Ill_Evan

Definitely true. In that case disregard all my measurements. The dehumidifier and tent plus ventilation might be a factor as well.

I'm aware of MiGro, clever dude. You can definitely do it that way as well.

They were like R12k easy when they first came to the country. There were a few guys that would lease them out a day at a time so guys could just calibrate their setups. I'm sure there are still a few grow shops that would do it, or at least know of someone with it.

In the pursuit of obtaining the perfect environment, the optimum vapor pressure deficit (VPD) is used in order to program your perimeters. I wouldn't worry too much about CO2 unless you're going to push your umol past 700 and do CO2 injection. You'll probably forget about the lux once it's dialed in during setup and after a few runs. I would rather have a grow room in low humidity during the entire run than I would want a room with high humidity. They say you want a humidity of 60% during veg and below 40% for flower. I have grown a full cycle with a room below 40%. I have only ever experienced bud rot and fungus issues if the environment goes above 60%. This can also happen very quickly so even if you experience a high humidity for an hour or two like during loadshedding it could cause issues. You don't want to give any latent spores in the air any reason to bloom.

Apogee makes a par meter, locally it would be something like this.

Always cheaper to build than to buy. The prices are slowly coming down and prices from Shenzhen directly are also not terrible. But definitely build it yourself if you can, Mr. Manly Engineer man If you can hook up a potentiometer and a small watt display that'd also be tops. IR in my opinion is also a bit of a gimmick such as UVA. Again, a lot of people start throwing in all these wavelengths and lose focus on the environment. Those extra chips won't do anything for a fungus outbreak or a bad pH. It's all about the umol at the end of the day. For a standard 240W QB panel you're looking at a umol of roughly the below, just as reference. Remember we want about 700 umol max during peak flower. It sounds like your lux targets should be correct. I run my boards at 30cm from the canopy at all times from the point that the plant is bigger than 30cm itself. At max per 1.2m² during peak flower I'm running about 440W. At the moment that accommodates a max of 5 plants, and I am experimenting with running 4 or 5 at the moment with different veg times and training to see what is most efficient.

Got some bud pics of the organic harvest. Radical Juice - Ripper Seeds The colour speaks for itself. It looks dangerous, and slaps like a they/them. The smell is of grapefruit. Smoke is a bit harsh, a friend said it gets them right down the windpipe, but the aftertaste is great. Definitely has that bag appeal and I could imagine a grow club selling this at a premium because of the colour. It's also dense as fuck. Zombie Bride - Ripper Seeds This is a personal favourite. I have been trying for long now to find a good wedding cake cultivar. The smell is of icing. She's not much of a looker, but my god is she a smooth and sweet smoke. This is the weed I always wanted for myself. Now that I have it, I do not look forward to getting a tolerance for it. Slightly more dense than the Radical Juice.

I apologies, I got the kelvin colours backwards. I meant the opposite, 5000k for veg, 3000k for flower. The principle though is the same, start with 5000k and then add the 3000k later in flower. You'll also be quite surprised at how little light is actually required for veg stage. For a 1.2mx1.2m tent I can easily veg with just 240W.

I saw in the other thread you probably want to go a bit bigger than just a small tent, but it sounds like you know more than just a straight-up beginner so I think you'll have success with this.

Damn I didn't even know you had to have an account to see diaries I'm not sure what the solution might be but we have had a real issue with bots and I believe this might have been one way to deter them. I'm sure @420SA will let us know what he rates.

Sounds pretty on-point to me my dude. I wish I had known how big you wanted to go before answering in your other thread My only real pointers is that more often than not it is more important to focus on environmental factors for optimal growth than it is for how much LUX your are working with. LUX is cool but most people here will use umol when deciding on light power. The standard at the moment is to achieve 700 umol at max during flowering stage. Any more than that is useless as the plant can only physically make use of 700 umol without carbon dioxide injection into the room. Some growers will find that their plants stress when running lights at maximum or that the environment gets too hot and stunts the plant. This is why I say environment is more important than lighting. Yes you need good lighting, but it isn't the only important thing when growing cannabis. Definitely right on there. UVA LEDS in my opinion are gimmicks. 3000k or 3500k full spectrum white light LEDs are all more than perfect to grow top tier bush. Interesting that you want to push 5000k during flowering. If you wanted to do that, I'd maybe suggest combining both the 3000k with the 5000k at the same time. Blue light helps keep the plant nice and short. The more red/yellow the light, the more susceptible you may be to over stretching. This will be strain specific though. The 5000k should in theory help push flowers more efficiently than the 3000k, but I still think you need some of the 3000k spectrum at the very least during pre-flower and then halfway through flower push just the 5000k. I'd personally be interested in the results. Just for reference, I have done full grows with both just the 3000k and 3500k with the same strains and in all honesty, I haven't noticed much difference in quality but the plants growing with the 3500k did stretch more during growing.

