Jump to content
Sacred Seeds

Fridge Flowering Cabinet

Recommended Posts

As mentioned previously I received an old fridge yesterday that someone wanted to dump.

 

It needs a good clean then I will turn it upside down so that the freezer section is on top. The top I'm going to use to put in my carbon scrubber and passive exhaust. The extractor fan will be mounted inside the flowering area (fridge area) with a passive intake at the bottom.

I have a very powerful and old Elicent Chef 500 extractor fan that was bought at Europair 15 - 20 years ago. It's a 300CFM extractor fan running at 55db. I'm expecting the noise to drop by 50% at least when the doors are closed. I'm going to download a DB meter on my android tablet then I will confirm what the reduction is like.

 

First things first! I need to give it a good clean with bleach water and then finalise my design. 8-)

Dirty_Fridge.thumb.jpg.f9c0f892fdb02ba5c1f7084a3a02c046.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest African Shaman

I'm pulling out a chair for this one too. Always wanted to do a micro grow of my own too. Good luck with this one :-clap

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I removed the light fitting, compressor and all the wiring and cut the hole for the extractor fan on the one side that separates the fridge from the freezer. I couldn't cut right through because the separator was too thick. After struggling with the jigsaw I found a sharp knife that was handy enough to cut the line straight.

Extractor_Fan_Hole1.thumb.jpg.e71af5b6402232a74ac44a1c20f2bead.jpg

Extractor_Fan_Hole.thumb.jpg.ecb4bed5902013963ca0e3b1ae557565.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Next I cut the hole for the passive air inlet at the bottom of the fridge grow box. This was a bit more difficult because the rear is harder and thicker than the separator.

Hole_in_Bottom_Inside_of_Fridge_for_Passive_inlet.thumb.jpg.b0ac68dca218c9bc15be13dd21c6137b.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I then cut the other side for the extractor fan hole and removed the rest of the foam. I left the metal pipe because I couldn't get the jigsaw to fit in the tight corner.

Extractor_Fan_Hole2.thumb.jpg.8bdc3a25a8ff917919b3d7629a45842a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now that the passive inlet hole is done, I insert a used PVC down pipe that will be shaped in a "U" to prevent light from entering the flowering box. I will be using the same passive inlet to run the wiring through. Next I must still cut the passive air exhaust hole on top where the scrubber will be.

Hole_in_Bottom_Outside_of_Fridge_for_Passive_inlet.thumb.jpg.82ecd865a5ca40710a97255291db3290.jpg

Bottom_Rear_of_Fridge_-_Passive_inlet.thumb.jpg.53e96911dfeff13ee34ff06086dcafa7.jpg

Bottom_Inside_of_Fridge_-_Passive_inlet.thumb.jpg.52b37a605bcb451b2d9963178a1a72db.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice going SSA, keen to check how this build unfolds. Put stickers on the outside upside down to give the illusion of right side up for stealth appearance. IMO :-hilarious

 

:-peace

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice going SSA, keen to check how this build unfolds. Put stickers on the outside upside down to give the illusion of right side up for stealth appearance. IMO :-hilarious

 

:-peace

Yes, that is a smart idea!:thumbups  I'm going to remove all the current stickers first then give it a good clean. It will look like an imported fridge with door opening to the left. :rastabanana

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I inserted the PVC pipe on top for my passive exhaust. I used the PVC pipe that fits on a toilet pot (that flushes down the sewerage). I must still fit the PVC bend on the exhaust pipe to prevent light from entering.

Passive_Exhaust_Rear_Top.thumb.jpg.f5802445b668a8c6e0a697a913a7d6e4.jpg

Passive_Exhaust_Rear_Top1.thumb.jpg.fe2ef5f9a9d308d8ca512455ab38a5fe.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the gutter down-pipe passive intake at the bottom which is also used as ducting for my wiring. I'm considering to add another 90 degree bend to guarantee no light leakage.

Passive_Intake_Rear_Bottom.thumb.jpg.103b0a48247003460c6a0f5debc8e25e.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So eventually I'm at a hurdle! Take note that I just flipped the picture upside down to mimic where everything will fit. So nothing is mounted. The little brown box is only there to temporary support the E40 light fitting.

 

The fridge wall is a very thin plastic. Mounting the fan and light due to its weight might tear the inside of the fridge wall panel. I cut one of the fridge shelves to the bottom width of the fan to act as support. I will then put a moerse lot of silicone at the back of the fan to seal it and hold it in place. I still have to wedge it with a small piece of wood so that the black part at the bottom of the fan fits snugly to the fridge shelf. I think that should hold the fan in place.

 

1. How do guys suggest to mount the light fitting? As its going to be quite heavy with the large CFL Bulb hanging horizontally.

2. Do you think the inlet pipe should stay vertical or should I turn it to the direction of the plants which is horizontal?

Bottom_Inside_of_Fridge_Fan_Light_Mock_Layout.thumb.jpg.87bc0ce0373c9aef5b01212702fb686e.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What if you suspended the light with those yo yo cords? or do you want it fixed?

I have a pair of those yoyo cords but I actually want it to be fixed. This will allow me to put the plants on the highest rack closest to the light and drop the plants using the rack as it grows taller.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey SSA

 

I'd make a rack fitting that slides into the original guides on the sides. That way you don't drill holes in the flimsy inner material, and you have all the adjustment you'll ever need.

 

HPS bulbs are not all that heavy.  First prize, I think, would be to construct a reflector with parallel guides, which could slide in the slots, so the whole light fitting is supported. Next best option, weld a bracket to the original wire mesh shelf, and attach the bulb to that.

 

Hope I've made sense.

 

Watching your build come along buddy!

 

I hear you but don't quite comprehend! I will already be using one shelf to move the plants from the top down as it grows. I'm using the large 150w CFL bulb which is quite heavy. I'm not going to build a reflector (yet) as the space is already very limited and it could potentially increase the heat in my cab. My plan is to mount the CFL in front of the fan, so all the heat that accumulates will be extracted immediately.

 

 

Instead of a reflector I will consider lining the "roof" above the light with Mylar to help reflect the light. I think it could still work if I mounted the CFL from the top (and not from the side) which would have more even weight distribution.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...