Naughty.Psychonaut

2 hours ago, koosjr said:

Well, the big problem is I will not be able to change my light cycle to work at night when it is cool...

I simply will not have the power for that. My power is in the day when the sun is shining.

Regardless of that, I would like to see your light design that does not give off any heat.

LEDs, even the best of them is about 50% efficient - unless you can show me products where this is not the case. Shit, I have looked at many data sheets of components and there just ain't that magic one in there.

Sorry, it simply is impossible. A 1W LED will give off about 0.5W of heat minimum and if that LED is inside your room, it is room load.

I am not trying to be wiseguy here. This is just plain and simple realities of engineering. I have never come across a 100% efficient device.

As said, the fact that your hand does not feel the heat, does not mean there is not the same heat. It is just spread over a larger area.

I also see people are struggling to heat up boxes in winter - and yet a simple layer of good bubble wrap sheets around the box will probably more than half the heat one would need to keep it hot. In that case, the light alone will be enough to heat it up.

Running lights on during day is gona be a tough one. indoor growing 101, first thing you learn. big no no to run lights on during day unless you in full controle of environment. good thing you jumped on LED first instead of HID.

Well man, I just don't know what else to tell you. Out of all light style designs the bar style OUT OF ALL OTHER DESIGNS heats up least........ what are you trying to argue? I hope you're not trying to say I am wrong about that?

I am not talking about the heat coming off each single diode itself. the driver itself warms up too even more than the diodes, we haven't even touched on that, but you focussing on the intricate details of a single diode. I am talking about over all heat. you wana keep things as cool as possible, right? so why go with the design that needs external cooling????? PLUS you know heat wears on the stuff..... I really don't understand what it is you not grasping?

If you take that info and go back to your point about each single diode, would it not STILL make more sense to try and get that diode as close to running as cool as possible? 

Grouping diodes together OBVIOUSLY will cause more heat around the diodes itself. spreading them further apart will OBVIOUSLY allow them to run cooler in general.... 

You can see the light I built on my page. and read carefully, I said that I never have issues with heat and constantly in the 25-30°C range. light on or off. because it fluctuates. I also said IF the light has a 3 to 5°C impact on my given temp inside the tent, that doesn't bother me. indicating that the light can give off some heat, not absolutely no heat. It's just minimal, no need for extra cooling in my situation even though a wendy heats up a lot more than inside a house or garage. 

remember we all got temp monitors inside our grow rooms, I watch my temp closely. If there is something you don't understand cause you haven't got experience in it, that's just your level of understanding. It doesn't mean it's not true. If you don't want to understand it cause it challenges how you currently understand things then that's on you

If you know soooooo much about the way heat and electricity works together, you should also know bringing it as close to the least amount of heat coming off the appliance would be best right? (meaning things are running smoothe) And vice versa, running it as hot as possible will be worse, right? So if you have an option to run the thing cooler, why would you argue that and opt for the design that runs hotter and needs external cooling. especially for a guy running on alternative power you should be looking at these things. 

Anyway, I'm not gona try to give you any more pointers  

Goodluck bud

7 hours ago, koosjr said:

OK, so I do understand better now what you say - but you are mixing up your 3000K and 5000K again hehehehe..

hahah brother if you switching between 3000k flat and 5000k flat you not mixing at all. when the one is pumping other one is sleeping. never running both at same time. 

going with 4000k stuff you gotta add either red or blue - mixing spectrums. that's what I mean by that. cause already 4000k isn't where you wana be so you HAVE to add blue for veg to pull that 4000k closer to 5000k (mixing the stuff) and for flower you still work with same 4000k and add red to pull the 4000k closer to 3000k. and the 4000k will be running at all times and you only switch beteeen red spec and blue spec. that's early 2000's tech, it's been improved on. 

heheee bout that heat thing, we in the same book but just on a different page you say you don't wana get too technical, but that's waaaaayy more technical than it needs to be. 

