Naughty.Psychonaut

just a short update here to keep the thread alive

changed the Grape Diamond out for a CannaHealthGenetic#21 plant, anyone familiar with them or this pheno?

plants are all on week 3 of flower. pistils everywhere. few tips burnt here and there. rest is all good. 

will post photos soon

only thing to remember when using biological control is whenever you use a chemical contact pesticide after that you kill off all predetors too. 

so it's either one or the other. 

biological control - takes a long time but is more effective in the long run if you're consistent in keeping predatory populations up. you can't just apply it once or twice and expect it to resolve all your problems. because it's living organisms the probability of first application working is very low, it's something that has to adapt to your growing environment and like I said will be more effective over the long run IF you maintain populations.

pesticides - effective as used, IPM is a weekly regime, never ends, except in flower. contact treatments don't last too long. could resolve infestations after one application, but can also be an ongoing battle

if a plant has poor BRIX% bugs will attack it no matter what you spray. 

if you doing biological control the BRIX% don't matter as much cause you bringing food for the predators. 

if theres no microscopic bugs/spores (food) for the microscopic predators they die off too so it's almost more practical to use biological control outdoors or on a farm, rather than indoors where you get month periods of no pest or disease pressure then there is no point in having a biological control in there. 

either way, nutes and pesticides have very little to nothing to do with eachother. very seldom that you will get a NB notice to not use one product with another in terms of nutes and spray applications, but that's almost never. just use cannabis specific stuff. don't spray your cannabis plants with shit made for roses  

If he was in late flower in June, let's say he was in week 10/11 of flower and he was still flowering till now, that would be a 20 - 21 week flower cycle..... that wouldn't work for any cannabis plant. 

@GuTs this person could've grown the plant for 10 months eeeeeeeeeaaaasily, nothing strange about that, but if that where the case the plant would not have looked like that back in June already.

if it was a 10month project and he only harvested now, back in June the plant shoul've still been vegging. 

you can keep mother plants in veg for multiple years, there is really no limit on time you can keep/veg a cannabis plant for. I can veg for 5 years before I flip to flower, but what we focus on here is the fact that the plant was already so late in flower 4 months ago, because as we know we can push the veg cycle any which way we want, but when it comes to flower you have that 9 - 13 week window and done. you can't push flower cycle for longer than the plant dictates. 

What made you choose synthetic nutes?

I would suggest to rather go full organic when growing under the sun.

juuuuuuuust my  

@GuTs 

If there was a gun to my head, I would also go with BnB option. If it was a open ended question I would have to answer you with another question - 

Are those package deals or something or how did it come down to only those two options?

If it was my first time growing I would not get any auto seeds. No questions about it. 

Wouldn't go for the GSR bundle either, this is why I ask if it's a package deal or...? 

Welcome! 

How did the accidental grows turn out? 

Hey bud! 

what's the peroxide for?

If you wana be sterile, just boil water, let it cool down and use that clean. Even that is over kill. 

most important is a constant 25-28°C.

Take that water fill a shot glass 2/3 and drop the seed in. If it sinks - perfect. If it floats, not to worry. Either way give it 24hrs, when you check up on it and still hasn't sunk lightly tap the floating seed with your finger tip. If it still doesn't sink, you might have a dud. Still plant it and see wat happens.

Either way don't leave your seed in the water for longer than the 24hrs otherwise you drown it. It has sucked up all the moisture it possibly can by now and because of this reason you don't want your paper towels soakes, you just want them 50% moist.

you can take a 2 plates, normal ones you eat from, clean them nicely with warm soap water, fold any white paper towel couple times and wet it with fresh cooled down - boiled water, pour off excessive water and lay your seeds ontop of the moist paper towels and place another paper towel over it and just lightly press it down. Usually no need for more water. few drops is all you need.

Take the second plate and turn it upside down ontop of the other one, to keepn it dark and closed but breathing still and keep it in a warm place like a window sill. sun light won't get inside. don't cook them anything over 30°C will not be ideal. 

