Twix Aphen

14 hours ago, GGG said:

I use 2 per tote , mediums/soil stay moist at the core of it longer than the sides so I put mine length wise a 3rd from each side , that gives a almost even moist medium from my experience. I have used between 3-6 drippers per Blumat and they drip 10-15 cm from the sides . First dripper needs to be 8cm from Blumat's and the rest as you please , I try 15-20cm apart.
I'm doing a run with the Blumat soaker house now , so far not to bad .

Thanks for the tips. Can you set the carrots to maintain the dampness in the tote, so you don't have any run off?

1 hour ago, GGG said:

Blumat's in totes works well

One carrot per tote? I am going to put one plant in each tote. Do you also use the drippers?

7 minutes ago, GGG said:

Pallet would be perfect to distribute the weight , for instance two people standing next to each other weights +- 150kg so with a pallet you should be save.

If I can get 2 pallets, put a tote on each one. Do you use the blumats too? Or water by hand.

What is the active ingredient? It says on the label that it's for ornamental plants. Be careful using systemic synthetic chemicals on your indoor crop.

This one seemed to be growing normally and then pushed out 3 branches from the node.Then reverted back to 2 branches, at the next node up.

Random pics

It makes life easier and is quicker to dose with a pipette, instead of a teaspoon

@GGGthank you for the kind words and the suggestion. What about using a  pallet? 150 litres must weigh a fair bit.

I'm going to use this mix again, from last year's grow. The pots are bone dry so I gave them a good wetting and a dose of seagro. I've got a lot of old hydroton that I can mix in to lighten the load on the floor joists.

They are looking great  and making some nice tops too

On 6/24/2021 at 7:59 PM, Twix Aphen said:

This week I've caused some more tip burn and clawing. It's either the salty coco, or too much N

The clawing is going now but some tips are still affected. I don't think they liked my defoil very much and my attempt to dry out the soil was a disaster move on my part. The leaves have stayed small after the plucking and some thrips are also joining the party. 

The two biggest are the hungrier plants so I upped the dose of granules, doubled up to 2 table spoons, gave a spray of Epsom salts and put in 3 mls fishmix with the last two waterings. 

I was given some 12 V strip lights and a pair of 80 watt t-5s. I can add some light for clones with the strips and boost the veg with another 160 Watts. Or even use them on the periphery of my flowering area.

I'm prepping the room for flowering and think I might go up to 160 litre totes for th first 2 plants. My only concern is bearing the weight of soil onto the floor boards.

4 hours ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

roots will always go to most moist place, and that on a plastic pot is the very bottom, and you'll always get that slight overwater issue on the bottom,

I agree, the curling round the bottom of the pot is from over watering. Its very easy to do, I also have a heavy hand, but if the Pot is raised up and never sitting in its drain water this can help to improve things. 

Or try not watering till run off. Little and often will discourage the roots from dropping straight to the bottom. 

2 hours ago, DamDave said:

Yep. Minimal water but soil stays wet as..

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Hello Dave. If the soil stays constantly wet, with too few roots then the problem will continue, if you keep up with daily a watering routine. I would let them dry out a bit, let the roots breath and then they can start to build and fill out the pot. 

An automated watering device (blumats tropf) would help to take the guesswork out of the situation. The carrots cost about R200, I would buy one of these instead of spending more on a moisture Meter.

Weighing the pots is an excellent suggestion and I am going to start trying that out too. 

1 hour ago, John Stonedwell said:

Indoor with my 20L pots they get 1L of water every 4 to 7 days

Hello Bud, I water my 25 litre pots in a similar fashion. When I transplant into them I give roughly 300 ml per day and go up to 1 litre a day as they grow. During flowering they can take in 1.5 - 2 litres a day

If you light up that greenhouse with qb's it's going to attract a lot of attention too. I would buy the greenhouse, put the frame up inside, cover it with black/white sheeting, hang the lights and get a winter crop going. 

When the weather is warmer, put it up outside and get a spring auto grow happening. Start more auto seeds and get an early summer crop. Plant photo's for an Autumn crop and then set it up indoors again.

17 hours ago, John Stonedwell said:

What a beautiful plant and great photo as well man. I love your bonsai work with cannabis 

This diary is a great read and I always enjoy the updates on those roots too.

Charlie is looking strong, this week. Hopefully the Durban is a quick grower and she will catch up with her big sister.

1 hour ago, Stefan said:

Would a tarp still be required?

