Bos

Fusarium occurs naturally in soil ( where all is in equilibrium, its kept under control naturally ) as it is part of the rhizosphere flora, but under certain circumstances it can become a serious problem. There seem to be some links between high Nitrogen ferts, overwatering and heatstress. Only a few suggested soil treatment methods exist, like solarization, peroxide sprays, fumigation and fungal treatments, all with varying degrees of efficacy and practicallity. Mostly its suggested to discard the soil (for potted grows) as the fungus can remain dormant in your soil for years, the success rates of the different treatment methods are debatable. To be safe, DO NOT compost any infected plant material or soil that hasn't been treated. There is a LOT of literature on the web, as its a serious issue in commercial farming around the world. Culled and burnt many trees last year, it was a sad situation. After a lot of research and consultation with other local growers, trichoderma was suggested as it consumes other fungus. My applications have been done to my soil and growbeds and so far only have one potted plant that seems to show symptoms. Will burn it tomorrow. Strongs.

That is Fusarium sp. or Fusarium wilt. Soilbourne pathogenic fungus, enters the plant mostly via the roots, blocks the xylem channels and symtoms usually appear during flower. Do some googling, its a bad one to have and can spread easily. Cut and burn all affected plants, they will not recover. Been there done this. Soil can be treated with trichoderma beneficial fungus preparations. Ecobuzz rootpro seems to have worked for me.

These ladies got their veg on nicely. Could probably hear them growing...haha. Cleaned up under the skirts and removed the bottom 2 nodes.(got some big clones) Topdressed with Guano pellets and a sprinkling of bonemeal. Noticed some preflower action happening here and there, so the game is afoot. Need to do a follow up biogrow inseticide spray, but the weather looks like rain. Luckily haven't had any serious pest issues yet, but ipm is ipm.

I'd like to add here as well. Growing in pots in our heat has disadvantages, you have to manage this enviroment for your plants. I believe mulching may assist your growing efforts. Its got mulitiple advantages. 5cm of grass clippings or straw will help with moisture retention as well as keeping your soil surface cool in the heat. Its essential in the hotter areas of RSA as cannabis plants has lots of fine roots near the surface. It will also benefit the micro organisms in the soil and in turn they will benefit your plants, it will also add organic matter as it breaks down and you can easily just top it up. On the north coast 30-40deg C is common in summer, some of my seedlings have burned to a crisp. I add a layer to all my pots and even my 2x growbeds and I can see the benefit just in my watering schedule.

Size matters.

Those white dots are a sure sign of spidermite damage and won't "heal". Check the underside of the leaves to confirm. An organic insecticide should do the trick, just be aware that spidermite are persistant buggers and can develop resistance to insecticides. A topdress with mulch/straw/grass clippings would help with evaporation. The new growth looks good and healthy, which is a good sign.

Seems like a plan is coming together. Thanks to the missus then...

Aweh @Scoobydoob Those girls look good and healthy man. The Vitaveg route will work if you want an offtheshelf solution. Big girls need a lot of food and it can get pricey. Topdressing for flower, you'll need P and K with a bit of N. The plants will use what they need from what you feed them. P-Good clean woodash will work(charcoal will work also, but not briquettes), does have a high ph, so don't go overboard. A light sprinkling will do, 2 handfulls/plant. K-Bananas, can blend them into a tea with water and molasses(skins and all-let stand 24hrs) or let them go overripe and dig them into the soil around the stems and water it in. A good organic fert- The herb Comfrey Comfrey grows easily and the leaves can be mulched into the soil as a topdress or made into a tea by blending with water and molasses. The nutrients in leaves can also be extracted by fermentation.

Aweh gromies. The girls started showing some early signs, females got transplanted to final spots. Might chuck some pollen if we find a good male, but thats a big if, as theres enough other stuff going on. 1. Girls only recieved some natural rain and wormtea, with a crassclipping topdress to conserve moisture and keep the rootzone cool. Will do a lower part cleanup once they get over any transplant stress and start vegging proper. 2. Got some potted ladies going as well, wanted to compare growth and yield between the growbed and my diy soil style of growing for my own interest. 3. Did a serious defol on this big girl as she was getting way too bushy. Might need to do some lst to open her up a bit. She recieved some biobiz grow humic/fulvic and molasses as she seem quite hungry. Lekker

Solid sativa in preflower.

