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1000Hills Nursery

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Posts posted by 1000Hills Nursery

  1. 2 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

    @Mambawana where do you get your Triacontanol from and have you done tests as to whether it actually makes a noticeable difference?

    Any idea as to how much of a difference a foliar spray vs adding it with nutes makes to the way it works?

     

    Also how do you plan on using the wettable sulfur and only during veg or will you possibly use it during flower too? Whats the actual difference between wetting sulfur and normal sulfur / sulphur?

    Triacontanol is available from a company called inteligro. It's about 700 for 1ltr. The dosage is crazy low. 8ml to 100ltrs. Yes it definitely works. Speeds up growth and really bushes out a plant. I've physically noticed a difference in a week. I aggressively leaf stripped 2 of my GG clones. The plant sprayed with triacontanol recovered and grew all its foliage back a lot faster. Atm I'm testing higher doses on some clones I've got outdoors, my guinea pig plants for testing everything. I'm checking to see if higher doses can cause any mutations. I have not noticed a difference when mixed into Nutes but definitely with foliar feeding. 

    I don't know the difference between the 2 sulphurs as yet. But I'm on it. And no I don't spray anything in flower. The latest I've ever sprayed was day 14 and that was only once and it was an emergency.

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  2. 54 minutes ago, SuMi said:

    I have set them to flower and was wondering why the banana kush keeps stretching ...having to lift the lights up higher everyday.

    15742665984366649279436875414546.jpg

    It's probably in its genetics to stretch. I would recommend bending all those tall branches so that you can get your canopy even. All those lower branches will catch up and you will be able to have your light at a decent height so everything gets sufficient light. A small scrog net over your plants will give you tons of tops just judging by the amount of nodes those branches have. Try not position the stretchy plant directly under your light, keep it to the side so when it goes through the crazy preflower stretch atleast you will have some room to play with.

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  3. 1 minute ago, Breadinator said:


     

     


    This is popular with commercial organic wine grape farmers and is readibly available, although I am not sure what the smallest quantity the "gif smouse" are selling.

     

    Not sure if you guys watch the gml show but they have actually mentioned once that it comes from the grape industry. I'm pretty sure they could do 25kgs or maybe 50 kg bags. I'm guessing it's quite cheap. Thanks I'm going to look into it.

  4. 22 minutes ago, Bakstein420 said:

    @Mambawana how often would you recommend a foliar spray with kelpack? 

    Well you could do it often like every other day with great results. I use to alternate, some days I use my standard nutes other days calmag. And then atleast once every 2 weeks hit her with a silica spray. Just remember your leaves are very sensitive. They cannot handle what the root zone can. So go with mild solutions.

    Nowadays I just don't have the time to do it all often enough. The few sprays that I make sure I carryout are silica atleast 2 times during veg. Triacontanol once a week or so. IPM 2 weekly or so. I spray kelp a day after a heavy pesticide spray. And then the last spray I do is on around day 10 flower and is a nice heavy copper soap spray. 

    The product I'm really interested in trying is called wetable sulphur. It's used a lot in the states. It's basically a pesticide that kills almost everything and is not systemic. But every time I go ask for it at a nursery I get told there's no such thing.

    • Thanks 1
  5. 6 minutes ago, Nikkel said:

    Yep, normally a day or so after damp spot under bag disappear the bags are at their lightest...

    Good stuff... Just not too light because that can be worse then over watering

  6. 8 minutes ago, 420SA said:

    I'm gonna get flack for saying this but if you keep going for autos your chances of duds are higher as well.

    True but autos have earned a place in our community. Many scenarios people just can't grow photos. Like right now for instance... If I needed bud asap, I would grow a couple 60 day autos. Or if my yard was heavily light polluted by street lights or neighbours lights I would have no choice but to grow autos.

    The flip side to being put in this position would be you probably gonna have mediocre end results. Although some breeders are putting crazy thc numbers on their autos so who knows maybe someone on this forum is gonna meet up with a Fire pheno and show us all something new.

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  7. 3 minutes ago, Mambawana said:

    @Nikkel beautiful plants brother. I would just get rid of the leaf miners cos they can get out of control. Remove the leaves they in already and try get some neem or something and do preventative spraying

    And the best way to know when to water your plants is still the weight test. Feed her when she's light and you will have explosive growth. 

