Naughty.Psychonaut

Actually, in a 1mx1m space I'll throw in 2 x 150w.

Yes, 3 of those 50w's seem more appropriate, but then why not just go for the 150w for R390?3 x the 50w will set you back R570. +/- R180 difference.

Yes boooiii, 3 x that 150w in a 1mx1m space will toast your ladies. I am running a 50w in a 80cm x 80cm space and plants are happy! Again this is 50w, got 4 plants under the thing. 2 of them and you'll be flying, bro. No doubt.

@afternoon blazer I see what you did there, so this is actually the 150w from acdc we're speaking of? Those are good temps, yeah! Do you carry the plant out in the sun each day? That's dedication!! @ORGANinc. Let me know how the light runs! I guess either way I'm getting one! I literally just put my digikey order through, gona put something special together for my 1mx1m flower space. Then use the blurple just for veg and I have to say it's quite a nice light. Apollo 8, said to be 300w but true wattage is around 240. Plants explode once they go from this light to the blurp. So when I get this flood light I'll just keep it in this "grow box". Once I got the new light running gona spoil myself with a new tent, can't wait!!

Few things to concider then. The 150w will be kinda overkill to be completely honest. It pushes out 12000lumens and quite a bit of heat, so unless your setup is equipt with proper passive intakes and the appropriate inline fan to replace the whole space with cool fresh air every 5 min (fan measurment ACFM = Actual Cubic Feet per Minute in correlation with the cubic feet of your space) you'll be risking overheating the grow space and possibly scorching the plants. If you only gona do 2 plants you don't need that much spread and will be able to hang a light quite close to the ladies, a light that gets too hot will force you to hang it further from the plants and that will cause the ladies to stretch like hell. You could try actively cooling it by blowing fans over the light in the direction of the inline fan to push the heat out of the space and allowing you to hang it closer to the plants. If I where you I would actually rather go with a smaller light, but then this thing is on special and such a fucking good deal!!! Also why I wana get one, even if I use it as a night light outside, it's a fucking good light for a fucking good price. You probably gona pay more for a smaller light right now hahah

@CreX I knew it was something I didn't necessarily have to order online. Putting together a 300W LED light, would I need any specific kinda variable resistor? We have a few local hardware shops aswell as electronic shops, I'll check all of them before getting online. @Jimmy-z Thanks man, I'll keep that link if I don't find a local walk in outlet that can help me!

Yeah this electricity situation in our country is redicilous, untill I can comfortably go off the grid completely I won't even think about HID. I would love to run a CMH. @afternoon blazer that 150w is defs a good deal!! How many plants you plan on vegging at a time?

G'day mates Where do you guys get your potentiometers and resistors? Anywhere local or should I rather add it to my digikey order? TIA.

Indeed, I am. In this pic you can just about see the "50W" on the light itself. Other specs where mentioned earlier in the thread. When it comes to LED it is really not the wattage which should be of main concern, but rather the overall estimated Lumens. Or more specifically, Lumens per Watt. I have found high wattage lights, huge lights, that push very average lumens. These are the ones to be avoided, specially because they'll typically be priced a bit lower and they look real big and mighty. This is where looks can be very decieving! Then there is the low watt high lumen output lights, these are the ones built for specific purposes and will be a bit more expensive. Not the most detailed explination, but Lumens per Watt means the amount of light you get for the amount of electricity used. Where the Lumens refer to the light intensity and the Watts refer to the amount of juice sucked from the wall.

I would also like to see this thing in action. I already phoned the place I got this light at, they'll do a refund for me, but I don't wana take this light out before I have the new one and I am on the brim of finishing up saving for something much more important. So as soon as I get my ducks in a row I'll grab one of these aswell! This is a deal not to miss, IMO. I think just sticking to LED rather than HID you're already much better off concerning the bill!

Spread their legs and gave them AACT twice by now, did another Bioneem treatment. The little red things down below is just a couple of sweet potatos rooting and a tip of a trichocereus bridgesii cutting sticking out there. Also: I had a few extra clones, given all away except for this one Banana Hammock. It's free to anyone who wants it, must be able to link up in Hermanus area to collect.

Just daily check ups and water when needed. Day 38:

@BlakDogg Hell yeah, I like this shib!! I'm in the process of building basically the exact same thing, will be my first one! Got my alu sitting in the corner, waiting till funds allow me to place my order with digikey.

It actually mimics what happens in nature, just pushing it to greater extents. Cannabis flowers during winter when the days get shorter and nigts get longer and the temps are all around lower than in summer. So I guess people have tried pushing it with that whole thing and no one can really say if it does any good or bad. Someone on the forum pushed for amber trichs when they where all clear still but the rest of the plant has been showing signs of finishing, so after the 48h dark he had a good percentage of amber. I mean that's pretty cool, but who can say if it was really the dark... If you put ice, remember it melts and within few hours will just be wet soil again. Not to say that the drop in temps might have an effect, but then again so does not giving light at all for that long.

