narnia

Hey bro, sorry to read about your issues. Do you mean 24hrs on and 7 off? If 24/0 veg cycle: *can* exacerbate existing issues and make recovery slower, but is an unlikely cause IMO. Lots of people run 24/0. In your situation it *may* have been slightly beneficial by keeping temps more constant and avoiding low winter temps, allowing the medium to dry a bit. Switching from 18/6 to 24/0 mid run could've shocked them some, but you'd expect some bounce back. You, and others in the thread, are more likely on target with over watering and/or pH issues in medium, exacerbated by overwatering or simply the medium itself. You could try a slurry test, though not really entirely definitive, can give more info on medium pH. Overwatering is a killer. Humidity flux can impede transpiration and nute uptake (high and lows are quite low and high on your hygrometer, but still pretty tolerable) but with overwatering and/or pH issues your girls wont be feeding / drinking much at all, lack of oxygen will drown ém, pH may swing, lockout and lockup, lack of root development or potential rot in an anaerobic environment, depending on the [bennie]life in your medium.

Last batch came in at pH 5.5 Batch prior pH 5.9 Some batches of late have had an increase of EC to 0.2 and/or bouncing 0.1-0.2 Verified with drops and re-calibration of meter. Whether there is some leeching into the water source, from the rain, I wouldn't know. Any ideas? I think I may just stick to tap water as I'm assuming it's a bit more of an unknown with the spring of late.

Ya, for sure. Magnesium sulphate or nitrate, as far as I'm aware. EHG Bloom *could* be explained as magnesium nitrate, Ripener obviously cannot given the major point is no N. Totemic[/member] kindly pointed out magnesium phosphate, just now which you may have missed as the thread stretched to pg 2 now. Ripener aside. With EHG Bloom / three part; it's pretty odd that a feeding schedule would contain no sulphur from beginning Week 3 of flower onward, isn't it? Logically I'd assume there'd be sulphur in the schedule, especially with hydro nutes. They list sulphur content on Grow labeling, why omit it from Bloom (or Ripener for that matter.) If not an omission from labeling, can one get by with no sulphur for that long?

Welcome theyettie[/member]

Lol ya, fair enough, chalk. What do you make of there being no source of sulphur from end week 2 with the EHG feeding schedule? GH Flora Bloom (which I thought EHG was loosely based off) contains sulphur and therefore fed all through flower, whether 3-part or Lucas. ....would it be stupid to wonder whether the S is left off the labeling of both the Ripener and Bloom?

Magnesium carbonate probs?

(relative to bloom) No N - the major benefit, Small Mg boost, Slightly less K, - therefore slightly higher P ratio Can you confirm the labeling on the Ripener corresponds to what's listed on Hortishop (as posted in this thead) Neither Bloom nor Ripener contain any S, based on labeling, so none in feeding schedule from beginning week 3 onward.

I would've thought so too, but not according to Horitshop site, neither any S in the Bloom formula, only the Grow. Anyone have a bottle of Ripener on hand?

Jimmy-z[/member] Ya, agreed. They should plug all their stock in there. You should be able to just stick the ripener weights into the spreadsheet and mess with any needed formulas. I've been meaning to do so for the silica am using. Bit of a potassium bump there. (EHG Ripener)Contains: Phosphorus P 22,6g/kg Potassium K 38.5g/kg Magnesium Mg 14,9g/kg

Not sure if this has been around for a while, but quite a useful spreadsheet: https://hydroponic.co.za/detailed-dosage-breakdown-element-ppm-npk-ratio-hortimix-andor-ehg/

Heisenberg[/member] Perhaps overwatered, especially if they're in larger containers as you said, if not pH issues with medium/water as GLO mentioned. Have your girls outside gotten less water or more chance to dry out?

Ya, I'll definitely trust in your expertise, it is much appreciated Totemic[/member] . Was hoping to get some more mileage out of regular brews. As it is I question the life span of the bottled microbes I am using, in a DWC environment, though I'm fairly confident root health has been improved and potential slime combated. There's just no data, anecdotal or otherwise, on the 2 bottled products available in SA; so it's pour and pray. The teas are usually: EWC ZHO - (Botanicare ZHO is a proprietary blend of mycorrhizae and trichoderma fungi ) Mycogrow Molasses Why two sources of mycos, not sure.

Thanks again Totemic[/member] , appreciated Hmmm, although I bit of a backward-ass method; would one be able to cultivate the mycos in some sort of medium, for a few weeks, and add some of the hopefully ripe medium to a tea?

