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Totemic

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Posts posted by Totemic

  1. Hi AJ,

     

    I use both when i want to grow out a plant, and not really have to feed it anything throughout the grow. By adding the supersoil to the bottom, and the promix to the top, allows the younger plants to establish their root systems, and grow into the supersoil to get the nutes. Planting a seed/seedling into supersoil directly will kill it.

     

    You can also only use the promix if you are going to suppliment with organic feeding.

     

    You can add perlite to the supersoil if you'd like more air.

     

    Agricultural lime is dolomite lime.

     

    :-peace

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  2. Yeah, scrogging is great when you have a lot of time to veg for what feels like forever. Scrog is also your best use of the available light.

     

    I suppose you can start LSTing any time after the first 3 weeks of age, although I wait until the 6-8th node has formed at least.

     

    Personal choice though. I just find that the less you mess around with a seedling for it's first 5-6 weeks, the healthier the plant over all. It needs this time to focus on establishing a good root system, and not put so much focus topside. Once flowering starts, the root system you have is what you got. By day 21 of flowering the plant is almost solely focused on flowering, and very little happens below.

  3. By LSTing her, I change her growing pattern. I like bushier plants spreading their energy to a few bud sites. Just this one LST turns a single cola plant in to an 8-10 cola plant, and at least 3 times more yield, but usually more.

     

    I prefer LST over topping or Fimming. Both of these slow the plant down. Something I don't have time for given the calendar for outdoors.

     

    :-peace

  4. Also, if you want a fast car, you buy a fast car. If you want a sativa high, grow out a sativa and know the extra flowering time wont disappoint you.

     

    Harvesting a hybrid or pure indica early does not give you a sativa high. It gives you crappy indica bud that was harvested too early.

     

    :-peace

  5. :-2cents

     

    The more sativa the more full amber is what I aim for. Indica is milky to amber. Clear gets one paranoid and uncomfortable.

     

    After harvest there are changes that occur with oxidation over time. Curing bud develops more potency. But clear trichomes do not turn milky during drying or curing.

     

     

  6. The sun does grow better plants. I've grown out dank indoor bud. Still doesn't come close to the outdoor I grow. Even the winter sun performs better than a 400w HPS. Only issue is really the cold temperature.  Vegging indoors and then moving outside works well. Yield is less but quality good.

     

    Point I'm making to all who doubt our sun. Its the best light out there. And it grows better weed than indoors.  :-meditate

  7. My observation with pre-flowering has always been, that from about 4 weeks from seed the plant reaches sexual maturity, and starts developing the primordial flowering region. ( Where both male and female flowers develop from, right at the node. ) Plants are usually at their 4-5th node here. By node 6-8 development will have moved far enough along for you to discern male/female.

     

    All cannabis plants I have grown have done this, even under 24hr light.

     

    Once you shorten the light cycle, you induce flowering, where already developed primordia start blooming.

  8. I don't control the light cycles with outdoor grows. It is outdoor flowering season now. All outdoor plants will start turning this month.

     

    Plants also grow a bit differently outdoors compared to indoors. They are more stretched when under the sun. (This has a lot to do with the arc of the sun through the sky. The apex is growing from east to west as it follows the sun during the day.)  This same girl indoors will have tighter nodes and only be 25-35cm tall.

     

    EDIT: Pre-flowering also has little to do with the light cycle. Once a plant is sexually mature, it will pre-flower.

  9. I think the better idea would be to keep them outdoors and take individual beetles indoors. 10-20 beetles would work well in an average indoor environment size. The beetles live for quite a while, and do return back to the celery plant while they have babies there. I have noticed that they nurse them by carrying aphids to the larvae, so taking the whole plant and moving it around from outdoor to indoor, I reckon you risk serious indoor contamination.

     

    I'm just not sure what effect your other pesticides will have on the beetles. I use no pesticides in an outdoor environment, and very little indoors, limiting it to neem oil only really.

  10. There really isn't an "easiest" method, or medium to growing. Everybody has to find what works for them.

     

    Coco/perlite (soiless) is pretty straight forward, but you are going to need a ph and ec pen for fertilizing. Same applies to hydro.

     

    Organic promix might be your best start if you don't want the added expense. Although even these need amendment of sorts. You will still need some lekker organic nutrients to feed.

     

    Full on living organics is even simpler. All you do is mix your soil, and then wait. 2 months minimum, but the longer you leave it to age the "sweeter" the soil becomes. This can also be a relatively expensive route, but there is little that beats a bud grown in a good living soil.

     

    For a quick solution, have a look what the various online stores have available. Jamiesgardenshop.co.za is a place to visit. He has an organic living soil named Orgasoilux.

     

    Hope this helps.

     

    :-peace

  11. I germinate my seeds by soaking them for 24 hours in plain tap water that has stood for 24h or so. I only soak the seeds for 24hrs. Anymore and you actually risk drowning the embryo. From there they get planted straight into their medium at a depth of at least 10mm. After 2-4 days those that have germinated will surface.

     

    :-peace

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