Prom

rather nice to watch.. you put your head really into your project. Don't invest to much in electric heating. It costs energy for the small effect it has. I saw pictures of hemp plants covered in snow. The seeds and youngsters hate cold.. the older ones can handle. But not that you want them cold.. my point is, if you have to heat, use gas and turn the heat into CO2 at the same time. Your lamp generates heat. You do not have to constantly suck air and heat out of your tent. I use it more for moisture regulation. As long as it is not getting to moist, you can just leave the inside circulation running. If you run a gas heater inside the tent, you will add moisture too.. but will never run short on CO2.. no CO2 no growing, is the essential component plants get their carbon from. When you prepare your tent for the next grow, a sulfur burner gets is very easy cleaned up of any lurking fungi.

If I can.. not always possible ^^ I put my plants into the dark for two days before harvest. Also get no water anymore and stay dry. Is more a method to shorten curing time. The plants just starts to eat them self, you see that leaves yellow rather harsh after those 2 days. If you have a mildew issue before, you do not put them in the dark for two days. Even you keep em dry and ventilated.. not helping ^^ I even made a test with some blue cheese autos.. if there is a difference. In a blind test, friends pointed clear out, the dark weed is smoother to smoke after the same curing time (2 weeks). Same seeds, same fertilizer, same soil, same light.. 2 plants went dark, 2 didn't.

Can get done ^^ but the resulting plant will be "weaker" as the original. You might be disappointed with the result after your "little" mission. I am rather sure with all the posts, you got all the information you need. The major steps you have to do is remove all flower material, flush the soil very good and put her into 24 hours light (might trim her shorter if you can). I did that a long time ago.. and decided that it was a waste of time.. perhaps also way to inexperienced at the time and messed things up. Wish you all the best for your mission Just saw that Evan posted the bible pages regarding your issue ^^ not the bible written on hopes and dreams.. our bible based on facts. ^^ All there.. do that and you have your best chance.. but still ^^ don't think you get the same mother back, sorry bro

Sounds like a plan ^^ wish you in any case loads of fun and little frustration

Looking good.. hope you know what you are getting yourself into everybody tells you how "addictive" weed is when smoking it.. nobody warns you that growing the stuff is the really addictive part of the plant. flower distance.. 30-40cm.. your light looks to far away from the plant in the picture. And for the ventilation ^^ is enough. would put more plants in.. loads of unused light space

As long as it tastes good and has a nice effect on me.. I consume it. I do not prefer one over the other.. mornings I am more a Sativa type.. evening more Indica.. but all of them in Ruderalis form ^^ Smokers forget the third strain.. growers know it

Also take out the PC power supply.. gives you all the 12v power you need. To calculate your draw, I wouldn't just go a little below. Check that you have 50% of overcapacity in your adapter. Runs cooler, uses less electricity. If you let something run hot, the resistance increases and it draws more power. The colder you run your electric gear, the more efficient you are.