Some beautifull big ladies you got going. Looking healthy and strong.

@HappyGrower Sounds like there is a foreign pathogen at play here. Or those jiffys are too wet. Do you squeeze the excess water out? Clones are sensitive and the cuts are basically open wounds, ready for any outside fungus or bacteria to enter the new host. Tobacco mosaic/Fusarium can be introduced and spread real easily when cutting clones. You basically spread it between your cuttings unknowingly. Try disinfecting your blade between cuts. I Prefer buffered coco in solo cups, excess moisture squeezed out before packing solo's. Disinfect everything with peroxide or bleach even hands and gloves. Take cuttings in the morning or afternoon, trim excess leaves and growth with a clean blade, b4 cutting stem. Cut clones go into tap water asap(less than 5sec), let them park in cool shady spot indoors for 24hrs in water. Stems get 'cleanly' cut again at a 45deg angle and scored along bottom 2cm of stem to allow dynaroot quick contact with cambium and into the solo's with coco. The 24hr waiting period also allows any cuts/damage on the new clone to harden off/seal/scab over before going into the dome, as the warm, humid dome is technically an incubator for nasties. Never used to wait, but now the rooting rate has improved. Only mist from underneath in dome with tapwater, leave closed for 3 days. Run my 48w CW smd strip lights at 14/10 or 16/8 depending time of year. Usually have good roots 7 to 10 days in, start hardening off outdoors from 14 days, 95-100% rate so far. 16 clones on day 3. 8 from 8 hardening off outdoors.

Aweh. Young ones are doing well, transplanted to 9lt bags for sexing. Root rot claimed 2 due to 3 days of rain.

Those ladies look good. Lekker.

Also be aware that spidermite can develop resistance to a pesticide if you use the same one repeatedly.

My money is on a grasshopper or locust judging by the type of damage, they'll munch the leaves and the stems. Difficult to deal with cause they move around a lot. With catterpillars, you'd most likely find them still on the plant and their poop is a dead give away, but they mostly prefer the leaves. Smallish plants need extra protection for this reason, decapitated seedlings can't normally survive that kind of damage. If the stem is not completely cut, you could support it with a small stake and try to give it a chance, it might heal.

Can you post some pics of the damage, will help to id the culprit.

Have grown some Cayenne and Habanero, just sown Jalapeno all for sauce making. Consuming them raw can get interesting, but in a sauce they work lekker. 1. Some habaneros for the next round. 2. Cooked up some sauces. Something for everything..

Aweh gromies, We've had some hectic weather the past weeks, sure most of SA experienced some dodgy weather judging by social media. Had some issues getting things started, despite the weather. These young ones are actually the 3rd attempt.... got nailed every time by some effing vegetarian critter. Running some of my own crosses from last season. The sativa dominant strains just handle our heat and humidity better. They're freshly transplanted into 9lt bags untill sexing, then onto their final homes-30-60lts. 1. Fruitpunch F5 and F2 Lemon Fire WWxMango Bubblegum. 2-3. Purple Bud x Swazi ladies Growing out 2 pheno's of this cross, a sativa and indica dominant. The sativa is the favorite so far, good spacing and stretch, strong lemon, citrussy scent, can barely touch the plant and its lemonzest all over. Will let the indica run its course out of curiosity, but hopes are fading for her. Got a dash of spidermite but biogrow will sort that. 4-7. While the ladies are doing their thing we got some other stuff going. Healthy living and good eating. Managed well over 20kgs of tomatoes and a few more on the various 'cherry' varieties.

This might help.

Looking real good.

Well done, some awesome flowers.

That plant is re-vegging, hence the weird leaves.

Quarintine all incoming plants, dose them and keep separate from main grow area. More treatments at lower dosages are more effective so you can cover the whole life cycle of the pest/mite from egg to larvae to adult- killing all of them. IPM is a neccesity, mites are tough buggers and some are known develop resistance if you keep using the same stuff repeatedly. We like to mix it up with more than one insecticide. Hit them hard with different stuff more than once.