Ill_Evan

6 hours ago, dwsterrrr said:

What if the copper colour has faded can you still reuse?

From a local grow shop: "Although the discs will last several years we suggest replace them at the start of every season. This will prevent diseases from being transferred, if present."

If you're growing indoors I rate you will be good. 

6 hours ago, dwsterrrr said:

Also I've seen some people put the copper sheet into the pot and some put into the tray whats correct?

Into the tray, gold side up. 

16 minutes ago, dwsterrrr said:

Hi guys. Just a quick one can you reuse the copper root control discs. 

Is there an alternative to these?

I have reused mine at least twice. I do not know of an alternative at the moment. In fact I actually need to get more

Could be very early stages of PM, but it also looks like residue possibly from the rain if they stay outside 24/7. 

Now that's podracing! 

Nice colour on the bud. How much more flower time you gonna push for? 

7 hours ago, Weskush said:

Just curious which method is the most popular and if the two methods have an effect on taste etc in the end product, without taking the vital curing process in consideration.

I think it's mostly just cosmetic, but I hear you on the rotating to prevent flat spots. I would find it to be a bit of a mission so I personally wouldn't do it just for that reason 

7 hours ago, Weskush said:

Was thinking of hanging whole plants to dry after trimming all fan and non sugar leaves but this poses a very real risk of mold infestation.

This is currently my go-to method. Also keeps the sugar trim nice and tidy too for more quality extracts. 

I own and have used racks/nets, but at the moment I prefer hang drying. 

I will use the racks/nets if I have to dry more than say one tent at a time. If it's just one tent at a time I just hang the harvest in the same tent. 

I find that when using the racks/nets you can sometimes come out with slightly compressed/flat buds due to gravity pushing down on the sides of the nugs whereas that phenomenon does not happen when hanging the plant upside-down to dry. 

I see you use Shopify. If you have the patience and time, I would suggest working so long on creating a Wordpress website using the Woocommerce app via CPanel. You can do all this through domains.co.za, or if you already have the domain you should be able to use CPanel depending on the package you have. 

My expenses for running a site went from R1000+ a month to just under R100 a month. It can be a real life safer long term. 

Otherwise it's a working site, I like the default dark theme. Everything is pretty much available on the landing page. 

I would maybe suggest putting a page for a basic T&C for using the site, you can find a template online. Also maybe on the same page display your basic shipping conditions and where you are willing to ship to. 

Absolute fire, great job! 

Now that is awesome!

9 hours ago, West Coast Vaper said:

Due to having to explain myself to total fucknuts on social platforms because they know more about arrangements and the genetics than I have with the breeders.

It comes with the territory I suppose. Keep the passion up and keep doing the diaries. Maybe even try out reports where instead of posting regular updates you collect all your pics and info during the grow then slut one big report at the end with a smoke report. 

Looks pretty good to me. I do understand your desire to push the standard though, respect 

Man on a mission! 

11 minutes ago, Prom said:

There is hardy anything to add... the generic pH solution you used was most likely chemical... what sets all you used to chemical and kills your micro organisms. With FF stick to biological fertilizer parts only and skip any pH tests. Or go Coco/Hydro and stick to salts and chemicals only and use generic pH to get it in the right region. BioBizz still costs a bit and one drop of chemical pH down will render the biological advantage obsolete. 

This is why I suggested maybe finishing the grow as is. I don't know how well it will go trying to reestablish the soil microbiology midway through veg. If I was truly desperate I'd clone what I can and start fresh, I've been forced to do it before. 

I stand by my original suggestion of finishing up the current grow as is with the salt nutes and then making fresh changes for the upcoming grow. 

8 minutes ago, PippinTook said:

@Totemic@Ill_Evan

Damn, always surprises me how little I actually know about growing cannabis.

Are you guys basically saying that there are nutrients already in the soil which are being taken up by the plants along with the salt nutrients and this is causing a nutrient toxicity?
I'm pretty strapped for cash at the moment, and switching them over to coco isn't an option (they're already established in the soil). Are brand new, organic nutrients absolutely necessary or can I just tone down the amount of salt nutrients I'm using until I can afford organic nutes? Let's say a 20% dilution? 
Could you perhaps drop me a brand of tried and tested organic nutes that I can go do my own research on? To me it sounds like organic nutes are the right way to go so I might just bite the bullet.

What confuses me as well is that there is a recommended dilution ratio for Soil on the side of the Tera Aquatica nute bottles.
 

I wouldn't change anything on this grow. You have mentioned you've done three grows already so I would just finish up the current one and make changes on the next. Don't lower your salt feed, I don't think that's necessary. There's a chance the salt nutrients have already disrupted the microbiology within the soil already to the point that your plants are only feeding off the salt nutrients. 

I think you will quickly find that switching to coco will be much, much more affordable than switching to liquid organic nutrients. 

11 minutes ago, PippinTook said:

Yes they are 4 Blue Dream photoperiod plants. By Atlas Seeds I believe.

It could be an expression of that specific strain. I do note that you are using what is considered an "organic soil" but also using salt nutrients. In my opinion there could be a bunch of stuff in that soil that doesn't end up getting used because your plants will most likely just use the salt nutes you provide. 

I see @Totemic ninja'd me on that note 

Is it the same strain?

That plant looks incredibly stressed which is deforming the bud. I'm not seeing anything deficiency wise. I'd even say that whatever food regime/soil currently being used is good. 

I've only ever had one strain curl up and grow leaves on the bud like that, and it was certainly genetics related and as a result of too much stress/training. Some strains are just better at handling themselves than others. 

So I would say something is stressing that plant. It's either heat or something with the roots, or both. 

Did you spray anything on the plant recently?

Hi @RegionX, do you have a picture or link to the strip lights? Some information will be required before one can determine how far those strips will get you. 

Merged with other comp thread as there seems to be interest growing there too.  

I would want at least 2g per entrant. I think I could get a good judge from that amount. So one would need to send in at least 2g x # of entrants. 

So if there are 5 bruhs playing, each bruh has to send in 10g, for example. 10 bruhs, 20g each, and so on. 

41 minutes ago, GreenGalaxyFarm said:

any case for us that insist on persevering through these grows, what are the cup details what rules would apply..yield drywieght per plant, or typical cup format by means of judging how would this work? so many questions

It would be completely up to those participating. I personally wouldn't mind a comp where all the participants are the judges and every person that enters rates all the other entrants and the scores are averaged at the end. 

The criteria can be completely subjective and reduced to a single number out of 10 per strain per entrant. Smell it, smoke it, rate it. 

I believe for an organic/soil based grow one would sprinkle diatomaceous earth on the top soil and water for a boost in silica which in turn reenforces the cell membrane within the plant cells which helps to prevent disease and strengthen the overall plant. 

When purchasing liquid silica it is recommended to apply as a foliar spray as to not disturb the microbiology within the soil. 

2 minutes ago, SkunkPharm said:

Already have my tickets to go. I unfortunately feel that the guys that won last year have an unfair advantage due to the fact that the grow with solar. So I won’t enter anything there until I have such a system.

Hopefully it doesn't become too much of a walled garden, so to speak.