Forget about the lm/w forget about all the finer detail stuff. Basically all I am saying is - the bar style layout design allows for the light to run cooler over all. Now you already got the common knowledge on how something that runs hot is wearing out faster so that's point nr.1 but you also saying you wana displace the heat from the light before it heats up the room? why not skip all that and go with a light design that doesn't heat up? saving you money in the long run (not having to replace burnt out / worn out parts) aswell as the short run (not having to run extra fans or cooling appliances of sorts) aswell as providing better light coverage and penetration for your plants? It's a win win win situation.

going with PCB is shooting yourself in the foot, people used to use these early 2000's but we have discovered new and better ways. no need for external cooling when the light doesn't heat up or give off much heat  

I got over 300w in a 1mx1m tent, bar style LED that covers the canopy with diodes from wall to wall, more than what's needed in that space, but in the right spec atleast cause I only flower in that tent so never need to accompany vegging plants under that light and I can toggle W output for early flower - late flower output increase, though I've had it on full blast during peak summer and we get 40°C days down here in the Winelands, those hot summer nights with my lights on I hit about 25 to 30°C inside the grow room and lights off during daytime keeping things dark I still sit at around 25 to 30°C inside the tent. pretty constant. my grow is in a insulated wendy house outside in my yard. never had any heat issues and I got no aircons no external cooling none of that. 

Actually thinking about running a small heater on a timer in there during the colder months, cause I am not a fan of purple weed. I don't smoke with my eyes.  

Oh wait, maybe I am not even answering you there. just rambling away!

The bar LED layout design allows for passive cooling, so you don't have to actively cool it with extra fans. With the bar layout, out of all designs, allows for the coolest running temperatures from your diodes and driver. Allowing space between strips and driver it doesn't build up or trap any heat. you can hold your hand around the strips while on, air moves around the strip freely, extrusion strip being alu it doesn't conduct heat, light spread muuuuuuuuch better allowing for closer to canopy allowing for better penetration and overall less heat, allowing for less electricity consumption cause no extra fans

To achieve optimal desired spectrum on the leaf surface for both veg and flower situations with one light is almost impossible, because they're so far apart. This is the reason people mix and match, but if you upping the Wattage and switching between spectrum, it's better not to play in the middle. Best to go full white at 5500k for veg and switch to full yellow at 3000k for flower and look at it as two seperate lights. much less technical and you don't have to worry bout adding blue and red and and and and and, cause that stuff just takes you closer to the middle again. and adding red to 3000k spectrum is over kill, my flower light is a DIY 3000k already can't see shit cause it's so yellow it looks like HPS. same with white, adding blue to the 5500k is overkill. it's only when you work around the 4000k mark that it really gets technical cause then you have to add blue and then you look at one single light as "best of both worlds" but it actually does two things half half and cause it's more technical it's easier to go wrong. 

But that's just my  

About that last bit, looking at the bigger picture, out of all lighting options, the life span of LEDs beat out all the rest, except for the centennial light bulb that's been burning for 120 years straight but yeah, so getting into why it lasts so much longer is because the output in light is so much greater than the output in heat, even from the little generic poop grade LEDs you get on your christmas lights. Samsung, with their new tech, they start pushing the limits. Some diodes give off more heat some give off less heat, but in all cases it's not a fixed output, it's always got to do with the resistance you put on it. You're an engineer, I just grow plants hahah you probably know waaay more than me about thermal resistance and that stuff? 

If you look at 2 of the exact same diodes, brand new. One running one at 100% output will wear it out quicker than that same one runming at 50% output. The reason for that is because the 100% diode is running physically hotter than the 50% one. and this is the same principle that goes for why most electrical appliances need fans on them to keep them running cool at all times to keep them from wearing out too fast. most electrical stuff got built in fans for that ot the design of the body allows for passive cooling of to some degree. The hotter a circuit runs the more resistance it has on it, the more resistance the harder the thing has to work to reach the same amount of output and eventually shortening the lifespan much quicker.

Logically, if the design or "layout" of your light causes it to heat up more the light will have a shorter life span. If you gotta run fans on it, it means it runs hot. If you gotta run more fans you pulling more W from the wall. why not build a better working design that the plants will also appreciate more PLUS save money by not having to run extra stuff plus less wear on the light 

31 minutes ago, koosjr said:

I think my first post is clear enough what I want to achieve.

Yes, I am going to have a light with both 3000K and 5000K such that either can provide the full power needed for veg and flower.

I will then have each circuit to be fully modulating - which is easy enough to do so I can go 50% of the one and 50% of the other if I want to.

It seems to save manufacturing costs, I need to limit my panel sizes to 400x100mm - not a bad length and I am still playing with ideas of how to assemble it.

I want use aluminium PCB's as it will help a lot to remove heat from the LEDS and hopefully will at least make them last better.

