Green Leaf Organics

Heating mat might work but I found 25 to hot as it will promote rot and fungi Cheers Reaf

I presume you mean a clone bubbler? If so heater set at 23.6 degrees. Cheers Reaf Ps aquarium heaters are never accurate so you will need to check the temperature with another device

The thing about par is that it's not a widely adopted reading for any bulbs. Some specialised bulbs will state there par rating but unless you import the bulbs directly you won't find them in SA. While we all know lux is light intensity for human vision while plants use par. Now for a home indoor grower measuring par us not easy unless you prepared to fork out big cash. Honestly the home grower also has no need for a par meter , par and lux are very closely linked and if you can measure lux you can get a rough par reading. The reason why I say a par meter is a waste is because like it or not once you have bought all your equipment you are stuck with you par rating and can only increase it by moving lights up and down. Now bring in the phone app light meter , yes it's an app and yes it's probably not very accurate but.... what it does do is give you a reference point . It measures in lux , light intencity , and light intensity is light intensity weather measuring in lux or par. This is way 90% of the grow community will use a lux and have things rated in lumen , it's just easier . Here are the multipliers to convert illuminance in Lux to PPFD for some common light sources: Source Multiplier Sunlight 0.0185 Fluorescent (Grolux) 0.029 Metal Halide 0.0141 Fluorescent (865/840) 0.0135 High Pressure Sodium 0.0122 Figures provided by Apogee Instruments. So, we can multiply the Lux value by the multiplier in the above table to find the PPFD in µmol m-2 s-1. Worked example: Code: 60 cm x 60 cm space (0.36 m²) 250 Watt HPS lamp (33,200 lumens) Lux = (total lumens) / (total area in square metres) = 33,200 / 0.36 = 92,222 PPFD = Lux x factor = 92,222 x 0.0122 = 1,125

All good bud , that's why we here is to help steer you in the right direction. Train her properly and you will get a plant 1000 times better than that sad looking little plant in the link. Top her once she teachers the 3rd internode , then top each branch at the 2nd internode. This will give you a nice short bushy plant , remembering to punch every internode as it forms. Cheers Reaf

Cannabis takes 3 to 5 weeks from seed to become sexually mature , at 3 to 5 weeks they will start to alternate node which is a sign of sexual maturity and will then show preflowers on a veg cycle. No flower cycle needed to sex a plant What you are doing just doesn't make sense...you forcing them to flower before they are mature so causing huge amounts of stress for no advantage. Let them veg and look for the preflowers you going to get a better healthier plant , you are actually slowing down the process by forcing flowering. Cheers Reaf

Glad you coming right bud. On the organic plants , you can't treat organic like hydro bud . Water the soil and leave it to dry , stop watering them little bits every day. Water them through and leave . To much love can be your worst enemy . Cheers Reaf

Hi bud I won't comment on the hydro plants as they just aren't my thing but what medium did you put those seedlings into? I personally would put a lot of the blame on those jiffy pellets... don't know why everyone loves using them... those things have a ph of 4.2! Know cannabis I know likes a ph like that. Also be carefull you can kill with to much love for your plants. Sometimes less is more. We have all been here bud and we all have to start somewhere. So my 2 cents on the organic seedlings is ph issues more than likely brought on by the peat being 4.2 but at least they growing

That's about perfect for a 600w , digital I presume. I try stay between 100k and 120k

Hi guys Since most of us have smartphones these days I thought it would be fun to see at what lux you guys are running at canopy level. If you don't have an app you can get a light meter app at the play store or apple store.

I hate to throw a spanner in the works but I would be very surprised to find a 400w at 30cm bleaching plants. I have seen this problem float around the webs for ages and a lot of people put it down to light bleaching but I personally don't think it is. I have had this problem once but with a remix on my next soil batch I never had it again and this was growing at 30cm with a 1000w bulb. Cheers Reaf

What light were you using and how far from the canopy was it?

Personally I wouldn't mess with my times half way through flower.... unless is was really needed .... then add those genetics on top of it... how lucky you feeling lol

Yip. It's a boy

Why not let the users nominate posts? If someone feels a post is worth a nomination then they can nominate it. Just a thought Cheers Reaf

Glad I could clear it up for you guys. I have my own construction business specialising in Antique building restoration . Cheers Reaf

Lol.... Right here it goes... I will do my best to explain it We all know that we pay for power by the unit or kwa ( same thig ) . 1kwa or 1 unit is 1000w of power in 1h , simple. The problem comes in is when power is produced it isn't produced in kwa it's produced in kva . This a problem since we get charged in kwa to this is were the power factor comes in. A power factor of 1 means that for every 1kva you draw on a ballast will convert it to 1kwa. The thing is a 1 power factor is very rare so electronic appliances do there best to covert it . Say now u put a digital ballast of 400w and next to it you put a magnetic , yes they both output 400w but they each deal with the converting very differently . For exampke your digital may have a power factor of say 0.9 and the magnetic has one of 0.5 , this means that your digital will convert 90% of the kva to kwa therefore only needing to draw an extra 10% power to hit the 400w OUTPUT. Now if the magnetic ballast has a power factor of 0.5 it only can convert 50%of the power to usable power while a lot gets wasted to heat , what the ballast has to do to compensate for this is draw more power to get to your 400w OUTPUT. All electronics suffer from this , that's why most are getting a lot more efficient as technology gets better at converting kva to usable power. It's like when you look at a generator , in big letters on the side it will state 10000kva and you think awesome 10kw. Then you look on the other side in small writing and it says 8000w output... that's the power factor , generated power to usable power. Everything has a power factor Lol I hope that makes sense.... I am not an electrician Cheers Reaf

