Prom

Yup.. needs more time to ripen ^^

Wrong diode.. i wouldn't waste my money on a lm281 light.. way less efficient as the lm301. 301B or H.. forget the rest or if you don't want to go Samsung, choose same tech from a different producer.. just leave the old tech be.. is just old ^^ like HID systems

The pH window for soil is 6.0-7.0 .. same range just different window.

Yes, and remember to let the new batch stand at least over night and take a new pH reading before you change tank.. just to be sure. In water culture the nutrient intake is a bit different. Magnesium and Manganese have a different window and swapping the pH gives the plant the best way to increase the intake. Stick for germination to 5.8-6.2. And next time use rockwool. Hope that helped..

Hydro ^^ is kinda sexy you hover in the 5.5-6.5 area in hydro. To give your plants a little edge, don't stick to the same value, look to vary with each new batch from 5.6 to 6.4. Stay once above 6, next below 6 and so on. You see the first 5 finger leaf, plant is out of germ. If your dripper is right, the plant will not die ^^ i prefer halo drippers. Looks healthy, the roots will find the water. If you feed organic.. you can't use pH up or down or you turn it into chemical feeding. Need organic up and downs.. Lemon juice/vinegar (diluted) or liquid limestone do the same trick, just keep you organic. Drop of pH Up or Down in your organic fertilizer mix turns it chemical.

75watt on a 0.6x0.6 is a bit low ^^ 2 of those lamps would do a great job. I use 120w on such a field in my setups... and am rather on the low wattage side. Most prefer 150w on a 0.6x0.6 area / 600w on a 1.2x1.2.

When I harvest, I remove as many leaves as I can on each plant and hang the whole plant to dry. Once I think I am dry enough.. in general is way more humid as you think.. I remove the buds from the stems and put em in big jars with a Hydrometer. If I am to moist still, I place that jar directly at one of my tent exit fans. Is in general 50% humidity coming out, will dry quick, so a few hours later I close and let the moisture even out, the hydrometer tells me that without guessing. Once the jar stands for 2 days between 63 and 60% I remove the hydrometer and put a 62% boveda bag in. Big jars get a big bag, 67g. As long as I am sure my jars seal 100%, the bag will balance it to 62% over the next 2 weeks. After 2 weeks I remove the bag and simply keep the jar closed in my storage fridge (not powered). I dress the buds in those jars when ever I have the time. They cure in the jars till is their turn. I smoke about 6-10g a day, so if I shut down, I need at least a kg on stock or I will run out for sure before I can do any harvest again. Harvest time is always a bit the point, most people have issues waiting. If somebody always ends with more brown than 'whiteish' buds... Wait for it! Is like a apple not ripe will always be green and sour ^^ once they change color, they get tasty. There are different opinions out there at what moisture level curing stops. Ranges from 58-54%, at least my last stand of knowledge. Once gets too dry, the micro organisms can't survive.. means they will not cause natural decay anymore. I don't like to have my jars go below 58%, due to curing. Batches going dry, usually also end more on the darker side as end result. If the nutrients in the flower can't decay, stays dark and is way more bitter as the smoke should be. Is the tricky part with weed.. germination, veg, flower, harvest, storage.. all have crucial points and if you fuck up one, quality drops. Flower, Harvest and Storage you can very much ruin it and render it worthless.

I use the 62% too. When the hydrometer tells me for 2 days that I have 60-62% in the jar, I exchange the meter with a bag. In my opinion the brown color comes when you harvest to early or let the weed dry below 54% humidity, dry it to much.

Somebody stole some of my jars, hydro meters and weed.... you took some of my Boveda bags too.. not cool, bro! Nice job!

Keep me posted ^^ it sounds a bit like the promised land.. you know, boobs everywhere I only work with Fish-Mix and Bloom right now.. add molasses myself with the Amino Pro amino acids. Doesn't look to bad either ^^ Is Firejuice biological or chemical? Would love to give em a little boost now they really push flowers.

I don't know.. he really convinced me to try it.. just importing your own fertilizer is a freakin mission. I prefer to got to a store when i need it.