My thinking starts leaning towards having a dedicated plenum system for the lights where the air in/out is a separate circuit to that of the airflow for the box - so this means that almost the entire heat load of the lights can be removed from the box.

just shows you how quick my quick over was, but as soon as I read you mixing spectrums and adding uv and ir and that stuff then I knew where it's going. 

if looking at doing a duel spec, working with the 300w/1m2 rule, you gona have to put roughly 600w driver on. cause you only using half the light most of the time if I am not mistaken? you going for building 2 different lights on one panel? gona be a tough one but goodluck!!!

have you seen the LED BAR designs??? no need for extra heat management and stuff brother. You already got the PCB's? I'd advise to go with the aluminium extrustions. look for a T shape. Pack of tiny pop rivits, tiny drill bit. Build a square with bars running across. light will basically never even heat up + coverage and penetration goes waaaaay up since you have diodes all over the canopy and you can bring the light muuuuuuch closer to the canopy cause of the little heat. just all around better design. don't have to run 100% all the time + minimal heat = last almost forever with minimal power drop.

for ages and ages the techy techy dudes been teching the tech out these tech things, like a couple years ago you could find these big body LEDs with built in fans and and and all the fancy jazz, all the extra shit they didn't need cause they too focussed on the tech side, not looking at design. a lot of times, when we approach something we wish to understand better cause we don't completely understand it yet, it's always a complicated start so we tend to look at the easy answers and go "no way it could be this easy, it has to be more complicated" when actually it really is that simple. just the layout of the light design can make a moerse difference in the way the tech performs. with those old big body LEDs with built in shit you buy a light that sucks 300w from the wall, but 80 to 100 of those watts are being put out in the form of heat and another 50w goes to running the fans leaving you with about 200w of light output, then people are left scratching their heads when they throw a PAR meter and get less than what the product is advertised, just cause the design is all wrong.

lol my current setup 

If you heavy handed and don't have time to look that you do everything carefully - I'd go for the Budbox. If you someone that looks after their stuff and can make a material thing last long then the Mars will be better for you.

Budbox - Better zips, thicker and heavier material, I don't see any light leaks coming through the "almost plastic-like" inner lining of the tent walls. doors can hang open. Sturdy build. 

MarsHydro - Better bang for buck as the mylar prooves to reflect better than the white across many different light PAR tests. (Budbox need to remove that false claim) but then most complaints you hear about is light leaks from either the zips wearing out or the material flaking off from bending too much and forming creases and flaking off on those creases and also the stitching on the material itself wears out over time leaving pin hole light leaks. so with a mars to make them last longer you gotta hook in the doors each time so they not hanging or flapping (wearing out the material and the zips). also Mars is a bit cheaper, so yeah... they kinda balance eachother out in that regard.

Hi bud, hope you well. We got a inhouse LED specialist, if I may say so myself. @MrE have you seen this? 

@koosjr I did a quick over everything, but I didn't pick up on any mention bout if you gona be using the light for veg or for flower or for both? 

when buying a light this most important so you can imagine how important it is to know what you wana do with the thing before diving head first.

a duel spec light that will cover both veg and flower phases needs to be quite a bit stronger in overall wattage and you'll need to be able to switch between spectrums like turn the red on and off by itself, same with the blue and you gona have to mix spectrums to keep the plant happy through all of it's cycles. Duel spectrum lights don't really offer that. If you take a 300w driver and make it pump a duel spectrum - even if it can't switch between spectrums and just on full blast all the time - it means during veg your plant is not getting optimal PAR/PPFD readings and undesired spectrum for vegging, and same goes for flower. not technically but to make it easier to understand, then the plant will only getting 150w of good veg light and 150w of good flower light, cause you pulling that 300w in two different directions. It's more technical than that, but I am sure you get what I mean? So building a duel spec you need to get a driver that can push 600w and split that spectrum so you can toggle between veg and bloom.

basically what I am saying, it's the same as with all things in life, if you want one gadget that can do multiple things it becomes gimmicky. it will do both things at mid quality. 

much better to have, lets say 300w on full blast, but with the right spectrum in order to get an optimal veg and a optimal flower light. 

you'll be glad to find out that those added UV, added IR and all the mixing and splitting of spectrums you only need to do if you want to go for a duel spec light. which I would advise against. much more important to be able to dim the light, when it's in the right spectrum the output % becomes way more important.