If you have a modem or some kinda router in your house even a dstv or a netflix reciever thing works perfect as a little heat mat, you just simply place it ontop. 

keep track of temp, if it goes above 30 just move it.

open paper towels first time after 36hrs

@jabulanithehutt 

I know exactly what you talking about man, you pay R500 for a massive piece of plastic with a sleek design and a piece of rubbish inside that lasts only a few uses. 

this one been working for me for well over 5 years now. Not daily use, but every other day. The brand is ZenGaz, Outdoor Warehouse keeps them, you can try Cape Union Mart. Phone around the local outdoor gear shops and ask if they keep ZenGaz blowtorches before driving all the way out. Best part, everytime I see them at Outdoor Warehouse they cost R199... have been on that price since I got mine loooooong ago.

Alternative to that, before buying another R500 piece of rubbish, rather run in by the hardware shop and buy a welders torch for R299.... Just keep it on the lowest setting at all times or you gona melt the metal  

I use this one on quarts banger for dabs, 3 seconds and the whole banger is glowing  

Brulee torch will also work, but the one I see here in the local bakery shop is R800 for something half the strength of this welding torche, bit better than the china ones in the smoke shops, but still not worth R800! 

As with all things in life, these items will last much longer if taken proper care of. 

I learned with the welding torch that it forces you to shut off the gas valve to put out the flame and then put the ignition back on lock. I've noticed that everyone I see using blowtorches do this almost by habit. You use the thing, before you put it down you close the valve and lock the ignition. I see on my ZenGaz one it had the same mechanics, a valve and a lock, since I picked up on that I use my small torch the same way I would my big one, and it's been, like I said, well over 5 years now.  

Hope you get sorted quick quick!

that's good, will help balance temps.

with regards to air exchange, what does your out-take and intake look like?

@DesignatedDave 

You got one sexy setup there man, well done  

I notice you keep a lot of appliences and plugs directly in your grow space, I am sure you probably know about this and already covered all the little stray LED lights on everything. 

more important than anything when it comes to growing is not having a 100% successfull grow run and then trip over your own feet at the finish line. 

when you're in flower, especially later in flower when buds are closer to being fully formed, if you got any stray little LEDs or anything making any kinda light in the tent you will see a nanner or two.... or three..... or a lot. all it really takes is a few of them to release hundereds of millions of pollen particulates on your tent, and the fans will just help kick everything around till you have seeds or micro-seeds on all your plants.

Anyway, goodluck with the grow!!! I am very excited to see what happens here, looks like we're all in for a show  

I can't wait to see what the Zombie Kush looks like have been hearing way too much about it! 

7 hours ago, SuMi said:

I'm very proud of this white widow lol

you should be proud! that plant looks goood!! 

@SuMi do you have sufficient FAE in that grow space? If you say there is poor ventilation, a lack of fresh air may also suffocate your leaves and a proper FAE will keep your temps from getting much higher than it is outside. 

do you run your lights at night or during the day?

@SuMi with different genetics you can't really compare them this way, there's just too much nutrients present for the individuals that are reacting like this. 

when using synthetic nutes it's recommended to start in inert medium, meaning something that has 0.0 nutrients. 

I am helping a friend grow, and it's taking him some time to get around the fact that each individual plant needs different things at different times. He grew a batch of 6 plants, 2 strains - 3 clones of each. Even in his situation where he had plants cloned from the same mother who all asked for different nutrients at different times... he regularly gives the plants the blame when there is something wrong, I go over and ask why there is one plant showing claws? He sais the plant has been doing that because it's crazy and it doesn't wana stop doing it then I tell him well if you gave less N it would stop doing it, no point in calling the plant crazy He was under the imression that they all get the exact same all the time... which is wrong and where big problems come from. 

It's just that with clones the uniformity is a bit easier to achieve than with mix genetics. if it's all different strains you gotta look at all the plants as individuals and not all one thing. this will lead to toxicities and deficiencies in synthetic grows and organic grows. 

