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PsyCLown

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Posts posted by PsyCLown

  1. 54 minutes ago, Dank said:

    Them cats for ya :-rolled the ammonium in the pee will get converted to nutrients at some point, you can flush it a bit I cant see the harm in it. I would not use that particular pots soil for any dope right now, personally I would just mix it into my bigger living soilmix and let the microbes take care of it. Is it possible to keep Mr or Mrs Kitty away from the grow, this would help as I am sure he/she will just keep on using the nice soil. 🙂

    RH at your levels is great for flowering plants, however as soon as you have some pots that are getting watered the RH should go up a bit more. Vegging plants do like a higher humidity but I wouldn't stress too much, I am always trying to lower my humidity levels. If you find your RH is still super low after you have some pots etc, a bowl of water in the room should also raise the RH, providing there is heat for the evaporation.

    Best of luck with the grow, looking forward to seeing dem greens!

     :-peace

    Well now that I have lights, they are indoors in my grow area so no need to worry about the kitties using the soil anymore.
    Noted on the cat pee, will toss the soil back into my FF bag and mix it around and leave it at that..

     

    Noted on the RH, busy feeding now so will monitor it today and see. Otherwise I may try place a bowl of water near the heater and see if that helps.

    • Like 1
  2. Good luck
    BTW what is the multimeter measuring?
    That one was amps for 2x QB288's
    Voltages was around 49v

    I have a meter which will measure voltage and current arriving soon, will then put that up rather as its smaller and easier and neater.
    I like to monitor the power output.

    Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

    • Like 2
  3. Awe, i usually give molasses in the 2nd last week of plain water.

    I'm using a QB288v2 (samsung lm301b 3000K)
    A single QB288 for the 3 plants? What sort of wattage have you been running it at and height from the plants?

    Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

  4. Heya!

     

    So as the title states, this is just another first grow. I'm sure you've all seen many of them.

     

    Lets start with some equipment and what I'll be growing and take it from there, obviously open to suggestions as I'm still learning.

     

    I don't have a grow tent unfortunately, growing in a storage room of sorts which I've painted flat white. Grow area is approx 110cm x 90cm at a push.

     

    I have 4x 288 Quantum Boards in 3000k setup in here, currently running 2 off an ELG-240-54A while I wait for my HLG-480-54A.

     

    No extraction or air intake at the moment.

    Trying to seal up and prevent light leaks and shall be trying to complete this tomorrow. Currently lights are off at night to prevent light leak issues.

     

    I have my humidity dome in here too and have a heating pad underneath it as it's very cold.

    I have added a heater to the grow area today and it seems to be making a decent difference in terms of temps, increased from 17C to 23C.

    I have a fan inside to circulate the air. RH is on the low side at 36-40% RH so might look at adding my humidifier into the area, not sure how to control the RH with it just yet as I don't have any electronics to assist at the moment.

     

    I'm using Freedom Farms soil, Biobizz nutes (fish mix & bloom) & have a mixture of pots but plan on using 20L fabric pots in the end.

    Currently have 2 bagseed seedlings in there with 13 seeds germinating as per the below:

     

    3x Chocolope (Totemic Genetics)

    3x Bruce Banner 3 (Dark Star Genetics)

    3x Grandpa Banner (Dark Star Genetics)

    3x Sticky Icky (Dark Star Genetics)

    1x CBD Critical Mass (Seedsman)

     

    All are regular seeds except for the CBD strain which is feminised.

    I'm hoping not all 12 seeds are female as I don't have space, however I'd like at least 1 female from each.

     

    One of my bag seed seedlings might not make it, still busy monitoring it. Before my lights arrived I had to put them outside for some natural sun and my cat seems to really like the FF soil and dug up the seedling, twice. Prior to that she dug up my 3rd seedling and peed in that pot, the seedling died... Not sure if I can just flush the soil with water and reuse it?

    The stem of the dug up seedling is very thin in one area but still seems to be alive so hopefully it pulls through.

     

    Not much in terms of pics at the moment as I've been busy putting my room together and am still busy with that.

     

    Although here are the seeds in some rapid rooters and in the humidity dome. I broke off a piece of the rapid rooter and put it inside the hole to try keep the seeds dark and covered.

    The seeds were soaked for around 22 hours before being placed into the rapid rooters with the exception of the cbd strain which was soaked for closer to 28 hours and was only put into the rapid rooter today. So it's a day behind the rest.

