CreX

1 hour ago, Martin7318 said:

I went and got a jewelers loupe. Can see them nicely now. There is definitely some amber popping up on the bud, not sugar leaves, bud itself. This is why I'm thinking it's chop time soon.

Today is day 54 in flower. Week 8. 

Biobizz schedule has flush down at week 9 and harvest at week 10 (obviously I know this is merely a guideline). I will have to try taking photos with the loupe and update here.

interesting - bud does not normally go amber before the leaves trichomes start going amber.

12 minutes ago, Khakibos said:

He is currently on week 8 if I'm not mistaken

if so, they can go a bit longer

31 minutes ago, Martin7318 said:

There doesn't seem to be much fade going on here . On 1 of the plants There have been a few leaves going yellow daily and I guessed this was because I dropped nute doses about 2 weeks ago. I thought maybe the "fade" would start during flush. Nute burn has stopped now since lowering nute doses.

check the trichomes with your phone, i was very jealous at the level of zoom you can do with your phone man hahaha.

do you know the day of flower they are in? you could probably take these to day 65 or 70, depending on what the trichomes say

46 minutes ago, Martin7318 said:

I'm rather interested in this process if you wouldn't mind sharing?

its pretty simple actually.

i take an airtight jar, large enough to fit a cup of water in it (literally the cup and the water, not a cup of waters worth of water) 

i start with hot water, seems to work fine - although i have noticed that as long as there is water, it will work, regardless of temp.

i place the cup of hot water in the center of my large jar, and then put all the bovidas into the jar, at the bottom of the large jar, around the cup of water.

it is important that you dont let the bovida get wet by the water, this will damage the 2 way breathable fabric.

and thats it - check in a week and see the condition, and if its all gooey again with no hard bits in it, its ready to go and be used again.

be careful that you dont completely forget about them either tho! - bovidas have a weight on them when you buy them, this weight goes right down when the bovida is spent, but the weight climbs back up when its hydrated again, i try stick to no more than 10-20% heavier than the standard weight.

8g bovida dries out to like 5g, i rehydrate to 10g and then reuse.

68g bovida dries out to something like 50g, and ill rehydrate it to 70-75max and reuse

1 hour ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

yebo, and on autos nogal, check hom

 

mmm, im not sure his quick mention of the method without a follow up of that specific method is really an answer to it working, maybe try it yourself and let us know?

also the Tip - take the pony out before dark period lol - this method would be for okay if you had a plant or 2 - but im not sure its worth it even then.

9 minutes ago, Prom said:

I think the activera product is their addon for coco. But that has nothing to do with calmag.

unbuffered coco leaches calcium big time... but nothing 2 weeks of adding calmag every feed wont fix, the coco WILL get full of calcium.

i use the Haifa range of nutes and i add a bit of Ca EDTA and a bit of epsom salts per feed - as well as the Haifa Duo which is Calcium and potassium. so double Ca

but its not double, its just half and half really.

looking good man!! put some of this fire on the home page for us man!

31 minutes ago, Prom said:

I agree, have a super skunk showing the same leaf coloring and is starvation. They run on 500 micromole PAR, so not light stress for sure.

It still bugs me that you gave each day calmag and ran into issues. Is this a thing with Coco?? You have to feed that much? If i would swap to coco, still using my biobizz fertilizers, what would chance on the feeding, what is a must to add for coco? Curious what the coco dudes recommend... not that i plan to swap 

you can most definitely go coco and biobizz... you would need to be adding microbes and fungi tho or else you may not get the results you are looking for... i think biobizz still requires some kind of biological assistance?

5 minutes ago, Martin7318 said:

Holy crap, that's a long time . Will the difference really be worth so much extra time?

for us home growers, we will never know lol.

the only true test would be a whole harvest (same plant for the whole test) that gets sampled at 10 days 20 days 30 days and so on.

i think i saw a study a while back that says the scent and aroma of the bud can improve if kept in a cool environment for a few months, and the bud should be fully decarbed by that point naturally so it could be good. you could even eat the bud and get high after a few months due to that natural slow decarb process

there are anecdotes about the bud being smoother, more rounded, a fuller experience 

to me, its about the same experience as drinking a 3 year old whisky, or a 25 year old whisky - they both taste very similar still, and the one wont get you drunk faster than the other - its more about the subtle nuances that the mature bud can offer you

@Ponica nice work man!! sounds like a seriously nifty controller you have there! out of interest, how much would this set one back if they were to get it built like you did?