I would also suggest, choose either synthetic or organic grow. the two don't mix well together. It's a trendy new thing, but in all reality, they shouldn't be mixed. Synthetic nutes kill microbes defeating the purpose of organic nutrients that need to be broken down by microbes. Organic and salt nutrients can very easily cause root damage because organic soil holds onto salt nutrients and can build up in soil much quicker than in a coco/hydro medium where you flush out old nutes almost everytime you water the build up doesn't happen as easily cause you giving just what the plant needs and it uses most of that salts, ans in organic soil it focuses not on the nutrients, but rather what the soil does with the nutrients. if you add salts to that you slow down that process. It's just not ideal. 

I agree with Prom, flush the pots don't worry about organic stuff now, afterward stick to the synthetic nutrients, treat it like a full hydro grow.  

I would suggest full organic in future  

are they all clones from the same mom? if not, you can't expect same from each plant. 

you doing full synthetic or half synthetic half organic? 

I kinda don't know shit about synthetics lol but the canoeing on the one plant and the clawing on the other plant and as you said the light is at 25% and way high... all kinda suggests nutes then. what are the highest temps you get there? heat stress without light can also cause canoeing. 

looks like you have the same problem I have however much nutes is present, it's too much. just go clean water couple times and back to normal after you see new shoots looking normal. 

8 hours ago, Prom said:

There is ZERO need during veg for any flower food, bro.

there is P and K in both the Grow and the Fish mix... why do you think they do that?

they need it in all phases of plant life just smaller amounts at first. 

I understand the force feeding thing with some liquid organic inputs, but like I mentioned, they where lacking in all departments and the same way you give grow and focus on the sugar that keeps the microbes happy, I give P and K not only cause they looked like they needed it, but also to keep enzymes alive, because as we all know it takes a specific enzyme to break down specific compounds and they all need to be present to form a complete symbiosis. most plant enzymes are stimulated/activated strictly by K ions. phosphates are broken down by phosphatase. they all need to be present at all times to make the soil "alive".

there's also elemental blend in the soil as mentioned before, which has to break down a bunch and slowly release nutrients over time.

either way, I clearly overdid it here with the P and K, but I am sure had I not neglected all the plants for a month then try to make up for it by being heavy handed, maybe one feed less wouldn't have caused the roots to lock out N like is now. 

because of this, instead of dark green, the new growth turned bright yellow as seen in the photos, older growth stayed green turned a little darker.

looking back the amount of P and K in the grow and fish mix might have been enough, anyway we live and we learn.  

thanks for the help and inputs!

7 minutes ago, Prom said:

How can you go toxic with 1ml per liter??? Or how much bloom you chuck in?? 

lol why would you be thinking it's the 1ml of fish that made the P and K toxicity, I never said that  only cause you asked what's half dose for me with fish cause you said you go 2ml, so I said I usually go 1ml normal dose. not that this is what the plants been getting. I am however now going to be giving them half fish working up to full dose. I don't follow the nutrient schedule as you can see my plants don't need too much nutes. I haven't given any bloom either since they still vegging. 

I mix my own soil from spent FF premium classic, I add elemental blend every time. This time I also added insect frass and kelp flakes. spent the whole of August away with work shit, tents shut down plants in the sun all under a 150w flood light till midnight. not the smartest thing to do in the middle of a grow

when I got back ladies where not happy looking, so I jumped in cleaned them nicely and for about 4 waterings I gave them all 1ml of each Grow, Fish and Bloom. this is what I usually do when I see that kind of lacking. you can see my flower tent has responded well, they're also a bit dark green, so I've backed off there too, just clean water till normal grow then back to 1ml alternating. these plants are a bit younger and I am assuming the P and K in the 1ml Grow+Fish+Bloom mix was just a bit too much. 

ultimately, when mixing my own soil, I go for a -just add water- kinda soil. I only wana add nutes if I reeeaally have too. I don't want to depend on them.