Thanks for your help Totemic[/member] , Have been inoculating with Mycoroot at transplant, in coco. Many recipes for DWC teas - such as Heisenberg's - have soluble mycos as an ingredient, usually "Mycogrow Soluble" http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/product/mycogrow-soluble-1-oz.html All I can seem to find is Mycoroot, and have some on hand in any case, which obviously doesn't appear too soluble. Do you think it'll be ineffective?

Dear Organics Gurus, Many tea recipes around, but quite difficult attempting to find certain suitable ingredients in SA, with a noob's lack of knowledge. Primarily looking to create / sustain bennies, rather than a source of nutrition. Beginning with recipe similar to Heisenberg's Tea for DWC, in DWC, and perhaps will expand and brew different teas for coco and possibly more balls out soil tea for outdoor season, depending on how I get on. More simple for now. Just one Noob question simply related to ingredients: Will a product like mycoroot be effective for brewing tea, i.e. will the mycorrhizal activate/dissolve/thrive (terminology?) or will I need a different source?

@Jland eish, forgot about Eutech x640 scale. If everyone would just use the same scale the world would be a happier place. x500 or whichever. Re: pens, they function exactly the same way. So perhaps you're getting more stable readings on PPM/TDS vs EC due to higher resolution, or just different brand/type pens, rather than EC vs PPM. All TDS/PPM meters get an EC reading and convert as per their scale for conversion. PS: your girls are fattening up nicely

EC vs PPM is such a shit show. Sadly one just cannot assume x500 or x700 scale, with much confidence, obviously depending on the source. Frustrating. In general, yes, one can go on x500 conversion scale as this is widely used in USA, and therefore likely what we'll mostly see online, BUT x700 is prevalent too, so consider the source of the info. and try verify, is how I approach. A ~30% swing is pretty intense and not to be trifled with IMO. All you can verify 100% is what scale your meter/pen uses (if not an EC meter), that's the only concrete conversion without verification. The acid rain issue could also occur by sheer volume of air pumped into res. but agreed shouldn't be an issue unless there is a real high volume of air pumped into res, nightime plants will emit CO2 which will increase density. Re: Note 2 Be wary increasing EC/PPM too high too soon. It's well tempting. Sometimes lower levels are better. Bigger plants will need more food than what your seedlings have been getting, but it's more beneficial to stay on the lower end as girls *should* drink more and thereby grow faster. i.e. EC of 1.4 is high af for seedlings and small plants. As you've seen in your grow when res. has been dialed in, good growth with weaker solution. I'm not sure on a comparative point for osmosis point relative to plant size, but obviously seedling strength isn't going to cut it deeper into veg. As always keep an eye out for overfert signs as/if you increase solution strength, and consider all factors - such as environmental issues decreasing transpiration rates, etc. etc. - when referencing Woody's table, or anything really. You're welcome, glad to give some more resources. P.I.F.

