Twix Aphen

The other 7 Watt bulb is keeping the boys happy in the cupboard. @GGG hello buddy, I hope you are well. these 2 are the great white Sharks and they're just about to start shedding pollen. 

Hey @Stefan, if you can manipulate the photoperiod then it will help you to get closer to your aim. You would need to get a black tarp to block out the light and then open & close it every day.

This week I've run out of space to veg so I hung up some more lights. I have a spare 50 W of 4000 K strips with a Ballast and dimmer switch.

I bought a pack of cool white bulbs and a light switch.

I'm also using my 6 Volt magneto torch over some clones. 

The estimate EC for Hortimix x 3, if I follow the GHE soil guide.

13 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

GHE uses Calcium EDTA

I didn't know that. I've seen it in the 1 part, Greenhouse powder feeding range, They also sell it as a seperate supliment.  I thought flora series is calcium nitrate in their Grow, MKP for bloom and Hortimix A, for the micro. 

13 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

Hortimix I am sure is normal calcium

Its greenhouse grade calcium nitrate, from Haifa. The soluble Ca is in the form of calcium oxide and it dissolved easily, the part A wasn't as easy to mix, but there's no sediment left in the bottle. 

13 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

for the price and if someone is on a budget you can get pretty good results from Hortimix

 Eskom is increasing their tariff again, so every saving helps. 

13 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

does require a bit of effort and tweaking though.

The spreadsheet from Hortishop helps to work out the ppm for different combinations. 

13 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

Making the mixes stronger and more concentrated is a must IMO

Thanks for the tip. I came across it when I searched through the old threads. B and MKP could mix to x 5 strength, but A will need more work.

veg 5-3-5 and bloom 6-2-8 is what I use for my organic ferts. Dr Bruce says that 2-1-2, from start to finish is the ideal ratio for cannabis. I tried the 5-3-5 in bloom and got the same yield, but the quality was better when feeding with higher rates of N and K. 

I think if I follow the GHE chart with the x 3 strength hortimix then I can get close to my ideal NPK.

Or, My next idea is to buy a tub of Potassium sulphate and mix it to the same strength as MKP (75 g per litre).

At week 3 give a boost of MKP and then switch to Potassium sulphate till the end of flowering. 

I tripled the strength, so now I will use 1 ml instead of 3.

Then worked out what the grams per litre for each element and the npk ratio for the diluted solutions. 

3:1:5 for veg. 3:2:7 when you begin adding MKP, in 1:1:1, along with the A/B 

R60 for a concentrated, 3 part nutrient blend. I will play around with similar ratios to the GHE Flora and crunch some more numbers.

4 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

Even 1.5m x 1.5m will allow you to reach 800g dry and in an easier manner

This area is ideal for 1000 Watt HPS. 1.2 x 1.2 is too small for that light. You can get 800 g from 600 W but you need the right variety, dialled in environment and a completely stress free grow. 

3 hours ago, highchome said:

That sounds like its worth looking at then. Thanks

Its uncomplicated and easy to follow.  I want to simplify the hortimix, so it's just as easy to use. GHE isn't specific to cannabis, it's a universal blend so there's room to tweek any of these brands to suit what we do.  

I use the spreadsheet and play around with the ratio till I find something that works well.

17 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

I'm happy to spend a bit more and use different nutes to make life easier.
I'm using GHE now and don't see myself moving away anytime soon. It's effortless, just works and oh so easy to dose.

2 or 3 bottles is easy and GHE is also more concentrated than hortimix. It lasts a long time and is good value for money. If I can mix the 5 litres hortimix into a 1 litre then it will be less hassle to work with. A B and Bloom is all I plan to use for this round.

Another guide to EC strength for hydro and soil.

https://www.dinafem.org/en/blog/how-adjust-ec-cannabis-growing/#post-comments

On 5/30/2019 at 5:16 PM, RedEye said:

So this is a table Iv been using for a couple grows which has been working with no issues for me. Note that the res used in the table is 150L, so just divide by 150 to get ml per L, then work according to your sizes res.

On 5/30/2019 at 6:14 PM, highchome said:

Thanks @RedEye, I'll use that as a starting point for mine.

Me too. Thanks @RedEye

On 5/30/2019 at 6:14 PM, highchome said:

FWIW I've converted it to excel and attached: 2019-05-30_17-21.xlsx You can customise by changing the 150L value. I'll fiddle more and upload again if I think it may be useful

Thank you very much.