    • Like 1
  8. 20 minutes ago, Ill_Evan said:

    Awe kewl, so if I had kept the res as is I could've just added micro, but since I've done a res change I'm going to start on just below the recommended dosage and treat that as the max. So for my 7.5 litre res each I am going to add 4ml of Nutriplex micro, gro and bloom. That should keep it just below max dosage. 

    I do keep my water overnight before adding to the res, but when I did the res change now I just filled them straight from the hose. Had to balance the res once every few hours to get it to stabalise but it's good now. 

    Awe @greenkush. I initially thought nitrogen toxicity but the way I've been adding nutes, lockout and high pH are the clear issues I had. I've now got a very good idea of how high a dose this particular strain can take. Second time growing this strain specifically. 

    @PsyCLown hydrogen peroxide was something I read into when I first researched into DWC, but I decided that if I could manage the res water well enough I could avoid having to use it and since the coming of @CreX and his ultimate knowledge on teas I am now convinced one does not really need it unless in a root rot emergency. I think if you add the right bacterias to your res you can avoid the majority of the nasties. 

    Changing the res was the correct response to your issue. You fixed 2 issues... too high Ph and unbalanced toxic nutrient ratios. I've mentioned this before and I know you have taken plants to harvest without doing this but it's best to change your res weekly for a few reasons but mainly because if you just top up you are changing the npk ratio in the res because you have no idea what your plants have eaten and what's left behind. Now you topping up with fresh nutes so what you actually doing is adding extra of what the plant is not eating a lot of. Eventually as the weeks go by you sitting with a solution that's all locked out. Especially calcium and phosphorus. Big cultivation centres have to equipment to measure what's in the water and are able to top up with only what's needed.

    And don't just feed your plants micro. That will cause BIG deficiencies. Everything needs a balance. One thing I can tell you is your nutrient strength was not too high. There are no signs of nute burn and nute burn doesn't initially cause leaves to droop.

    Please don't get me wrong I'm not telling you what to do or questioning your growing skills cos I know you can grow just by the advice you give others. I myself have joined this forum to broaden my knowledge and to have people to talk to about my favorite past time. I hope this comes across as humble as it's meant to be.

    All the best brothers and happy growing...

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  9. There are many factors to look at in your situation before blaming the seedbanks.

    Sometimes you do get dud seeds. It's best to 1stly always buy seeds in sealed breeders packs. I've used both of the local seedbanks you have had issues with. GSR for many years and BnB since they 1st opened up. The only issue I've had was with GSR with their in-house genetics. The plants were nothing close to what they were supposed to be. Sometimes you do get dud seeds. I've ordered from international seedbanks and found that a lot of times the freebies don't pop or they take a long time to germinate. (that's if my parcel is not confiscated by our local bubu's)

    If I were you I would relook at my germination techniques and 100% rule that out before blaming the seedbanks. There are just to many variables. A lot of these seeds travel the world prior to reaching our shores. Poor handling and storage by all involved play a huge role in the viability of the seeds. As a rule I always try germinate all the seeds I buy in each batch and cull or give away the extras.

    Just keep it simple and don't lose hope. 

    • Like 3
  10. 1 hour ago, CleanGreen said:

    @Ill_Evan only ONE res nutrient change!? I should defs get an 

    You need to get an ec pen like yesterday for your type of growing. The cheap R115 takealot pen is all you need. So how do you know how much your plants are eating? You supposed to be checking your ec daily. If it rises it means your plants are drinking more water and less nutes(too strong solution).If it drops it means the opposite. Once you get it to stay almost the same... It means you have dialed in your plants without having to use the tip burn method which I currently have to use in coco. You already rocking very good yields but you still 100% need to get an ec pen.

    It will also help you diagnose your current issue.

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  11. 1 hour ago, CleanGreen said:

    @Bakstein420 interesting.. I find that CT water is in general ph7 when adding my nutes ph 6 and stays stable" used to" haha 

    Here in kzn we have a little extra cloramite in our water. Our Ph is close to 8 & our ec is around 115ppm. It takes about 3 adjustments to stabilize Ph for long storage. @Bakstein420 run an airstone in the water for an hour(this is besides declorination). It's gets the Ph to rise quickly so that you can adjust it again and stabilize. Useful during flush when you not using nutes with buffering agents

    • Like 3
  12. 1 minute ago, CleanGreen said:

    @Mambawana I planted her seed 18 September 2019, that generation 5 clones, 4th harvest, on average 270g per reservoir/2 plants in one tank.