13 hours ago, Ponica said:

Thanks for the responses. Clearly I don't know what I'm doing here

Guess this is how you learn. Once before I grew a carolina reaper the same way but from seed with great success. (Outside not in a tent)

 

I didnt check the PH, but Im very sure I followed the nutes instructions to the point. The nutrient table is quite comprehensive and give the right amounts for various growth stages.
It is the first time I'm using this brand though.

Yes the rocks are from my garden and I even had to pick some ants off the plant with tweezers.  I will keep it going to see what will happen. In the tent I also have a male plant with the hope that it will pollinate the one in the pic.

 

By the way I have no idea what type plant it is. I got the seeds from someone and simply planted them.

This is also just an experiment because I  don't know if the light I have is worthy of anything. So if the plant dies its not the end of the world. I have another one outside which is much bigger than this one so it was already stunted from the start.

 

The aim is to try an make this one surpass the healthy one outside.

 

Thanks for the advice ! Lets see what happens.

 

 

come now! dont be shy  we looooove pictures of any and all cannabis plants!! show us your outdoor lady man!  

you can play it by ear on the inside - but do yourself a favour and read up on the teas for hydro - if you dont need it and i was wrong, then atleast you gained some tips and tricks for the day you do run into trouble - it will be an easy ride to get her big and healthy again! just gotta make sure you have the correct bacteria and fungi in your res.

all the ingredients can be be bought locally - where do you reign from ? maybe we can point you to a nearby store

On 11/14/2021 at 6:16 PM, Dookie69 said:

Hi Prom, I use TA tri part, Soft water version. Freedom Farms F1. Autopot with air dome. 24/0 light in 1,5m x 1,5m tent. 720w Full spectrum Plus far red. CO2 in sealed room. This is one of 8 plants, the others are ok. This plant only has a few leaves showing this. The affected leaves are in the upper half of the plant.
Current NER is for “Growing” and I’ve just today switched to “Pre-flower”.
I have found in the past I add 1g CalMag / 10l (which is a maintenance amount) to every nutrient mix.
So I might typically mix 40l starting with Si, then it stands for an hour, then CalMag then TA then either Biodyne 401 or H2O2.

My EC is always around 1.2 to 1.6. PH ranges between 5.7 and 6.0. My tap water has very low EC, like 1.0.

I have heard that powerful LED lights can cause Cal deficiency when coupled with Coco. Not sure of the bro science behind this or the chain of events bringing this about.

if your tap water is 1.0 then you need to consider buying lower EC water or moving to RO water

my EC out the tap is 0.1

also to note - those stones you have there - are also contaminated with outside bacteria and fungi and will also cause the downfall of your hydro setup.

im not sure what hydro you are running, if its a sterile system or living system

if you did not know before, well... now you have a living system lol

looking good man! are you ready for your next selection of plants?

eish man - you wont realize it until later on - but that move is the beginning of the end for your hydro setup.

when i tried something similar in my early hydro days, taking a plant inside from outside, washed the roots and so on - i actually did exactly what you did TBH.

first thing - plant roots are very fragile and do not take well to washing, recovery will take a while

second thing, and this is the kicker - you have brought your outside bacteria and fungi, and introduced it to your res - they will multiply, and cause shit. like im not even gonna consider any other realities for your res man, it is infected and you need to make a compost tea with the right bacteria and fungi in it or you will not experience a happy plant in that bucket ever again... even deep cleaning with bleach wont help you now - only the tea can help you now. that or buy a new bucket and new everything that touched the water in your res.

thirdly - is that an auto or a photoperiod plant? if it is an auto - it will likely not survive to give you any decent bud - if it is a photo period plant, make sure its getting 18 hours of light a day.

heres a link to a tea i have made with huge success.

https://www.420sa.co.za/topic/2631-teas-teas-teas/?do=findComment&comment=29973

stick close man - i dont mind helping you through this time

i like to keep whats between the top net and the bottom net - or a max of 30cm from the top - anything lower than 30cm from the top gets shaved off.

then i let flip to flower and at week 3 i clean up again, but not so much

13 hours ago, Totemic said:

We have done one, and while it is awesome to see plants grow into trees, it is a long season and outdoors is generally unforgiving. Makes it difficult to judge. 

