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1000Hills Nursery

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Posts posted by 1000Hills Nursery

  1. Eish @SmokeyZero buddy that's root rot. What system you growing in?

    It's still pushing white roots so you can fight this. Spray roots down with garden hose. All the loose decaying stuff should fall out. Then mix a bucket of water with some peroxide and place roots in their for a short soak. After this you going to have to try and keep res temps down with ice etc. Atleast till you can't see any root slime which is the 1st sign of root rot.

  2. 6 hours ago, Breadinator said:

    Did I quick web search and seems like artificial light is able to charge solar panels (Don't know how efficient)

    So you could possibly get one of these
    64fcbb25b9d6cd8dcbc8650a4d8fcf11.jpg

    Which has a day/night sensor, can also add a solar powered airpump and diy it to the day/night sensor of the light?

    In my opinion that would work keeping light schedules on track. Especially if load shedding is happening in the middle of lights on. I'm pretty certain plants will fall asleep within that 2 hour outage and will have to wake up again when the power is back and then fall asleep again when the 12 hour cycle is complete. I don't know what negative effects this would have nor do I want to find out.

    I don't see any inefficiencies as the solar panel will receive light to charge up from your existing grow lights(if that's indeed possible) that have to be on for your plants anyway. Nice and simple to keep plants awake, as very little light is needed for just that.

    Next issue during load shedding... air circulation especially in mid to late flower???

    • Like 1
  3. @GGG 

    Hope the spray helps and rids you of that shitty PM. Quite a few guys here have said they used that mixture with good success.

    I'm interested in seeing if the spraying has any effects on any white pistils cos I've been told by guys here that spraying doesnt turn white pistils brown and personally over the years I've seen just plain water brown pistils so this will be like physical proof for someone like me that's still sceptical about the pistils being happy...

     

    • Like 1
  4. @GGG 

    Sorry to hear about your PM issues bru.  Remove the plants from the tent. Clean and sanitize your tent to kill mold and mildew spores. After that spray with crex's mixture.

    You need to then investigate as to why you getting PM. You more or less half way to the end so it's a long stretch to be at it everyday trying to keep it at bay. Look at your lights out temps and humidity. That's the time of the day that all these pathogens get perfect germination conditions. 

    What equipment you using for climate control. Intake and exhaust only or do you have an aircon or dehumidifier?

  5. Spidermites lay their eggs underside of leaves. I have heard though that spidermites can also have some form dormancy in the medium. Worries me abit as I recycle all my indoor coco. 

    I've used DE against fungus gnats, sprinkled it on top of the coco and bottom fed. Boy did I make a gooey mess and the gnats just laughed at me. Will give the dusting a shot one day.

    Defoliation as dank mentioned is always my 1st step against mites, thrips, etc. It removes alot of them and their eggs and allows better coverage with the spray.

    Pyrol as crex mentioned is very effective at eliminating dem mites. A few applications and that's the end of them.

     

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  6. 1 minute ago, DankFiend said:

    I have no experience with outdoors, but one of the nice things about this attempts is that the plants are taking care of themselves. After adding nutrients and letting to cook for a bit, the sorbet has basically been on autopilot. I haven't even. had to water because it been raining so much. ill probably give biobizz bloom and explore grow come flower - because I won't be able to help myself, but the way things are going the sorbet might yield more than what's coming from my indoor game. Wont that be nice!

    If you can grow indoors outdoors will be a breeze. Plus as a bonus you growing straight in the ground. Lots of natural nutes available for the plants. 

    In general outdoors yield way more then indoors and also way less larfies. The quality of your indoor is what would make the difference. 

    With your outdoor give the gals a good few pesticide sprays before flower kicks in. Will give you a lead over those outdoor leaf munchers to the finish line.

    • Like 1
  7. @SmokeyZero 

    Shit bru sorry about all the hiccups. I'm glad you haven't given up growing. Pyrol will kill those little red devils. Neem afterwards will hamper reproduction and repeated Pyrol will kill off the remaining. 

    Damping off sucks, I've posted alot about it to assist new growers from not suffering that fate. Overwatering or germinating seeds in a medium that's too wet definitely increases chances of it. Those coco puks you using to me are the best for germinating seeds. The main thing to always practice with seeds  and clones is sanitizing everything and keeping it clean. 