Lets talk how to make easy hash. I will keep it more on the simple side, some decisions you simply have to make yourself, other steps are give and are rather a must. But as none of the steps are rushed, a rather relaxing procedure. First step is getting your grids.. which ones, I leave that selection to yourself, as not in the mood to hear: bought the wrong sizes because of you! I use 2 max.. (Google, decide, you can always reorder), I know people using 4 (i just think is a bit over done, if you consume the stuff and don't want to sell in different qualities. Depending on which "take" i rub, i skip the fine one completely, only use the fine one with take 1. I use a cheap Car massage system and put one side of the grids (rather firm connected) on one of those vibrators, set to max. This is not needed at all, I am just a lazy fag ^^ And you need a hard, very smooth surface below your grid.. mirror/glass works best. Once you have the grids of your choice, next order you have to do is dry ice (www.dryice.co.za, 20kg, R816 + shipping, 3mm pellets) and some clean silicon kitchen gloves or non powdered (like always when you handle weed) medical gloves. The dry ice will last 2-3 days, so order that best to the date you want to use it. When you store it, wrap some additional blankets around and place it beside your air intake for the tent Free CO2 generator. There is no need to put your dry left over into the freezer. You just wait 10 minutes longer with wet material, the dry ice does what it says.. it drys very quick ^^ and no liquid left overs. Material I use are fluff buds and material from dressing the A class buds I want to keep. Those are the GSC fluffies, made no pic of the WoW material i hashed, but looked 1 to 1 the same. GSC gets bubbled. In your bucket with the material you dump some dry ice pellets and shake it in in steps. In a 10 liter bucket I drop around 4 cups of dry ice. The 20kg box you get is HUGE ^^ would guess you can easy do 15 huge trees with that box. I had 5 Wonder Woman total. Used not even one quarter. Once it stops "steaming" the water is gone, mix carefully and check that none of those pellets enter your glove.. or you will end with a freeze burn, dry ice is -80C. When you take a bud out and squeeze it.. it should just crumble to dust.. ready to go. Take a hand full out and rub it firm in between your hands. the dry ice pellets will help you get the material fine. Don't take to much, but you are also in no rush, all will stay super cold. No need to dig in your fingers.. just move it gentle without any down force over the grid, that way your fingers stay warm. What falls through looks more like a fog. Depending how long you work the more you change quality. I work each batch around 60-90 seconds. Keep the material, you can do more than 1 take. First will be super sticky and very easy to form a ball, third to fourth will be more powdery and demanding a heat press to get some potency out. When done, remove the material into a second container and rub on a next batch with your hands till done. The fine grid will have collected 90% of the pollen you filtered out. I add some dry ice pellets to that pollen and let it cool down again. Then use a old credit card to gently move it over the fine grid with as little down force as possible. When you are happy, you put the batches in bags. To work with the fine grid, the lower you get the temperature, the better will be the result. (was take Nr4, so a bit greenish) The left overs from 2 10L containers And the result of the first take You can use a pollen press, your hands (gloves) or leave it in the natural chunk it forms by gravity inside the bag. Depending to that, color will change. But is very soft and very sticky... If you have a phone call and have to leave during a batch is on the grid, add some dry ice and let it cool down, that way you don't mess up your grid. Cleaning the grids, any soft brush will do.. if you cool the grid down with some dry ice, you get it rather clean.. just careful.. very cold things like to break way easier. Freeze burns hurt.. keep that in mind before you get one and don't "rub" down when you work the material.. only slide it gentle over the grid. Rest.. good luck and have fun

last one for this month #5 Beauty of Hash. First batch I got from the Wonder Woman outdoor fluff buds and left over dressing material. You see difference in color by using a pollen press, hand roll or the original unpressed bag chunk.

#4 (this one is a bit hard to get ^^) Winter Pollen

Be careful! 42FastBuds had half prices yesterday and today they "celebrate" 420 with buy one get one free.. and they also raised the seed prices by about 90%.. so total cheat!!!! Don't order from those dudes right now.. they rip you off badly!

I asked for the light, if you raised it, the bottom leaves might not get enough anymore and the plant just shuts some down... they also die by age, done their shift, but shouldn't happen after 6 weeks. As long as a plant is growing fast, she is in no lock down.. that they have, when they stop growing. So she is still growing normal, but has some issues with spots and yellow.. the yellow doesn't fit to the Calcium issue.. so welcome to hemp growing I am rather reluctant to agree with the 6.5 watering.. first you need to test your soils Ph. The result will tell you if you flush or add some CalMag

#3 The Marsian

Primary nutrition only gets blocked from absorption when your Ph goes 5.5 and under in soil.. not sure he reached that with the numbers he provided... so get a soil Ph meter and see where you stand, rest is guessing.. I hate guessing And just keep in mind.. your plants need also some dry time at the roots. After the hot summer, people like to over water.. plants need a lot less water now. Forgot half ^^ You have more of those brown spots.. what can also point to a Calcium deficiency. But still.. what light, how often do you feed?

