Bos

6 minutes ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

Hey bud, I know Kemprin is an insecticide, but for interest sake, why did you use Kemprin particularly? 

you can definitely still save that plant though.

Mites are pesky little fucks, but with the right preventative measures you'll almost never see them in your garden or at least keep populations at bay. 

they're so "microscopicly" tiny that they can travel in wind, literally they act as fungi spores, so for good measure, you kinda have to assume that they're everywhere all the time. by saying this, it should be clear that you have quite a bit of a problem om your hands there. If not taken care of correctly they will spread without a doubt, they will even infest and make nests in your tent and fuck with future grows. 

with your situation, here is what I would do - bomb the grow with 3% peroxide solution, then with ISO wipe down (everything from the light to the ratchets they hang on to the floor mat/tray every single thing you can take out the tent, take it out and clean it) then spray pyrol at a strong dose in the empty tent and let everything run, fans and all so the pyrol and disinfectant agents get inside your fans and air vents. maybe do this twice or three times before bringing the plants back in. 

just whatever you do, DO NOT bring the plants back in before they're bug free, otherwise your cleanout will be in vein

the plants need to be shock treated, all of them. I would suggest pyrol, but at a lower dose than recommended because they already look stunted. 2 or 3 Pyrol treatments will do the trick no doubt. (rather spray more times at a lower dose, than to spray one high dose and toast the plants completely) then from there on you gona have to up your IPM. 

1st rule of thumb, don't take in any clones or gifted plants without bombing them with your special IPM. 

2nd rule, be religious about IPM.

3rd rule, make sure your airflow is unfavourble to the mites. either switch up how the fans run or more fans more fans more fans.

Quarintine all incoming plants, dose them and keep separate from main grow area. More treatments at lower dosages are more effective so you can cover the whole life cycle of the pest/mite from egg to larvae to adult- killing all of them. IPM is a neccesity, mites are tough buggers and some are known develop resistance if you keep using the same stuff repeatedly. 

We like to mix it up with more than one insecticide. Hit them hard with different stuff more than once.

7 hours ago, ORGANinc. said:

Ya bud the process happens quite fast, store bought soil would be somewhat dormant I would think, once you start inoculating the soil adding food into the system, grow cover crop of different varieties, you start innoculating the soil with indigenous micro-organis that inhabit the cover crop seed from germination. Creating more diversity. Introducing mulch, the benefit of mulch are honestly enormous. Covering the soil stops oxidation in the top layer of soil, that top layer is now moist and humid, allowing for even more habitation of microorganisms more decomposition, I want to really see if I can beef up my mulch game. 
 

you want organic moist and humid 

Agree with the mulch idea, remarkable difference in moisture retention and top soil layer temps. Also noticed more 'activity' in the top layer with mulch. Our outdoor growbeds have yet to be 'watered' and the potted plants (25-30lt) seem to last a day or two longer than usual. 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lovebug

They are an invasive species, but dont seem to be too much bad news for your plants.

Nice.

The law is the law....or its supposed to be. The theory on paper is good, but excecution and interpretation is another story as we've seen for years thanks to CancER.

In deepest darkest Seff Efrika it is applied differently. There are 'other' considerations and 'special' extrenuating circumstances that must be taken into account. (Sarcasm, tongue in cheek) It depends on who perpetrated the crime, what mood the arresting officer is in, who the criminal is friends with, strength of connections to ruling party, what his political/ethnic convictions are etc, etc, etc.... 

The 'pimp' Mr Celery is a good example. Previously found guilty of crimes and dismissed from the saps, but then re-appointed to lead??? Corruption, fraud, drugs and guns - Prime example of the 'Law' at work in our beautifull New Seff Efrika.

Its sad and scary.

Like the structure, nice flat top and branches look solid enough to carry some heavy flowers.

On 9/15/2021 at 10:30 PM, Weskush said:

So no drainage holes in the black totes?

Doing the stacking thing, bottom totes have drainage to collect worm tea, totes on top have multiple holes for tea draining down and worms migrating up when bottom totes are full. 

20 hours ago, Weskush said:

Nice one. Do you drill holes in those compost totes or leave em as is?

 

The blue compost drums have 2 rows of 9mm holes all the way around. 

Been a busy time...

Sifted 400lt of compost from the JoJo composter, cooking 200lt's on the backburner for the next round in the wheelybin.

Mixed 2 batches of 160lt's.

Base store bought 'soil' amended with wood ash, volcanic rock dust, dol lime, bone meal, bio ocean kelp and 60lt of sifted compost and 30lt EWC each. The soil in the blue drums get rolled every week to mix and aerate during cooking. The drums are less messy and look neater, rolling them also much less effort that spade turning.

Been struggling to find decent EWC locally, decided 'stuff this' and started our own farm, mix of red wrigglers and local worms. Started with 1, now up to 2 totes, very soon 4x60lt totes will supply 40-80lt's every 2-3mnths. The tea is a welcome bonus. Worms seem happy as they breeding like bunnies.

Have built an outdoor light setup incorporating 2x of the 50w versions and a 150w led flood in the centre. 

Using it to extend daylight hours and vegging clones outdoors. They do get warm so some active/passive cooling will extend the usefull life. Mine been running for about 6 months and no problems so far.

