.

I also do the smartpot thing. But have been using peat moss in my soil mixes of late. I love the peat as it retains about double the amount of water and it reduces the need to water often in the veg cycle.

I have seen really good results with Just Cannabis soil. I have seen the pics of the owners grow this last season. Very impressed. Will be testing it myself on yhe next autoflower run.

I don't agree with you on this statement. If you grow organicly why would you destroy all the micro organism that you worked so hard cultivating during the season? I use organic cultivation methods indoors and you must manage the pests accordngly by having an IPM system.

You can re~use your soil. In the US the guys would test their soil after every grow and re~amend accordingly. On the scale that we grow I dont think it makes sence. I would find a good quality compost(vermicompost) and add some kelp meal and basalt rock dust(turbogrow). Maybe some alfalfa meal as atop dressing. You really only need to amend your soil once a year or every second grow. All my 50~70l bags have got something else growing in them atm.

I read a nice blog on the RQS website this week. It is all about soil mixes for autoflowers. It kind of gives my theory some backing atm. Will post a link when i find it again. My biggest Autoflowers to date.

Do you have a fan directly in them? When last did you water? And how often do you water?

I use only rain water for my indoor plants. And only well point water for my outdoor plants. I never test the pH. If you grow in an organic medium and have inoculated with an micro organism blend they will automatically pH everything for you. I have no issues.