Totemic

Joh, I don't know man... 

I don't pH my feeds... Could that not be an issue? I've never had that reaction from biobizz... 

That's 15 different strains in the image below. All of them are on the same feeding schedule and only get 1ml/l grow with every watering(every 3rd day). They'll start getting bloom from next week only once they are on day 15 of 12/12.

9 minutes ago, DamDave said:

But you guys are using chemicals, correct? What would the procedure be naturally? You would need a dedicated grow environment for starters, then some manual labour.

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Why are chemicals an issue? 

Only natural way is rhodelization. Thing is though, well with the genetics I choose to work with, rhodelization is one of my selection criteria. Ie, selecting for females that resist it, and go into reveg mode instead. I don't want to breed with females that throw bananas at the end of their cycle... 

It's really not complicated. Isolate your grow from other pollen sources. I do this by breeding indoors and in winter

She might be adjusting to the new nute schedule. I wouldn't try and treat what you are seeing just yet...she may correct herself in a few days.

Just now, SAgrower said:

I have seen many people say "Im going to finish this one outside", what's the reason behind this?

It's a longer flowering pheno, and maybe has 3 weeks left. It's flowering season outdoors now, and I'd rather reset my tent, than keep it going for just 1 plant. 

2 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

Very nice @Totemic
Very quick flower time indeed though

#3 stood out from the start... Going to be running clones of her and putting them though some stress testing. 

10 minutes ago, ORGANinc. said:

Very nice bud! Nugs look similar to slurri but the size of Gelato, and they all have speed on their side! Cant wait to grow this. Must put out a ton of resin! Looking Compactttt!

Yeah I've thoroughly enjoyed this small sample grow, and keen to start really hunting this line. 

Day 56

And then there were three. Pheno 3 has been harvested. She could have gone another week for more amber, but I'm happy with the development after 7.5-8 weeks. While no 4, and 1 are coming down in the next few days. I might just put no 2 outside to finish. 

#3 

With colloidal silver, getting the right ppm of silver in solution is an issue. Then the second issue is that one needs to spray the plant/branch daily for the first 3 weeks of flower... Then there is still a high likelihood that it didn't work... So no pollen. 

With STS, you flip to 12/12, you spray the plant once every 5 days, 4 sprays total, with the last spray on day 20, and you going to get pollen, a lot of it by day 35. So to get pollination timing right, the pollen donor goes into flower 2 weeks before the seed producers. 

Colloidal silver is silver ions in distilled water. Made by elecrolosis of silver. 

STS, well I've said what it is. 

STS is the COMMERCIAL method. forget colloidal silver 

Dude STS stands for silver Thiosulphate. It's a combination of chemicals that makes a female plant make pollen. STS is the commercial go to for making feminized seeds. 

10 minutes ago, DamDave said:

Egg or the chicken question. Which came first?

Jokes aside. I've been reading up on producing feminized seeds, not that I'll be going down that path for some time. It's I just love the plant and reading and learning new things about is my chill time.

Some say colliade ?? silver yay and some say nay.
Old school way sounds complicated. Still don't understand what I read.

Any opinions?



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STS for the win man. It doesn't fail to produce a large amount of pollen 

I read OG as 'original'

8 hours ago, Weedomics said:

OK once my lady is in flower I runn all the way till the end with nutrition. Until one week before harvest. I then switch up with only ripen.

I feel in the plants natural habitat no one will flush. However this season I'm going to run a test with two of my clones. I will flush one and not the other. The flush is normally done in the last week. (guys please correct me if I'm wrong)

The 3days of darkness before harvest is to slow down the drying process from my opinion. I stand to be corrected.


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In its natural habitat it will experience a "flush". The biological activity in summer vs late autumn/winter. There is more biological activity in the hotter months which means more available nutrients. 

Flushing though is something you do when you have pH issues or salt buildup. The flush is to clear the soil. Flushing as a before harvest thing does nothing to improve the bud imo. 

2 or more days of darkness also doesn't make any huge impact. At best this treatment may or may not push the last of the trichomes milky, but it isn't a vastly noticible change. 

I don't flush. I don't do the darkness thing, and I continue to feed right up to harvest, but you'll have a 100 others tell you to flush etc. There are about as many ways to grow as there are growers. Best way is to find what works for you. You are going to be doing a test to compare so you already heading in the right direction. 

Bro choose fish or grow.... Not both. You are heading for N toxicity and lockout if you continue with both. 

Bloom only gets used from week 3 of flower... Are you using it already? 

The biobizz chart assumes a flip to 12/12 with first 2 weeks on chart equal first 2 weeks of preflower, and from week 3 on chart is day 14 of flower

If these are photoperiod plants, then you stick to the week 2 part of the schedule throughout veg, but choose one of the veg nutes not both. 

Then from the start of your 3rd week of flower.. Day 14, then you start with bloom.. 

The chart also doesn't stop with the veg nutes, while I personally drop them from the start of the 6th or 7th week

Welcome back man! You've also been missed. 

3 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

Looking really good @Totemic

It Tortoni typically a faster flowering plant or not really? How long on average until they'd be ready for harvest?

 

I know the different phenos may make it a bit difficult to say, but what average have your noticed? 9 to 10 weeks?

I'm going to be pushing these to 63-70 days, but some may want 77 days. 

Just now, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

I cannot wait to pop my Tortoni seeds!!!!!! 

as they are F1 should I expect different phenos?

Yes but because they are polyhybrid F1. While plant structure may be uniform, you can expect different dominance in the floral structure and terpene profiles. 