     

    Really hoping the seeds germinate in the rapid rooters without issues. 15b760f9cda7e1ebbf336e9d6397aa58.jpgbf8a7b7e35092a840058297ae6ce0579.jpg

     

    Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 9
  5. [mention=1970]PsyCLown[/mention] still finding my way around here.
    I am starting to think that vape is a much better option - much cleaner and healthy
    I am a non-smoker(cigarettes that is). So once I find the best recipe for DIY Thc vape juice - I will join you!!!
    When I say vape, I mean vape the bud.
    So not turn it into to a liquid.

    I personally use a Vapor Genie and have a cheap Chinese herb vape. I'd love to get a PAX 3 though but they're not cheap.

    A vape heats the bud up enough to release the good stuff, the taste is more pure and the bud does not combust (burn).

    Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  6. maybe a change in subject every month, best LST, scrog, mainline etc, best veg @ 1 month or 2, best flower & best flowering untrained etc... dont know the rules, but maybe let people enter pics from prev grows etc.
     
    I like the idea, although it would limit entries as everyone grows differently and it would only be applicable to the people growing in that way.

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  7. I'm too am new and I've already voiced I think the comp is amazing and was planning on entering just for the sake of it.

    It's part of what makes this forum more of a community. Competitions like these are fun, exciting and more interactive.

    I understand that entries are needed to keep it alive and going with the sponsors, although if you must stop it I think it needs to be looked at again in a few months time as the forum grows.
    I've personally notice, in the short time I've been a member here, that there are already a few more active members on this forum. It's growing for sure and shall continue to do so.

    Over the next 6 months I'm sure we'd be able to reach the 20 entries or more a month.
    If we stop potm, the new members won't know about it and are less likely to start grow diaries and stay active.
    They'd come for some info, and if not much new activity is had they'd / nothing bringing them back then they won't come back and will end up inactive.

    My 2c

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  8. As far as I understand what you are trying to do is gradually increase the nutrient dosage to get to the final result. You typically would not want to go higher than the maximum recommended EC or ml depending what you are measuring as that would cause nutrient burn. So I think you have two options
    1) Start with the initial recommended dose, and then each week increase it a little so that by the end of the grow you are at the maximum recommended value
    2) Start with the initial recommended dose, follow their schedule and then keep it at the maximum once you get there even if that is for a few more weeks.
    Perhaps one of the more experienced growers could say which is better (I'm guessing option 2). But whatever you do you'll need to watch the plan to see if there are any signs of burn or deficiency. 
    I hope that helps  
    That makes more sense, especially option 2.

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  9. 32 minutes ago, greenkush said:

    I've been having issues with heat, this light is currently only running at 400 watts, which is pretty intense for the size of the plants and I've also lowered it this morning. The picture makes it look high from the plants but its about 30cm if not less.

    Also I would advise against any form of bar heaters, elements are red and while it may not put off any visible potential light, I can't really say for sure. I would rather look at getting a reptile ceramic light, it emits not light what so ever and does not get red hot. It's purely designed not to disrupt their nocturnal habits.

    4dba23d9-45f6-4369-890f-c213f8782328.thumb.jpg.6d6da6d97413759192037671b399043a.jpg

     

     

    What lights are you running? I assume LED's of some sort?

     

    Bar heaters are certainly not a great idea, although surely the heaters with an element and a fan would be alright? Due to the fan I do not think the element gets hot enough to glow, might differ a bit based on design as well I guess.

  10. This is probably quite a n00b question, but how do the schedules work as it has week 1 to 9, but a grow will take longer than 9 weeks - even with autos they're generally 11 or 12 weeks.

     

    I know you generally do not feed until week 2 or 3, then if you want to veg for 2 months you have 5 weeks still which will take you to week 5 on the schedule. 

    Then flowering can easily take 8 - 12 weeks on top of that, but the schedule only goes to week 9.

     

    So what am I not understanding regarding these schedules?

  11. 27 minutes ago, Stoukie said:

    Yes definitely risky, but that's the whole point of the experiment, let's see what it does when I top it, if it works great, of not then hopefully someone learns from my mistake.

    Had success with my Blue Cheese Auto by topping it, let's see if it was a fluke 😊

     

    I have 12 autoflower seeds laying around, so by all means cut it and let me learn from your mistakes 😄 haha

    I had planned on only doing LST on them.

     

    You'd only top an auto which is growing quickly though, otherwise it may be doing more harm than good I guess?

  12. Pollen that comes from a male flower on a female plant will have no male chromosomes and will produce female offspring. 
    The next generations will become hermaphrodite a lot easier if plants get stressed, etc.
    How do breeders make feminised seeds then? Try get a mutant plant?