Thanks! Those Gaia Green products you don't get in SA?

Do you get the stuff in SA now? Checked 2 years ago into it, is the stuff MrCanuk, or how ever he is spelled, is using, or?

Winter grow is smaller.. Autos don't turn into 4 meter trees. The bigger the pot, the taller the plant. If you stick to a 10L pot, the plants will hardly reach 75-90cm during summer. Winter temp/weather wise, less big anyhow. Bending the main is about as radical as LST can be done. As you do not care about canape outside, i would just LST the side nodes to have sun as much as possible without getting shade by any fan leaf. Autos you avoid removing anything... tug away the fan leaf if needed, don't remove it. Autos love no stress ^^

I miss TopMax but what can you do if there is none ^^ Very happy when this experiment is over. Doable, but there is nothing relaxing growing that tent. Added another fan center top down.. simply needed but also a few more kwh on the bill. Had out every single plant yesterday and did a clean out again. I had a small spot on a Blue Cheese, PM, so all plants got a spray with Serenade. Should sort any further issues but I also did something I wouldn't have done otherwise, I cleaned out the lower parts, removed the weak nodes. Lets see if they show me the finger for that. Other thing I learned are the pots.. i hate them. Couldn't get my old design (why do they always swap pot design anyhow? ^^). Asked at the grow shop for 10 L square soil pots. Got handed this. The guy in the shop uses them himself, they work awesome. His words. I had the fear to have to much run off but the 2cm raise also wouldn't let em stand in the soup. Oh would I have finished the thought, wouldn't have bought those pots. As long as the soil is moist, it kinda works, but as soon as it gets rather dry.. i like to do that from time to time, those pots don't work anymore as is just way to much running through the pot. That much, that you have to feed more often in smaller steps. A lot more work.. double at least. Usually never have to clean up the tray.. with those pots i have to. The more air on the bottom was just too tempting but doesn't work once the soil is dry. Hydro setup with expanded clay pebbles i see them work perfect. Would go Fabric pots before I use those pots again.. and don't like them as you need 2 hands to handle one fabric pot. Plastic pots I can handle 1 with 1 hand. And as there is no TopMax.. very curious if I reach the desired dry amount pre square meter area. If I do.. might have wasted some money the last years the stuff isn't cheap.

Depends a bit how you do your LST.. if you bend the hole plant over first, off center isn't a stupid idea.. but i usually just pull the side branches to the outside. Training is usually done to indoor plants to keep the canape even. Indoor light is not the same as the Sun, fades with distance very quick while the PAR you measure in sunlight on top or bottom plant is still the same reading. Outdoor training is done to maximize harvest, indoor training to reduce fluff buds. If is your first grow.. I wouldn't go to complicated.. the more you add to your first run.. the easier you run into a fuckup. Starting to drive with a F1 car Setup will not make your life easier as a beginner. Normal car is fine.. then add step by step more complexity to the menu. As LST says.. light STRESS training. Still stress... learn to grow the plant, autos are cool. But over all you will want to run a few photos too, so you can learn their behavior too and the combined knowledge will teach you how to grow cannabis.

12 June.. Autos doing what Autos do ^^

Plant fades.. cut is my suggestion too. She is that late, rodelization can easy occur. Seagro is more for veg and even for veg is rather weak. If you get your fertilizer from Builders, next time get some GuanoFlo for flower. Should give a way better result.. you lack P and K with Seagro.

