Twix Aphen

@ORGANinc. The secret sauce is to properly chelate the elements, before they come into contact with the roots and foliage. Alginic acid and mannitol are both chelating agents and are constituents of kelp. As you know, kelp is closely related to algae. It looks like a good product from Greenhouse, but why is it R2100 for a kg There's a few ways to improve the chelatiin, depending on your style of cultivation. Compost holds onto nutrients and the microbes cycle the nutrients. A minimum of 20 % organic matter in your medium is a great way to achieve this balance. A teaspoon of well made worm castings contains 50,000 different species of microbes. Less fertiliser is required if its assimilated into an available form and also buffered by carbon. Magnesium sulphate + fulvic acid = magnesium fulvate. A lot of sulphate compounds are approved for organic use, but they can be improved exponentially when mixed with humates. I use gypsum with my worm castings. The calcium is then synthesized into a chelated compound, called calcium humate. Calcium is responsible for delivering 7 other elements into the plant tissue. @PsyCLown I think that using these myco products is a better strategy than using toxic fungicides and pesticides. Treating the seed to prevent damping off is a wise move, in the field. Especially if the soil is marginal and needs improving. Your label says 150 g per hectare, but Indoors where the seed are planted individually, in a disease free environment then I don't think it makes much difference. The row on the left is the control, next 3 have had plant matters myco and the 3 on the right side had mycoroot. Trichoderma species are biotrophic mycoparasites, but they can turn necrotrophic. If your trichoderma turns necrotrophic, it will then kill off the harmful Fusarium, but it doesn't revert back into the biotrophic state. Once its in seek and destroy mode, your beneficials are also at risk. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycoparasitism However, in some combinations, the parasite may live during its early development as a biotroph, then kill its host and act more like destructive mycoparasites in late stages of parasitism.

Microbial enhanced nutrition delivery, is the phrase he uses and also "There's a microbe behind every mineral" I think he farms with 18,000 apple trees and produces millions of apples every season. He says our farmers in SA are leading the world, when it comes to turning around the agricultural decline and rebuilding the soil's fertility. A lot of these strategies for building up the fertility with no till, teas and inoculants are for Broadacre, pasture lands and orchards. I'm not so sure that they scale down, or are appropriate for our small garden use. There are only 2 known species of Endo mycos (glomulus) that form any relationship with weed. Do any myco products list the spores they contain? It can take up to 10 weeks for the symbiosis to establish. If there's already an abundance of soluble P in the soil, then the mycos can remain dormant, or even turn parasitic against the host species If you use trichoderma in your potting mix then it will dominate over other species. Its the most aggressive fungi in the soil and it chows up other mycos, in its wake.

@Marzcanna I like me pavlis, he isn't trying to sell anything and says it straight. Have you read his opinions on fish fertiliser? Another good website is called horticultural myths, by a lady called Linda Chalker-Scott. If you apply too much nitrate, organic, synthetic or whatever, then it burns out the carbon and you strip away the fertility of your ground. You create a feeding frenzy, boom and bust scenario. Use organic matter, compost, humic acid and fulvic acid and don't go too heavy on any fertiliser. Organic fertilizers work well with compost and OM, as do synthetic salts.

I'm ready to start feeding with the hortimix now. I will probably go for 1:1 a&b to start, then 1:1:1 a b & mkp for later flowering with a bit of extra Epsom salts added in.ghe 1 litre bloom formula can be replicated with 110 g mkp and 20 g of Epsom salt. This is the npk values when I convert the powders into liquid. I think ripen is slightly different composition, mainly mkp, with some potassium sulphate, magnesium nitrate and potassium nitrate in smaller amounts. If the label on the bottle lists the g/kg then you can also work backwards to find out the SG, w/w and w/v to get the exact proportions for each component in any fertiliser compound.

@CoolJDid you need an invite, or can you just rock up at the gate and load up the car boot? @Naughty.Psychonaut check your inbox

That's funny, my friend gave me the tops of 2 plants that were too big for his boot, He got a tour of the farm and could pick any plants he liked.

There's a fine sight. How big are the clones when they arrive and how much did they cost? My hash plant x Blueberry were originally bought from a farm, near Paarl. Apparently there's a sign at the gate saying Hemp Plants For Sale. They are the fastest and easiest plants I've got growing, also mildew/Eskom resistant too. You also don't know what it was treated with either. They could potentially be sprayed with a cocktail of poison to keep the mildew and bugs away.

Good day, I sprayed all over the surface of the coco and then let the nutes wash it through into the gutter. I did it every 3 days or so, when the lights went on, just before the irrigation cycle started. It took 10 litres to dose the whole tent (2.4 x 2.4). I think I used 3 x 50 ml bottles over the duration. Not many countries allow spinosad to be sold over the counter and in California it's on the banned list for cannabis. The efekto pamphlet only recommended a drench for lawns, to kill caterpillars. These aphids have got a waxy shield that protects them so I used the highest dosage recommend. According to Cloyd, “Root aphids may hide under the root ball thus allowing them to escape exposure to any insecticide residues. Systemic insecticides may not be effective against root aphids as insufficient (non-lethal) concentrations of the active ingredient may not accumulate in the roots where they are feeding.” I've spoken to another grower about this problem and their solution was to remove any effected plants and destroy them. Then in the remaining plants, use an aphicide that he applied once a week, until he was sure they didn't return. He used a neo nicotinoid which is something I personally think should be banned

Its winter and curfew, I'm not out and about at night time so I need a hobby Yeah thanks, happy days. They went into flower last week end. Your ones must be nearly finished by now?