This table from Woody is a good go to reference (http://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-forum/showthread.php?86654-EC-ph-amp-water-levels-What-they-tell-you-and-how-to-react). [th]Water level[/th] [th]EC[/th] [th]PH[/th] [th]Solution[/th] Static Static Static Plant not feeding/drinking, change EC, check meters. Usually, lowering the EC a little should get the plant feeding again Static Static Rising Ph buffers probably raising ph. This is usual. Having a static water level is not though, so again, a slight reduction in EC or a res change should resolve this. Static Static Falling Usual cause of this is when media has been rinsed at a lower ph than you require. The other possibility is that too much CO2 has been pumped into the water. See Note 1. Change your res and look at the volume of air pumped plus look at your air source. Static Rising Static Plant is leeching nutrition, raise EC. Note 2 Static Rising Rising Plant leeching nutrition, Raise EC. An unusual state. The rising ph is probably caused by what nutrient leeching back. If these are alkaline, it will lead to the rise in ph. Could also be ph buffers. Static Rising Falling As above but be aware of the acid rain effect mentioned in note 1. Res change, plus increase in EC. Static Falling Static Plant eating but not drinking. Not ideal. Lower EC or res change Static Falling Rising As above but rising ph is a better sign. Lower EC slightly or res change. Static Falling Falling Falling ph along with falling EC but no drop in water level suggests a res change. Could also be an acid rain effect as per note 1. Depending on other symptoms, lowering EC after res change. Falling Static Static Perfect conditions. EC and ph are at the correct level. Falling Static Rising Normal state most people encounter. Nothing to worry about, carry on doing what you are doing unless other plant symptoms. Falling Static Falling Res change plus a change of EC. Lower EC if over 1.4, raise EC if lower than 1.0 Falling Rising Static Plant is drinking more than eating, lower EC. Falling Rising Rising Plant is drinking more than eating, lower EC Falling Rising Falling Plant is drinking more than eating, lower EC. Also, res change due to possible acid rain problem. Falling Falling Static Hungry plant, raise EC. Very good situation to be in. Nute buffers are working and plant is taking a balance of nutrients. Falling Falling Rising Almost as above, usually considered almost perfect, raise EC slightly. Falling Falling Falling Res change. Potential acid rain issue but plant is still eating & drinking. Raise EC on new res Note 1. When pumping air into a nutrient solution in order to add Dissolved Oxygen, not only oxygen is present, CO2 is also pumped in. If you live near a busy road, this may be higher than normal, so you may get a dropping ph quite often. I have noticed most of the growers who suffer from a falling ph in DWC tend to live in large cities. This may not be a link but it could be. When CO2 is added to water, it makes it more acidic. This is the precise process which causes acid rain, pollution from power stations etc pouring CO2 into the air, this mixes with the water vapour in clouds causing acid rain. Note 2. Most people assume that with a rising EC, it is the plants way of saying, I dont want more food, here, have some back. What is actually happening is this. Plants roots take in water/nutrients through a process called Osmosis. Effectively, if you think in terms of the roots having their own internal EC. The osmosis process will always try to balance out the EC's, taking from the higher side of the barrier and giving to the lower part. So if the EC of the nutrient solution is higher than the "internal EC", then food & water will flow from the solution to the roots, this is the normal process. If however, the EC of the solution is higher than the "internal EC", then the balancing will work the other way and nutrition will be leeched from the roots to the solution. A res change or increase in EC should resolve depending on the other factors such as ph and water levels. Note 3. Nutrients flow around a well hydrated plant much more effectively and faster than one which isnt as well hydrated. How can growers use this? By feeding at lower levels, the plant needs to take on more water in order to get the nutrition it requires. So by feeding at moderate levels, this forces the plant to drink more. By drinking more, it is better hydrated, because it is better hydrated, it needs more food, making it eat more. So feed at moderate levels rather than overly aggressive levels. The method of pushing the EC until you see signs of nute burn is damaging to the plants and although many growers use this method, I am not a fan though your plants are not mine!

Ayy, shite that sucks after thinking you had it licked. Check over the items in my last post, if you haven't already. Excluding items from the problem solving really helps, e.g. root health, which you seem to have in good stead. If roots are brackish it's pointless looking at other items. It's frustrating, I know, but somewhat like turning your PC off and on again before spend hours debugging the registry, if that analogy makes sense. #1 from that post was EC/TDS/PPM values- you really do need to be checking these frequently and collating with water levels (how much was drunk by girls) and pH, it's difficult af trying to get around that. For example: if water level is dropping, pH is falling, and EC is rising; this generally means feed less- as girls are drinking, but not feeding, therefore nute solution is less dilute, higher EC, which accounts for the drop in pH as most nutes are going to drop your pH, bar things like calcium, easy to see when you mix your nutes before checking and pH-ing. If water level stays the same, EC stays the same, pH falls - something else is up. How much air are you pumping into the res? Where are your air pumps? Can look into acid rain effect. Pumps push air, which contains other gases, not just O2 but CO2 as well, which in HIGH quantities can acidify your solution.

Thanks @zairek , I'll look into options with lining. Those coolers with built-in taps would be pretty sweet, but they must leach BPAs or nasties like that.

Any idea what type/brand of cooler box wouldn't leach plasticy shite into res?

Sweeeeet. Please tell me those trucks are going to be attached to drip trays so you can wheel your plants around? Any reflectors (DIY or otherwise) for the CFLs? -Clean the pH pen with a cleaning solution (not sure what's in the pH probe cleaning solutions but sure could search and find out) -Soak it in a calibration solution for a few hours -Calibrate -Test and keep testing, best obviously if you have a stable test source, such as calibration solution .

Dehuey and/or aircon, seal(ish) and condition the room where the cab. is in? Probs a bit of overkill, equipment-wise, for the cab. size though. Have you logged some data with lights on? No man, no delays 'til Jan. Get some girls in thar! You can doooo iiiit