Just filled 100 10L pots with FF green bags.. had no issues with pH so far.. even I actually broke the 'biological' rule at the start. Stopped feeding the Silica... as is chemical. Run it without or till TopMax is back. I had 2 plants needing a flush.. they are fine and green again. Not sure what I do with the Silica now... should have used my head before I bought it. For any lockout the plant shows a different sign. What ever pH you have, the plant will show you that and you could diagnose your pH level with those signs.. without using a tool. For that you need to know the signs. When i started 35 years with my first plants, you had the bible (Cannabis Grow Encyclopedia) and that is it. You found more or less all in that huge book.. but searching, reading and pictures made things not over all easy. Next person you could ask are friends, if they also grew, otherwise.. nothing, no help. Today with the internet, if I run into a issue I can't answer, i study what is different and simply look on the internet. You are never the first running into a hemp grow issue.. and loads of people already made a post somewhere about exactly your issue. Finding it is not always easy.. but is out there, trust me. The sites like this also helped to pool some knowledge together, is why I say run a grow diary on your first grow. More then enough people in here to help with the common issues first timers run into. Reading a few of those diaries before you start prepares you rather well. Buy tools when you learned it and want to go deeper into understanding. But first time grower i would still advise, buy a bag of FF Premium Classic, and grow just in that soil with water.. what ever water. Pot up like you should if not an auto and learn growing a plant in the first place is not given to all out there. Winter just makes the outcome look less successful. For somebody to understand the importance of pH... this picture shows you what the plant can absorb in what ranges... and you see why stick to where you should stick

Lets skip those ISP's ^^ Friend just went to WebAfrica.. you can't open a ticket without having Whats App installed (not using any facebook products myself) so can't give her support. I tried for an hour on her Whats App to get hold of a technician telling me her login so I can install a proper router, the thingy they send is just junk Try Monday again while she has troubles connecting further as 4 meter from the thingy. Plants ^^ Autos doing what Autos do... today is last day week 7. Tallest plants center and the smaller ones to the outside towards the 4 entries. WW's clear smaller as the rest, top left plants. Have 49% humidity inside right now. I am very happy when this experiment is over.. had every single plant out yesterday to check for any PM and cleaning yellow or dried up leaves... so far so good. My ventilation keeping up so far but it gets crowded ^^ Looking forward to shut down for a bit, need a break, also fly to Europe for a few months August on. Like last year, not planting anything outdoor anyhow. WW's are ahead in flowering. GSC's are the tallest plants so far. Blue Dream the 'weakest' over all, might be temp wise. I reach 28 over day, April even had a few times over 30. The WW's also don't stretch to much and are perfect for such a mass grow. Is what you call a dress friendly plant ^^ WW's should be done in 2-3 weeks. 10 - 11 weeks total. Lets see ^^ I thought the Blue Dream would be the fastest... I was wrong or they do something i never saw.. or weather goes very wet and all ends in a white nightmare I knock on wood, so far so good. Hope I have one more month before the rain starts to go nasty.

Don't mix apples and Kiwis ^^ As soon as you use tap water, you run a chemical setup.. they do not drop organics into the water to fluorite it Tap water is chemical feeding and needs to get Ph'ed. You only can skip it on rain water. Never flush soil with tap water.. the chemistry inside the water is mend to kill micro organisms.. not helping your soil to drench it with a weak disinfectant. If you want all the tools needed to run your plants in the right regions.. you need a few tools, not just a pen.. and if you don't get all needed tools, you never get the full answers anyhow. The pen helps you with EC, PPM and Ph.. that give you an idea what you feed.. but not if it is the right stuff you feed. Next you would need a refractometer for your brix numbers to see if you have the right amount sugar in your leaves.. and when you have the right sugar in your leaves, you need a quantum flux meter to give them the right amount of light.. and when all that is in the right region.. you have a very good run. What you feed them.. is a bit key. Does a new grower need all those tools? I wouldn't say no.. but also not yes. Is a question how serious you want to tackle the topic of growing weed. The more professional you want to go, the more tools you need to confirm your learning process. Once you have all in, you don't need those tools anymore. I use the Quantum Flux meter only when I get new lights in to measure and learn the light. I do not use the tool on my old lights.. I know how to hang those for each stage.. and is not that 950 micromole or 1000 do a huge difference. The tools give you a range to run in. So if you Ph every time.. you do nothing wrong.. and if you work with tap water.. you should check, wouldn't do it every day, if I always use the same amounts to mix a batch. If you poor in by hand.. Christ, yes, measure. If you use syringes and measure in ml on 10+ liters of water.. you should end with the same result every time, as long as the guy in the water storage did his job right too. Chemistry is an exact science. My final advice would be this. If you have rain water storage go soil with organic fertilizers. If you only have tap water available, coco or hydro. If you want to go soil with tap water.. you need to Ph, at least even i would. Chemical feeding is just different. In my case I would go hydro with tap water, what i ran in Europe. If you want to grow big.. hydro is the only way to simplify your feeding to max on big scale (10k plants and more). And is my opinion.. what means it counts mainly for me ^^ others have other opinions. I changed from hydro to soil as i had rain water available suddenly.. and somebody with a lot more experience as i have told me to try it. I enjoy the peaceful growing with soil. Use my gadgets not as often as before.. except the refractometer, the leaves still baffle me a bit what color they have compared to sugar content. Strains behave very different. So after 35 years of growing weed... not even close of understanding the plant in full. So please, don't stop giving advice.. i might be the one asking at one stage