@PsyCLownI think the instructions from efekto says 12 ml to 10 L for drenching lawns, I had a big problem in my pots so I went with 15 ml in 10 litres and it worked. Its a long time since I used any spinosad, I stopped caring about the fungus gnat larvae and worms, when I moved back from hydro to soil. I rotate all pesticides to avoid the bugs building any resistance and bio neem works well without causing any plant stress. Good luck , I hope you solve it soon.

Bathurst?

A new home for the babiespollenating the Pre-flowers12/12 for the big ones7 Watter is the best R15 I spent on this grow.clones need topping nowI got the hash plants green again, before flippingveg room is full againone male pulled out of flowering.

@Pants I stopped keeping mother plants a long time ago, now I'm just a serial cloner. Air pruning also works well to build equal growth from clones. You need a clone tray with big holes at the bottom and raise it up off the floor. The roots will prune themselves and you don't have to take them out the tray and cut any roots.

I got rid of worms and larvae in my Coco by mixing 1.5 ml eco insect control and alternating the drench with bio neem at 2 ml. I adjusted the pH to 6 for improved efficacy. When you use these liquids as on the soil they are absorbed by the roots and act as systemic pesticides. I rotated the drenches for 3 weeks and eliminated the issue.

You can use something with spinosad in it. Soil drenching should get rid of them.

They are looking superb. I really like the look of this bubblegum. I bet she smells wonderful

@Pants http://www.cannabase.com/cl/index.html

@Pants look at you with your 60 Watt array. They are going great underneath your lighting rig. Are the flood lights cool white too? Are you familiar with the concept of bonsai mothers?

Yes man, 3 of them together are bright enough. It's quite surprising how well they work. I did pull the cap off one lamp and am using it to flower with, but these 3 I thought it was best to keep the diffusers on for the young ones. The light gets thrown out more to the sides and spreads out more. Do you also use household bulbs to grow with?

21 Watts of cool white seems pretty sufficient. The ones directly underneath the lamps are starting to dominate the rest.i put the 6 biggest into 25 litre pots of old soil. 3 of them are potentially males so I need to watch them like a hawk when I flip 'em.the two small ones at the front are double sunset and Tortoni fems. they look really strong, especially the double sunset. she's already caught up with the previous generation of clones. They are both going into 1.5 L pots tonight.hash plant x Bluberrythe left hand side got another dose of mycoroot when I transplanted from 2.5 into 5 litre pots. Im trying to root these ones without any dome, heat mat or direct light. The humidity is between 65-75 and they haven't wilted yet. 1 x hashplant, 2 x garlic and 9 x big buddha #3. Perking up and starting to look a bit more lively. A bit of fulvic acid and 50 Watts of light is making them very happy ladies. That magneto torch wasn't strong enough, but it did a job.everything has got a bit more room to grow now. they were getting lanky when they were all squeezed in together.

Hello growmie, this is very helpful info. I put the bag over, sealed up the Ziploc, but didn't cut open the bottom of the bankie. I knew I hadn't done it right because of the condensation inside. I usually just cut off the flower and shake the pollen into a container, but a cloud of pollen flies into the air. Your method is much better, I just need to learn how to get it right.

This is a mega diary and I'm enjoying the pics. Thanks for posting them, your plants look solid.

I would like to encourage everyone to test these claims made by the manufacturers and sales teams. Don't take my results as proof of anything and to conduct your own experiments, at home. How else can we be certain that these products are up to standard? Every claim made is anecdotal, until it can be proven. I don't want to shit on mycoroot, but is it compatible with cannabis? I've run this trial several times over the years and can never see any benefit from using it. Dr Jo Dames is highly respected and she is like our version of Elaine Ingham, but I've never seen a positive response from mycoroot, on my weed. Either, the spores aren't active or these microbes don't have a relationship with cannabis. They get a lot more expensive in their liquid form. biodyne 401 did nothing positive either, so a higher price tag doesn't mean it's a better product. Neither of these labels, or websites mention the type of fungus, or the number of CFU that is supposed to be in their bottles. I think it's a combination of slick marketing and placebo effect that gets people using these products in the first place. It casts some shade over the biodynamic and organic marketing methods, if they resort to selling snake oil to make their profits. A home made worm bin, or compost pile works, it costs nothing and gives brilliant results because the microbes are fresh and still alive.

They're looking frosty and delicious. Franco's Lemon Cheese is a nice smoke, I took them down at 12 weeks when I grew it.

I'm feeding these young ones from the bottom now. It's just easier for me to put the water straight into the trays and let the plants suck it up slowly. The normal tap water rows were the two on the left. The centre row got tap water + kelp and aminomix. The 2 rows on the right were treated with de-chlorinated water.The centre row grew bigger with the additional ferts but the 2 sides are almost identical. The same root development and number of side branches. The chlorine fed plants are just as green as the others. They all stayed in the small pots for the trial, maybe a week longer than was needed but I wanted to keep everything equal. All the rows got a little bit of tip burn and I gave one spray of Epsom salts before I transplanted them.