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Prom

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Everything posted by Prom

  1. The indoor comes rather nice.. and I like the little work there is to trim and dress at harvest ^^ Meet K ^^ and some of the clones. I run different BioBizz setup and curious if I get more yield on that tray. the white spots are wind damage.. just to explain the not green area so far happy
  2. I think Totemic mentioned it before.. balancing a closed setup is hard work and each tweak usually costs more electricity. All people I know, who used CO2, gave up around 2 years after and went to normal growing again. To much hassle to keep all perfect.
  3. When the plant leaves reach the outside of the pot, and is not the final pot, it is time to repot the plant. Very simple rule.
  4. 1 week.. she is on flush since last Friday I only see clear and milky sugar leaves don't count. But for plants getting outside on the 1 Jan.. they are in a hurry..
  5. Mhhh just let it run more. the AC clearly gets the temp down. Let it kick in before you tick over 26.. you have the 28 border, but you still jump 5-7 degree up and down several times an hour. crossing 28 is something you should avoid.. like normal tent growers should stay below 26.. rest reduces your quality already. Over 30 is the no go zone in any case. Would set the temp to kick in lower, costs more but should reduce those swings.
  6. Why is your temperature fluctuating that much before 7?
  7. Yep.. put the autos in the most sunny spot.. best on your roof if you can. 10 liter pot.. you should end with the same density as if you run a cheap light. If you are on a tight budget, learn outside.. sun is free.. at least they don't tax it yet Autos you can play around all year long.. as soon as you go indoor, your expenses are ticking and if you screw up, you only sit on those. Not that we do rocket science, but then invest the 500 bugs in some good fertilizer and you get out more.
  8. To run a light for 3 plants.. with fans for cooling and air circulation.. Eskom will take that off your wallet per month alone. The real cost is not the light, is to run it.
  9. Walking in the right direction had to harness the main to keep it up. and a macro I did from half Hight of the main cola Pics made 23 Feb
  10. Why a closed system? I would only consider it when I bring CO2 into play. As you are allowed to grow by law.. you live down wind of the sewage treatment plant or beside the garbage disposal? Or you think fresh air just sucks? Or just in the mood to try CO2? Must be a corvid related epidemic, people get so bored, they just try to entertain them self I really like your setup.. easy to vent, organized.. sexy.. so why again you have to bring CO2 into play? and as you are not having the needed micromol.. reduce to 400ppm.. not killing you, less cost, lasts longer.. same result. Just flooding the room with CO2.. will not make the monster yield.. if you fight with heat.. the temp sweet spot gets raised to 28 degrees.. but just for that all the hassle with the CO2.. not sure I would put up with it.
  11. @SoloKush as you are THAT determined.. let me tell you a short but rather important lesson in regards.. you do not look for more yield but top bud. Most in here heard about the friend down the road.. we grow on the same setup.. QBs, fertilizers, rain water.. he got the only Quantum Flux Meter i know a guy owning down here.. PsyClown might be the second soon. But.. now the more convincing part. This friend never grew indoor before.. never. On his second indoor grow he put some GSC Autos from Nirvana in and when we went testing to Futurama, the guy from Canabliss said that this is the highest ever GSC he tested.. with 18.7% potency. He isn't also the detailed, I check every parameter, guy. Light he sets with the Quantum Flux and gives fertilizer what ever his table says ^^ checks morning and evening and that is about it, no training, nothing. If a plant grows out of size.. he just cuts or dumps it outside for less hassle. So is not him doing something special, is just the light at the right distance on all stages. As said.. tell your guys.. if they want the best you can grow.. you need that tool, I am not joking here or wanna make you buy stuff. Light has a huge impact on taste and potency. Main issue.. I have zero experience with the micromol PAR needed for a CO2 setup on each plant stage.. would need some read up.
  12. @SoloKush The post before was for Dookie69... we already figured out that your room has enough light wattage You have a mission and are very determined so sitting here with a big smile. Just keep your wits together when you enter the room (bit dizzy, light tingle in your fingers, just leave and ask yourself the questions outside the room, never hesitate). And yes, please.. keep me posted
  13. The Sp250 is for 1.2x0.6 (meter ^^) 2 for a 1.2x1.2 (4x4) seems right, but not enough to justify CO2. I use between 410 and 480 watts on 1.2x1.2 (4x4), friend down the road with the Quantum Flux Meter has a 600 watt lamp on a dimmer on the same area. So 600 watts not enough either.. count 4 of those SP250 and you get to the point where CO2 makes sense to install. Just.. check your ventilation is good on those lamps. I don't know the Migro Aray 720.. but if the 720 is watts.. that is not enough for a 1.5x1.5 to run CO2 in. And again.. my personal opinion.. I am not good with CO2 and avoided to get into that mess. Enough busy with cooking climate the normal way
  14. Why not just use the frame to hang stuff and leave the rest away, if you don't wanna close anyhow. Without the disturbing sides, you have also easier access. You miss the reflector.. but when you run CO2.. light is not your issue you should have plenty.. as plenty that sunglasses become a must.
  15. Biggest I know you can buy is 6x12 ... meters hehehe
  16. your tent units are feet or meter? is one of those measurements needed to get a good picture
  17. That looks more decent and i order my curing bags from growguru.co.za, very fast, very reliable guys You will be way more happy with that unit then standing up at night to open a valve Please run a diary... very curious to see a report how often you have to water and feed... with the co2 and the light, they should consume a lot more as normal, get that into calculation too. They will need more nutrition and ask more often for water.