    I dont add extra nutes when refilling during the week, just good old tap water that I air out for 24hr. Just not sure what happening with the ph fluctuations, till now I did not had to do much to ph corrections. 

    Sorry I probably misread that you add nutes. Yeah it's a strange 1 then cos you have already ruled out what I've mentioned. Let us know what you find

    • Like 1
  13. @CleanGreen yeah 2 weeks is too long. And you not supposed to be adding Nutes during the week because in dwc the ratios of each of the nutrient elements changes according to the plant feeding. They eat what they want and not equally. So in other words there could still be enough phosphorus in the solution and now you adding more by putting in more nutes. That extra phosphorus can drop the ph. Always top up with just plain water. Make notes of the ppm. If the plants are showing they need stronger Nutes dump that res and remix a fresh res.

    And wash your airstones everytime you change the res. The slime that grows on the airstone will also mess with ph and cause root problems.

    Hope you come right so you can flip that switch with confidence...

     

    Just on a side note so I know. Have you grown in dwc before or is this your 1st crack at the turbocharged form of growing weed.

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  14. Yeah I would start over. You still have time. I think you started the plant too early so they went straight into flower. I don't agree with the bag seed though. Buy some seeds and try again. And most of all don't be discouraged from this. You become a better grower after every failure.

    And if you live in kzn. I have plenty extra clones for you now that Mr cannabist has reappeared and says he dispatching my seeds on Thursday.🙄

    • Like 1
  15. 5 hours ago, CleanGreen said:

    @Mambawana Thanks man.. well so far I have done 0 on humidity and temperature of air/water. Warmest it got 26 and coldest 8 no root rot.Strong aquarium air pump on each 45l bin. My ph was stable until I introduced a Purple Haze... she turns the water acidic quickly. Using the cheap hortimix dry nutes.

    You sure it's the purple haze causing that. Have you changed the nute ratio. Maybe you started adding the hortimix MKP or have you already ruled out it's not related to Nutes. My nute solution used to always have a swing from 5.8 - 6.2 in a week until I got some root rot. That's when the Ph used to drop. Next run elevate those totes a little so that you can drop the totes to have a look at the roots every reservoir change. Unfortunately we don't have all those beautiful products we see the guys on YouTube have to kill that slimy bacteria. Hydrogen peroxide keeps it at bay somewhat.

    I apologise if you are experienced with dwc and I'm just chirping in when you already know what's happening in your garden. Just thought I'd share my experiences with you. And I made deadly mistakes in dwc.

    When I upgraded single bucket system to rdwc(3 buckets 2 plants) in week 2 flower I poisoned my plants to their death overnight. I was too anxious to do the switch after building the new system that I didn't run the system with just water for 24hours to remove all that poisonous tangent residues.

    • Like 2
  16. Great stuff there. DWC is still my most favorite way to grow. It costs the least in nutes. You use far less water. I haven't read through your whole post but I can imagine trying to do a reservoir change with the plants all scrogged up must be a lil tricky.

    When I 1st played around with dwc I grew in those black 20 litres buckets. Checking the ph and ec of each individual bucket became a real pita until I made it rdwc. 

    How do keep the temperature of the nutrient solution down? And what Nutes do you use? You have 1 rocking garden😎...

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  17. 2 minutes ago, Smelly Joe said:

    Flushing it out will be good yeah but don't you think the soil is a bit to compact leaving it to be more wet causing more issues.

    What's the possibility of a repot at this stage???

    Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk
     

    100% agree... the transplant might be tricky considering the size and shape of the existing pot coupled with the health of the plant.

    • Like 1
  18. Or it could be one of the things fewer growers suffer from. He let it dry out too much and then fed it with Nutes. Usually you see damage similar to that like 3 days after.

    • Like 1
  19. I agree with all the responses. That plant is really going to take a while to kick back from that.

    Something he has done caused this to happen quickly. You can see it was topped recently so which means it was healthy up to then. Either a nutrient feed or a pesticide spray.

    The next step is to flush out that plant and then just leave it alone. Those cheap takealot tds pens are perfect for this scenario. Measure what you putting in, measure what's coming out and you will know straight away what's the potential problem

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