    All the luck in the days to come.

    • Like 2
  8. 19 minutes ago, Bakstein420 said:

    @Mambawana like marigolds? Quite a fragrant plant that has very colorful flowers to divert your gaze from the cannabis behind it.

    Was quite common to see 1 or 2 tress growing in marigold flower patches when I was a youngster.

    Marigolds leaves are serrated and would surely camouflage weed plants if you needed to hide it. And they also quite strong smelling. 

    So makes sense why you saw that back in the day

    • Like 1
  9. 15 minutes ago, Bakstein420 said:

    @Mambawana like marigolds? Quite a fragrant plant that has very colorful flowers to divert your gaze from the cannabis behind it.

    Was quite common to see 1 or 2 tress growing in marigold flower patches when I was a youngster.

    Well marigolds I hear are good pest deterrents...

    The decoy plant should be a weed plant thats in flower. So when someone smells weed and they see the few plants that are in view in your yard they wouldn't assume you growing the real dank indoors...

    Came in handy on new years day when had people over for a braai. They had no idea that the smell was actually coming from inside. Plus the decoy plants are good for testing purposes i.e. blooming additives, pesticide dosing, etc.

    IMG_20200104_112717.jpg

    • Like 2
  10. I've posted my decoy plants before. It's a plant grown outdoors that flowers whilst your gals indoors are flowering. So when the indoor gals start to stink up the neighborhood and by chance someone follows the smell and peeps into your yard... They see your outdoor plants and associate the smell with that plant.

    • Like 2
  11. 7 minutes ago, CreX said:

    Not so sure what GML is, but a quick Google search doesn't bring up the info that I'm looking for... 

    I don't remove any leaves from where I pinch the stem... I just damage the cambuim so that the plant is forced to heal and not grow for the time being

    GML - Grand Master Level. His topping method which isn't pinching the tops works to get the canopy even. 

    When you get a chance check out his YouTube channel. They do a live stream every week. They on another level so lots to learn.

    I also like pinching the stem. When it heals it's like opening another lane on the freeway for the nutrients to move to the tops.

    • Like 1
  12. Bladdy thrips... good approach

    Pyrol is strong stuff. Kills even spidermites.

    If you like the biogrow products then neudosen must be your next purchase, it's a potassium soap that works very well on thrips..

    I find the biogrow stuff expensive. I use organicide plus a garlic/canola oil mix with pyretherins in it. It's like 90 bucks and the mixing ratio is 5ml/litre. Pyrol is still the stuff I would turn to if I had an infestation.

    IMG_20200105_090238.jpg

    • Like 1
  13. 35 minutes ago, DankFiend said:

    Haha. I love it, it will also allow us to to see how homogenous and stable the strain is. 

    So far all 3 are exactly the same in veg. Same structure, same leaves, same height... 

    Trying to control the height across all strains but it's getting difficult, luckily I've started spotting some amber trichs so by the looks of it the flower room should be harvested, cleaned and reset next week some time. Then its transplant, a week of veg in flower room to get the roots going and to get plants to acclimate to the 1000W and then flip.

    So you going to be a good 4/5 weeks ahead of me.

    IMG_20200104_222816.jpg

    • Like 2
  14. @DankFiend 

    Nah bru, you not crazy. You want to maximize your yield in the space you have. You know the risks, you have a game plan.  

    Whether you remove the smaller branches that have reached the net or not that canopy is still going to get thick and you will require good airflow either way.

    I'll post my blue cheese flowering aswell... Who knows we might earn barneys some rep.

    • Like 1
  15. 1 hour ago, DankFiend said:

    the problem is, because the non scrog plants were vegged too long and are pretty tall, the light is being kept to high imo - so i losing some of the light advantage of scroging. the canopy is not level at all - but I am trying.

    Super crop them... I'm always over vegging my plants. There's always some delay and it's the only way I've been able to even things out somewhat.

    • Agree 1
  16. @DankFiend 

    Hermies suck. Found 2 in the garden this run. Both were from phenofinder seeds. I'm slowly trying to move away from feminised seeds but it is difficult with what regs are available. I'm not going to do a proper spread out scrog for the barneys farm genetics but rather just grow them through the scrog so it's easier to identify hermies early and remove them. 

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