Kgrows

@Dank i reckon high THC is always a crowd pleaser ! just finished my first grow on first breeding project - looking for african genetics/parents! nothing good enough yet though, thinking i should look at the dutch companies for original genetics

@greenkush look up dronabinol,(delta 9 THC) been used with ARVs for for quite a while - picked up this info recently while looking at the WHO recommendations for reclassifying cannabis, dagga couple did an article on it as well called a rose by any other name. 
https://fieldsofgreenforall.org.za/dronabinol-a-rose-by-any-other-name/

@CG420za nice! i havent really looked into AACT yet. what medium are you growing in? i've just switched from synthetic nutes to organic & i think understand most of it. any suggested reading? theres a lot floating around but looking for an organic grow bible or something along those lines

@CG420za was asking about EM but biobizz will be good as well if you dont mind?

@CG420za i'm also using em pro soil, whats your feeding schedule look like?

maybe a change in subject every month, best LST, scrog, mainline etc, best veg @ 1 month or 2, best flower & best flowering untrained etc... dont know the rules, but maybe let people enter pics from prev grows etc.

@420SA also being a new member, i'd be keen to enter as well. maybe with the new peeps from the growoffs it can revived this time? 

@greenkush i did yes, but the issue happened before i moved to soil.  @Hornygoatsweed i did flush the coco sufficiently, started at 80ppm to match my water, & buffered with calmag to 230ppm. first feed at about 1/5 of nutes. the mixture i talk about above, developed what looked like a jellyfish, almost over night, stank like sulphur etc, so there was a defs bad reaction there.

Update on this though, i made the same mixture that reacted, but didnt get any reaction this time. so i'm guessing that something in the mix had been contaminated, either the bottle i mixed it in or the measuring tools. cleaned everything in H2O2 solution

was in a cocoperl mix initially, buffered & PH @ 5.8, moved to seedling soil @6.5 as soon as i saw the burns to try eliminate all possible issues

i thought it shouldn't be an issue, have no idea what happened. they were about 2 weeks old already. I dont think that was the issue though. I'll do another mixture this afternoon & leave it for a bit to see what happens before i water again, maybe something in the water. I use carbon filtered tap water that sits at about 80ppm.

@Dank no strains in particular, maybe some south african landrace based strains?

Mixed some kelpak with biobizz fishmix for a first feed, at a very low concentration 1ml FM & 2ml kelpak in 5L water. The two seemed to react to each other, what seemed like a bacterial bloom of some sort, or something else, biological not chemical. I'm fairly new to organic growing so i dont know if this was my mistake? Need to do some reading.

Either way, i watered the ladies below with this before the reaction took place in what was left of the mix, next morning they looked fine, that afternoon, the plants were burnt, cotyledons first. Quickly removed them from their germ medium & put into seedling starter & watered with fresh ph'd water. They're growing nicely again, but have been stunted, hope i can overcome the issue in the long run.

Main question being, why did the two react? & has anyone else seen this happen?

 

@Stinger96 i would have thought so too!

@DeeJay your plants arent seedlings anymore you are in veg now, i stop calling them seedlings after the 2nd set of true leaves are out - set with 3 leaves, but if you're nervous then increase the ppm to 450 for a week then 600 until you can see new healthy growth, then increase to 800ppm, check the tips of leaves for nute burn (give it a week or so) then increase a bit more until you see the first signs of nute burn, dial it back & you should be good till flower, in flower you need to readjust, as they dont like too much Nitrogen. Are you top feeding them while their roots are still growing? Do yourself a favour & look up the Lucas method or Formula for GH flora.

You know what NPK is? so with cannabis it should be NKPMgCa - long abbreviation lol but ya its that important. if you're using the flora series you'll defs need to use calmag & asap (some nutes have the added calmag ie GH coco range). best quick fix method is to do a foliar feed at about 150ppm calmag, 150 Grow & Bloom, spray under the leaves tonight about 15 mins before lights out & keep your fan going.

i've grown nice plants with them using the lucas method - no grow only micro & bloom  @ a 1:2 ratio in veg & 1:4 ratio during flower. the plants were good but i really struggled to dial in the ppm & during flower its easy to fk up with all the nitrogen.

i've used nutriplex & i'll be honest i dont like them. but, yes increase your ppm to about 600 until they come right then increase to about 800ppm. also calmag deficiency! remember if you are using calmag, add your PPM for nutes after calmag. where about are your lights heightwise?

i'd like to see some 1:1 strains

re-potting with a diff medium may be a better solution, at some point you'll just be damaging the plant & you may be beyond that already. looks more like multiple deficiencies due to PH lockout. your microbial life is probably suffering too, if not already gone.