I didint read it properly first and I don't see the need for the black out if you are growing autos only. Indoor quality has got A lot to do with keeping the environment stable. It will use a lot of power to keep the greenhouse warm through the winter nights. Planting direct in the ground would keep the roots warmer. A heated soil bed would be great.

 What sort of lighting would you use in the greenhouse?

On 6/30/2021 at 10:06 PM, Weskush said:

Love the totes man.Love it!

Are those 100L totes? Raised grow beds are way expensive and this seems so practical. Thanks for the inspiration bru

It is inspiring, a raised bed would be cool to see indoors.

On 6/30/2021 at 10:51 PM, GGG said:

I went for the 160L tote , can do 2 runs with same soil also and lots of room for the roots, so they love it .

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The plants are looking superb. I've got 2 totes full of soil thats ready to use. I'm going to transplant from 25 litre pots into the totes and try those blumats too

The other 7 Watt bulb is keeping the boys happy in the cupboard. @GGG hello buddy, I hope you are well. these 2 are the great white Sharks and they're just about to start shedding pollen. 

Hey @Stefan, if you can manipulate the photoperiod then it will help you to get closer to your aim. You would need to get a black tarp to block out the light and then open & close it every day.

This week I've run out of space to veg so I hung up some more lights. I have a spare 50 W of 4000 K strips with a Ballast and dimmer switch.

I bought a pack of cool white bulbs and a light switch.

I'm also using my 6 Volt magneto torch over some clones. 

The estimate EC for Hortimix x 3, if I follow the GHE soil guide.

13 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

GHE uses Calcium EDTA

I didn't know that. I've seen it in the 1 part, Greenhouse powder feeding range, They also sell it as a seperate supliment.  I thought flora series is calcium nitrate in their Grow, MKP for bloom and Hortimix A, for the micro. 

13 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

Hortimix I am sure is normal calcium

Its greenhouse grade calcium nitrate, from Haifa. The soluble Ca is in the form of calcium oxide and it dissolved easily, the part A wasn't as easy to mix, but there's no sediment left in the bottle. 

13 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

for the price and if someone is on a budget you can get pretty good results from Hortimix

 Eskom is increasing their tariff again, so every saving helps. 

13 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

does require a bit of effort and tweaking though.

The spreadsheet from Hortishop helps to work out the ppm for different combinations. 

13 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

Making the mixes stronger and more concentrated is a must IMO

Thanks for the tip. I came across it when I searched through the old threads. B and MKP could mix to x 5 strength, but A will need more work.

veg 5-3-5 and bloom 6-2-8 is what I use for my organic ferts. Dr Bruce says that 2-1-2, from start to finish is the ideal ratio for cannabis. I tried the 5-3-5 in bloom and got the same yield, but the quality was better when feeding with higher rates of N and K. 

I think if I follow the GHE chart with the x 3 strength hortimix then I can get close to my ideal NPK.

Or, My next idea is to buy a tub of Potassium sulphate and mix it to the same strength as MKP (75 g per litre).

At week 3 give a boost of MKP and then switch to Potassium sulphate till the end of flowering. 

I tripled the strength, so now I will use 1 ml instead of 3.

Then worked out what the grams per litre for each element and the npk ratio for the diluted solutions. 

3:1:5 for veg. 3:2:7 when you begin adding MKP, in 1:1:1, along with the A/B 

R60 for a concentrated, 3 part nutrient blend. I will play around with similar ratios to the GHE Flora and crunch some more numbers.

4 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

Even 1.5m x 1.5m will allow you to reach 800g dry and in an easier manner

This area is ideal for 1000 Watt HPS. 1.2 x 1.2 is too small for that light. You can get 800 g from 600 W but you need the right variety, dialled in environment and a completely stress free grow. 

3 hours ago, highchome said:

That sounds like its worth looking at then. Thanks

Its uncomplicated and easy to follow.  I want to simplify the hortimix, so it's just as easy to use. GHE isn't specific to cannabis, it's a universal blend so there's room to tweek any of these brands to suit what we do.  

I use the spreadsheet and play around with the ratio till I find something that works well.

17 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

I'm happy to spend a bit more and use different nutes to make life easier.
I'm using GHE now and don't see myself moving away anytime soon. It's effortless, just works and oh so easy to dose.

2 or 3 bottles is easy and GHE is also more concentrated than hortimix. It lasts a long time and is good value for money. If I can mix the 5 litres hortimix into a 1 litre then it will be less hassle to work with. A B and Bloom is all I plan to use for this round.

Another guide to EC strength for hydro and soil.

https://www.dinafem.org/en/blog/how-adjust-ec-cannabis-growing/#post-comments