  18. ^^ I just posted it in another post.. I got told you run CO2 concentration between 900 and 1100 ppm Yes, I agree, bud burn mainly happens when there is not enough air flow. My LED are just warm.. and I can keep my hand on all the time.. there is no chance to burn my plants, even they touch the light. The cooler your lights, the more efficient they run.. and the less they burn anything I run my lights during night and go dark during the day. Not nice to maintain, but I can run most of the time without AC support and stay below 26 even in Summer. If they get a tick to warm, is during dark time. But AC not letting it go over 28. Winter I try to stay around 20 dead. With every fuckup we learn ^^ or should learn. Don't repeat the mistake and your next run is smoother but the little burn is also not to tragic.. plant is short stressed, just keep them praying.
  19. Open manual is fun in the beginning... like a friend, she opened a guest house here. Na, i can hose water my garden. Guess how long it took her to ask to install a automated irrigation system? You have a range to stay in, below little addon effect, above even bad for your plants growth, 900 to 1100ppm. I would let a sensor do the job and try to keep it around 1000ppm during light cycle. And think into that direction, you would go skydive with a home made parachute? if, then stay rather on the safe side, get a product people recommend for indoor growing. Turning your gas on and off by hand is as weird as turning your light cycles on and off by hand... nobody does that over longer time before you get a timer for your plug.
  20. The floor will not grow weed ^^ SoG rocks what kush you grow there? Forgot: One positive thing you get, the terpene bad border seems to go from 26 to 28C with the higher CO2 concentration.. but still ^^ over 30 is just way to much
  21. Sometimes a quick chat brings new points to think into. I got some input from the mentioned source, love Telegram hehehe You need to vent the room, you are not getting around it.. or you plan to use some kind of scuba tank and breather to work in that room (joke). Reason is simple. You shouldn't enter the room with a concentration of 600ppm of CO2 and above.. and you also shouldn't go over 1100ppm but stick over 900ppm for your light cycle, over 1100ppm it hurts more as it helps. What means.. you can't enter during light time and can only enter during dark time after venting.. or you vent during light and have to refill your CO2 ambient concentration to get the benefit back. The sensor has a rs232 interface.. if you connect it to a controller and a stepper motor, you could get it handled automatically. ^^ Was my suggestion to your regulator.. he recommends more a system made to work in combination, meter and release valve. Saver, more expensive. So directly spoken.. you walk into that room without thinking to much.. might be the last you do. The concentration you work with is lethal. Mhh.. I think I go that way when I have employees
  22. Over 30 is not good.. your terpenes suffer rather bad over 30. Your goal should be to stay under 26.. best 20 dead during flower ( is my personal opinion and experience, talking Celsius) 1040 watts and 3200 watts are 2 different pair of shoes as it not just adds the lights wattages, you need fans for that 3x2.2 area.. 2-3 50cm directional to get a circulation going and some oscillating ones to mix all up. I write a friend and check if he has some input to your CO2 meter. He has a lot more knowhow then me on that area. I just read up and decided that I have way to many other issues to solve, before I can even consider to use a CO2 setup. You let the 3x2.2 room run for a day phase and see how the AC coops with the 3200 watt lights? I am rather curious, if a 1.5kw ac can handle it, my guess would have been higher.. but I have been wrong many times before
  23. as long as you stay below 68%.. you have not much to fear. How many kwh does that system eat a month? I just saved 450 watts/h with the exchange of 4 of my inliners and made a happy happy dance
  24. hehehe ok, 10 x 320 is sexy for that space.. 3200 is in the right number area. But to hang your lights correct, the Quantum Flux Meter would help.. pity not cheap those toys. Closed environments are tricky, as you really have to get all parameters right yourself. In any case log your humidity in a full grow to check you are in the green during the heavy respiration phase (dark time) when the plants have some size. If you can keep your humidity in the right area.. with that climate control ^^ should get some serious tasty weed As the gas can kill you, always work with a backup sensor. I would install one with a reading outside the door and one when you enter. If both show the same result, you can enter. Otherwise you better check before you work in that room. You can't smell CO2.. and you need to check that your lower part is ventilated extra well, CO2 sinks to the ground as heavier as the usual air mix. So place your sensors low. If your AC can handle the heat the lights will produce, you should have no issues.. depending on your humidity log, you might need an additional dehumidifier.. or your AC will have to switch to heating, to keep the temp stable. But if you run into humidity issues, venting the humid air to the outside, take in a fresh batch and get that cooled down again, is faster. I have very bad experience with mold and closed rooms. Perhaps I am just to much burned from that side.
  25. Don't you think a carbon filter and exchanging air would be way cheaper compared to close the room 100% and use a CO2 generator? You can't even use the cool temps of the nights in that system.. as you better insolate that chamber to not have the AC go berserk during day time. Cooking climate in a single room is no easy task.. in most cases venting is easier to get rid of excess humidity. If the AC keep the temp more or less stable within the day / night cycles, yes, that can work.. but is no cheap system to run. Log your humidity and check how it behaves when you watered your plants and it switches to nigh cycle.. if your AC can compensate that.. yes, should work.. otherwise, closed room.. mold will call in a rave ^^ I made my biggest step towards better weed with gaining control over my lights.. and before I would think into a CO2 generator, my grow flat will have perfect climate control.. and I mean 1 degree fluctuation during flower max. With the South African wall constructions, at least where i live.. I might have to build something proper insolated to get that goal going without building my own private Koeberg Power station But as said before.. if @SoloKush is on a mission.. then follow the path you see in front of you trying new stuff takes the boredom out of the routine of growing. Just treat that gas with the needed respect. Rest, enjoy the trip ^^
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