Besides what we telling you, we can talk till we blue in the face, but here is a link to LED gardener, I'll drop the link to the page you need to be on right now study it thoroughly, there are even step by step guides for each build, you get optimal performance minimal mumbo jumbo. 

https://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/

Yebo, heat strips the A and leaves THC, this is why we need to decarb for edibles. 

Can't get high with the A still present, basically if you vaping or smoking THCA in any kinda way heating it up before consuming, you actually just consuming THC. 

THCA raw wont get you high unless it's heated at some point. 

Basically, the reason why you can find CBD products on the shelf of dischem, clicks and basically every second commercial store is because cannabis is being regulated to some degree. It is legal. There's some movement, it's not like we stuck in the boendoes and the government sees "only dagga". that's a crude way of looking at it, especially since we have seen a whole lot more freedom for the cannabis community. Obviously it's not 100% legal, but to say it's still 100% illegal is just as ignorant. 

Our government sees CBD and hemp (a dagga leaf lable that has CBD or hemp written on it is good enough) and everything else is still under one umbrella. If it has a dagga leaf on it that doesn't read CBD or hemp - it's illegal. 

What I mean by SA being far behind on R&D is a very broad spectrum statement, you can see it in all factors. Our whole country is a "developing" country - has been for yeeeeeeeeeeeeaars - but instead of moving forward into a developed country we are moving backwards into an underdeveloped country. our "leaders" will waste their own time on that's important to them and still miss and slip up. 

when it comes to shit that's important for the country and its people they don't give a fuuuuuuuuuugggg... they're such air heads and the fact that we're so far behind leaves space for many many many maaaaaanny loopholes. 

almost like the guys taking these big chances are taking advantage of the level of understanding from our "leaders" side.  

cat and mouse game, we're one step ahead of them, but as soon as they catch on to the fact that some people outside of government was smarter than them they throw a hissy fit and make sure they rob you 

On 5/3/2023 at 9:54 AM, trichomechaser said:

Appreciate the love guys.

Haha, didn't know that was you. But yeah man, I'm always keen to chat genetics and breeding.

That's not a bad way to start the breeding journey in my opinion. For us the first step was establishing a library of females that we really loved over the years. Some of the cuts were found over 5 years ago and have kind of been waiting for their time to shine. The biggest challenge is running through enough seeds to find the things you're looking for. I used to grow 6-8 plants a run when growing for smoke, but now that I've been focusing a bit more on breeding, I'm scaling down the pot sizes and yields and focusing on just looking through as many genetics as possible. I'm fitting around 25 plants into a small tent at this point to run through, out of those there will probably be 3-4 females that get a second run from cut before narrowing down selections.

For me, I love hunting through F1 and F2 populations, especially F2 for the recessive traits that become exposed, if you're able to look through enough plants to find them (or get lucky).

Awesome work man, I can imagine once starting to do proper pheno hunting on that level it becomes more exciting to reveal recessive traits in the F2 pool. Right now I am basically calling a "shot at luck" my phenohunt, cause I'm still working with seed packs and never had yo work through a bigger batch than 5 at a time so not really a hunt. 

A question on the plant count topic, working with such a high plant count in a small tent. My understanding is you gotta clone every pheno before flipping, how big do you grow them before cloning and how do you go about the clones? If I got 25 plants and I take 3 to 5 cuts per plant to ensure at least one of each root. That's between 75 to 125 cuts for every pheno hunt. Is this correct, or how do you go about it? 

I've got a 2 or 3 ladies I would like to knock up, was thinking of doing a BX on all of them just to get the feeling and see what I can do, but also dig through my reg pack asap for the best male and hit them all with his pollen for a OX. Just testing the waters, seeds will be distributed freely as I don't have space to dig through them all especially if it's just the "test run" and don't really want to work with the seeds. 

I still pump them at stage 6, no inverter no battaries no generator. but I am pushing my luck. If I'm home I open the tents, but keep the wendy dark, luckily the wendy breathes so RH only sky rockets with rainy naturally high RH times. though my IPM i do like it's my religion, I skip church, use the hour to spray my whoooooole garden, tents and outdoors even ornamental stuff, literally everything on my property gets sprayed, helps a ton with PM and pest pressure. 

light cycle.... whole different topic. but the results show in my plants. 

also helps that I have 1mx1m tents that can stand open and passively let RH out, where as with bigger tents you'll have to run a fan somehow.

anything more than stage 6 I think I'll just veg indoors and finish outdoors. 