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  13. With the bit of research I've done so far, a hermie will produce femenized seeds by itself, but you stand a good chance of carrying over the hermie in the seed. Therefore seeds produced this way is more likely to hermie by itself instead of needing the colloidal silver to force the male flowers to grow.
    Don't see any reason for this not to work on a autos as well.
    I see, so if you force a hermie and then have another female and use the hermie to pollinate the hermie will that reduce the chances of those seeds turning into hermes easily?

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    • Like 1
  14. Hmm, this is interesting.

     

    So the hermie won't produce seeds by itself? Cannot pollinate itself and create feminised seeds?

    Still need another female in flowering to be pollinated, although you're bound to get feminised seeds at least?

     

    I assume this would work with autoflowers as well?

     

    @CleanGreen you therefore end up cloning a clone and so it continues until you decide to stop?

    From what I have read it shouldn't be an issue and will fine as well, easier than having two tents - one for flowering and one for veg.

  15. 4 minutes ago, CG420za said:

    Yo man, when you add the biobizz nutes to your water it'll level at about 5.3/5.4

    Also, you're doing an organic grow, pH shouldn't be a worry. The microbes in the soil will buffer the pH.

    Do some reading on AACT and how to inoculate your soil. You'll never have a pH problem

    :-peace

    Ok, so with organic / living soil (same thing, right?) the microbes in the soil will buffer the water pH so it is not as much of a concern with higher or lower pH levels?

    If the BioBizz lowers the pH that is great for when I start using the nutrients although in the first 2 - 3 weeks when it is just tap water, will the microbes just buffer the pH and therefore nothing I need to really worry about or even monitor?

     

    Will look into AACT, Activated Aerated Compost Tea? This is something I would make and add to the soil with a feed or alternate between the AACT and BioBizz nutrients?
    Should I use AACT during the first 3 weeks, so from seedling phase when you'd normally use just tap water, replace it with some AACT?

    • Like 1
  16. Hey all,

     

    So my equipment is slowly starting to arrive for my first grow and I'm still left with a few questions I'd like to get sorted before I start to try have a fantastic first grow!

     

    PH Level seems quite important, so hopefully my questions in this thread and the answers I get can assist other members too.

     

    I have a cheap pH pen which can be adjusted with a screw driver and comes with some oh buffer solutions. 4.00ph and 6.81ph (I think).

     

    Now I'll be using Freedom Farms Classic Organic soil which seems to be really good for cannabis from what I've read. On the packet it states its recommended to use a water with a pH level of around 5.1 which seems quite low?

    I assume its due to what's already in the soil and it will then sort itself out? I tested some tap water yesterday and it was 7.8 which is quite a bit higher - although I have yet to calibrate the pH pen, so once calibrated that may change.

    I also plan on using Bio Bizz nutrients and read that the Freedom Farms soil should be good for 2-3 weeks of growth?

     

    1.Should I be using some pH down to bring the pH of my water down to around 5.1 before watering or what's the best practice in this regard?

     

    2. Once I start using the biobizz nutrients, I assume the pH of the soil will change too. What sort of pH would I want my feeding mix (so water and nutrients combined) to be?

     

    3. How important is it to test run off water and what do you want to try aim for regarding the pH level of the run off water?

    I believe this may change depending on the type of soil you use as a living soil may change over time or help buffer the pH?

     

     

    4. I also got a chinese TDS & EC pen, it tells temp, ppm and us/cm. I read somewhere that it can be useful when feeding to help measure the strength of the nutrients.

    How would one use such a device, is it really needed?

     

    5. Would you want different pH levels in different stages of the plants cycle / growth? Like during germination, seedling, veg and flower?

     

    Thanks,

    Psy

     

    Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

     

     

    • Like 1
  17. Do you plan on changing the speed between high and low or just using either high all the time or just low all the time?

     

    From what I can tell, you need the Neutral and then you connect live to either LA for high speed or LB for low speed.

    Alternatively something which will allow you to switch between LA and LB to change the speed.

  18. 12 minutes ago, Dank said:

    Vacuum seal or jar flowers, kief, extracts, etc and store them in a deep-freezer. 

    Bud can last for years like this.

    Cannabis can also be canned and stored for long periods of time, just keep temps of storage low.

    Vacuum seal and deep freeze, is this really ideal? Wouldn't there be moisture issues when it defrosts?

    Would it be recommended to put a boveda pack in the bag before vacuum sealing?

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