With maybe some LED lighting along the branches inside the resin

You can do it! Keep it small and simple at first. You can get about 100g per plant if done perfectly. Start with either a 0.8x0.8m tent and grow just one plant, use a 120W LED from Light It Up, organic soil such as Organics Matter, and some 250ml bottles of BioBizz Grow, FishMix and Bloom. These bottles will last you more than one grow. This is actually the exact setup I'm building for a friend who wants to get into growing. It is the least fuss method and I've personally grown some absolute fire with it. Half the time you're just watering with tap water, the other half you feed with the BioBizz. There is also method to the madness. If you start getting serious and want to expand, you can then use this setup as a veg tent to supply a bigger flower tent to start a perpetual grow. But for now the one plant method should do while you get used to growing. The hardest part is seeding/cloning but once you get past that part you're golden. Other issue might be also guaranteeing you are growing what you actually want to grow. Some members here grew what they thought were high CBD specific strains only to finally harvest and it turns out to be a standard THC strain. Make sure you get either a genuine clone of a high CBD strain or that the seeds you are getting are also genuine. I'm pretty sure a member can point you in the right direction in that regard. When you do start growing, start a grow diary here and we can all help you out.

That's really sick dude!

ZxP harvest.

Maybe ask on an American forum. We don't live in a federal government system, this is South Africa. We also don't have states, we have provinces. THCA is regulated the same way any other cannabis product is in South Africa. It is illegal to sell and trade*. (Real world results may vary.) It is legal in certain USA states because THCA is not a recognized compound according to the federal law on cannabis and this is why certain states in America may freely sell it.

I have flipped the tent and trimmed the branches in preparation for the stretch and preflower phase. I have also put the pots into the autopot trays and have activated the reservoir. I feel there is little doubt now that the roots are well established, much more so than done previously. Canopy is also looking level. I've tried my best to LST the major branches to all be on the same level. Some plants have stretched more than others already, but I think I've managed to control the most of it. From the atrocious past run this is already looking much better. I was worried big tents were just cursed. Otherwise in another tent I already have some more ZxP on the way, looking scrumptious. I have the harvest date set for 11 May. Will take some trichome pics on the day.

I wasted my 20's studying useless shit that will never get me out. I'm now dedicated to growing the almighty bush and that has sustained me for a few years now. I've considered maybe going to Thailand and growing bush there but the requirement is to have at least one national to be a 50% owner and sponsor for you and even then you're only allowed to stay in the country for only so many months at a time.

Time to get off Eskom! ...if only.

Think I've beaten the worst of the early blight. Here's hoping it doesn't make a comeback anytime soon. Just finished up some LST on the plants. I would like a flat canopy as much as possible. Some plants are showing more stretch than others so some additional attention will be required to keep everything gucci. I am still watering from the top for the meantime. I want no doubt that the roots are well established before switching to the reservoir and bottom feeding. At that point I will also activate the air pump for the airdomes in the pots.

Two tents still available.

Hypothetical. I think the system works but if I were to expand I am unsure of whether I would invest in more of them. I am becoming more and more simplistic in my train of thought; less is more kinda vibe. If the big tent with the autopots goes well again I'll setup some more autopots I have lying around in one of the smaller tents. I'll keep the tester tent/organic tent hand fed though due to the organic nutrients.

Hey man. I did see them. I mix my medium using separate coco/perlite and add leca. I like to get about a 60/40 mix in general when using salt nutes. So seeing as I usually have a bunch of leftover leca I just use it up by stacking the first layer with the airdome. I then wash the first leca layer after harvest and use that in the next mix that I make. In all honesty I've already spent a bunch on the autopots and would rather do without buying anymore stuff. If I had to sell the autopots in future I'd rather not have to try upsell the airbases as well without having to be convincing.

And because mama didn't raise a quitter, I reset the big tent with the autopots for another round of ZxP as my redemption arc. 800g+ babay let's go! This time I have all the plants at a similar height and stage of growth. I've also already started LST on any branches trying to take the lead. I am also going to water from the top a bit longer to allow the roots to truly establish before switching to the reservoir. I have also set the pots on top of the trays instead of sitting directly in the trays for the duration of watering from the top. This gives me a way better indication of when runoff occurs which shows that the pot is watered enough and also doesn't let the bottom of the pot sit in excessive moisture. I find the pots dry a bit more consistently this way. I had a bit of a scare with some possible septoria or just early blight. I initially thought it were a deficiency but after some consulting amongst the Wizards of Bud it was singled out as a possible pathogen. I treated the plants with a systemic fungicide and so far all is alright again. Quite keen to get this tent bushy and into flower.