SA really stuck in the early 2000's when it comes to basic R&D. I just think it's a tiny loophole, cause our "leaders" are too klip dom to know what thca is and they're too lazy to do anything out of their own to research cannabis for the bennefit of the people. they want money to go directly into their pockets so they focus on  that doesn't help anyone besides themselves.

Just now, Totemic said:

^^' only has its genetic potential'

That should be bold text

I'll fix that

So basically, what we are trying to say is, the answer to OPs question is - no nutrient. 

If the plant is healthy looking at that time don't do anything "special" like give more magnesium or anything - don't micro manage. Infact giving more of something it doesn't need can cause more harm than good. Some people can't tell if a plant is stunted, but in fact, the reason why there's such a false belief around hydroponic cycle being much faster than organic cycle, is because the majority of organic growers stunt their plants by over feeding it or micro micro managing it or their soil composition is completely wrong to begin with. Always thinking adding stuff is gona increase something in the plant, while the plant only has it's genetic potential and to reach the best of it's potential is to keep it healthy at all times. 

No funny business. We have all learned what we know somewhere else and like mentioned before, there is a BIG misconception in this industry and how people approach growing most plants. And it'a because of the marketing around nutrients. "Buy this to do that, apply that to do this" has made people look at a plant a little backwards. 

the less you have to top dress the better "well rounded" the soil was to begin with. 

a healthy plant makes the best seeds. not a certain amendment given at a certain time. going with the notion of "it takes this or that to make better seeds" may cause more harm than good, cause the plant might not need it at all. 

just focus on getting the soil well rounded. and that's what is meant by focusing on actual soil science. 

people look at the plant and say "the plant needs this", "the plant needs that", but what they should be looking at is the soil and they should be saying "the soil needs this" or "the soil needs that". 

40 minutes ago, ORGANinc. said:

Very nice build man! Should last you a good long time. Does the humidity drop during the day heavily?

Not really all that much, I think it's the placement. Our yard is on a slight slant and that's the lowest corner of the yard so the soil stays moist and the area is naturally humid, also got the house built in the corner there with 2 walls next to it and the house is about a meter away from it, you can kinda see it in the second photo, building with the beams on is the house. So it's a "dank" corner hahah never gets hit with sun all around, but when I do get low humidity in there it's still 3 to 5% higher than outside of it and the cacti want low humidity. Still in the 20% range in there, though. Colder, slower, higher humidity months I pump that big metal fan.  

The water pipes run along the roof, the deep corener side got a little fern collection, got misters on a timer so if I need to raise humidity I can, but I never need to. 

That's one sexy hothouse  

As with most things I do, I DIY mine, she's about 5 years old now. 

UV protected polyprop, will last forever as most poly materials turn yellow and change the light filtration or gets brittle with age. 

I don't grow weed in mine, I keep my sacred rare cacti collection in there  

Notice the roof, probably the biggest factor to keeping it cool in summer. 

Structure is stainless steel industrial wire channels, the tables are the same material but wiring brackets they use in factories. 

"You" as in the general sense of the word, not anyone in particular, but everyone, myself included.

11 hours ago, Totemic said:

Can't believe Calcium sulphate aka gypsum didn't even make it in here... 

Calcium sulphate is a more beneficial calcium source being paired with a sulphate vs the carbonate as in eggshells

It is practically pH neutral(slightly over 7), where the calcium carbonate can potentially push the pH up to 10.

Plus its super abundant and really cheap. Last price I got was R400/ton or 40c a kg... 

Gypsum has been my go to calcium source in my soils. 

Theres no information that can help @LitItGrown he already knows everything, he's just "experimenting" with the wrong stuff bringing up CaSO4 wouldn't even have helped at all. 

The question OP asked - what nutes it takes to make seeds? - was already answered long before that guy came with his egg shell shit. So the discussion was more based around how and why his suggestion was not the best one and that there are many better options to go with. 

Then even goes on to tell me I must go check my facts then he goes on to compare egg shells to kryptonite out of the blue like we're at 3rd grade recess.  

I honestly can't take how people positively affirm everyone for everything they say just to spare some feelings. This is a growing forum, people come here to learn. If I knew a little and came across this forum and read kak like put egg shells to make better seeds then I run for the hills, cause clearly it's a forum that then supports bullshit fake information and doesn't check its members or doesn't allow for any actual growing. And I mean in life too. If we wana learn and grow in life we need to know how to put our feelings aside. In 2023 if you want people to pussy foot around you and not be constructive at all, if you need an echo chamber of people around you to tell you everything you say is right, then you'll never grow. In any kinda way. 