16 minutes ago, Pat999 said:

The hydro peroxide will burn the kak out of the plants, I try and stay away from that

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it occurs naturally, water with an extra oxygen molecule. if you make sure you're spraying just before sunrise or after sunset or just before the lights come on/ go off & stick to 3% dilution, it will not burn your plants, it reacts to proteins instead of sugars or carbs, so the only time it will burn your plants is when it oxidises at an accelerated rate, ie when in full sun.
 

22 minutes ago, Jland said:

Don't think I'll ever use it as a 'washthrough', but as a foliar for a time of need (not that there should be), sounds good!

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its mostly for root pests, fungus gnat larvae or grubs etc. hydro its very useful for drenching & increases root production by increasing oxygen as well

@Jland its an essential. H2O2 is the easiest way to treat pests & fungi during flower without compromising your bud. it kills everything except your plant. Plants love it because when it degrades it turns to H2O & O, the extra oxygen molecule is excellent for your plant. The only downside is for organic growers, when used as a wash through (ie killing fungus gnat larvae), as i said it literally kills everything, so all the microbial life dies & needs to be replaced. in hydro, you can use it to oxygenate, decontaminate, your water & de-chlorinate it if you're using tap water. 

yeah! depending on your setup, ideally you need a circulating fan (general oscillating type fan) then an extractor & input. depending on your conditions, ie if you're battling against heat, extract high & input low, & visa versa if your  battling cold

I agree with Jland, the extreme spikes will further encourage the PM. Ideally you need to keep the conditions consistent & non conducive to PM. Lemon spray is not a great idea, PM prefers a acidic environment to a basic one, rather use a baking soda solution. but neither are good during flower, same goes for the milk solution, although acidic, the proteins in milk work against the PM. If you change the PH of your leaves to 8.3, via foliar application, no fungi will grow.

Best solution is H2O2, natural & the plants love it. only time it would burn your plant is if you spray in the middle of the day - outdoor, or once your light is at full brightness indoor. the best treatment for PM is prevention. I alternate foliar feeds & H2O2 throughout the grow & switch to H2O2 only after 3 weeks of flower. I grow in a high humidity environment, but i have an extractor, an input & a circulation fan running 24hrs, with an ave RH at 70-80%, I dont get PM ever. 

"Powdery mildew is the most likely to occur when humidity levels are high (above 55%) when there is not much air ventilation happening in your grow area. It also occurs when there is overcrowding of your marijuana plants at the grow site or in the grow room. Leaves touching other leaves are more likely to spread powdery mildew to each other, making it even harder to eradicate when your setup looks like that."  ~ https://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/powdery-mildew/ 

"WPM needs moisture to thrive, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it needs water. Having a grow area with high humidity is all WPM needs to grow. This seems to be a bit problematic since young cannabis plants grow best in relatively humid environments (40% -60% RH). Luckily, high humidity usually only becomes an issue when it’s combined with the next cause (low/no airflow)." ~ https://www.growweedeasy.com/white-powdery-mildew

PM is almost definitely from humidity - but you should be able to control it with good circulation. could also be from condensation, or spraying your plants just before dark - better to spray just before lights come on like 10mins. I'm coastal, my humidity generally sits at 70%+

When you make your hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) mixture, start with a 35% or 50% concentration - get it from https://gthydro.co.za/products/273-h202-1-liter.html?search_query=hydrogen&results=1 (it must be food grade) using 50% - 60ml h2o2 to 940ml of water will give you 3% solution. anything weaker will just help the PM, anything stronger will burn your plants, again spray in the morning just before lights. your plants could have easily been helped, h2o2 & a bud wash after harvesting.

Make sure you clean your grow area thoroughly otherwise it will creep up again, air filters too

has the plant started showing sex(pistils)? strange that it hasnt started flowering yet if its an auto, you're at about 7 weeks in? u might have a photoperiod. I would run the lights at 18/6, photos need downtime. I would also raise the light a bit more, get the plant to stretch away from the pot - this will help a lot in flowering for access to both the medium & buds