On 6/11/2019 at 9:14 AM, PsyCLown said:

how do the schedules work as it has week 1 to 9, but a grow will take longer than 9 weeks

If I read it properly it's for the 12/12 period. I presume Week 1, 0.6 EC carries over from the veg schedule?

On 11/26/2020 at 10:10 AM, Totemic said:

my ratios are 1:1 on part A and B in veg, and shifts to 1:1:1(A,B,Mkp)

This is what is recommended to tunnel tomato farmers. Use eqaul amounts, through the stages of growth. Thats why the powders are weighed out in those amounts (1 : 1.5) for the stock solution. They veg on A/B and flower on A/B/C until the harvesting is done. 

Every farmer will tweak the program to optimise the results. Increased P in early flowering helps to set more blooms. Less N and more K during ripening improves the quality and flavour.

On 11/26/2020 at 10:10 AM, Totemic said:

1:2(B,mkp) ratio of part B and MKP in peak flower, moving to using only MKP in the last ripening phase

The 525 + 350 powders are measured out to make a 500 l tank with an EC of 1.4 (10 ml A and 10 ml B per litre.)

Thats a bit high for my vegging and the addition of 10 ml MKP pushes the EC to 1.7, which is way over the limit, for my blooms. I aim to feed a max of 1.4 EC, so I will adjust the amounts down from the recommendation given by Shiman.

On 11/26/2020 at 1:24 PM, CreX said:

Chuck that feeding guideline away and never consult it again

Amen to that. That chart has changed since I last used hortimix. Its designed to confuse growers like us, but their nutrient calculator spreadsheet is a brilliant tool. 

On 11/26/2020 at 1:24 PM, CreX said:

1:1:1 for veg per litre up to 350ppm/0.7EC

0.5:1:2 for flower from week 3 in flower till harvest 800ppm/1.3EC

Can you say why you add the bloom booster during veg? 1 :1 :1 is apparently for full bloom, if I read the label correctly.

On 2/24/2015 at 4:29 AM, hydroman said:

used together with potassium sulphate

I'm searching for hortimix threads to see how other people figured it out. I will be feeding it onto the soil, so use a bit less than the full hydro doses. The sheet from Hortishop is for hydro level EC and its chart has ever increasing N going right through flowering.

Another thing that stood out is that the distributors recommended choice for bloom boosting, is different to MKP. Potassium sulphate is high in K, with no P in it. 

Compare that to Hygrotech which uses lower levels of nutrient for their A/B ratio and Potassium Nitrate instead of MKP. Its even higher in K, with no P or S in it.

Kelpak v Cosmoroot. These 4 clones have got good roots by they look a bit sad now. They got neglected in the tray and haven't been fed enough, but they will do for this comparison. I think the Cosmo root will probably work better because it has more nutes, let's see what happens.

When I start flowering then I change the npk ratio from 5-3-5 over to 6-2-8. I give smaller doses and now feed twice a week, so there is a more constant supply of food available. I will continue using gypsum till week 5 and stop all feed 1 week before harvest.

The next thing I want to compare is organic v hydro fertiliser. I can feed only 3 plants for 20 weeks with a box of granules, which costs R100 at Stodels. 

I can probably feed at least 10 plants with 1 KG of these powders, which is R100 from Hortishop. I think the plants will do better with the hydro nutes, but I wouldn't be surprised if I get the predictions wrong. 

During 12/12 the plan with this hortimix is to use equal parts of A & B, but not go over 10 mls each (1.4 EC). If I use the MKP then I would drop the Part A down to 8 ml and give 2 ml as a supliment. That'll be between weeks 3-5 and then go back onto A & B, but taper it down after week 6. The final week would be just plain water. 

The next side by side will be fabric pots v plastic containers, for flowering. I know the fabric ones use more water, but I also want to see if I can get a higher yield.

After a week without feed they have begun to go light green. They've had a little flush and are looking hungry now.The chlorine v no chlorine testPotted up to 3 litre bags and put on some barley. I was given a few mites to sprinkle onto the plants, apparently they'll chow the spider mites. the next round of Hash Plant x Blueberrythis weeklast week

This week I've caused some more tip burn and clawing. It's either the salty coco, or too much Nitrogen. 

Everything has been sprayed quite heavily over the last couple of weeks. I don't increase the dosage of neem and garlic, but I increase the frequency to every 3 days, when the bugs are around. I find that a spray of fish mix (1-2 ml) helps with the bugs, but that could've also caused the problem with the burnt tips.

When things get all out of whack then I just give plain water and half a teaspoon of gypsum. I took all the raddish out and removed any rotting debris from the pots.