You need to be positive to see the positivety in what I just said and use it constructively. If you think what I just said is negative it's cause you're already thinking negatively. 

16 hours ago, Bos said:

And KNF wasn't even mentioned... 

Hahah I alluded to it here...

On 5/6/2023 at 5:07 AM, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

If you can build a soil the right way wouldn't need any nutrients anyway. Just clean water. First you gotta know a little something about living soil, but for people still buying cheap generic potting soil most of the information on that topic will go right over their heads.

just didn't wana complicate things for the guy too much.  

@LitItGrown

Ok, first, if you can state something "factually", then so can I. You are not above anyone and neither are your opinions. I also then merely stated a fact and I'll do it again - it takes longer for the egg shell to break down and it takes longer to become available to the plant even if powdered. I never said it doesn't work at all, I said the approach people take is wrong, because of where they get this information and how it's presented (half assed information coming from cocky people who think they know way more than they actually do - the same way your one liner hit) best place for egg shells is your compost heap or worm bin. and that's a fact. 

If you wana be smart, the smartest thing you could have said then was "oh, I didn't know that, thanks for the tip" but nooooooooo, you had to do this whole whatever thing trying to save your feelings.

One thing you'll learn about me is I don't positively affirm everything to try and spare peoples feelings. It's tough love or nothing. I say shit the way it is. 

Second, you just opened a whole new box of frogs that I sadly wont be able to deal with. You have been wrong about a lot, but that load of you just layed out there is just.... I don't even know what to say dude... You clearly know way too much for there to be any room for any personal growth. 

I guess all I can say to you is - If you're doing it then you're doing it, goodluck with that some people have money to spend on school fees and never learn, the rest of us wana graduate at some point.

Sorry for trying to help you dude. I wont waste my time like that again. 

Grape Diamonds - Ethos Genetics, taking her time, slowed down a bit by excessive K she seems a bit more sensetive than the rest. 

Platinum Silk - Inhouse Genetics, throwing a polyploidy  

Garlic Sherbet - Inhouse Genetics  

Peanutbutter Breath - Thugpug Genetics  

6 hours ago, LitItGrown said:

Eggshell powder is typically made by sterilizing and drying eggshells and then grinding them into a fine powder. It is a commercial product widely available in health food stores and online. Eggshell powder is often used as a calcium supplement, and it can also be added to foods and beverages as a natural source of calcium.

Powdered eggshells, on the other hand, are simply eggshells that have been ground into a powder. This can be done using a mortar and pestle or a food processor. Powdered eggshells are often used in gardening as a natural source of calcium for plants, and they can also be added to animal feed as a calcium supplement.

The main difference between eggshell powder and powdered eggshells is the degree of processing. Eggshell powder is typically made using a sterilization process that removes any potential contaminants, whereas powdered eggshells may not be sterilized. Additionally, eggshell powder may contain other minerals and nutrients in addition to calcium carbonate, depending on the manufacturer.

Eggshell powder and powdered eggshells are good sources of calcium carbonate, but eggshell powder is a commercial product that has been processed and may contain additional nutrients, while powdered eggshells are simply ground-up eggshells and are typically used in gardening or animal feed.

As a general rule of thumb maintain a calcium to magnesium ratio of approximately 3:1 during the flowering stage, and it is recommended to provide between 100-200ppm of calcium to the plants in the flowering stage.
200ppm: 200mg/L x 25 L (Soil pot)= 5,000 mg or 5 grams of calcium per week - "while one teaspoon of powdered eggshells contains about 750-900mg of calcium" so, 5 grams / 0.75 grams per teaspoon = 6.67 teaspoons of eggshell powder per week. 

IN EFFECT - mystic ORGANinc. Eggshell powder has 50-100mg more calcium than powdered eggshells.

HOWEVER - as a fellow mystic, Naughty.Psychonaut pointed out that it would take time to be available in the soil, so if we say 5 weeks prior to flowering, we can sort-off use the terms months without the "s" - So if you are growing photos, you can add them a month or as "late" as 3 weeks prior to flipping.

IT IS IMPORTANT to note that the actual calcium requirements may vary depending on the specific nutrient regimen being used and the growth stage of the plant, so it is always best to monitor the plants closely and adjust the nutrient levels as needed.