Day 49

Buds really starting to fatten up now.

6 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

So you do not PH your feed with BioBizz?

 

In coco, one certainly wants to adjust PH and there is nothing to buffer the PH unlike in most soil - but you know this already.

What makes life easier for me in terms of adjusting PH is my automatic watering system and when I mix nutes, it is in larger quantities and then the full quantity of nutes gets PH'd and lasts a few days before I need to do it again.

Does not take particularly long to adjust the PH, but it is an extra step. About an extra 60 seconds to adjust the PH. If adding silicone though, it can throw things out of whack a bit but just requires a bit more PH down.

 

When I was growing organically, I ended up with PH lockout and had to start adjusting the PH of my nute mixtures. So for me, I have kinda been doing it regardless of whether its organic or not.

 

I have said it before in other threads, for the average home grower who does indoor grows. I do not see much benefit in growing with organic nutes and in soil. I know it is the most popular way for the average home grower, but I do feel marketing is partly to blame for this.

I won't be going back to organics anytime soon, not for my indoor plants and currently I do not grow outdoors.

I do not even own a pH pen anymore, and I haven't checked my pH ever using organics.

A properly buffered medium works in synergy with the microbes to regulate pH

2 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

Perhaps this is a good opportunities for some home growers to scrap the organics and move over to the dark side with some fully synthetic nutes 

[img]https://media.tenor.com/images/baea008308afbe96e60c0c05e79ca217/tenor.gif[/img]

The only issue I have with going with salts is the need to adjust pH all the time. I started growing in coco using salts.. Results were good, bigger buds than organics for sure, but the mission that is pH adjusting has me stuck on a mainly organic approach. 

11 hours ago, Stinger96 said:

This is so awesome of you dude... This is expensive info at the moment.. Big Up bud.. I think all that benefit from this should make a purchase of Totemic's Ginetics..

You'd be surprised how many people use these products in combination already. It's just easier to weigh out dosages for 1000l than to try and measure micro doses for a 10l watering can. 

@Gloriosa superba Yeah I've had my fair share of DAFF. The hoops and red tape and waiting is ridiculous.  That's why I'd rather just run diy again until hopefully biobizz comes back. 

So for many years I've been growing in soil and using mixes and matches of nutrients experimenting with good results. Decided a year ago to give biobizz a go and been doing well with the range. 

Last week though, the sobering reality that Biobizz, the bloom specifically is sold out and fast selling out across the country. What a bummer... There are issues at DAFF and the re-registration is causing an import delay I guess. 

This puts me back where I'm going to be using a blend of products again once I run out of Biobizz. 

With so many that are going to be facing the same issues I thought I'd share the blend here so you can also mix your own should you want to. 

But first... All the disclaimers 

This is not an all organic fertilizer blend. The bulk of the phosphates and potassium are derived from MKP. (I know all the strictly vegan okes are screaming now... I don't have time to ferment bones and fruits etc... P is P, and K is K to me, and using MKP in very low doses works in organics.) 

This is a blend of already registered and readily available products. It's going to set you back about R400, and will last a long time. 

There is nothing special about this blend. I have literally taken each of the suppliers recommended dosages for 1000l, and combined them with 830ml distilled water. So this 1l treats 1000l water, or 1ml/1l.

What you need: 

20ml Amino mix

40ml Elixer humates

40ml Elixer fulvates

40ml Sea Rock

30g MKP

830ml Distilled water

All of the above blends to a dark liquid, with no precipitation reactions, and provides roughly (based on supplier supplied data) 

0.3g/kg N

10.7g/kg P

10g/kg K

Plus the aminos, humates, fulvates, hormones and other micros.

I have used this blend in conjunction with any fish hydrolysate and mollasses with great results.

Edit:

After recently getting feedback from a grower who measures his input EC to his organics, found his EC reading was lower than usual so he bumped up the EC using only the bloom blend. That quite simply locked his plants up. 

This bloom blend does not work on its own. You have to use a fish hydrolysate and mollases. This blend being partly salts, is meant to be used as follows:

1ml fish hydrolysate, 1ml molasses, and 1ml of this bloom blend per 1l of water, with every watering. 

It's a matter of constant micro fertigation to sustain a healthy plant.... Being over eager and over feeding does not mean a yield increase. 

17 hours ago, John Stonedwell said:

Thanx for sharing some of your grow techniques 

Plants look amazing and very excited to pop your Palomino and Tortoni fems in a couple of weeks 

The way I grow has evolved around my breeding. The idea of breeding in a controlled environment, consistancy in every input is key to replicate expression. 

So considering all, I split the plants life cycle into a rule of 3.

0-3 weeks - Embryo to seedling

3-6 weeks - Early veg, plant is focused on root development.

6-9 weeks - Veg, Plant has reached sexual maturity and is building on itself.

Flip to 12/12

9-12 weeks - Preflower. Florigen hormone level drive the plant into flowering.

12-15 weeks - Peak Flowering. In this time the plant is going to produce all the floral mass it can in an attempt to get pollinated. (Now you can push plants past this and get more yield, but you are altering the bud shape as fox tails, top bulging etc.)

15-18 weeks - Ripening phase. Any pollination in this time is unlikely to produce viable seed, as the plant has reached its peak and the last of the calyxes start to swell. 

18-21 weeks - Harvest window. Short flowering varieties will be ready with milky trichomes at 18, longer flowering at 21.

Here are some macro shots of the tent. I'm happy with the variation in phenos. Im seeing and smelling, chocolope, gelato 33, and slurricane dominance in one tent.