If you always mix the same amounts together, the result in Ph should be the same, if the producer of the stuff does his job right. So you would need a pen once... till you change again your fertilizer setup. I go with @SkunkPharm... Even i ran into issues with 2 plants out of 94, I do not Ph... those 2 could also just have a genetic defect not be able to handle nutrition transport like the others.. or Ph was off for those 2 pots as I mixed something in while repotting.. or a concentration of substance inside the bag i used for those pots was off (different spots, so not sequence pots, is unlikely). My 2 lockouts didn't teach me a thing... i can just guess why those 2 needed a flush and the rest didn't. Both plants are back to green and get the same mix as the rest.. nothing wrong with them so far. If all plants went lockout.. yes, I would have to dig into the why and what I did wrong.. but 2 out of 94... I just flushed each and didn't really care why. You don't always get answers.. but you can always rescue each plant with a simple remedy.

Just because it is organic, doesn't mean you can mix together what you want. Or lets say, once you add a chemical compound, you will very likely run into issues. There is no TopMax right now... very annoying. I got me some silica product to help while i wait for TopMax to be back on the shelves. Those 3ml per 10 liter already pushed 2 plants into a lockout, 2 different strains. You see, you flush and things are back to normal. Not even unpacked my Pen.. i think the thingy is broken anyhow never used. Last time I dipped it into calibration solution it just showed me crap. If you run hydro, pen or fix installed Ph meter is a must.. your only option to mix things right. That is why those pens are around in my opinion. (Sorry, I ignore the coco dudes as usual ^^ is just half/half) If you grow, you need to know the plants lockout signs, which you learn by time. And as soon as you see a plant going stall, you flush it.. always the same remedy ^^ Get as much water out of the pot as you can and put her back. Week later she should be green on all new growth and go back to fertilizing. I wanted to get the solution tested with the silica in, very curious how much is goes off with those 6ml in 20 liters. Will just borrow a pen for a quick use ^^ Would prefer to have TopMax back and go back to normal.

I highly suggest to move them indoors over night. Try not to shake the pot to much when you move them. Yes, the temperature took 15 seeds out as I left em out over night and got just cold for one night. 2 of those 15 survived and never got bigger as 10-15cm. Bonsai weed, tells you that things went really wrong.

Temperature is key for the first weeks. If you put em out in germination, will kill your germinating seeds. All below 12 degrees will stun them heavy (bad idea with autos). Below 8 they are a goner. You can grow autos all year long, as long as you look that the climate still works for the plants. Once they are out of germ, they can take more but cold isn't the best for the root system. If you can run them on a heating plate and keep the soil at 20, you shouldn't run into any issues. Full sun is perfect and the sun still packs 2000 micromoles PAR during winter, just get less duration and harvest is smaller. I know the Blue Cheese and Blueberry Kush from Nirvana.. i like both plants even they have a few pheno types swinging in them. Not really difficult to grow either. Would stick to 10 liter pots and see how that works out. If you run a grow diary, you keep easy track of what you do and can get easy help. I lost a batch of seeds in September 3 years ago due to temperature.. is what you have to watch very careful at the start. Blue Cheese Autos i have in the tent right now