Peace

 

Holy shit I mean you're not wrong about everything in there, but again so much additional information that has more impact on what you said before. 1st point - The Ca content from egg shell to egg shell will differ from chicken to chicken, from bird to bird, from species to species, because it's a natural thing, it's not made on a mamufacturers production line, they're not identical. Like with every other natural occuring thing. Powdering egg shell will leave you with a mix count of different stuff each and every time, cause of that very fact. an egg shell is not pure Ca carbonate, I think we all know that much? You seen a hard chicken egg shell and a thinner one? This is based on the chickens diet and the content of Ca carbonate will differ in both. Where ever you go for your info, don't go there anymore.

Brother, all you need to know right now is we are here to help you just gotta be open to it.  

few tips for ya - 

I see you using some cheap generic commercial potting soil there with the wrong composition for cannabis plants? Crazy amount of bark I see there, cannabis plants do not appreciate barky soil. Not at all. Also no cannabis specific feeds I see there, just cheap generic commercial nutrients. Same stuff we all used to use before we knew much about growing cannabis. Why would you use that soil if you know so much about soil? If you can build a soil the right way wouldn't need any nutrients anyway. Just clean water. First you gotta know a little something about living soil, but for people still buying cheap generic potting soil most of the information on that topic will go right over their heads.

I build my own soil, because I have been doing this long enough to know generic potting soil shouldn't even make it onto my property. My ladies drinking only clean water, no need for bottled nutrients, cause I know what I am doing. 

I see you also using white pots? How many people you see using white pots? You know about rule#1 - roots want blackout darkness. obviously. (under the ground is black out, no light gets there) if you can see the level of the soil line through the side of the pot then your roots don't like that pot. generally if we know what we doing we steer clear of white pots, cause such a little thing can make a big impact, but you knew that right? 

I see you also just bought a LED light with a design from the early 2000's? You could have gotten something of muuuuuuuuch better quality in output and design for a better price, had you just asked us. I built my own LED, go have a look on my page. You really could do with some guidance, you just gotta realise it first. Don't just go right off the bat thinking you're here to teach us, you're clearly not that guy.

Like the old saying goes - the more you learn the less you know - that's cause the more you learn the more you get to know how much you didn't know before and how much there still is to get to know. the vastness of information dictates you can be wrong a million times, but you can be right only a few times. that leaves us with just saying stuff to say stuff you probably going to be wrong. 

have a lekker weekend

Sounds like a recipe for disaster. People who learn from one liners don't learn much. 

8 minutes ago, LitItGrown said:

Me neither, and I never said you were wrong, maybe off, but not wrong, I simply stood by my point, and simply because you feel it's misinformation that I only drop a one-liner of fact and start ranting on me, why not just answer the dude's question? - which was regarding nutes for seed development, upon which I merely stated that seed production uses more magnesium etc. But thanks, you made my day dude now I can tick off "argue over eggshells" off my bucket list  Oh and "If you know all the extra steps you didn't mention before..." cause most peeps here knows what "might make them more soluble for the soil" means, but then there are ones that don't and then I am happy to explain.   

here you go

8 hours ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

@TheLazyFisherman hope you are well brother

the best seeds come from a healthy plant. a healthy plant does not require more of a certain thing at a certain time. a healthy plant requires a well balanced and maintained life cycle. 

when doing things the right way you will only need clean water from begin to end. if you're using nutrients it's cause your soil is lacking and unbalanced.

(not gona touch on growing with synthetics cause I don't mess with that, you start with 0 and work from there, in which case you will have to adjust your regime)

Keeping things organic, when a female plant makes seed you get a bit of a lack on the resin production side, female cannabis plants "instinctively" make the resin as a form of protection against natural pressure like the sun, bugs and animals. When they go unpollinated resin production will slightly increase to provide more protection in fear for being able to pass on their genetics. If they get pollinated they know their genetics will carry on and the plant will automatically use the energy that would have gone to the resin, now goes into making the seeds. You just gotta make sure the plant is as healthy as can be, and the rest will fall in place by itself.

It's not exactly the "one specific nutrient" to make better seeds situation. that's some stuff you hear people say at the grow shop. - the absolute worst place to get growing advice. 

the best seeds comes from a healthy plant. and to get a healthy plant takes almost the exact same every time - a well balanced regime, not X nute more during certain times. 

unless you growing with salts then adjust adjust adjust is the name of your game anyway