If we do an outdoor I'd love to see what that Chocolope NL male of @CreX added to his aurora kush

Let me get them out and do a count... I don't think I have 300 but I have a fair amount

1 hour ago, Totemic said:

I've been trying to encourage that, but if by next year someone hasn't stepped up I'll sponsor seeds again

how many seeds needed for a comp about? i have about a large amount of seeds of about 2 strains (regs) that would love to see get grown out! Its those seeds that came from the last comp where i grew, flowered, pollinated the room with the Chocolope and managed to collect quite a few seeds. if i remember correctly, there were the Grape diamonds and my Aurora kush that were pollinated - i have another strain that i might be able to suggest as well, but need to check some things first.

if no breeder steps up to play a part - i will gladly donate those seeds

14 minutes ago, 420SA said:

 I have pondered over the idea of a "Supporting Membership" with an annual fee but wouldn't want to keep any helpful info behind a paywall, but rather the membership would give access to exclusive giveaways and such from vendors etc.

The community however is still too small and it wouldn't make viable sense for giveaway sponsors I don't think.

"Yet"

the only thing that will trigger flowering response is an extended dark cycle of 8 hours and longer - Veg plants can take a beating with light cycles

42 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

So @CreX did a grow using the gas lantern lighting schedule with great success, perhaps he can share more info here.

 

What else works is to set ones timer to be always on and let Eskom dictate the dark periods for your plants.
When load shedding is suspended, change the timer onto an 18 / 6 cycle - that is what I do.

indeed i have old chap!!

it was out of necessity that i tried it - i have known about the technique for long but never needed to use it.

my Dad has a small grow as well, but the timer he has for his tent is an analogue timer which loses its time if it loses its power.

so what i did was set the timer on to 2 hours off, 4 hours on - and then repeat that 4 more times to fill up the 24 hour schedule.

the main thing with vegging, is your plants must not get more that 8 hours of continuous darkness, or it will trigger flowering responses.

with this method, even if it is a 4 hour loadshedding, it would not leave you hanging for longer than 8 hours ever .

not only does this keep your veggies lekker in loadshedding, it also keeps the pennies in your pocket as the light is only on for 16 hours in a 24 hour period, while fulfulling proper veg growth.

11 minutes ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

I'm trying to make sense if you will, of how a Litre can be anything less than a Litre,

Like saying a Kg of Sand is different to feathers, when the only thing that changes is the size, not weight. 

But soil, can be less than a Litre, but still be a L, and weight less than 1 L

What standard does one use?

there is no standard man

there are hundreds of parts to a soil mix.

What you seem to be understanding is a ford and a porche both have four wheels so why call it is different things...they are both cars right? they are obviously not in the slightest the same thing, other than similarities.

same with soil. 

if you have 1 part perlite (VERY light stuff) 1 part coco (very light material) 1 part compost (dense heavy material) thats one way to mix a SOIL

but what if you have 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coco and 1 part compost? the weight per liter will differ from brand to brand and if the soil is not mixed properly, then even from bag to bag

sjoe, an 8" extractor for a 1.2x1.2 - it has the power, but you will need to run it slow or get some passive air intakes from secret Jardin maybe.

the sucking pressure it creates can damage your tent and wear the zips out more.

1 minute ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

Some bags have more weight and yet they the same volume out, which is why ask, to understand and not be funny or with intent 

no sweat man! the more coco blends have the light coco in them, where the less coco blends with more grainy sand and compost with it, will be heavier because of the ratio of the blend.

even from bag to bag it may differ (they should have had a better mixing method to ensure a more even packaging process) but it does happen

i think im starting to get your question

you are in the process of maybe building your own product and are just asking the questions perhaps?

maybe different options? 20l at a set price, 30l, 40l and then eventually the market research will show you that the 30l option is the best seller, and then you can scrap the other options