The big Buddha cheese girls came out for a hair cut and inspection. 3 distinct phenos and they all smell strong, when I rubbed them.

With Mycorootno mycoroot

Once they hit the top of the canes (1.2 m) I will start flowering. 

40 minutes ago, S33dFr33k said:

What about copper deficiency?

Good shout too. It could be any of the micro elements mentioned. Your soil, fish emulsion and worm juice may have been a bit strong a that stage. They are pulling out of it now and looking much better

I know what Nitrogen toxicity looks like because some of my clones are showing the claw leaves. I backed off with the feed for a week and just gave them water. 

55 minutes ago, CreX said:

And even Google is a bit scant....

I first search through Google Image and look for similar pictures.

1 hour ago, John Stonedwell said:

it will be a diversely stinky bunch at the end of the day 

It looks like it. They are growing very fast now too

8 minutes ago, CreX said:

Lol it looks like you are growing an entirely different plant with the yellow tips hehe... The rest of the plant, actually even including those leaves look healthy and happy... 

What do you think? Its the first thing that came to mind. Locked out by too much nitrogen?

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/molybdenum-deficiency-in-poinsettia

Molybdenum toxicity will also exaggerate purpling in late flower. Only tiny amounts like 1-2 ppm.

Nice selection of varieties going in here. Does the resinous one have much of a smell yet?

On 6/19/2021 at 12:35 AM, MrE said:

Thoughts on removing the lowest fan leaves in an attempt to increase airflow/encourage energy to focus on the top, or would I just be removing beneficial energy reserves and it's better the way it is?

Continually removing the lower leaves works for me. I pluck away any lower bud sites too.

On 6/20/2021 at 9:05 PM, Orcanic said:

Tap root looks weird to me - never seen it have a bulge before lol.

It looks like Popeye's bicep

58 minutes ago, highchome said:

pH balance, add ferts and then correct again 

I should've said add the pH balanced Agrisil to your ph balanced nutrient res. That article recommends adding a little diluted Agrisil to the res, wait an hour and then add a little more. Slowly introduce the pH balanced Agrisil, into your res over the course of a day.

First step, add your agrisil to the 5 litres of water.

2nd step, dilute your pH down drops and then add to the diluted Agrisil, until you get to the same pH as your res. 

Step 3, slowly add your pH adjusted Agrisil, into your pH adjusted nutrient tank. Pour in a litre, mix it and wait an hour, before adding another litre.  

Extra step, Work out how many ppms of K and Si you are adding to your res and adjust your feeding accordingly.

5 hours ago, highchome said:

Especially with coco its good to keep a consistent fert dosage. That way the plant is best adapted to take up the nutrients etc at a given pH and salt concentration. Switching between the two can work but not strictly ideal. I think if it continues to be an issue I'll try a grow without the silicon and see if its really worth the effort.
How much difference that actually makes in practice, I can't personally say. Need to experiment a bit I guess 

Try diluting the potassium sillicate, before putting it into the res.  pH balance it and then add the ferts. What a mission!

https://manicbotanix.com/silicon-in-hydroponics/

On 6/18/2021 at 7:48 AM, The_StonedTrooper said:

In that case, I'd double check the number now

You were right. The website says that the packet (150 g ) is enough for 300 litres.

On 6/18/2021 at 5:05 PM, Bay Seeds said:

Is that Rosetta Stone from Brothers Grimm?

I think it is, biltong and buds were selling the seeds and a very kind member of this forum passed it on to me.

On 6/18/2021 at 6:38 AM, Adansonia digitata said:

Cosmocel make a few sweet products. Please post your findings using the product. 

Hi there, have you used any of their stuff before? Its chemical fertilizer, but it's well buffered. I think its pointless trying mycoroot with it, because of the high phosphate content. 

I've always stuck with kelpak and aminomix for rooting. Every time I've used mycoroot it hasnt made any difference, but aminomix definitely does work wonders for promoting root growth. 

https://www.humefert.com/results/

I look at what the farmers are doing to the soil and try to adapt their methods for my own garden. My fertiliser contains 50% Carbon and the humic acid is made from potassium humate  https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potassium_humate which is high in available Carbon too.

https://inteligro.co.za/story.php?pid=262&mid=268&cid=2

"The Carbology® programme focusses on the specific phenological growth stages of the tree/plant and the activation and/or manipulation of the phenological stages with the use of specific bio-stimulants and nutrients combined in a programme. Depending on the climatic influences and orchard management, this programme will be amended and managed during the season to ensure optimal fruit load and quality at harvest. The aim is to ensure the maximum available carbohydrate availability throughout the plant’s life cycle."