What light do you use and light cycle? How often do you water your plants? (bottom feed or top feed?) We all learn.. there is nobody knowing all Ph range for soil is 6-7 ... where a liquid with 6 is already 10 times more acidic compared to a 7. That is the theory.. and the Ph window you play with. After that the battle ground opens and heads clash In general you enter "opinion" ground. Some like that, some like that and because nothing is recorded or each bean differs in genetics.. hard to say which is better. My personal opinion on fertilizers and Ph... if you use a biological fertilizer and rain water in organic soil, the micro life should keep all in balance.. if you damage that micro life, your Ph will swing out of range. If you use a chemical fertilizer or tap water, i suggest to bring your feeding liquid in the needed range of 6-7, before you feed your plants. Others might suggest otherwise.. best is to test yourself and see what you prefer as a result. What brings to the point.. soil Ph is what you keep happy. I don't think with those pics, that you have any nute issue.. I thought all your leaves start to yellow ^^ can't feel them, but they still look "leathery" and "heavy" to me. So back to the second question of this post ^^

First thing jumping my mind with your ingredient mix is Perlite

mhhh can you turn your grow light off and use the flash.. or bring a white light in to make the picture. I need to see the "green". And still wouldn't run in circles ^^ how many grows you did so far?

Humidity is rather on the good side.. so see that spot as the plant gave up on the leaf and "what ever" made a spot Neem... what do I think of Neem.. the friendliest is waste of money. Or.. before I would use Neem, I would try to lick it off the leaves myself When ever you see something on leaves and don't know what it could be, google "cannabis leaves deficiencies" and go Images.. you are never the first having that type of problem Quick add.. no need to take a plant out of the fabric pot.. you can just smell directly. Root rot you smell rather easy and as long as you do not let your pots stand in liquid for to long, root rot shouldn't become a issue in fabric pots. Put 3 bricks below, good air flow below your pot will prevent it.

Mixing your own soil is doable but for a start and the boost of success at harvest, I wouldn't try to invent the wheel again. If you have a grow shop close.. say hello and see what they recommend, get a grow soil. And is always very handy when you have a second opinion to show your issue directly. Looking at a leaf and feeling it tells you 1000 times more as a picture. So being friends with the guys from the grow shop.. never hurts If your local shop is to far.. ^^ have a quick research about fertilizer products people recommend.. and make a pick ^^ Rest.. have fun growing

it is moist out there now.. at the moment there are several fungi on your plant.. the issue only comes when they over board. You get those spots in general towards the end. Just get her back to healthy growing and the rest, the plant will sort out. If you get those spots in healthy green areas.. you have to watch a bit closer.. right now.. I wouldn't run in circles and throw my arms in the air just have an eye on your other leaves, if they stay nice and green.. your feeding change did the trick. And I would remove that leaf... If not flowering or short before.. perhaps a last spray with copper soap? Prevention is always better... and while not flowering, you can unpack some artillery ^^ Root rot is very easy to detect.. lift the plant out of the pot and take a smell from closer.. you get those brown spots often when over watering. The problem with fungi is that, some like it colder, some like it hotter.. but in general, none likes it dry so as long as you have a humid environment, you create room for fungi. Having your air intake going through a HEPA filter, would help too. I think your nute change will sort the issue.. i still think is N deficiency

The brown spot looks more like fungi damage.. but also doesn't look to tragic. From the pics, I would give some more N... if you think that you are low on calcium.. give some Calmag ^^ that way you add more Ca and N ^^ should solve your yellowing issue

Evenly yellowing from the tips can have two causes.. over watering or N deficiency. If the leaves feel "light", N.. if they feel heavy.. to much water.

#2 Monster Bruce Banner's Day 59.. a Budscape in green

I very much agree with Totemic on this one