Doubt they would be suitable for flowering, for a decent indoor setup, those lights won't be the best choice.

Super soil, as an idea is wonderfull, but in practicality its a bit of a tall order, pipe dream or panacea...upset apple cart....ohh damn!!!

We grow cannabis for reasons contradicting mother natures' intentions, not purely for the plants' procreation. 

Not even the Lords gardener, Mother Nature works like that. 

Naturally, the plants grow on the edge of forested or intermeadiate area's and during their 'lifetime' they recieve numerous organic nutrient inputs from decaying matter etc. that nature supplies. 

Biologically your mix will change a lot during the 'cooking' process. 

Looks like you have most of the bases covered nutrient/amendment wise.... maybe some AACT and a spade 'turning' every 2 weeks maybe?

First 3 layers of the new growbed, brown, green and brown on top. Carry on with layers untill we're happy.

Aweh gromies. Been a busy winter......

Lots of prep done and still to be done.

Our first 'natural' growbed(6x2m) Wanted to try keep it as natural as possible. We don't have soil here....only sand, drainage is good but thats it. With all the crap going down in our Province, most materials were in short supply anyway, had to thknk outside the box. Did a 'lasagne' type layering effect with browns and greens with shade net sides to keep the animals out and the organics in. Worked some bonemeal, rockdust and dol lime in there and plenty AACT from the wormfarm. 60 odd days later the humus layer is forming well and the 'organisms' are present. 

We'll be planting directly into the bed and just keep topdressing with organic material.

As the first bed is doing so well we starting a 2nd 8x2m bed.

Cheers

Good day fellow florists.

Time to dust this thread off.

Made some progress with summer prep. 

Started a 6m x 2m growbed next to the tunnel for summer. As well as a seperate veggie patch with 6x 2x1m beds for the pretty redhead and her greenfingers.

Started layering browns and greens with compost (240lt for our jojo bin) in between. Amended with rock dust, dol lime and bone meal. AACT will be applied to assist with microbial breakdown.

All from renewable sources that would otherwise have gone into landfill. 

My low tech soil mixer. Beats mixing by spade.

Very cool scale, allready doing duty. (Winter grown Bluecheese)

Thanks @PASSTHEDUTCH

Awesome to have Sponsors like you guys onboard. 

Agree with @PsyCLown wrt to the extremes of the 2 grow techniques and the costs involved. Combining the 2 may prove  difficult and even more expensive. Auto's can be finicky or sensitive and they are unforgiving, any mistakes during veg will affect your yield. So you'll have to get some experience under the belt IMO. The Autoflower guys on the forum will know. Stability of the auto strain you choose to grow will play a role. 

Maybe start ''small'', hone your skills and then ramp it up? Some R&D in the future?

The discussion between which is ''better'': indoor/outdoor/greenhouse...is for another thread.

@Stefan

Will you be growing organic or with chem nutes?  Soil, coco or hydro? 

If you can manage indoor conditions in an outdoor enviroment, you might get similar depending on genetics.

We've been growing in a similar 18m2 tunnel on the north coast.

40deg and 90% rh in summer is a blik$!m to try and manage even with fans running 24/7. 

Poly tunnels get very hot in summer and their factory ventilation is poor-think sauna. So your tunnel location/placement will be important if you want to make use of natural sunlight depending on your local weather. If using lights, you'll have to veg and flower the whole tunnel.

Major issues are going to be enviromental factors and how you control, mitigate them, but with all those controls come a price. 

Aweh @Growbaron 

Feeding a plant high levels of nitrogen during flower may also create leafy buds like those. Sunlight hours this time of the year will also push a plant to reveg.

In order to help with this situation we'll need a bit more info about your grow setup.

Welcome to the forum.

Plenty knowledge to be found here.

You got some decent spires there.

3 hours ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

Just a question, not knocking. 

Why would you mix Epsom salts, with CalMag? Since the latter is a mix of the 2, you already have Magnesium in the Calcium mix.

Though I agree with your comment of them causing precipitation, there seems to be some missing information and a good discussion possibly. 

Just a tidbit of info for the OP, dont mix the two, 'shotgun' remedies may do more harm than good. Years back I was a noob and made that mistake, so speak from personal experience. 

Done the reveg thing outdoors a few times, not for monstercropping but to preserve a genetic.  

Like @CreX said, wild vegetative growth all over, every nodes seems to want to grow at once. Some growths get very stretchy(20cm internodal) and woody. Lots of cleaning up and defoliating. The clones I cut rooted well and the buds were the same as the mother. But its a lengthy process, so from an indoor point of view not sure if its gonna be worth it.

Calmag and Epsom reacts and precipitates out when mixed. 

7 hours ago, wanna be dagga kop said:

Aweh, 

So I'm using freedom farms green bag of soil and they have been in the pots now for 6 weeks. Pot size is 15l and I'm only using 0.5ml bloom per 2lt. It's autos so I'm being light on the nutes. 

How long into flower? Cant see from the pics.

A maintenance dose of calmag should sort the Ca.

@wanna be dagga kop

What medium you using

How big is the pot

What do you feed and how much

How old is the plant and how long in the medium?

Some of those marks may be from spilled nutes, but your leaves are very dark and look 'hard' and some of those whitish interveinal spots look like Ca def.