If you want to get really complicated we can go into power factors because very rerely does something have a true power factor of 1 ... but that starts to make my head hurt lol

@Max You always take the measurement between the plug and ballast on the live wire. You are quite right 1000w on 220v draws 4.54 amps while 400w draws 1.8amps. The thing is they don't actually draw what they say they do. Magnetics 400w will draw close on 7amps at startup and drop to roughly 5amps after 20min. It's how they are designed with coils and magnets which is very wastefull in power . Best way we can physically see the power wastage is by touching the ballasts , if you touch a magnetic ballast they are dam hot , all the heat you are feeling is generated by power wastage. That's money that's being converted to heat energy not your grow. Same can actually be applied to led panels... I hear all this talk about panels being that much more efficient but they to take drivers(ballasts) which have to covert power and there will always be waste in conversions . That's why weather it's led or hid the power output is always stated while it isn't the true power draw. It all boils down to ohms law , if you take the reading you will get it's in amps then it's a simple equation to covert it to watts The phase current I in amps (A) is equal to the power (P) in watts (W), divided by the power factor PF times the RMS voltage V in volts (V): I(A) = P(W) / (PF × V(V)) The power factor of resistive impedance load is equal to 1. The only true way to see what you use is to test it , you can't go by the output watts . Cheers Reaf

@420 I had the same issues with what read on the Internet and at one stage I was also one of those guys that said digitals were a con and a money making thing.... I was wrong. I got a 400w digital from a friend and started doing my own tests and man was I so wrong.... personally I will never again run a magnetic... might as well just set fire to my money... Cheers Reaf

@max The 400w it's it's output , draw can vary hugely . Digitals will draw close to there 400w output while magnetics waste a lot of power to get to 400w output so it has to draw more. weather it's magnetic or ditigal they both pull more on startup. Digitals at startup are a lot more efficient as they have what's called a soft start were the microchips controlled the startup to just let the bulbs ignite. For example my 1000w digitals start of by only pulling a small amount to of power to get the bulbs ignited . Then after about 40 seconds you can actually see the bulbs kick I to a higher wattage and then at about 1 min they kick I to full 1000w mode. They do this for a few reasons , but it's mainly to help controlled the startup draw especially if you turning g on multiple 1000w at a time. It takes about 10min for a digutal hid to get to full lumen. Magnetics on the other hand go balls to the wall from the start drawing insane amounts if power to get going , for example my 400w magnetic runs at 989w when it's been on for 20min but at the start it draws 1450w , now imagine switching on multiple magnetic ballasts at once and the wiring you would need to support it all. It's a joke actually that my 1000w digital actually draws less on startup and the same after 20min. Well almost the same , Magnetic 400w pulls 989w while digital 1000w pulls 1005w.... Here's a nice little fact about prepaid meters I found out yesterday that if you type #1# on you metres it will tell you exactly how much you are drawing of the grid. Hope I answered your question max as I can waffle on a bit. Cheers Reaf

Using chemical nutrients in soil is a big no no. It will kill of all the good microbes in your soil. Since you have only done it once I don't see it being that much of an issue... but I could be wrong. Those seedlings are still tiny to be worrying about feeding , soil organic at least I am not a hydro grower .I would not make a tea with talborne for feeding , it was not designed for that and especially for seedlings that are very sensitive. If anything I would just flush the soil with plain water but be careful of damping off with all this watering going on. Cheers Reaf

Isn't nutrifeed a chemical nutrient?

Hi bud On digital ballasts there are chips that control the power sent to the bulbs , they can read how worn a bulb is and compensate for that by sending more power to the bulb . Therefor a the bulb will output a constant lumen output never getting less. The drawback to this is as the bulb ages you will use more power and you will have a much higher failed rate on bulbs at the end of there lifespan due to the high power being pumped into them by the ballast to keep the lumen output constant. On a digital ballast you can test bulb age with a amp meter but you need to know what they pull with new bulbs then you can keep an eye on there age because as they get older they will draw more amps. Magnetic ballasts are pigs. .. they eat power and waste half of it. There only redeeming fact is that they are bullet proof. Magnetic ballasts are as tough as nails and last years. As a bulb ages on a magnetic ballast it will drop in lumen to a point were it's only outputting 50% of it's original lumens , you would think they eye would notice but it doesn't. Best way to test a bulb on magnetic is with a light meter or an app for your phone. Once again you need to take a starting reading with a new bulb to have something to reference it to. I have done extensive testing between digital and magnetic and found on average magnetics pull twice there rated power output while digitals pull there rated output. All tests were done with new bulbs and ballasts. Cheers Reaf

20-40ml of talborne to 5l medium and 50ml lime to 5l medium

All the builders in my area stock it , try a builders in yours . You want the red packet , think its call fruit and flower