1 hour ago, Prom said:

How much is half dosage? ^^ i never drop below 2ml per liter fish-mix

I usually work on 1ml per liter, so half dose for me would be 0.5ml

these ladies been on a bounce back from a P and K toxicity, so I have been giving just water for about 2 weeks, they starting to show N deficiency and I was notified a P and K toxicity can also show as N deficiency and to give Humic and Fulvic acids, I don't wana add any more P or K really so this is the reason for half dose Fish, working my way back up to full dose.

time for a little update here

everything seems good in the flower tent, don't wana wait too long before flowering these girls. will see if I can't fit a different mother in the GDs place. already got 5 GDs vegging outside for a full run later. looks like the GD reveg is gona take too long. 

little update here.

Wednesday evening I mixed 3ml of each Humic and Fulvic Acid in 4L water. Gave each plant 500ml. haven't seen any crazy reaction which sets me at ease, but I think they're ready for a half dose of Fishmix, they look to be at a stand still for now. 

a little too late already with all the yellowing, but it's time to give the poor ladies some N.  

oh yeah, that's some nice roots for only 2 weeks clone environment must be dialed in over there  

hows the smoke report on the ginger tea? 

hahah nice, going for a sea of green thing or just making a bunch? all ginger tea or mix stuff?

13 hours ago, ORGANinc. said:

I hear you bro, once you burn your fingers, it’s a never the same  

Let us see which one you got? I would just do recommended dose and seriously not be afraid of smashing it twice a week for the begining

hahah yeah too true man sometimes can really throw you off a product

here's the Humic Acid - recommended dose is 3-5ml/L during seedling - veg

https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/humic-acid 

here's the Fulvic Acid - recommended dose 2ml/L for small plants, 5ml/L for large plants and 10ml/L for trees. 

https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/fulvic-acid

because of recommendations I feel Fulvic 3ml/L, what you think? 

On 10/3/2022 at 2:30 PM, ORGANinc. said:

Ya I understand your reasoning. If you want to your total EC to go down, it would not be the best idea to feed. 
 

I refer to the plants having an appearance of lockout, and that’s due to the excess as you say, so it goes all the way up the chain, but that is hindering the uptake of the final Elements like nitrogen, resulting in the lighter colour. Arden Anderson explained the phenomenon as a final Carbon deficiency and not any particular element deficiency, as it works back up the chain. So excess induced deficiencies are annoying because they cause other deficiencies. 
 

that’s why I recommend introducing some humic and fulvic, they do well in situations where there are imbalances, interms of nutrient density, the npk if humic and fulvics are seriously minuscule. To Move ppm up 10 or 20 points with humic sand fulvic would be a physical amount I would never apply, so the amounts, the very tip of a scalpels worth. Research is vast, but the conclusions are noteworthy. 
 

very low doses frequently, and frequently is weekly. Will give best results 

However, I only consider humic and fulvic useful in these situations. Other times, the plants must encourage humic substances to form by themselves. 
 

I see I see  thanks for breaking it down for me!

what dose and of which would you suggest I give? I'll apply and hopefully I will get to understanding the product better through use also hahah I got it free and only used it maybe once or twice, but always felt too uncertain to say I know what I am doing with it.

hahahah shit oh well whoever said it, it makes sense

just note, the yellowing on new growth is not N deficiency. those are the beginning stages of excessive P and K symptoms.

or what is it that indicated N deficiency? I could be missing something, but I feel the they gona ask for N soon, because I am not giving any since I am trying to lower overall EC from the excess of other stuff. mainly also the reason for not feeding more right now. 

I wouldn't be able to get it over my heart to feed them anything now knowing how much I fed them before they started looking like this. almost 100% sure there is no deficiency right now and also how I know it's excess. The first deficiency that will show will be N, cause there's a normal amount of it right now, but because I cannot feed just N I can't feed anything at all and risk even more P and K stress. so my only alternative is clean water till the excess symptoms are a little less then slowly half dose of Fish which is N focussed. and then taking it from there.

I got both humic and fulvic acid laying around, but I feel there's not enough information out there for me to comfortably use it. Unless also just with the less is more approach. I have an understanding of the stuff but also only the limited amount information that's out there since these 2 things have not been fully studied yet. Just don't wana "add" more stuff when I am thinking about less is more and knowing very well I already over did it I just feel a step back right now is a step in the right direction.