@DamDave This is a good read hahah I like everything about this! I wish I had some pics of my old CFL setup hahah your shit looks 100 times better than mine did! I am literally still running a full DIY setup for veg with a clicks desk clip fan, a flood light, a bathroom extractor fan and a cabinet I built one busy morning. Anyway, awesome thread you got going here, your plants look like they appreciate all that you do for them!

Ok, sooooo This is a NO GO. Exactly as you mentioned, it will throw the ph out completely! It should only be used when planted straight in the earth, never in pots. Only small quantities and when you see deficiencies. The ash itself supplies potassium at a bang but over time starts to release great amounts of lime and mag!

Yeah I do this, make sure they enter the dark period dry as possible, kickstarts the dry process and there will be no more light that helps with moisture usually. Darkness and humidity is also not a great combination to have with all those beautiful fruits you farmed that already carry their own moisture, think of it as already having them cut and hanging in darkness for dry, then adding pots filled with wet soil in that area. Do you have a nice loupe for checking the trichs?

I agree, looks like magnesium def.

That is a valid point. I might know someone that can tell me more about this, will get back on this thread with the info once I have it!

Yeah, I was kicking my own ass when I saw that light. I might still return for a refund then pick up the same one you have! On the other hand, I'm im the process of building a proper 300W LED for the tent then will upgrade all my propagation stuff and move my 300W blurple to the propagation space and will no longer need the floods. So might even be worthless, might just return for refund and done.

Aaah, the light I should've gotten for my propagation area! I got a LED flood light too, literally days before I saw the recommendation from crex for the same one you got!

I know about the wood ash, never tried it... how about dumping a scoop in the vortex? Will be able to test and regulate the ph of the water before I give it. I got dolomite lime mixed in, will look into the Ecobuz multigrow! Thanks man!

@afternoon blazer Nice, like they say you miss 100% of the chances you don't take and 100% success rate is still achievable without all the fancy gear, all you need to do is try! What light you using? I've seen so many different "make-shift" humidity domes, I would say the best ones are just bottoms of plastic bottles cut to fit over only the seed and as soon as life appears, remove the domes, individually, and drop RH to around 40% and increase airflow as there was none in the dome. Another rule of thumb is absolutely no light during germination. No roots ever want any kinda light on them whatsoever. Many people feel like they'll be able to see the roots so why not plant in a see through pot or something, but trust me "seeing your roots" is never a good thing unless you're transplanting or doing a DWC inspection.

@afternoon blazer What's good my dude! I have made quite some changes to my method of popping seeds, only because what I had before was stuff laying around the house! I will look at a few points, first answer your questions and tell you what I did with these seeds, then give my suggestions and recommendations based on what I did to avoid the same mistakes! I am learning as I go still, also very new to all this so wouldn't go around telling people to do what I do for great success!! I popped these seeds on a heat mat between 30 and 35°C. Under a 85W 4000K (cool white) CFL bulb hung literally 5cm above the dome. Around 85%RH inside the dome but as soon as they open their cotyledons remove the dome or you'll be risking a lot!! Get them used to heat and direct light and all that as soon as possible. As soon as you remove the dome you have to take the light up atleast 20cm away from the seedling or the heat will cause stress or even worse, burn the plant, while there's really not even enough light coming from those CFLs to make the plant grow. My suggestion would be to never waste your time and money on CFLs. When popping seeds you wana go for the same kelvin as for veg (between 4000k and 6500k, a nice cool white). You really don't need much Wattage because you're not vegging under this light and if it's only for propagation seeds as low as 10W will do. Also don't need much in terms of Lumens as this only becomes important when you're in full veg and the plant is taking up nutes and all that. Also a handy tip for people like me who are still learning, keep away from any biological matter when popping seeds. A seed will pop with nothing but moisture and in a high RH environment with a lot of biological matter you'll encourage all kinds of life to sprout and you risk a lot by doing this! This is where Jiffy pellets (any kinda sterile medium) and distilled water comes in!! Also, going over 35°C will cook your seeds and anything under 25°C will slow things down drastically, so grab a heat mat and thermometer, will help a lot with these cold winter nights!! Happy Growing!!

@Bospatrollie2 I rent where I stay and there is nowhere to keep the setup outside without it being exposed to the elements. We get super harsh winds making it virtually impossible to keep a nice garden outside without a decent wind screens and I'm not allowed to put up any roofs or walls. At the moment the vortex is about 4m from where I sleep and the tent and all not far from that, so the noise is real. Any specific things you know of that one can add to increase P? Have a few ladies in flower that I'm sure will appreciate it!